• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
sep. – des. 2021

Türkiye 2021

Our trip to Turkey this year is set for 4 months ... give or take a few days so that we can make up for family time lost in 2019-2020 due to COVID-19. Les mer
  • Our projected flight path from FlightAware — IAH ... Houston, TX.
    6,600+ miles to fly over 11 hours and 26 minutes — IAH ... Houston, TX.

    Boarded TK34

    6. september 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    We’re aboard the Dreamliner that will take us from IAH to IST … an 11 hour flight.

    Normally, I’d post a photo of our aircraft … taken from the terminal before boarding. But Gate D11 is at the end of the concourse, and there was no good angle from which to get a snapshot of anything except the tail. Instead, here’s a map of our flight path to Turkey … as projected by FlightAware.

    See you on the other side of this flight.
    Les mer

  • Dinner service aboard TK34.

    Part I of TK34

    7. september 2021, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    I’m writing this footprint 4 hours into the 11-hour and 26-minute flight from IAH to IST. The date has already switched from the 6th to the 7th.

    Though there was a bit of confusion around the boarding process — local contractors running the THY counters — and a 40-minute or so delay in taking off, the flight has been uneventful. We’re comfortably settled into our seats … the dimmable portholes (in lieu of pull-down shades) at their lowest setting and locked by the crew to encourage passengers to snooze.

    So, has the Dreamliner — Boeing 787-9 — lived up to my expectations? Yes, but with some quirks. The 1-2-1 configuration in BizClass is nice as it means every pax has an aisle seat. Mui and I opted for a single seat each on the starboard side of the aircraft, so he’s in the row behind me. No photos of the cabin, however, as the curved shell of the seats makes it difficult to get a good angle.

    I love the cozy privacy of my cubby, and there is plenty of room in the footwell and storage bin. But someone who is particularly tall (or big) might find the space a tad confining. The downside is that the curved shell of the seat back blocks most of the porthole next to me. (I’m in an even numbered row, which offers the most privacy because the console is on the aisle side.). It’s not a big deal for a nighttime flight. I could use a bit more lumbar support, but the pillow provided by the flight attendant when she set up the bedding does the trick.

    The in flight entertainment system has lots of movies, TV shows, live news, etc. But nothing really grabbed my attention, so I am listening to music instead. We brought our own Bose noise-canceling headsets, but the Denon brand headsets provided by THY for the duration of the flight would have done the trick just as easily.

    THY is known for its highly rated in flight service. Unfortunately, the pandemic has done a number on that, so it’s nothing like the standards to which we have become accustomed. Gone are the periodic warm washcloths to refresh ourselves; gone are the pre-departure refreshments; gone are the pre-dinner cocktails and warm nuts; gone is the trolley with a wide selection of mezes (Turkish appetizers/tapas); gone is the course-by-course meal service; gone is the trolley with a wide selection of desserts.

    Instead, the salad, two appetizers, and dessert were all served on a tray … with the salad plate being replaced by the foil-covered main course. At least the food is still very tasty. The flight attendants did everything possible to minimize contact with passengers, which meant that there was no seconds on drinks or anything else. I’m sure they would have accommodated us had we rang the attendant bell, but we too were trying to minimize contact, so we did not bother doing so.

    By the way, masks are required for the duration of the flight … and highly encouraged between bites/sips during the meal service. Passengers in this cabin at least seem to be obeying that rule. We were provided with a hygiene kit when we boarded … a disinfectant wipe for the touch-surfaces around us (though the aircraft was disinfected when it arrived from Turkey); three masks … with the suggestion to replace masks every four hours. We have our own supplies as well.

    Travel during a pandemic is nothing like travel used to be. Will things go back to the way they were? Not likely if we cannot get the COVID-19 numbers under control around the world.

    ——————————-

    For those interested in such things …

    Spinach salad with grilled chicken breast with olive oil & balsamic vinegar; beetroot hummus; moutabel (spicier version of baba ghannoush); gnocchi with roasted pepper sauce, zucchini, mushroom, broccoli, cherry tomatoes. Mui ordered the fillet of beef, serviced with grilled eggplant, zucchini, fennel, tomato, and chateau potatoes. Cheesecake for dessert.
    Les mer

  • Aerial views along the Black Sea Coast of Turkey — Aboard TK34.
    Aerial view as we approach IST — Aboard TK34.Aerial view as we approach IST — Aboard TK34.Traffic is not bad considering it is almost rush hour — ABoard TK34.

