The Jurassic Coast

October 2020 - April 2022
Walking the Jurassic Coast (a UNESCO world heritage site) from the Old Harry Rocks in Dorset to Orcombe Point, near Exmouth in Devon. Read more
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  • 132kilometers
  • Day 256

    11. Lyme Regis

    June 24, 2021 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lyme Regis - "the pearl of Dorset" - lies on Lyme Bay and is close to the border between Dorset and Devon; it is part of the Jurassic Coast and its beaches and Blue Lias cliffs are noted for fossils.

    We park at Woodmead Halls and a short stroll along the River Lym brings us to the Town Mill: this is a 1340 watermill and still works, thanks to being rescued by volunteers in the 1990s. We walk along the Marine Parade to Monmouth Beach and the East Cliff Beach for a cursory look for fossils. Next is The Cobb; this harbour wall dates originally from 1328 and is very famous due to John Fowles' "The French Lieutenant's Woman" - super views. We walk back along the parade to the "cultural quarter" comprising the Museum, Guildhall and Gun Cliff (home to the town's battery of defensive cannons from Elizabethan times).

    We pass St Michael's Church on our way to Broad Street, the heart of Lyme Regis with its many independent shops. We walk around the Langmoor and Lister Gardens; these are high up and there are great views of the Cobb from here. Then it is back via Sherborne Lane to the car park.
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  • Day 538

    12. Lyme Regis to Seaton

    April 2, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We walk along the seafront, past the Cobb, and up a very steep ascent to join the path along the Jurassic Coast. This takes us through the Undercliff National Nature Reserve, a 7 km wilderness area that contains rocks from the Triassic, Jurassic and Creataceous periods. The paths are difficult in places; it is like going back in time, seeing the ferns etc. There has been a lot of tree felling to manage Ash dieback. The thick forest means that there are only occasional views of the cliffs above and the sea below.

    This is a very active coastal area and there have been many landslips over the millenia that have shaped it. The most recent was in 1839 on Christmas Eve; a massive section of cliff slid seaward in an event known as the ‘Great Landslip’, causing a chasm to form behind the landslide block which is now known as Goat Island. We cross this and emerge onto fields and cross to a lane which leads to a path across a golf course. It is then a steep descent to the Axmouth Bridge over the River Ax and into Seaton.

    A very different experience to other parts of the Jurassic Coast walk.
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  • Day 538

    13. Seaton and Beer

    April 2, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Seaton is s small town and fishing harbour located at the mouth of the River Ax and facing onto Lyme Bay.

    We see the Seaton Wetlands in the distance - a freshwater grazing marsh comprising 3 local nature reserves - before passing the small harbour and walking along the seafront to the older part of town, the cultural quarter. Here we see the Jubilee Clock Tower (1887), the old Town Hall (now the Gateway theatre), the high Street and the Seaton Lion at the entrance to a shop (formerly a hotel). A short walk along the shingle beach and then it is up to the village of Beer.

    Beer is a pretty coastal village one mile west of Seaton; it grew up around a smugglers' cove and caves which were once used to store contraband goods (we were not able to visit the caves).
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  • Day 539

    14. Beer Head to Sidmouth

    April 3, 2022 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We walk up to Beer Head, enjoying the lovely views both forward and back. Beer Head is a vertical-walled white chalk headland leading to the Hooken Cliffs, another undercliff walk along a huge landslip with the cliffs above us.

    We reach Branscombe Mouth, cross over to walk above the village of Branscombe and then walk along Weston Cliff to Weston Mouth. Up from here we stop to look around Weston Plats, a 19th century clifftop market garden area farmed by villagers from Brannscombe, on an undercliff where donkeys transported seaweed for fertiliser from the beaches and harvested crops back to the village.

