• Wales

    18. december 2024, Wales ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    With a new dog in tow, we decided to stay 'local' this year and booked a cottage in a remote town in Wales called Llangynidr in Powys (we cannot pronounce either - Welsh is a mouthful). After a pit stop for Stevie, we made it in just over three hours and checked in just as the sun was setting at 1600. It was already raining and muddy but I was able to back down the single track road just barely scraping by the stone walls to unload. The cottage is cozy but plenty of family room and bedrooms for all as well as a fireplace. After unloading, we walked to the local pub but found it was open for drinks only so back in the car to drive into the nearby town (Bwlch - yes, that’s how it is spelled). Drinks only at that pub too (guess Wednesdays aren't a popular dinner night) but they opened the kitchen just for us and we had a wonderful meal including a Welsh beef pie, burger, bangers and local venison lasagna. We also noticed a rope necklace made with a wooden sign with the letters W and N carved on them. When the kids pointed it out, one of the locals told us the story of the 'Welsh Not' - a sign hung around school children's necks if they were caught speaking Welsh. At the end of the day, they would receive a beating as they attempted to remove the language from the country. Crazy.

    Thursday morning we got up to cook breakfast in and play some games before bundling up and driving to Crickhowell nearby. The popular Crickhowell Bridge over the River Usk made for a good picture. We also got to see the remains of Crickhowell Castle (originally built over 1000 years ago) in the center of town. It was cold and windy so after pics, we found a Co-op and picked up groceries for the next few days and then headed home. We tried for an early dinner at the local pub but, again, closed for food - this time until 1830, not the entire night - so we drove to the next closest pub. Unfortunately, this one wasn't as good and H apparently got food poisoning as he left his dinner on the ground just outside the front door. Gave us a scare that we would all get sick but by the time we got home, he was already hungry again and is normal this morning. Thankfully he perked up because we got to introduce the kids to Liverpool rummy for the first time and it was a big hit. Kept us up late into the night pausing at round 5 but to be continued today. After breakfast in, we are about to bundle up for exploration today. The wind and rain are intimidating but Stevie loves it so we will have to take her along.
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  • Return to Dublin

    26. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We got a very nice hotel and slept in this morning. After packing up luggage into the car, we made our way to brunch in Temple Bar. Bordered by the River Liffey to the north, Temple Bar is a cultural area originally named after a land owner (William Temple) in the 1600s that built his home along the river banks. Now there is actually a bar in the area with the same name that many mistake for the neighborhood (and also makes for a nice picture). We had a yummy (tho very slow) brunch. Giant bowl of beans was a hit with Hudson and the Irish breakfast was very filling. We had to walk off our food and did some more window shopping along Grafton Street and found the location for the opening scene to the movie Once (now right outside a Disney store, which we obviously also visited). From there, it was off to the Ireland Archeological Museum. The highlight were the very well preserved (if not fully intact) bog bodies. One even had a man bun with shaved sides of his head - I guess every fashion comes around, even 2400 years later. Still, a little too lifelike so I found them creepy. From there, we headed back to pick up our car from the hotel and drove to the enormous Phoenix Park. The 1750 acre park just outside of central Dublin was beautiful. Given the late hour, we chose not to visit the zoo and instead found a playground. Mom got to show off her hopscotch skills while Gideon rolled an ankle trying to figure it out. On the way back, we walked past the Wellington Monument obelisk as they were setting up for the Dublin Marathon tomorrow morning before finding the car and driving to the airport. Dinner and a final Guinness before boarding. We got very lucky with the fall weather and look forward to seeing Northern Ireland next time we come back. Late arrival into Heathrow but get to sleep in our own beds (and rooms) tonight.Læs mere

  • Rock of Cashel and back to Dublin

    25. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Had to pack up and leave our Killarney AirBNB morning. A two-hour drive before a carside lunch and then into the Rock of Cashel. It was a cold and windy day but actually had some sunlight. With connections to St. Patrick and the tooth of the Devil, the Rock of Cashel was perched on the top of town with beautiful views. We enjoyed the overlook to Hore Abbey as well as the fields of sheep and cows. After departing, we made our way back to Dublin for our last night. We passed near the Tullamore DEW distellery but it was another two hour drive to Dublin and kids weren't allowed on the tour so we kept going. We saw 4 different rainbows on the way but were lucky to avoid any significant rain. After an early check-in, we made our way to a local toy store that we had seen last week and let the kids explore for a bit before dinner. Walked right past the Dublin needle/spire and got to see it in daylight this time. Did some window shopping before Joce found a ramen place around the corner and we had a delicious meal. Sushi, ramen and broccoli were the highlights. A short walk home for a short movie before bed in our hotel. One more afternoon in Dublin tomorrow!Læs mere