    Part II of TK34

    7. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Just a few quick words about the rest of the flight from IAH to IST before I have to pack-up my devices.

    I’ve never been able to get a good night’s rest on airplanes. But having lie flat seats in BizClass has changed that … a bit. I think it was about 2:00a when I finished writing the previous footprint. I turned off the light and put myself in a horizontal position to at least rest my eyes. When I woke up, it was around 6:00a. So, I must have snoozed for four hours or so … enough to keep me going until we get to İzmir, our final destination.

    The pre-debarkation meal service was delivered about ½-hour after I woke up. As with the dinner service, it was all served on one tray, with the egg course — omelette or scrambled eggs — replacing the fruit plate. I skipped the eggs, but Mui said the omelette was … well, an omelette … tasty but nothing special.

    The new airport in İstanbul is much further north than the old one. No iconic skyline views of the city’s historic landmarks. Instead of flying over the Sea of Marmara, the plane is flying over the Black Sea. So, we have new-to-us views to enjoy as the aircraft begins its descent into IST. Time to see if I can get a few photos.

    More when we land.
    Les mer

  • Landed @ IST — İstanbul, Turkey.

    On the Ground @ IST

    7. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    We’re about 15 minutes late arriving in İstanbul. No worries. Our next flight is not until 7:00p.

    TK34 just passed the IST control tower, the design of which was inspired by the tulip flower … which has considerable significance in Turkey’s art and culture. It will take us another 15 minutes or so to get to the terminal … time enough to check messages now that our T-Mobile phones are active again,.Les mer

  • All set for departure once boarding is completed — Aboard TK2336 @ IST.

    Aboard TK2336

    7. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    I wouldn’t say that we were rushed getting to our ADB departure gate, but we didn’t have time to dally at IST either. I’ll catch up while we wait for boarding to be completed.

    This airport is huge and there is a lot of walking involved to get from one place to another. The walk to the domestic transfers immigration checkpoint took about 20 minutes from the gate where TK34 arrived. There was no one else in line there, so getting through the formalities was easy peasy.

    Next, we went through the security checkpoint between immigration and the domestic gates … that took another 5-10 minutes or so, with the most time given over to taking out electronics, etc. and putting them away after we got through the formalities here.

    Finally, we walked another 10 minutes or so to our departure gate. As boarding was being called by the time we made it to the gate, we didn’t even take the time to search out the domestic business lounge for the BizClass shuttle to the aircraft, which was parked on the tarmac.

    No complaints. I’d rather stay on the move than sit around killing time … especially during a pandemic.

    We were the first to board the aircraft … a 777-300 that is normally used for long haul flights. We would have flown on a similar craft had our flight equipment from the US to Turkey not been changed to a Dreamliner. Bright, airy, and spacious.

    As was the case on TK34, we were given a hygiene kit that included a disinfectant wipe for the touch-points around our seats and a mask … just one for the 45-minute flight ahead of us.

    The rest of the BizClass passengers are now taking their seats. Time to put my electronics away. More later.
    Les mer

  • Welcome to Adnan Menderes Intl Airport — İzmir, Turkey.

    Long Travel Day Ends in İzmir

    7. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    The flight from IST was uneventful and by 8:20p we were taxiing to the terminal at ADB. Once off the aircraft we walked from the domestic terminal to the international terminal baggage carousels to collect our bags and then hopped in a cab to Alsancak.

    When we visit my family in İzmir, we stay at Işıl’s apartment, which sits empty unless she or another family member is in the city for business or pleasure. It’s just a couple of blocks from the apartment building where my mom and sister live, so it makes a convenient base for us.

    Once we dropped off our bags, we walked over to mom’s place for a quick reunion with everyone … including my brother, who is also here from the US to visit family.

    Thus, our long travel day has come to an end. A good night’s rest and then back to mom’s tomorrow for breakfast with the family.
    Les mer

  • Welcome to the waterfront promenade known as Kordon — İzmir, Turkey.
    Cold beverages on a warm fall morning — İzmir, Turkey.Normally a clear beverage, this gazoz is lavender & peach flavored — İzmir, Turkey.

