Lukovë

Albania is not in the EU and they don’t use, but will accept, the euro. This Albanian experience is only with the coast. From the beach the Greek inland of Corfu is in the distance and the heel of Italy is right across the Strait of Otranto and not a bad boat ride away. It’s definitely a different country. The poorest overall and an economic collapse within in the last thirty years. It suffered a nationwide Ponzi scheme bilking three quarters of the population to some degree. I’m told the interior is deserted of cars. Here on the other hand it’s lousy with early model Mercedes Benz’. They must come here from richer countries to live out the balance of their useful lives. They’re kept spotless. Within every short distance is a ‘lavazho’ where cars are detailed, mostly by the only men I’ve seen work at all. In the morning groups of threes and fours are sitting at cafes in front of half empty glasses of warm beer smoking hand rolled cigarettes. Not appearing unfriendly they just look out to the street and talk quietly.
More Muslim, less Christian. Loudspeakers on the minarets call to prayer five times a day. Somebody’s donkey grazes roadside and a herd of sheep are heading somewhere. Three wheeled hay carts take advantage of a newly paved road we shared. The pollution makes me sad. Albanians do not drink their own water. Drinking water is all bottled. Faucet water is not trusted for internal consumption. I imagine not only because of biological contaminants but chemical contamination too. Like Flint. Uncollected piles of household type garbage mounds and surrounds the roadside bins. The greasy rancid smell like the dumpster in the alley behind a restaurant starts before you see it and lingers after you pass it.
The sole construction method is wood forms filled with concrete and reinforcing bar. The whole building is created this one way, the column supports, the decks, stairs and walls. Poured all at once. Closing the structure in and the finish electrical and plumbing seem to then wait around for the shoemaker’s elves. But that’s when the big money has to be put up and investors have to decide to get serious or not. Mostly not, because the tourist economy is just not super strong compared to a better Croatia and is diluted with so many unfinished concrete bunkers waiting for tourist demand to push completion.
It could happen. Just probably not by happenstance. There is beauty. The Mediterranean is translucent clear blue. It’s not real hot and there will be rain.Read more