  • Blarney

    24. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Up earlier today to drive 1.5 hours to Blarney. The longest short drive ever made. Lots of curvy backroads the whole way there. We were initially going to skip Blarney Castle based on what we had read in a couple of places that we trust for travel reviews, but with an 80% chance of rain, we decided to skip the ring of Kerry and head to Blarney. We went straight to the castle (which was amazing and well-preserved) and did the obligatory kiss of the Blarney stone (which is supposed to bring you eloquence as a superpower). Winston Churchill and Mick Jagger reportedly have the stone to thank, though I'm not sure how eloquent the latter actually is. They used to dangle you over the edge and you would kiss it from the side of the castle, but thankfully they removed some stones so you lie on your back, hold onto the rails and arch back to kiss the bottom stone. There was also a kind gent spotting you to make sure that you do not slip through the hole:) We then spent a lot of time in the castle and walking the grounds. We enjoyed the poison garden, the druid stone circles and jungle walk. The kids liked the playground and we actually did not get rained on, which was great. We ended up enjoying the castle and gardens so much that it was a bit late to make the trip to Cork for lunch and we found a local spot to grab lunch (a pub of course). We sat by the fire and left with full bellies. Elliot's beef and veg stew was the winner for sure. We hopped back in the car at about half past 3 and headed back to Killarney. Tige cooked for us tonight and he and I took a walk on the high street while the kids played Monopoly. Sad that the trip is nearly over and have enjoyed our time together more than anything. Tomorrow we head back to Dublin with a few fun stops on the way.Læs mere

  • Dingle Peninsula

    23. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We set an alarm this morning so we could get on the road to the Dingle Peninsula. It was another overcast day but no rain and only a short 75 minute drive to our first stop at Inch Beach. Big waves and lots of shells - would have been a great place to visit in the summer. After Inch, the town of Dingle was only 20 minutes away. We did some window shopping before finding Murphy's Pub (just like we remember in Champaign :) ) for lunch. After lunch, we popped into a local market to find some Dingle 'berries' - the boys were happy to oblige. Then, we had another short 15 minute drive to Eask Tower. Built as a solid tower in the mid-1800s to help guide ships to the Dingle harbour, we didn't realize it was at the top of a 600 foot 'hill'. It was quite a climb and we were greeted by 50mph winds at the top. Fortunately, the views were certainly worth it. We could see for miles around and it was the highlight of the day. It was still in the low 50s today and so it was nice to get out of the wind but glad we made the climb. There was a local leather shop at the bottom that we ducked into while the kids waited in the car before our final stop at Blasket Islands. Fortunately we had amazing views from the road this time and no climbing required. Came right back home for showers and pizza so we could watch Everest together (the kids are infatuated with mountain climbing right now). Ready to head to Cork tomorrow.Læs mere

  • Killarney

    22. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We checked out of our lovely BNB in Limerick and made our way to Killarney. Most cities in Europe are twinned or sisters with other cities. The US sister cities for Killarney included Springfield, Illinois, which we thought was appropriate. Killarney is so lovely and we had planned a trail ride when we arrived. Everyone has been on a horse before other than Hudson and we were all excited! The weather looked dismal on our drive, but once we arrived, we were met with blue skies and a lot of sun. It was gorgeous. We arrived at the stable and met our horses (Butters, Shayann, Tony, Peter, and Sive). After a few nervous tears a lead was attached to Tony and our sweet Huddy. We had a fantastic ride through the gorgeous Killarney National Park. Lakes and open green land, trees and so many deer. Literally, 40 does and a couple of bucks and then an entire field of bucks without mates. Gideon’s horse Butters was pretty spicy but he kept him in line. We had a bit of a scare when Elliot’s horse took off trailing screams when we were all trotting. She handled it super well and laughed it off and finished the ride after the caught her and brought her back. We were so relieved.

    After the ride we gathered supplies while the kids relaxed. We went for a nice dinner at Bricin and tried Boxty (a traditional potato pancake filled with lamb and chicken. The desserts were the real stars (a super yummy chocolate cake and a fruit crumble. After dinner, we walked the high street and popped into a few wool shops. So many beautiful sweaters. We walked for about an hour and then headed home.

    Right to bed and up early for a day on the Dingle Peninsula.
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  • Cliffs of Moher

    21. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    After breakfast we made our way to a small village called Doolin, along the Wild Atlantic Way, which has the trailhead for the Cliffs of Moher walk. The drive through the countryside was gorgeous, with tons of sheep and cattle and beautiful stone walls marking each plot of land. Super green in the sunshine. You used to be able to hike the 13 km trail from Doolin to Liscannor, but they closed the southern half of the trail in April this year due to safety concerns. We hiked from Doolin to just north of the visitors center, about 6 miles out and back. We walked in the low 50 degrees against 25 miles/hr wind with occasional gusts that made me nervous that one of the boys was going ton fall over. A bit of rain, but way better than we thought it would be. Not many people on the trail which made it even more special. We had a standing picnic at the top and then headed back down to the town. The views were gorgeous. Photos don’t really do it justice. The kids were amazing hikers as usual. We did a little bit of shopping at the craft store by where we parked and packed up for the 1 ish hour drive to Limerick. The roads here are substantially larger than England, but people drive on the left, which was surprising. The host of our Airbnb met us at our apartment and we dumped our bags and went down the road to The Glen Tavern. Standard pub fare, food was fine, though not super special, but we had really kind service.

    Hopefully a great night’s sleep is ahead for all. Excited for tomorrow and to head to Killarney, which will be home base for the next 3 nights.
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  • Galway

    20. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    After a late night walk across the Ha’Penny bridge to dinner, we found the Dublin landmark Spire. Hard to see in the dark but an odd 400 ft tall needle in the middle of town. Its purpose is unclear but it was certainly interesting.