    A Stroll on Kordon

    9. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Yesterday was a day of settling into the apartment in preparation for our 4-month long family visit. After breakfast at mom’s, we returned to our apartment to unpack and get everything put away.

    Today, we had breakfast at our place and then went to mom’s to pick her up and go for a stroll. Aylin and Deniz joined us for the outing. Eventually, we ended up sitting at a café where we enjoyed cold beverages … in this case a peach/lavender flavored fizzy drink known as “gazoz.”

    Our September arrival has coincided with more comfortable weather … no more three-digit temps to contend with, so we hope to get out for a walk every day.
    Les mer

  • Turkish Stars performing the sunburst stunt — İzmir, Turkey.
    Solo Türk performing barrel rolls w/chaff — İzmir, Turkey.

    İzmir’s Liberation Festivities

    9. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Following World War I, the Greek Army invaded İzmir in May 1919. Three plus years later, on 9 September 1922, the Turkish Army liberated the city from the enemy forces. That date is celebrated as Izmir’s birthday … #99 this year.

    A few years ago, we went to the waterfront along Kordon to watch the festivities. This year, we decided to stay home … away from the crowds … COVID-19 times after all. We didn’t get to see all of the events, but enjoyed the demonstrations by the Turkish Air Force Aerial Demonstration Team — the Turkish Stars — and Solo Türk, the pilot who performs on his own.
    Les mer

  • Topiary honoring Zeynep Teyze's contributions to horticulture — Alsancak ... İzmir, Turkey.

    Catching Up

    14. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    It’s already been a week since our arrival in Turkey. As is typical of our trips to Turkey, we are here to visit family, so we haven’t done much that is worthy of a footprint. That should change later this week when we leave on the first of several sightseeing getaways we have planned. In fact, we just added to our October sightseeing plans today, so I definitely should have more to write about.

    Turkey has a centralized health portal called e-Nabız. Technically, we don’t have much use for it. However, we wanted to get our COVID-19 shots recorded in the system as that will link the shots to our HES codes, which we need to present for domestic travel. We created our accounts before we left the US, but were unable to load our shot records. After doing some research yesterday, Mui figured out how to get that done through the province’s health bureau. He and Deniz, my brother, turned in the necessary documents today. Now, we just have to monitor the app and when the shot-info is uploaded, we can download our official shot cards. The bonus here is that the card will include an EU-approved QR code as well.

    While they were running errands, Aylin, mom, and I went for a walk in Kültür Park — Izmir’s answer to New York’s Central Park, if you will. We were hoping to have tea and pastries at a café in the park, but the place has changed ownership and didn’t have much to offer. So we ended up going to a new patisserie near the house instead. At least I finally got a photo of “Zeynep Teyze” in bloom … a topiary honoring a woman who emigrated from Greece to Bayındır, Turkey in 1940. In her time, she was apparently at the forefront of teaching the locals in her region about growing different varieties of flowers.
    Les mer

  • Welcome to Murano's Kitchen in Alsancak — İzmir, Turkey.
    Mural's on the wall add to the Italian ambiance — Murano's in Alsancak ... İzmir, Turkey.Delicious food ... even more delicious desserts — Murano's in Alsancak ... İzmir, Turkey.

    Murano’s Kitchen

    16. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Today is Aylin and Murat’s 33rd wedding anniversary. Hard to believe so much time has passed since my younger sister got married, but there you have it. Time flies whether we want it to or not. They’ve gone off to Karaburun for the weekend, so we’ll celebrate together belatedly in October.

    In the meantime, the four of us — mom, Deniz, Mui, and I — will be heading to Bodrum tomorrow. Our bags are packed and ready to go.

    Not wanting to have left overs sitting in the fridge, mom shut down the kitchen yesterday. So, we went out to dinner. The plan was to go to Venedik Pizzeria for some Italian food. Alas, the place was booked solid with a long line of patrons waiting to be seated.

    Plan B took us to Murano’s Kitchen, another Italian restaurant just up the street. Tasty food … no complaints.
    Les mer

  • Our bus has arrived ... time to get on the road — İzmir Bus Depot in Bornova.
    All settled for the three-hour+ drive to Boğaziçi in Turkey's Muğla Province.