    There is a steep ascent and then a walk along the Higher Dunscombe Cliff top and then more steep ascent up steps to reach the "Frogstone", placed here in 1965 by helicopter. We then walk through South Combe Farm and enjoy excellent views from Salcombe Hill before descending to Sidmouth, crossing a bridge over the River Sid to reach the Esplanade for a view back to the cliffs we have just come down.
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  • Day 540

    15a. Sidmouth; Town

    April 4, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Sidmouth lies at the mouth of the River Sid in a valley between Salcombe Hill to the east and Peak Hill to the west, and is characterised by red-coloured rock cliffs; it is a gateway to the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site.

    Sidmouth was a fashionable and popular Regency and Victorian resort and still has many Period buildings and a mile-long Georgian Esplanade; there are two beaches - Sidmouth town beach to the east and Jacob's Ladder beach to the west.

    We walk along the beautiful Esplanade and then into town to see Sidmouth Market (a building) and walk along Old Fore Street before doubling back to the Parish Church; the museum is closed, unfortunately. We head down to the Esplanade and walk the rest of this and then up Clifton Terrace; there are three fine thatched houses here decorated in "cottage orne" style. We carry on up the hill to reach Connaught Gardens, Sidmouth's showpiece public gardens, overlooking Jacob's Ladder Beach; they are lovely and the so-called Clocktower cafe occupies a former lime kiln. There are excellent views to both west and east from up here.

    We then walk back the edge of town up Glen Road past the magnificent Royal Glen Hotel; this was a former residence of the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria. Then it is along Glen Goyle, a secluded area, and Bickwell Valley, an impressive collection of fine detached houses in large gardens, before walking back to our holiday rental.
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  • Day 541

    15b. Sidmouth; Byes to Donkey Sanctuary

    April 5, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    The Byes in Sidmouth is an attractive green corridor that follows the River Sid from Sidford, a small village on the outskirts of Sidmouth, to the sea at Sidmouth; there are footpaths, open fields and parkland here. The Donkey Sanctuary is a British charitable organisation devoted to the welfare of donkeys and is based a few miles outside of Sidmouth, near Trow.

    We start in Sidmouth at the picturesque Toll House on Waterloo Bridge that crosses the River Sid; it is actually a Grade II listed council home. Along the Byes we pass some weirs and explore Margaret's Meadow, before crossing the river to the village of Fortescue. It is then a steep climb through woods and across a field to reach the road for the descent to the village of Salcombe Regis; this is a tiny unspoilt village with a beautiful Norman Church and has a lovely churchyard. We then cross more fields to reach Slade House Farm, the home of The Donkey Sanctuary, home to over 500 donkeys and mules; it is interesting to walk round and see the animals.
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  • Day 543

    16. Sidmouth to Orcombe Point

    April 7, 2022 in England ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We set off along Sidmouth Esplanade enjoying the view to the east (Salcombe Hill) and to the west (High Peak) before passing the outskirts of Connaught Gardens and starting the ascent up Peak Hill. We have a good view of the Big Picket Rock and Little Picket Rock as we follow the path up High Peak.

    There are spectacular views of Ladram Bay and its red sandstone stacks; we pass Smallstones Point and walk southwest along the coastal path past Brandy Head, a historic RAF Observation Post (now available as holiday accommodation). We reach the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve at the mouth of the River Otter - a saltmarsh and mudflat habitat - and loop up and down a short way to reach the outskirts of Budleigh Salterton and its pebble beach; it is a very attractive small town.

    We follow the cliff path and enjoy views back to Budleigh Salterton and Otterton Ledge and ahead to Straight Point, now an MOD area. We cross a large static caravan site to reach the High Land of Orcombe and Orcombe Point, the most westerly Point of the Jurassic Coast; this status is marked by the " Geoneedle", an obelisk monument unveiled in 2002 representing the variety of stone found along the Jurassic Coast.

    Walking the Jurassic Coast has been a fantastic experience. Click on the blue "The Jurassic Coast" link at the top this post to see the whole trip.
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