    In the morning, we took an Uber to the airport to pick up our rental car for the 2+ hour drive to Galway. On the way, our walking tour was cancelled as Storm Ashley made landfall with red flood and wind warnings. 35-45 mph winds for the last half of the drive. We were able to find an open seafood restaurant (great fish chowder and fish and chips) before we went shopping for swim trunks since our Galway plans had to be shelved. After we checked into the hotel, we made our way to the pool and sauna for a couple of hours as the wind storm continued outside. We decided to order pizza in and watch the third Batman rather than make our way outside again. Sleeping in the same hotel room made for a late night but at least we all had beds.

    After packing up and showers, we had dinner at a local cafe right by the coast. The sun is out and the waffles and Irish breakfast were delicious. The wind is still strong but at least the rain is holding off for now. 1.5 hour drive to the planned hiking spot. Hopefully the 35mph gusts subside on the drive.
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  • 36 hours in Dublin

    19. oktober 2024, Irland ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Elliot was already off for half-term and we grabbed Huddy early from school and went to Gid’s rugby match (they won:). Headed to Heathrow and after an hour delay took off for Dublin. We arrived at our hotel and went out for groceries and dinner at 930. Kids were happy and fed and we ended up all in bed by midnight.

    Up in the morning for our 10 am walking tour. We really enjoy the Guru walks. Guides are always super knowledgeable and give great insight on food and experiences around the city. We walked for about 2.5 hours around the city learning about their difficult history with the Vikings, the Norse and, of course, the British. We wandered the streets including the famous busker and shopping Grafton Street. We ended the tour at Christ Church which was beautiful. We had about an hour for lunch and went around the corner for lunch at a pub called Darkey Kelly’s for delicious bangers and mash, beef stew, burgers and pasta. I had my first Guinness in Ireland and it was so different from the US. Light and delicious.

    This morning we hopped online at 9 to pick up last minute tickets to Kilmainham Gaol (jail). It sells out months in advance but they release tickets for a few slots at 9. We were lucky 🍀 enough to get them and headed there for 130 tour. Barely made it! Super interesting and sad look at Irish history. Well worth a trip.

    Afterwards we grabbed the most delicious hot chocolate and mocha from Butler’s cafe. We walked around Trinity college and down Grafton street (where one of our favorite movies ‘Once’ was filmed). Dinner in a local pub packed with people, live music and Irish dancers. Home at 10 pm so we could all read to sleep.
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  • Last days in CPH

    16. august 2024, Danmark ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We all slept in yesterday and then did some October trip planning while it rained all morning. After finally venturing out for lunch, we found a place with a lunch platter that had the local speciality - Smørrebrød (basically an open face sandwich with the primary topping being pickled herring). Joce wasn’t a fan but I enjoyed it. The platter ended up being way too much food so we decided to walk to our next destination - Green George (the only troll in the city). Our tenth and final troll of the trip, he was located in Christiana, a rough area of town that has been completed cleared out because of gang wars and is undergoing a transformation to make it liveable again. Gideon finally found a bag that he has been searching for on our last three trips and Elliot and Jocelyn found rings at a local vendor.

    From Christiana, we walked to a large pedestrian bridge and stumbled upon Broens Street Food Market. Since we had just eaten, we marked it down to return and continued into town to window shop. A little more rain came down (and with it, a rainbow) before finally heading home. We grabbed some snacks to enjoy while we watched a movie (Yes Day) before bed.

    Today, we packed up and took our luggage to storage at the Copenhagen Central Terminal, about 15 minutes away. We decided to sign up for a last minute discount escape room. We beat the Time Machine (Back to the Future themed) with 10 minutes to spare and only 1 real hint (average for the room was 6 hints). It was a good room. We then got to walk back across the bridge to have lunch at Broens. Joce and I had yummy street tacos and drinks, Elliot had pasta and boys had burgers. After the late lunch, we still had time to shop since we didn’t find any souvenirs yesterday. After shopping, we headed back to the train station (and got a picture of Tivoli which is right across the street) before boarding our short train ride to the airport (very convenient and cheap to get to the airport in this city). Hit up global blue for a refund on our sales tax before boarding our flight home. A relaxing trip with (mostly) great weather.
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  • Going on a troll hunt

    15. august 2024, Danmark ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today was a super cool day. We rented a car for the day and Tige went and picked it up at 930 while I got the kids and picnic supplies ready. He picked us up and we headed out of the city. We hiked 9.5 miles and found 9 of Thomas Dambo’s trolls made from recycled wood. We found all of the 6 Forgotten giants, his fake 100th/101st, real 100th, and a fisherman along a massive clear blue country lake. So freaking cool. He is a Danish artist around our age and has made 139 trolls around the world, many in Denmark. His latest was one in Austin funnily enough. They were all wonderful, with incredible faces, interactive with nature and many very hidden. Most were found after a short hike, but one (my favorite) was buried deep in the forest and could only be found by solving a riddle in his book (or by googling and taking a leap into the forest). None of the paths or parking were obvious. We found Mane Mor (mama) by following birdhouses nailed to trees into the forest.

    In order that we found them: Teddy Friendly, Glade Anders, Mane Mor, Runde Rie, Lille Tilde, Oscar under the bridge, Thomas on the Mountain, Hilltop Trine, and Sleeping Louis.