    Off to Bodrum

    17. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Actually, we’re off to the seaside village of Boğaziçi, about 20 miles outside the better-known seaside town of Bodrum. We’re going there to spend time with Mui’s sister, Işıl, before she closes out the beach season. While we’re at it, we’ll do a few days of sightseeing. Mom and Deniz have joined us for this latter reason.

    To get where we are going, we are on a bus operated by Kâmil Koç. We’re one hour into the three-hour+ drive. All’s going well. There’s maybe 10 people on the entire bus … which can accommodate four times as many passengers. Not complaining. A low pax count is a good thing during a pandemic. Everyone is masked up … also a good thing.

    The bus is pristine; the service is good. We’ve already been offered — twice — the traditional lemon cologne used to welcome people. With its high alcohol content, it serves a dual purpose … refreshing and disinfecting. Water has been delivered to our seats; more available on demand. A cart filled with a variety of cold and hot beverages and snacks has been rolled down the aisle … tummies are happy.

    There’s in-seat entertainment, but I neglected to bring my ear buds so I’ll just pass the rest of the time reading my Kindle.
    Les mer

  • View from mom's room at Yalıçapkını — Boğaziçi, Muğla.
    View from our room at Işıl's House — Boğaziçi, Muğla.Tea time — Boğaziçi, Muğla.Braving the wind on the second floor terrace — Boğaziçi, Muğla.Dinner time — Boğaziçi, Muğla.

    Got Where We Were Going

    17. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    An uneventful bus ride got us to where we were going … to Boğaziçi … in the Muğla Province. Işıl picked us up from the roadside stop in Güvercinlik, a short distance from her hilltop beach house.

    After stopping at Yalıçapkını, the nearby hotel where mom and Deniz will be staying, we headed over to Işıl’s house for a relaxing afternoon … 5:00 o’clock tea (at 3:00 o’clock) … then dinner. Despite the strong wind that came up for a couple of hours late in the day, we managed to sit outside the entire time to enjoy the view from her terrace.

    Mom and Deniz are now back at their hotel. Mui and I have unpacked our bags and settled into our room at Işıl’s place. I’m on the terrace attached to the room, enjoying the cool evening air, the twinkling stars, and the peace and quiet. I’ll read for a bit more and then join Mui in slumber. A busy day is on the agenda for tomorrow.

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    For those interested in such things …

    Dinner consisted of a couple of dishes that are cooked with olive oil and served at room temperature … rice-filled sarma (made with grape leaves); spinach; bastı (made with tomatoes and rice). Plus, pan-grilled köfte (Turkish meatballs). Of course, Turkish yogurt to accompany it all.
    Les mer

  • A "we are in Bodrum" selfie — Muğlaö Turkey.
    Statue honoring those who dive these waters for a living — Bodrum ... Muğla, Turkey.Statue along the waterfront promenade — Bodrum ... Muğla, Turkey.Looking across the harbor towards the theater of antiquity — Bodrum ... Muğla, Turkey.This Greco-Roman theater dates back to the 4th century BC — Bodrum ... Muğla, Turkey.

    Bodrum = Ancient Halicarnassus of Caria

    18. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Located along the Aegean Sea, Bodrum is a seaside town in the Province of Muğla. It is situated on the site of the Ancient Greek City of Halicarnassus … where the Mausoleum of Mausolus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, once stood.

    During my childhood, Bodrum was a lazy beach town filled with cube-shaped, white washed houses. Colorful bougainvillea vines climbing the walls provided delightful pops of color, making for a charming ambiance. The town has since grown in leaps and bounds. It has become way overcrowded. Unfortunate IMHO.

    It was this town that was our destination today. So, after breakfast, we set out to drive the 20 miles or so to spend our day doing a bit of sightseeing. Finding a car lot, we parked the car and walked along the waterfront promenade to get to the castle that would be our first stop today.
    Les mer

  • View of the castle walls from the ramparts of the castle — Bodrum, Muğla.
    White peacocks making themselves at home amongst the ruins within the castle — Bodrum, Muğla.Deniz at the entry gate to the upper courtyard of the castle — Bodrum, Muğla.Some of the many amphorae excavated from wrecks — Bodrum Castle, Muğla.Porcupine-shaped aryballos, probably used for perfume or oil — Bodrum Castle, Muğla.Gold necklace ... Carian Princess Exhibit — Bodrum Castle, Muğla.Minaret of the mosque, converted from the chapel when the Ottomans took over Bodrum Castle.One of several artifacts on exhibit at the museum — Bodrum Castle, Muğla.Raw glass (lower left) and excavated glass pieces — Bodrum Castle, Muğla.Dove resting on the ramparts — Bodrum Castle, Muğla.

