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Albany, Walpole and Pemberton
  • Awesomes

Albany, Walpole and Pemberton

A 14-day adventure by Awesomes Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 20, 2022
  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    View from the lounge at our Airbnb
    Misery BeachStony Head, looking onto Point Possession and AlbanyWalking towards Peak HeadNegotiating the granite rocks at Peak HeadBoat ramp by the Whaling Station

    Day 2 Albany 6km

    February 21, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We arrived yesterday afternoon in Albany.
    On the way to Albany, we had rest stops in Williams, an antique shop in Kojunup and Sandalwood factory in Mt Barker.
    Airbnb accommodation has beautiful harbour views and we met up with some friends at Venice Pizzeria for a yummy Italian dinner.
    Whilst having a cuppa, Ruby burnt her foot with spilt hot tea. So we decided not to do a long walk tomorrow.

    We spent our day today at the Torndirrup National Park. We went to Misery Beach voted Best Beach in Australia 2022 by Tourism Australia. Had a look and a short walk at Stony Hill then a hike at Peak Head and a cool down at Whaling Cove.

    Misery Beach is a lovely stretch of beach flanked by boulders and a tiny island in front. It was too choppy, windy and cold to swim. There was only a car at the carpark and 2 people in the beach when we arrived at 9am. By the time we left just after 10am, the carpark was overflowing and the beach quickly filling up.

    Peak Head was a short but challenging walk. Turned out a lot longer than we anticipated. It took us 2 hours 15 mins to hike 4.8km. Lots of steep inclines with soft sand tracks but the amazing and magnificent views. A previous bushfire cleared the views as the new growth were still small. Vast views of Southern Ocean, Peak Head, coves and bays tracking to the summit of Peak Head.
    Ruby managed to start a conversation with a fellow tracker when we were almost at the summit. Due to the steep incline, her deep sharp breaths had her inhaling smoke from the cigarette he was holding. He was smoking pot/ weed / marijuana. Poor Ruby was rather dizzy for a few minutes after, but did not admit to feeling high.
    The swim at Whaling Cove after did well for recovery from the hike    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Day 3 Albany 11km

    February 22, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I decided to clock the days walking as a hike so that we can see how much walking we do today.
    We started our morning by walking to town for breakfast at Fredricks then walking back to the accomdation as Ruby forgot her mask.
    On the way back, we took a different route and Ruby found a walker friend to get ideas on the Mass Rock hike.
    After changing into bathers when we got back, we headed on the path to Middleton Beach. Ruby reckoned she saw a sign that said 800m to Middleton Beach, but I think that was the sign to the path to Middleton Beach.
    It took us 2hours15mins to get to Middleton Beach and 45mns to get back. We investigated every turn off and came across some pretty historical sites. We found 2 bunkers, an old haunted lighthouse keepers cottage with magnificent views of the King George Sound, a bronze busk of Baudin the Explorer, and Ataturk.
    Had a quick dip to cool off at the beach then made our way back.
    Finished up doing 20000 steps, 11km all up today.
    Might walk into town again for dinner, if the weather holds.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Vancouver Art Centre

    February 22, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After Middleton Beach, we visited Vancouver Arts Centre which occupies the building of the old Albany Hospital. The construction of the old hospital began in late 1887 to a design of the Government Architect George Temple Poole. "The architecture of the original Albany Cottage Hospital shows the influence of English vernacular (Victorian Tudor) and French country chateaux style. It was in continual use as a hospital right up to 1962 when a new hospital for Albany was built."

    There were 2 exhibitions on. The Miracle of Shorebird Migration has some sketches and paintings of different shorebirds by various artists. I was most impressed by RISE! a solo exhibition by Verity Byth.

    "RISE! uses stitching, domestic objects, and multimedia to create an interactive space for exploring how women rise in our country. It is inspired by Scott Morrison’s International Women’s Day speech in 2019, in which he stated “We want to see women rise. But we don’t want to see women rise only on the basis of others doing worse”.

    Exploring homelessness, work, and the reality of retirement, the pieces turn familiar items and ideas on their heads. A forensic examination of Australian women’s financial inequality, the exhibit is also a celebration of subversive stitching as an act of self-care and community."

    I am sure most wives and mothers, in fact most women would identify with the writings on the tags under the shopping bag and the hot water bottle holder. Emotional Labour and Mental Load is not merely unreognised and undervalued, it is so taken for granted. So lovely to see it portrayed.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    From Apex lookoutFrom Padre White lookout

    Mt Clarence and Luke Pen Trail 12.8km

    February 23, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Started the morning with a 5.21km hike up and around Mt Clarence before meeting a friend for breakfast at our favourite Albany cafe, Gourmandise & Co.

    We accessed Mt Clarence Trail from Burgoyne Road which we came upon on our walk back from breakfast yesterday. This immediately led us into a forested area. Following the trial on maps.me, we walked along the water pipeline before taking a turn which went along the tall razor wire fence. It was a gradual ascent and not difficult hiking except for some loose gravel underfoot. We soon left the forest and met with a steep ascend along the bitumen road leading to Apex Lookout. This vantage presented a stunning panorama of Royal Princess Harbour, Middleton Beach and Emu Point, King George Sound and the Southern Ocean beyond. We continued on Apex Drive to the ANZAC Desert Mounted Corp Memorial which was accessed by a set of wide steps. Further along was the Padre White lookout which astonished me with views than rivalled Apex Lookout.

    Descent from the summit was via Padre White Trail to Hill Street and Earl Lane. It was a rather guilty free breakfast of creamy cheesy baked eggs at Gourmandise, washed down with coffee and the compulsory (for me) chocolate croissant.