    We stopped for a picnic at Runde Rie after a long hike on the ridge over the water (after a failed precarious hike along the water). Everyone has a different favorite. Tige dropped us off at an Italian spot near our place and the bigs and I ordered pasta and pizza and headed home for showers. While not excited for a second round of a 6th floor walk up tonight, G and I picked up food and met H and Tige after they took the metro back. It was nice to get out into the beautiful Danish countryside and do something a bit different today.
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  • Tivoli

    14. august 2024, Danmark ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    It was pleasant to sleep in. Breakfast before walking to Tivoli, the 181 year old (anniversary happens to be tomorrow) Copenhagen amusement park. It’s not nearly as cheap as Disneyland Paris but you at least get your ride pictures for free. We started on a small coaster that was perfect for Dad and Hudson. After a laser gun shooting coaster, we did the ferris wheel and coaster #3 - no hills and fast but the circles made mom and dad dizzy. Hot dogs (the Copenhagen street food) for lunch before splitting up - mom with E and G for the biggest coaster (The Demon) while H and dad did dragon boats, bumper cars and a small drop ride. Gid and Joce did the huge drop ride (207 feet) twice. They loved it but no way anyone else was going to do it. A few more coasters later, we finished the full day with an outdoor jazz concert, final bumper cars and watching the ducks at the fish pond. After the 7 hour day (and a little motion sickness) we made our way to a local sidewalk burger joint - the 30 minute wait was well worth it. We picked up picnic supplies on the way home for our adventure tomorrow - renting a car and going on a troll hunt. Looking forward to see outside the city.Læs mere

  • Copenhagen

    13. august 2024, Danmark ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    After a one day work week, we got up at 430 and quickly loaded up to make our 7am flight out of Heathrow. Copenhagen was a 90 minute flight and then a short (but packed) metro ride to our first stop, brunch at Polly’s (recommended by our Airbnb host). It was a delicious breakfast (at 1130 local time) and we grabbed a few groceries before walking the 20 minutes on the cobblestone sidewalks to our Airbnb to drop our bags (lucky that they allowed us to do that). It is a cool apartment lived in by an artist and her family and in the area of Vesterbro which has tons of restaurants and shops, but a bit less touristy. They have cool community spaces here- basketball and football courts, ping pong and tons of benches where people sit and visit and eat.

    We wandered toward the Center of town window shopping and finding all of the things that they want in the LEGO store for Christmas and met up with our free walking tour by city hall. It is Pride week here now and there was live music and vendors nearby. Claes, a Danish guy, took us on a 3 hour tour of the city. We saw important building and squares, had a crash course in Danish history, learned a few Danish words and of course learned about the food. At the break we grabbed the recommended pastries- yum! We noticed a lot of similarities with Iceland- food, the concept of hygge (cozy comfortableness, spending time with people who mean a lot to you). We knew that Greenland and the Faroe Islands are part of Denmark and I asked him about Iceland (which was part of it until 1950). We learned a little about the monarchy and their tax system. The kids enjoyed it too. Afterwards we walked around the harbour, hung out and found a place to have traditional Danish food (at least dinner food, the weird herring sandwiches will have to wait for another day.

    Tomorrow we head to the 3rd oldest amusement park in the world. Kids are stoked.
    9 mi
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  • Buda and Pest

    26. juli 2024, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After sleeping in (the late nights are catching up with us) we packed for a day on the Buda side. Before we walked down to the Danube, we made a side trip to a Rubik’s cube store that has original Rubik’s cubes signed by Erno Rubrik. It was heaven for Gideon and he worked on the giant cube. Joce and the boys stopped at a quirky public toilet called the Art Toilet, which had art installations inside. Afterwards, we made our way to the Danube on the Pest side and found another mini statute by Kolodko - we learned about him on our walking tour. A Hungarian sculptor, he made 50 mini sculptures and scattered them all over Hungary with 25 in Budapest alone. All have a meaning and relationship to Hungarian history and/or the people of Hungary. Our tour guide showed us Kermit the Frog by the studio buildings yesterday (the Muppets and Sesame Street were the only American kids shows our guide had growing up). The second one we stumbled across was a balloon dog resembling the artwork of the sculpture artist Jeff Koons whose wife is Hungarian. We walked across the Chain bridge (only pedestrians, busses and cabs allowed) and made it to the base of Buda Castle hill. Our guide told us about some hidden elevators so we avoided the 200+ steps to the top. The castle complex is now museums and libraries with some still being renovated from the 2020 earthquake. The highlight was definitely the Mathias Church. The tiles were striking and really stood out from many places in the city. We paid to go inside and enjoy a short break before making our way over to the Fisherman’s Bastion and a beautiful view over the Danube to the Pest side. Since we had a late breakfast, we ended up with lunch at 1530 at a nearby bistro. The goulash and staple paprika hot sauce (Erős Pista) were very good and burgers for the kids were okay. After lunch, we walked down the hill to find two more Kolodko statues by the Danube (a tank with a limp cannon representing Russian oppression and an, of course, a Rubik’s cube). We grabbed a tram (our only one of the trip as it was very easy to walk in the city) and went back to the Pest side for chimney cakes at Molnars (essentially dough that is spiralled around spit and baked and then filled with ice cream). Cinnamon was certainly the star. We cancelled our dinner reservations (given that they were only an hour later) and instead went to our first ruin bar - Szimpla Kert. Szimpla claims to be the first ruin bar in the early 2000s. Located mostly in the Jewish quarter (which is where we stayed), abandoned buildings were bought and converted into bars, making sure to retain their rustic feel. Szimpla is the most popular (and apparently the most expensive though much cheaper than any UK bar we’ve ever been to) and very eclectic. It was a very fun atmosphere and a huge place with two floors and all sorts of different rooms with 6-8 different bars to choose from. We just had one beer before grabbing 2 small frozen pizzas and heading home at 2000 for showers. We rinsed off and then had a lite dinner before packing and bed.

