Adventuring Down Under

joulukuuta 2023 - toukokuuta 2024
Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Lue lisää

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  • Sydney: ANZAC Memorial

    18. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    While we were relaxing at home yesterday — resting up for our Bridge Climb — we worked on a general list of things we want to see/do before we leave Sydney on the 21st.

    Today, we began to chip away at that list.

    It was a busy day of sightseeing! Made possible by comfy temps on a day that started out overcast but turned sunny by mid-afternoon. To save some steps, we started out by taking the T3 train from Circular Quay to the Museum Station, exiting at the south end of Hyde Park. Perfect … exactly where we wanted to be for the short walk to our first stop … the Art Deco style ANZAC Memorial.

    (For those unfamiliar with the term, it’s an acronym that stands for Australia and New Zealand Army Corps. By the way, I really condensed this footprint as best I could … you’ll just have to forgive the length as this site has special meaning for us. I promise, the remainder of today’s footprints won’t be nearly as wordy.)

    The ANZACs and the Turks were on opposite sides during WWI. In fact, they faced each other in some of the worst battles of the war … the Gallipoli Campaign … Gelibolu, in Turkish. Yet, they forged a special relationship that endures to this day. Whenever the opportunity presents itself during our travels, Mui and I search out ANZAC memorials … and participate in remembrance ceremonies … most recently aboard Insignia during our world cruise … and hopefully here in Australia before we leave.

    With that as a background … let’s move on to today’s memorial visit.

    The website describes the memorial as “A physical expression of the spirit and legend of the ANZAC — Honouring Service, and the Courage, Endurance, and Sacrifice by all servicemen, servicewomen and their families.” A quote, in part, by Bruce Dellit, designer of the memorial, describes war as leaving “… burning embers of destruction — is no thing of glamour and no cause for glorification.” Honoring sacrifices made by those who served without glorifying war is a delicate balance … well achieved at the memorial.

    Though we tend to associate the term ANZAC with the Gallipoli Campaign of WWI as that is when it was first used, the memorial is for all Australians, all armed and auxiliary services, and all campaigns in which they were involved. This is apparent in the imagery, symbolism, and inscriptions around the memorial.

    We found everything about the memorial exceptionally moving …

    … from the Hall of Service where the names of the places from which the WWI enlistees hailed are etched into black marble with embedded containers of soil from those places … and the ring of soil in the floor representing 100 battlefields and sites of military significance for service personnel from NSW;

    … to the Hall of Silence … at the center of which stands George Rayner Hoff’s “Sacrifice” … based on the story of Spartan warriors from Greece being sent off to war with the words “to come home with their shield or on it”;

    … to the Hall of Memory … with its balustraded-opening decorated like a wreath forming the top of the Well of Contemplation looking down on the Hall of Silence … the Dome of Stars with some 120,000 gold stars representing the men and women who served overseas during the Great War … the Flame Room with what we would refer to as the eternal flame, flanked by the flags of Australia, New Zealand, and NSW … the Niches of Remembrance representing the principal theaters of war in which the Australians served during the Great War … Gallipoli, the Western Front, Egypt and the Sinai-Palestine, and the principal sea battles of the Royal Australian Navy;

    … to the plaque with the words of Atatürk’s famous “Letter to the Mothers” … addressed to the mothers of the ANZAC soldiers who fell during the Gallipoli Campaign and who are buried in Gelibolu;

    … to the special memorial to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people who served to defend the country … consisting of giant bullets … some upright, some on their sides.

    I’ll end this footprint with the words at the bottom of the plaque at Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Memorial … meaningful words that also explain the positioning of the “bullets” … and which are appropriate to the ANZAC Memorial in general …

    “We remember those fallen … We honor those standing.”
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  • Sydney: Australian Museum

    18. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    From the ANZAC Memorial, we walked about mid-way down Hyde Park and then took a right to go to the Australian Museum across the street.

    The museum is billed as a place to experience “science, culture, and nature in the heart of Sydney.” Founded in 1827, it is Australia’s first museum. Today there are some 21 million cultural and scientific objects that are rotated through the exhibits.

    The amazing thing is that except for special exhibitions, such as the current “Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs,” there is no admission charged. Having spent three weeks in Egypt in 2018, we opted to skip the paid exhibit and visited the permanent ones only.

    With so much to see, we decided to focus on a few key exhibits … the 200 Treasures in the beautiful Westpac Long Gallery taking up most of our time. Of course, we didn’t skip the others … we just wandered through them at a faster speed.

    The 200 Treasures exhibit actually consists of 100 artifacts deemed most-valued plus the stories of 100 of Australia’s most-influential people. I must admit that I had a hard time stopping myself from photographing all of the treasured items, but I did my best as I would have otherwise still been in the gallery at closing time.

    Between visiting the galleries, we ended up on the top floor where we found one of the several food places in the museum — Bistro Gadi. It is apparently a pop-up venue. The menu had an Egyptian flare … a nod to the Ramses exhibit, I imagine. The concept was simple … one main + two sides; one main + 3 sides; 3-sides, etc … priced accordingly. With beautiful views of Hyde Park, St Mary’s Cathedral, and Woolloomooloo Bay as a bonus, it was a good place to take a break.
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  • Sydney: St Mary’s Cathedral

    18. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    From the Australian Museum we crossed the street to St Mary’s Cathedral.