    Bodrum Underwater Archaeology Museum

    18. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    The last time Mui and I were in Bodrum was in 2013. It was a port of call on a cruise that left İstanbul and eventually dropped us off in Florida nearly a month later.

    On that occasion, we visited the Bodrum Castle, which was built in 1402 by the Knights of St John and later taken over by the Ottoman Empire in 1523. Used as a fortification for nearly 400 years by the Empire, the castle was eventually abandoned after WWI. In the 1960s, after some restoration work, the castle became the site of the award-winning Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology.

    You really can’t come to Bodrum and not visit this museum, so it was our first stop today … all the more fun because it was Deniz’s first time here.

    Mui and Işıl did a quick wander through the castle and then found a café where they sat and enjoyed beverages while Deniz and I took our time, following uneven streets and staircases to visit each nook and cranny around the castle … checking out the various exhibits featuring artifacts excavated from the many ancient wrecks that are found in the waters around the area … seeking shade where we could to get relief from the sun that was bright and brutally hot.

    Despite the discomfort of the hot and humid conditions, we made the most of our visit, the ₺90 admission covered by the MüzeKart we purchased for ₺60 before we left İzmir. Yup … already ₺30 ahead of the game with the card that is good for one year, and which is accepted at nearly all the museums that are operated under the auspices of the Turkish Ministry of Tourism.
    Les mer

  • Deniz finds a statue of Sadun Boro, the first Turkish seaman to circumnavigate the world — Bodrum.
    View from Trafo Café — Bodrum, Muğla.Two of the local specialties for lunch @ Trafo Café — Bodrum, Muğla.Yummy! Traditional lokma for dessert — Bodrum, Muğla.

    Lunch & Dessert in Bodrum

    18. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    From Bodrum Castle, we meandered into the shopping area for a short stretch. Our destination was Trafo Café, a restaurant overlooking the bay. The café is located in the neighborhood where the power generation plans used to be situated … hence the name Trafo, which means transformer in Turkish.

    Nice views … good food … excellent al fresco dining.

    Dessert was from a street vendor that sells the very popular Turkish sweet known as lokma … basically deep fried fluffy dough in simple syrup. This one was very good … crispy and just sweet enough.

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    For those interested in such things …

    We ordered two of the local specialty dishes. One was the Lokum Pilavı, which wasn’t rice at all, but rather, small chunks of pasta mixed with minced meat. It was served with a side of yogurt and cucumbers that is called kuru [dry] cacık because the yogurt is not watered down to make the traditional cold soup. The second dish was Çökertme Kebabı, which consisted of marinated strips of sautéed beef, served over deep fried straw potatoes and garnished with a garlic yogurt sauce.
    Les mer

  • Zeki Müren ... in the early years of his career — Zeki Müren Art Museum in Bodrum, Muğla.
    Zeki Müren ... in the latter years of his career — Zeki Müren Art Museum in Bodrum, Muğla.

    Zeki Müren Art Museum

    18. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Our after-lunch stroll in Bodrum’s shopping district ended up being much longer than anticipated. And all because the first person from whom we sought directions to our next stop said it was just a couple hundred meters away. Hah! Turns out that it was more like a 1.5 miles each way. No big deal … except it was hot, humid, sticky … way too uncomfortable to walk that distance with very little shade along the way.

    Zeki Müren … a Turkish singer, songwriter, poet, and actor … considered an “Artist of the State” due to his contributions to the music and art industry … the “Liberace of Turkey.” Over-the-top flamboyant in the later years of his career, he had a voice that everyone in Turkey would agree was one of a kind. Though he never commented on his sexual orientation, it is generally accepted that he was gay. That he continued to be loved and respected as a performer at a time when being gay would have been heavily frowned upon speaks to the quality of his art.

    I fondly remember the many live performances we attended at the annual İzmir International Fair when I was growing up in the 60s and 70s. So, I was looking forward to visiting the house-turned-museum where he lived out the last six years of his life here in Bodrum. Unfortunately, it did not live up to my expectations. Not because it was a simple house with simple furnishings. I knew he had lived a quiet, understated life post-retirement … away from prying eyes. Rather it was the caliber — or lack thereof — of the exhibits that was disappointing.