    We were all up for breakfast but since our host allowed us to check out late, we decided to treat the kids (and ourselves) to an escape room as Hungary apparently invented them. We found one nearby that was called Sky Heist. The room was pretty incredible with multiple different doors and spaces and even a second spiral staircase to a second floor. We escaped with 6 minutes to go (though we did need a hint which we always try to avoid) and it was a good time. Had enough time left over to get food at food trucks in Karavan by Szimpla before getting our luggage and taking a car to the airport.

    We will miss Budapest and will certainly come back. We couldn’t do the famous thermal baths because the kids are too young but it is a beautiful city. Our time always go by too fast but we had a wonderful trip!
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  • Budapest Day 1

    25. juli 2024, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We were up early (but running later per usual) to eat and meet our boat tour on the Danube. It was a cool vantage point to see the beautiful buildings along both sides of the river. We are staying on the Pest side and decided to stick to sightseeing there today. We had the first of the traditional dishes for lunch (Langos). It is a flatbread that is fried, brushed with a garlic oil and then topped. Hungarians apparently love sour cream on everything, so a midwestern girl is right at home. We all had some combination cheese, sour cream, veggies, salami or salmon. Delicious! We signed up for a free walking tour with a group called Guru walk. It is always amazing how knowledgeable the guides are. Robert was a history buff and we met outside the St. Stefan Basilica, which was the first in central Eastern Europe. He walked us through Hungarian history from prehistoric times, through Attila the Hun, and the Austro-Hungarian empire to start. It was cool to integrate some of what we learned last summer in Austria. We saw the stumbling stones that have been made by artist Gunter Demnig, a German artist who installs the brass 10x10 cm stones at the last know residence of people taken in the holocaust. He has installed over 70,000 stones in over 1,200 cities. There are mixed opinions, but we thought that they were very interesting. We next walked to the liberty square and learned about the divisive issues that still exist regarding statues and policies of recognition of the Holocaust (300-400,000 soldiers and civilians and 500-600,000 Hungarian Jews were killed in WW2) and the choices that were made to join with Germany in both world wars.

    We saw the American Embassy and statues of Reagan and George HW Bush and learned how Elvis Presley helped expel the Soviets from Hungary after university students revolted and he said in an interview how brave they were.

    Before WW1 Pest was supposed to be the new center of the AH empire and huge buildings were built to house a stock exchange and the naval headquarters. After WW1 Hungary lost half of its land and population to surrounding countries and it never became the center. Those buildings were renovated to their original appearance and now are film sets. Die hard, Mission Impossible, and many other movies were filmed there. As we were there Angelina Jolie was shooting and Ryan Reynolds and Blake Lively were as well. Both Paramount and Fox were started by Hungarians and there is a strong connection with Hollywood. The city is so beautiful and so diverse that it really can play the role of a variety of old/European cities. Erno Rubrik is another Hungarian superstar and when the guide pulled out 2 cubes, Gid jumped up and said he would solve them. He did a 2x2 with a round of applause and then solved the second one right after it. Robert was impressed. We also learned that ballpoint pens, escape rooms and the jazz standard Gloomy Sunday were all born from Hungary.

    The tour ended at the Shoes by the Danube holocaust memorial, which was also very powerful. All in all it was a fantastic tour.

    We left the tour and went back near Parliament to plan the rest of the day. We went over to the Budapest Eye (substantially smaller than the London eye, but still fun). Next up was some shopping in a vintage shop, dropping our stuff for dinner. The first place we tried was booked for the night so we went to another spot recommended by our guide called Rueben. Traditional Hungarian food, great prices. Tige had goulash and a pork dish, Gid had a fried turkey breast stuffed with Camembert, H had a schnitzel, E had delicious pasta with cheese sauce and I had cabbage stuffed with meat with smoked ham on top. Best meal yet. Home for showers and be just near 10. Such a fun day!
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  • 24 hours in Zagreb

    23. juli 2024, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    We arrived in Zagreb yesterday afternoon. Tige went to return the rental car and I waited to meet our host to get into the apartment. It was older but spacious, and had enough beds for us all. We walked around the lower town and grabbed sandwiches for lunch at Pingvin, which were really good. We tried to go to several museums, the cathedral, a couple of churches and the stone gate. Everything that we tried other than the very subtle stone gates was either closed on Monday or closed permanently. St. Mark’s church had a beautifully tiled roof, which I suspect we will see more of as we head to Budapest. We went to a small museum of illusion and Elliot and Tige tried to solve the puzzle of the Hanoi tower. Gid and I went to the gift shop to solve wooden puzzles. An hour later they had done it.

    We walked through parks and the capital city is really pretty. We found an Indian restaurant and ate outside. The food was amazing! We went home full and ready for showers and bed.

    This morning we checked out and took our luggage to the train station to store and went out to see a few more things. First stop was the Nicola Tesla museum. It was really a museum about energy transformation through the years/decades and the evolution of electricity and energy efficiency. I thought it was really interesting and Tesla was an incredible guy, but I think I enjoyed it more than the others. We left there and walked 20 min to Kai Street food, which was freaking delicious. We had Bao buns with beef and pork tacos. Elliot had a chicken sandwich meal that was also a star. I love when we try things that are a bit out of the ordinary for the kids. They even had a really solid Pale Ale made by Zmajska pivovara. Hands down one of the best meals of the trip.