    Considered the spiritual heart of Catholic Sydney, the foundation stone for the church was set in 1821 by Governor Macquarie. That first cathedral was destroyed by a fire in 1865. The one that stands today was built in two phases between 1866 and 1928, but it wasn’t until the year 2000 that the original design was fully completed. In the English Gothic revival style, it is Australia’s largest cathedral.

    We entered through the front door, I took a photo from the rear of the aisle, and just then the priest arrived to say Mass. Ooops, no more photos. Leaving would have disrupted the service, so we sat down to wait it out.

    I snuck out at one point to go down to the crypt — which the deacon said was OK to visit during Mass. There were beautiful tile details to keep me occupied for part of the service while Mui used the time to rest in a pew at the back of the church.

    Once the service was over and the congregants had left, I wandered around, studying the beautiful stained glass windows and taking photographs. Then, we were off to continue our sightseeing.
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  • Sydney: Hyde Park Barracks Museum

    18. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    As we were very near the Hyde Park Barracks Museum, from the Archibald Fountain in the park we crossed the street to check it out.

    A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the barracks are described as an “extraordinary record of the living legacy of colonial Australia.” The compound, built to house convicts, was constructed between 1817-1819 … designed by convict architect Francis Greenway. Later it served as a depot and asylum for immigrant women. Then it transitioned into law courts and government offices. Today it is a very-well done museum to which admission is free.

    On arrival, we were given headphones and receivers that are essential for the immersive experience.

    The visit then started on the top floor of the building. As you move from one room to another — or from one display to another — the receiver senses your location and the appropriate commentary automatically starts up. The descriptions are fairly short … on purpose, I would think, because if you move away to another spot, the receiver senses the change and the story changes with the move.

    Dioramas and artifacts in display cases aid in bringing alive the experiences of the men and women who lived in the barracks back in the day.

    We both found this to be a fascinating museum.
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  • Sydney: St James’ Church

    18. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Before wrapping up our day with errands, we stopped in for a quick look-see at St James’ Church.

    Constructed between 1819-1824, it is Sydney’s oldest church. It was designed by the same convict architect — Francis Greenway — who designed the Hyde Park Barracks.

    This Anglican church wasn’t supposed to be a church at all. Rather, it was supposed to be a courthouse for Governor Macquarie. But a commissioner who was sent down from London overruled the governor and deemed the building to be constructed as a church.

    Regardless of what it ended up being, it is one of the surviving group of Macquarie Period buildings in the country. Though changes have been made since it’s completion in 1824, the building’s exterior has remained in the style of a Georgian town church.

    While the undercroft was used for many different purposes over the years — to bed down Allied servicemen during WWII being one of them — the feature that draws visitors down into that part of the church is the Children’s Chapel that was opened in 1929 for younger children. The walls and ceilings of the chapel are decorated with colorful murals.

    We went down to see the murals, but had to be satisfied with studying them through the glass door as the room was locked.
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  • Sydney: Pylon Museum & Lookout

    19. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    “Our Bridge is made from a whopping 550,000 pieces of steel!”

    “6 million or 3200 tons of rivets hold our Bridge together!”

    “Did we mention it’s a pretty-strong Bridge? 96 trains were shunted onto the Bridge for load-testing … .”

    Those are just some of the tidbits we learned from today’s first outing.

    Our sixth day in Sydney dawned overcast … the skies hazy with wildfire smoke. I was hoping that it would clear before we set off for the Bridge Climb Pylon Museum & Lookout. No such luck. Oh well … with rain in the forecast for the next two days, we decided to proceed with our plan anyway.

    We started out by walking under the Sydney Harbour Bridge to check out — during daylight— the catwalks we had scrambled on and around to get to the ladders that had led us above the road deck for our bridge climb. As luck would have it, there were some climbers to add visual interest. (Just pretend they are us when you look at the photos 🤭)

    Finding the elevator from the street level up to the bridge level, next we took a short stroll to the southeast pylon where the museum and lookout are located. And then came the steps … over 200 in all … with some 130 of them from the museum level up to the lookout, which sits at 290+ feet above sea level.

    The focus of the small museum is the planning and construction of the bridge. There are a couple of artifacts in display cases, however, the exhibits are mostly short snippets of info to read … accompanied by historic photos. A 7-minute video, shown on a loop, highlights the key information … a quick overview, if you will.

    The Lookout is billed as the original Sydney city observation terrace. It’s worth the climb … though it would have been even better if we’d had blue skies as a backdrop for the scenery. Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the Sydney Harbour Bridge from a different perspective, searching out and finding the places we had climbed and walked on our bridge climb just two nights ago.
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  • Sydney: Opera House Tour (Thumbs Down)

    19. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    Our preferred backstage tour for the Sydney Opera House, a UNESCO World Heritage Site — recognized as “a masterpiece of human creativity” — had been sold out for quite sometime. Same with tickets for Swan Lake, the only performance we were interested in seeing. So, after checking one more time for cancelations earlier this week, we gave in and booked the 1-hour general tour.