    You win some … you lose some.
    Les mer

  • Mausoleum of Mausolus ... now — Bodrum, Muğla.
    Mausoleum of Mausolus ... model scale showing what it used to be like — Bodrum, Muğla.Plaster cast of a section of the decorative architrave — Mausoleum in Bodrum, Muğla.

    Mausoleum of Halicarnassus

    18. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    One of the Ancient Greek sites in Bodrum is the Mausoleum of Mausolus … one of the seven wonders of the ancient world … dating back to around 350BC. This elevated tomb has, in fact, given us the word that is now used to describe above-ground tombs.

    There wasn’t much to see at this archaeological dig when we stopped by to visit it in 2013. I was hoping that there would have been some work done in the interim since. So, on our way out of Bodrum, we stopped to take a quick peek. Nope … alas, nothing had changed over the past seven years.

    Oh well. At least no cash left our wallets to pay the admission as the site is covered by the MüzeKart.
    Les mer

  • View from our table @ Lahoz Restoran — Boğaziçi, Muğla
    Time to enjoy some yummy food @ Lahoz Restorann — Boğaziçi, MuğlaCioppino (fish soup) ... Turkish-style ... served family-style in a big pot — Boğaziçi, Muğla.

    Dinner @ Lahoz

    18. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    We wrapped up our busy day of sightseeing with dinner at Lahoz, a restaurant along the waterfront of Boğaziçi Village.

    Starting out with a variety of mezes meant we would be keeping the main course light. So we ordered Turkish style cioppino … sea bass steamed in a tasty broth.Les mer

  • R&R in Boğaziçi

    22. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We had one more day with mom and Deniz after our day in Bodrum. A less-than-satisfactory outing to the nearby town of Yalıkavak, put a bit of a damper on our day. Not even a single photo as I don’t think any of us really want to remember it. That said, we had another good dinner at Lahoz Restoran, so not all was lost.

    Monday, the 20th, was a turnover day of sorts. Mom and Deniz hopped on a bus to return to İzmir … Mui’s niece, Banu, and her husband, Mehmet, came from Eskişehir to spend a couple of weeks at their beach house … adjacent to Işıl’s place. Everyone was in the mood to just rest and relax, so we didn’t do much more than that … and help Işıl begin to close-up the beach house for the season.

    Not an exciting footprint, but at least it gives me a place to post the few photos I took.
    Les mer

  • Visiting a long-time friend in Didim, Aydın.

    Visiting a Long-Time Friend

    23. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    On our way back to İzmir today we made a detour to Didim … a beachside town in the Province of Aydın. The town is situated on the location of the Didyma, a city of antiquity that is known for the ruins of the Temple of Apollo.

    We weren’t there to visit the ancient ruins, however. No, we were there to visit with Mui’s long term friend Dilaver and his wife, Berat. The bonus … a high school buddy of theirs, Serdar, was also there. So it was a double reunion of sorts.
    Les mer

  • Chocolate and banana filled pide for dessert at Obi — Alsancak ... İzmir, Turkey.

    Back in Izmir

    23. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    The drive from Didim to İzmir isn’t a long one, but we hit rush hour when we neared the city and it took us forever to get to the apartment. I actually hopped off at a traffic light near mom’s place to visit with them for a bit before joining Işıl and Mui for dinner at Obi for pide … Turkish pizza, if you will.

    We’ll be home for a day and then we’re off on another short jaunt.
    Les mer

  • Another getaway ... this time from İzmir to Ayvalık, Balıkesir.
    View of Sarımsaklı Beach from our room — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.This kitty was determined to get on the bicycle — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.Antique door for sale in Macaron — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.A kitty mural in Macaron — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.Charlie Chaplin decorates the side of a colorful building in Macaron — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.Mui decides to brave the cold sea from Sarımsaklı Beach — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.Another colorful streetscape — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.A bright, cheery yellow door welcomes visitors — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.Ayvalık tostu ... a tasty cheese and sucuk panini — Ayvalık, Balıkesir.

    Weekend in Ayvalık

    27. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    As I mentioned in a previous footprint, we added Ayvalık as a weekend getaway because Murat, my brother-in-law, had a swim meet. Mui’s sister, Işıl, and another swimmer, Ömer, and his wife, Gülşen, also joined us.