    Afterward we went to the cathedral, which could just be seen under construction. The cathedral was damaged in an earthquake in 2020 and is being rebuilt. Tige found a park with a playground and we did the crossword while the kids played. We then went to retrieve our luggage and grab sandwiches before our train to Budapest. We have taken a lot of trains,, but this has been a crazy trip thus far. It was supposed to be a direct train (5.5 hours) but then wasn’t (not stressful at all trying to figure out where to get off while on the train). We switched trains and then went into Hungary and stopped for what felt like forever and the. The train reversed and turned. The first train had AC and plugs but this one sadly does not and we are at least an hour behind. No dining car for water either Going to be a late, hot night and hopefully we end up in Budapest lol.
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  • Two days in Rakovica

    21. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Yesterday we rented a car and made a 3-hour trip into the heart of the Croatian countryside for a memorable part of the holiday. We arrived at our BNB outside Plitvice National Park (the true destination) and it was exactly as advertised. The 2 bedroom apartment was incredibly cheap, but clean and had everything that we needed. It is also a small local honey operation, complete with Aphytherapy. Essentially you sit in a little room and hook up a breathing apparatus to a busy hive and breathe in a certain way to reap the benefits. It is supposed to be good for the immune system, the longs, etc (as long as you aren't allergic to bees, otherwise catastrophe ensues). I don't think any of our lives were changed, but it will be one of those weird stories from their childhood. We went to dinner down the road and crashed early because we had a 7-8 am entry to the national park.

    Plitvice National Park is an insanely beautiful park with pristine turquoise lakes and waterfalls. We elected the 5-mile hike, through boardwalks around the lower lakes, across a massive lake by boat and then a second hike around the upper lakes. The latter were my favorite, not a bad view or picture to be had. We had a picnic lunch and finished much earlier than we thought. We checked our a few options (ziplines, activity parks) but ended up taking Sharon's advice and settled on a rafting trip (after calling to confirm that it was ok for the kids). We signed up for the 3-7 pm trip and grabbed our suits and swim shoes and headed about 20 minutes up the road. We joined 2 families from Norway and one that did not speak any English, put on our helmets and life jackets and drove about 30 minutes to the Mrežnica river. The tour was in raft kayaks and Tige and Hudson went in one, Gid and I in another, and one of the kind Norwegians went with Elliot. The river was clear and cool and the guide was helpful and helped position us for sliding down 9 waterfalls (the 10th we did on our own). We started early by jumping from a 23-foot waterfall and everyone did it! Hudson and Elliot joined brave Gideon and Mom and Dad went over also. Sadly, my Apple watch did not survive the jump and was discovered to be missing about 30 minutes later. Tige's died when we were swimming in Dubrovnik, so this has been a poor showing for Apple watches all around.

    Gideon was the laziest partner :) and after we hit the spring-fed freezing cold section he and H swapped boats to help me out at the end. We tumbled down the past few waterfalls and a couple of small rapids and brought the kayaks ashore. It was a super fun spur-of-the-moment way to spend the afternoon. We stopped for dinner at a local spot and found 1 euro ice cream for the drive home. We visited with the owner Brigita and their sweet pup Bella and then went up for showers and bed.
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  • Split, Trogir, Blue Lagoon

    19. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    Today was another scorching day in Split. Luckily we had planned a boat/sightseeing/snorkeling trip and we were up early for breakfast and the walk to the pier to meet our crew at 9:30 am. Our captain was a super fun guy called Ivan and we went out with 3 other couples and 1 other teen for a half day of fun. First, we drove for about 30 minutes in the speedboat. The boys were laid out on the back deck, living their best lives. We arrived at Trogir, a small city on a small peninsula that is >2000 years old. There was a crumbling fortress called Kula Kamerlengo to see, but we spent most of our time walking the narrow stone streets. We did some shopping and when they said that this city was known to have one of the oldest gelaterias in Europe, we knew what we were having for second breakfast. Side note: Croatia's gelato is good, but no match for Italy/Sicily - still the winners of the 'best gelato in the world' contest. After the stop, we hopped back on the boat and cool captain Gideon drove the boat to the next spot (while requesting and singing It's Time by Imagine Dragons). I was never that cool at 9 YO. We ended up in a beautiful blue cove with clear cool water to jump into from the boat and snorkeling. We snorkeled there for about an hour and then were back on the boat for a snack, and drinks, and then on to the Blue Lagoon, a popular boating and snorkeling spot. Captain Hudson drove this time and the rest of us just enjoyed the ride. We swam from the boat to a spot between 2 islands where you could touch on the rocks and scoped out sea urchins and fish. Tige realized that he lost his sunglasses on the swim (not sure why he was swimming with them:) and somehow, just as we had given up and were nearly back to the boat, Gideon dived down about 12 feet and found them near an anchored boat. I wouldn't have believed it if I weren't there. We sped back to the marina and arrived a bit late at around 3 pm. We ended up grabbing food at the market for a picnic and ate on a bench with the pigeons nearby. I thought that I was grabbing a bit of butter for the bread and when I opened it it had the most terrible stench. Maslac = butter, but what I had grabbed adjacent to the butter was kvasac, which was yeast. So gross that it makes Marmite look appetizing.

