Argentina
Susques

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    • Day 221

      Straßenblockaden in der Provinz Jujuy

      June 24, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      Susques liegt auf 3.896m und soll der höchstgelegene Ort Argentiniens sein, der über eine asphaltierte Straße erreichbar ist. Da es schon Abend ist, beschließen wir über Nacht zu bleiben. Aufgrund weiterer Straßenblockaden wäre es heute ohnehin nicht mehr weiter gegangen.

      Am nächsten Morgen fahren wir ganz zuversichtlich los, doch schon am Ortsausgang ist wieder Schluss. Die RN52 wird von Indigenen blockiert. Uns wird gesagt, dass die Blockade um 16 Uhr, also in etwa 5 Stunden, für kurze Zeit geöffnet wird. Okay, nehmen wir eben die RN40, wir sind ja flexibel. Aber natürlich ist auch die versperrt. Blöd. Allerdings wussten wir ja, was uns hier im Norden Argentiniens aktuell erwartet.

      Die Protestierenden sind alle ganz friedlich und nett. Ab und zu wird getrommelt und um die Mittagszeit werden wir sogar mit einer Schale Bratkartoffeln und Brot versorgt. Wir haben Verständnis für den Ärger und die Proteste, zugleich ist es uns aber unverständlich, dass Leute in solch einer Höhe "festgehalten" werden. Zwar waren wir schon deutlich höher, aber nie tagelang. Allein dieser Gedanke löst bei Katja leichte Panik aus, was das Atmen nicht gerade erleichtert. Nach einer Tasse Tee geht's schon wieder besser, wir machen es uns hinten gemütlich und vertreiben uns die Wartezeit mit Filmschauen. Um 10 vor 4 können wir endlich weiterfahren.

      Die Ruta Nacional 40 nach San Antonio de los Cobres schüttelt uns kräftig durch, auch ein paar Furten müssen durchquert werden. Sie ist aber auch wieder herrlich schön und landschaftlich ganz anders als das, was wir eben noch in Chile gesehen haben. Auenland und Wilder Westen kommen uns in den Sinn. Die RN40 ist mit 5.301km die längste Nationalstraße Argentiniens. Seit 5 Monaten schon fahren wir immer wieder Teilstrecken dieser Straße. Mittlerweile haben wir die Provinz Salta erreicht.
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    • Day 67

      Susques village

      December 5, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We drove on to Susques. It was a small village with one main street. Everything was centered around this road. But, they had an atm and some restaurant boards. The atm was having quite a high usage charge over and above the conversion and/or withdrawal fee our banks would charge, so tried finding some other atms but there were none. So, in the end, we had to withdraw from this atm only since all transactions and services were in cash here.
      There was a nice 450 years old church in the village. We went in to see the inside. There were paintings on the walls and the alter looked very different than in typical churches. There were ladies and children inside singing prayers. It was a nice melodious singsong chanting.
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    • Day 67

      Lunch/Dinner at El Kaktus

      December 5, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We came out of the church and tried to find a restaurant. Most were closed right now and would open by 8 pm only. Finally, we found one (El Kaktus) on one of the only sode street in the village.
      Everything inside the restaurant was made from dried cactus wood.
      This was our first interaction with the locals on the Argentina side of the border and we realized tgat despite it being just 100 kms from Chile, the language usage, the Spanish, the menu and wjat you got in the meni was very different than from Chile. The Spanish used was a bit different, some of the words used for the same thing though synonyms were different. We couldn't understand a single dish in the menu. Eventually, we managed to figure out that they didn't have the concept of a day meal with soup, main dish and a dessert as in Chile. Here, everything had to be ordered separately and the main items on the menu were Empenadas, pastas and sandwiches. This, we found later was common across the whole of North Argentina. I ordered some vegetarian pasta that turned out to be ravioli like with tomato salsa and cheese.
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    • Day 68

      Morning at Pastos Chicos

      December 6, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      We woke up a bit late at around 9 am and then freshened up, had our breakfast at the restaurant, fueled up fully and then were ready to go on.
      Another interesting thing we noticed was the use of stickers everywhere. They had them on the restaurant door, windows and even the fuel pumps. This was some we didn't see in any other country till now but here, it was everywhere.
      We left at about 10:30 am.
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    • Day 121

      Day 119: First Salar

      May 7, 2016 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      We started this day by crossing the salar. Wich was gun when nino tried to step on it and sunk in till his knees. After a quick 50 km on the flats we had to do some climbing. Heavy headwinds made it really hard. But we made it to Susques and are ready for Paso Jama.Read more

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