    After finishing up at the Pylon Museum and Lookout , we strolled towards the Opera House. We still had time before our 2:45p tour, so we checked out some restaurants to get a bite for lunch. We settled on the East Chinese Restaurant, opting to sit inside as not only was it smoky outside, it was also humid … which made it quite uncomfortable on an already hot day.

    Arriving at the tour meeting point, we “cloaked” Mui’s daypack as it was deemed bigger than a piece of A3 paper. We then met up with the tour guide, who checked our tickets and issued headsets. All good so far.

    Unfortunately, I can’t say that the tour was was good. We didn’t see much that was truly interesting … and the commentary didn’t give us any insight that we couldn’t have gleaned for ourselves from the internet. Certainly, the tour wasn’t worth the money. It falls into the “loss” category for today.

    We started out with a short multimedia presentation that didn’t provide any information … just a sped up collection of photos and imagery set to loud music. Then we went into a room that was initially meant to be storage for the Main Stage above it … but was converted into a small stage for plays. Nothing really interesting there.

    Our route then took us up a bunch of stairs to the red-carpeted foyer for the Joan Sutherland Theater … used for opera and ballet performances. We did go into the theater itself … after watching a brief video about the building’s history in the lobby. No photos inside the theater, however … no idea why.

    Next, we went out to the open space between the two sides of the Opera House … this was sort of interesting as we got a different perspective of the “sails.” And then it was over. No, we did not get to go into the Main Stage … there was a matinee performance. True, the Opera House is an operating facility and there is always something going on somewhere. Disappointing nonetheless.

    We drowned our disappointment with a chocolate orange fondant cake at Guylian, a café associated with the famous Belgian chocolatier.
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  • Sydney: Rainy Day Art Wrap-Up

    20. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    It rained all day. In other words, a perfect day to spend indoors at the Art Gallery of NSW.

    The museum is billed as one of the country’s flagship art museums. When it was first established in 1871 it had neither a collection nor a building. Those came later. Over the following 150 years, the museum not only changed names, but locations as well. One thing that didn’t change was the role it continues to play in the cultural life of NSW as well as Australia.

    As a public museum, there is no admission charged … except for special exhibits, like the current one … featuring Kandinsky’s work. We opted to skip it as there was more than enough to see in the free galleries.

    In fact, a little after noon, we had to take a break for lunch before continuing with the remaining galleries. The first restaurant we tried at the museum wasn’t even seating anyone without reservations. That’s how popular it is. So, we went to the Gallery Café instead. The place was packed, but we were seated after a 5-minute wait. A hearty soup seemed like the perfect choice on a rainy day … and it was. Mui enjoyed his green papaya salad, a specialty of the chef.

    Then back to exploring the museum. Just when we’d think, “OK, we’ve visited all the galleries,” rounding a corner, or coming up to what looked like a wall from a distance, would lead us to another room. Amazing place.

    We finally left the museum around 3:15p. It was still raining … steady, light, wet. After running some errands, we headed home to leftovers for dinner … from yesterday’s lunch at the East Chinese Restaurant. Then, the dreaded packing chore … ugh!

    The Sydney bag has been repacked … the carry on bags await toiletries and other last minute items before they can be zipped up.

    We’re ready for the next phase of our Australia adventure.

    Tomorrow we embark Regatta.
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  • Regatta Heading to White Bay

    21. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Regatta is small enough to go under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

    That means she had to sail by our apartment in The Rocks to get to the White Bay Cruise Terminal where we will embark her for our Australian Panorama Circumnavigation later this morning.Lue lisää

  • Embarked Regatta @ WBCT

    21. joulukuuta 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    20-minute ride to WBCT [White Bay Cruise Terminal] … drop off checked bags for delivery to the cabin … short wait for the check-in stalls to open.

    By 11:15a, we were onboard Regatta. A quick stop in the Grand Dining Room [GDR] to check-in at our muster station … no formal mustering anymore; everything is done by video and a scan of ship’s cards to confirm you know where your muster station is located.

    Regatta is a twin of Insignia, on which we spent over 200 years this year. Thus, familiar with the layout and where everything is, we didn’t need to wander around to get our bearings. Just a few stops to photograph the holiday cheer around the ship and then up to the Terrace Café for lunch. With very few people onboard at that time, the venue was unusually quiet. That would be changing by the time we left to while away time at the Horizons Lounge on Deck 10 forward.

    On this cruise, we are in an oceanview cabin. What that means is that our stateroom would not be ready until 3:00p or thereabouts. No worries. I used the time to upload a couple of footprints. Mui read for a bit. We also set up our ship wi-fi accounts … the plural is not a typo … every stateroom gets two logins now … regardless of whether booked under the Simply More promotion.

    When the announcement came that all stateroom categories were now ready, we headed to 4052 to get ourselves settled in for the next month … plus a few days. Our luggage had been delivered, so unpacking and storing our belongings didn’t have to wait until later in the afternoon.

    Now to go up to Deck 10 and enjoy the sail away from Sydney.

    The good news … the on again, off again drizzle is finally history.
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