    After that, we walked for about 20 minutes to one of the rare sand beaches. It was fine (but I was done with the sun) but I think that we all agree that we prefer pebble beaches to sand in Croatia. It keeps the water so pristine and beautiful. We walked home and showered and Tige and I went around the corner and picked up sandwiches, wings, and fries and we ate and hung out, introducing them to Batman Begins. Tomorrow we have our last hours in Split and then grabbing a rental car and heading inland.
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  • Split

    18. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    We had to set an alarm and pack up from our favorite Airbnb this morning. We made it out by 10 though and got to spend another 90 minutes at our beach.
    More SUP, snorkeling (Gideon found €10 at the bottom yesterday!) and swimming out past the buoys before we went back to change and our host offered to drive us to the ferry. Korčula (korch-u-la) was beautiful and we are already making mental plans to return which is rare for us. The ferry was hot and made only one stop but it was at a popular island and it became very crowded for the last hour of the 2.5hr trip but fortunately, no sea sickness. We finally made it to Split . According to our previous GoT guide, Split was simply a port city that allowed access to the other islands using the ferry until Game of Thrones came here and made it famous. It was a pretty busy city today. We found a bus that took us right to our apartment and took a break and enjoyed the air conditioning. We are still Americans. After some FaceTime to wish happy birthday to our mothers, we changed and headed out for some dinner in the town center. We found an amazing seafood restaurant and spoiled ourselves with ceviche, tuna, and amberjack... all very delicious. Then we walked the main drag toward the bay (after gelato, of course) and around the center of town (magnet shopping, our go-to souvenir) before catching another bus back home at 2100. We made it home and hit the market across the street for breakfast food and snacks with only 6 minutes to go before closing. It was like being in a game show. Back home to shower the salt and sweat off before bed. Up early for a speedboat tour to one more tiny island and snorkeling. 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms are a nice bonus in Split.Læs mere

  • Korčula Town & Vrbovika, Korčula

    17. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Tuesday we woke up to our beautiful new place and Lucy (the owner) dropped us in town to explore. We shopped and walked the streets of old town, which is also a walled city. Gideon needed a Croatian football kit and Elliot found some local coral earrings. We had lunch on the water- yummy mussels, calamari, risotto and sandwich and enjoyed the view. Gelato and a walk up to more shops where we picked up some balls for the water and food to grill for dinner. We came home and swam until dinner. I think we all had the best nights sleep that we have had in weeks.

    Today was a chill beach day, much needed by all. Even the kids said that this was one of the best days so far. We had brunch and then spent the day at the beach. It was much more quiet today which was perfect and we each had nice paddle boarding rides, snorkeling and swimming. Gid found a sea urchin and we enjoyed the coral and fish swimming around us. It is difficult to capture the color and clarity of the water. Everywhere you swim, no matter how deep, you can see clear to the bottom. So beautiful. We had a picnic lunch and read and hung out.

    For dinner we went to the other little spot by our house. Homemade noodles and beef, chicken burgers, hamburgers with house cut fries and homemade buns as the sun set on our last day in our little off the beaten path place. Home for showers and snuggles before bed.
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  • Korčula

    15. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    We had another full day today. After breakfast, we packed up our bags for a 10 am checkout and walked to Bellevue Beach about 10 minutes away in Dubrovnik. It was a secluded beach behind a hotel off the rocks and was just what we needed early in the morning. It was 90 by the time we got in the water and the temperature was perfect, just like yesterday. It's surprisingly easy to float in the sea too. We got to spend about 90 minutes before we headed back to pick up our luggage at our Airbnb and took an Uber to the ferry port. We had a wonderful lunch across the street (pizzas and a burrito and tuna salad) before boarding the 2.5 hour ferry to Korčula island. Between the sun and meclizine, most of us fell asleep on the calm boat ride. We arrived in Korčula at about 1630 and took a cab to our Airbnb 10 minutes away. We pulled up to meet the owner who owns the house next door and she showed us around one of the best Airbnbs we have been to. We found it at a discount since it had no reviews but it is perfect for us and even nicer than the pictures with great finishes and even a garden with swings and a firepit grill and then she gave us a brand new bike and a stand-up paddleboard to use while we are here. The best part was when she walked us 100 meters down to the beach with a restaurant shack for dinner and drinks. After unpacking and shopping, we changed back to beach clothes and took the kids down to the water. It is a great spot with lots of kids and an entire campground with lots of tent campers nearby. The SUP was a hit with all three kids and it was hard to pull them out of the water for burgers for dinner. We let them get back in afterward for 15 minutes as the sun went down. Home for showers and straight to their (bunk) beds while we watch the Bear before falling asleep. Apparently, a donut and fresh fish truck is coming by tomorrow... should be an interesting combination.Læs mere