    Ayvalık is a seaside town on Turkey’s Aegean Coast … about 1.5 hours north of İzmir … in the province of Balıkesir. What used to be a small, charming village when we used to visit Ayvalık during my childhood, has grown in leaps and bounds. Just like so many other seaside towns.

    We drove up from İzmir Saturday morning, 25 September. After checking into Çınar Hotel, overlooking Sarımsaklı Beach, we convoyed back to the downtown area where we had lunch at a restaurant in the Macaron neighborhood … before moving to a “muhallebici” (pudding shop) for dessert — pudding made with almonds and mastic. A short stroll to stretch our legs and then to Çamlık (literally translated as the place of pines) for afternoon tea … though some of us opted for ice cream instead.

    Since breakfast and dinner were included in the room rate, we returned to the hotel for our evening meal … thus establishing the modus operandi for our two night stay.

    The 26th was the date of the swim meet. Some in our party went to watch the meet. Others went to Cunda, a nearby island that we used to visit by boat when I was a youngster. Today, the island is connected to the mainland via bridges. It was very hot in the sun, so we skipped sightseeing and limited our after lunch stroll to the shopping district where there was at least a bit of shade. We enjoyed tasty pastries and tea at the home of Aylin and Murat’s friends … Aylin & Ali … in the delightful setting of their garden,

    Today, the 27th, we checked out of the hotel mid-morning, but weren’t quite ready to head back to İzmir. Some in our party went to Çamlık again … for lunch and sweet treats. The rest of us drove downtown for a stroll through the back streets, lined with colorful buildings. Along the way, a bit of shopping didn’t go amiss. Our stroll eventually took us to Aşkın Tost Evi, a small shack-of-a-place that was recommended as being “the” place to eat Ayvalık tostu … best described as a panini filled with local cheese and sucuk (Turkish chorizo/sausage).

    After reconnecting with the rest of our party at Çamlık, where we all enjoyed sweet treats, we headed back to İzmir.

    Thus, we have wrapped up another short getaway. Our next getaway is best categorized as a side trip, but we might have a few outings to share in the interim.
    Les mer

  • A festive get together at Sakız Restoran — Alsancak, İzmir.
    Sunset over the bay as one of the ferries comes into the Pasaport terminal — Alsancak, İzmir.Tahini helva dessert with ice cream @ Sakız Restoran — Alsancak, İzmir.

    Dinner @ Sakız

    29. september 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    While in İzmir, we try to fit in dinner with Mui’s cousin, Esin, and her husband, Cenap. Joining us tonight was another cousin’s widow, Ayşen, and her daughter and son-in-law. That Mui’s sister, Işıl, was in İzmir was a bonus.

    Our go-to restaurant for these get togethers is Sakız … on the Kordon waterfront … across from the Pasaport ferry terminal. Our timing was perfect for enjoying the sunset over the bay.

    Instead of ordering off the menu, we opted for the fix-price menu designed to be shared by two people: four cold and two hot appetizers (of our choice); a green salad; main course … in this case, sea bass; wine, beer or rakı (the latter being a traditional, anise-flavored Turkish drink), and dessert … deep fried pastry filled with tahini helva and served with ice cream.

    Great food … even better camaraderie.
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  • Lunch with our friends Hakan and Ferda — Güzelbahçe, İzmir.
    Deep fried mussels ... a local delicacy — Güzelbahçe, İzmir.

    Lunch @ Balıkçı Barınağı

    1. oktober 2021, Tyrkia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The Balıkçı Barınağı is essentially an area with a breakwater that provides protected waters for fishing vessels. The one we went to today is in Güzelbahçe, a suburb of Izmir. Along the waterfront here there is a fish market where one can purchase fresh catch of all sorts that can then be taken to one of the restaurants to be cooked. The restaurants make money from the drinks and mezes that patrons purchase to accompany their fish.

    Mui and Işıl wanted to have lunch at their mom’s favorite restaurant at the Balıkçı Barınağı. So, we took the opportunity to invite Hakan, one of Mui’s long-time friends, and his wife, Ferda, to join us there. Kill two birds with one stone … so to speak.

    We bought some calamari and fresh mussels from the fish market and ordered a couple of mezes from the restaurant for a festive meal with dear friends.
    Les mer