  • Dubrovnik

    14. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ 🌙 81 °F

    Today was a good day. We discovered that we have completely lost our Texas bred heat tolerance. So hot today. I could only bring travel size sunscreen (to get started) because we just carried on and we slathered up and headed out around 830. We are a 30 min walk from the old city and headed there to meet for our Game of Thrones tour. We watched all 8 seasons and a lot of it was filmed in Croatia. The locations were very cool to see (but the kids were a bit lost). Still cool to see the forts and fortresses around the city. Your guide was great but it was so hot! The old city has cool old huge fountains for water refills and we definitely drank our share. After the tour we found delicious gelato (mango and coconut were highlights per usual) and then we went to the maritime museum included on our pass to escape the heat. No air con, but a bench will do. They had a cool kids area that the boys loved. After we left there we went to lunch at a delicious Mediterranean spot called
    Dubrovka 1836. The kids had pizza and a schnitzel and Tige and I shared an octopus salad and hot veggies that were super yummy. Bread, beer and an aperol spritz rounded out the meal. After lunch we made our way to Banje beach and spent 2.5 hours in the Adriatic Sea. So lovely and refreshing. Kids were desperate for the water. We changed and headed back to town to climb the stairs to the wall around the town. A very cool 2km walk around the old town. I will admit that I was 100% done by the end (esp after having Covid last week) and demanded a cab home. We made it back, had showers and Tige went out for groceries. Kids ate and passed out and we finished what is at this time a heartbreaker for England. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 tomorrow we head to our island hang!
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  • Croatia

    13. juli 2024, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Elliot finished school last week and the boys' last day was Thursday so we have been counting the days until we could travel again. We had plenty of time to pack yesterday and this morning for our 1500 flight out of Heathrow. The direct flight to Dubrovnik was smooth and we took a waiting van to our Airbnb about 30 minutes north into Dubrovnik. It was 88 degrees when we landed! The kids said they felt like they were back in Texas.
    After dropping our things at our Airbnb, we immediately headed out for the local market before they closed and then went out to dinner for some seafood. Back home to sleep before an early day tomorrow - it's going to be hot! Excited to see the Old Town... and the beach!
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  • Hikes and views

    31. maj 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Day 3 and 4 did not disappoint. Yesterday we set out on a 6 mile loop hike through open fields, forests and ending on the high street in Burford. It was an “epic” hike per Hudson. We wandered through a huge field/hill, eventually found the path and then stumbled on a small church called St. Oswald’s in Winford out in the middle of the forest part of the walk. No town around, no houses anywhere. We went into the church, which dated back to the 12-13th century and saw preserved paintings on the walls that were just as old. Such a cool find. After a few miles we ended up on the high street, enjoyed the shops and lunch at a pub called The Angel. We headed back home for movie night and much later, pizza and some much needed rest.

    This morning we slept in and cooked breakfast and headed up to Bourton-on-the-water. Supposedly the ‘Venice of the Cotswolds,’ but I don’t think that anyone who thinks this has ever been to Venice. This was the most touristy town so far with tons of people in the streets and along the banks of the river that runs through the high street. We first stopped at the Dragonfly maze, which was surprisingly fun and the man who owned it a true delight. We walked around town, in and out of shops and then grabbed a snack at a pub on the river.

    Next we backtracked to a National Trust property called Sherborne Park Estates that we stumbled upon on the way to town (bc our Huddy Buddy was carsick). It had nice reviews and we ended up doing a nearly 4 mile hike through the property. A lot of it was forest hiking, which is Joce’s favorite. After the hike we ditched the car at home and walked the river to town and had dinner at the Bull Hotel. Very nice food, meh service. Back home to hang out on our last night and heading back tomorrow. We all agree that this was the relaxed, outdoor trip that we all needed. June is full of concerts (TAYLOR, Kings of Leon, Pearl Jam and the National) and the kids will be done with Summer Term before we know it!
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  • Bibury trout and Cotswold Wildlife Park

    30. maj 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    It was typical English summer weather - low 60s and windy - this morning but we decided to go fishing at a trout farm in Bibury, a short drive away. We got to feed the farm fish before fishing for our dinner. It was a little like picking your lobster out of a tank but the kids had fun. Joce landed a whopper - 4.2 pounds! It was a little strange beating them over the head with a stick but it got the job done. After the boys got to learn how to clean the trout (Elliot wasn’t interested), we picked up a grocery store lunch and made our way to the Cotswold Wildlife Park. We ate lunch at some picnic tables before walking around the wide open zoo like park. Rhinos and zebras and giraffes were the highlights along with a big playground. The sun finally came out and it was a pleasant afternoon. After seeing the whole park, we came home and Joce cooked up the fish for dinner while the kids played games. After a filling dinner, we snuggled up for the 9th Star Wars movie before bed. A good day together.Læs mere

  • Chipping Campden and Fairford

    29. maj 2024, England ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    As usual, we waited until the last minute to pack and headed off from Beaconsfield at around 11am. We headed to Chipping Campden- a beautiful village filled with houses using the gorgeous Cotswold stone, a light yellow/amber local stone. We saw a market hall from the 1600s and ordered the weirdest sandwiches ever (Grandma’s kitchen looked like a professional operation compared to this spot). But the owner was lovely and the sandwiches did the trick. We found the stone that labels the start of the Cotswold Way, a 100 mile path from here to Bath. We took a short 2 mile hike to Dover’s Hill. Gorgeous views of sheep-filled green hills. Next we drove for a quick view of Broadway tower, but decided to head to our bnb rather than stop. About 45 minutes later we found our cottage in lovely Fairford. The host had made us brownies and homemade bread and left eggs, butter and milk for us which was a nice surprise. We walked the 10 min to the high street and found the local market and got what we needed for breakfast tomorrow. We walked back to a local Italian restaurant and had lovely pasta, gnocchi and pizza. We peaked through the windows of the shops and the found a path along the river Coln and wound our way back home. This sleepy village is just what we needed. Home for a game of battleship and a fire and tucked in for the night.Læs mere

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