    Today's Luke Pen Trail was a hobbit there and back trail, 7.6k.m We did the whole loop a few years back with our dear and much-missed Singapore friends. Today's hike was done with another dear friend from Malaysia who is now making Albany her home. Gorgeous views of the Kalgan River along this whole track, with glimpses of farmland and 2 (or was it 3) houses. Also saw some sheep and 2 alpacas in the distant paddocks. I had butterflies followed me for some of the trail, convincing me that fairies reside nearby.

    It was about 3.15pm by the time we for to the car, and 3 hungry tummies went in search of food. First stop, winery Monty's Leap. Kitchen closed at 2.30pm, but we were treated to a free taste of some wine. Next stop, Strawberry Farm, and that kitchen was also closed but we could have the cakes in the display cabinet. Needing something more substantial, we ended up at Hooked in Middleton Beach, much deserving of being repeatedly voted Best Fish and Chips.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Heading to Walpole via Denmark

    February 24, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We slept in and woke with a start as we were suppose to walk to breakfast at Gourmandise, but we drove instead. Ruby had her fix of ham and cheese croissants and pastries. After breakfast, we headed out for Denmark with stops at the Albany Town Hall, the Co-op gallery, Op shop and then to Monty's Leap for a fabulous lunch. We were too late for lunch yesterday but when we returned today, the sommelier remembered us and welcomed us warmly like old friends. Wonderful food, scallops cooked to perfection, duck confit made into croquettes were divine but what stood out was sambal brusselsprouts. Makes one an immediate brusselsprouts convert.
    We got to Denmark and headed for the Op shop by the church and the Coop to replenish our supply of Seville marmalade. The RiverFront Gallery was next where we met the artist Alison Clarke who started the gallery 10 years ago to showcase local artists' works. We saw landscape works by Hilly Couture, who we bumped into when she was painting in Cape Range National Park, Exmouth. The Old Butter Factory Gallery was delightful as always.
    We headed to Walpole and settled in for the night.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Sappers Bridge towards Tree Top 10.4km

    February 25, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We had arranged for transport to pick us from Sappers Bridge where we were to drop our car and take us to South Coast Highway so we could hike one way on the Bibbulman Track. Ruby discovered she had a slight fever, and so the long hike and transport was cancelled. However, she was insistent on visiting her Tall Trees, so we went to Sappers Bridge with a plan to walk 3km towards Tree Top walk (in the drizzle), and then return. Ruby suddenly felt all better, so we hiked till just after 5km when I had to insist we desist and return. Early in the walk, Ruby tried to scale a log and strained her quadriceps. She refused to admit injury but did allow me to put a knee brace on. Somehow, I managed to get blamed for removing her from the forest and cause pain to her knee. Apparently, there was no pain during the whole hike, but pain and swelling only happened once we arrived at the accommodation.

    During the walk, Ruby found her Trilogy Trees and insisted we sit on the damp forest floor in the middle of the trees. I must admit that it was rather magical. Shortly after, we passed a group of about 8 elderly ladies charging towards Boxall Road.

    It was a lovely walk, and I'm now going to treat Ruby's knee as I'm sure she'll want to hike again tomorrow.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    Looking through the Sheok spindle leaves
    One of the giants, Karri Tree, Eucalyptus DiversicilorA warty burl ridden Tingle tree, Eucalyptus jacksoniiTingle giant shedding bark

    Tree Top towards Sappers Bridge 13.1km

    February 26, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Plan was to start the Bibbulmun track at Tree Top Walk, and walk to where we turned back from our walk yesterday. This was a hike through the Valley of the Giants.
    It was a much more undulating hike with longer sections of up and down. Not too steep but enough to significantly ncrease the heart rate.
    Scenery was beautiful. The weather was ideal for walking.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    Gary Muir
    Walpole inletGiants Campsite, a typical hut on the Bibbulmun trackSleeping platform in the hutTingle tree

    WOW

    February 27, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    WOW Walpole Wilderness Ecocruises is exactly that. The cruise takes you around the Nornalup marine park with a hyper, super informative skipper Gary Muir. By the time you finish the cruise, you think that Walpole is the centre of the world. He stresses that there is North and South Poles and then there's Walpole. He gives you an intensive information on the historical, biological, geographical, chemical, political and conservation links to Walpole. From Russian espionage, to David Attenborough conservation of the planet, Besides the beautiful scenery, bird life, fish spotting, there was his famous tingle cake too!
    We were so hyped up after the cruise, we went on a relaxing walk amongst the tall trees to unwind after lunch at our accommodation.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    Obscured view at summit of Mt Clare
    Spiral trunk of Karri treeBig burl on Tingle treeRegenerating burnt Tingle treeJohn Rate Lookout

    John Rate Lookout to Mt Clare 8.6km

    February 28, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We woke this morning with no intention of doing a walk. We had planned to sleep in, have a long lazy breakfast, pack and leave for Pemberton. However, by 830am, we were finished with breakfast and to while away time, watched the last bits of a movie on Netflix. Only 10 mins into the movie, Ruby declared that the movie was too depressing. We decided to pack up and checkout early so we could do a short 6km hike starting at John Rate Lookout and see where 6km would take us. The hike was so lovely amongst the shivering sheok, tangled Tingle that we continued further. We got to the start of the Nuyts Wilderness tracks, and decided to continue onto the summit of Mt Clare before turning back. When we returned, Ruby, who was in front of me, came upon a man who was butt naked. He had his hands in front of his bits, and said to her, "Nice day for a walk." She was looking elsewhere, then noticed his lack of clothing as she replied. She quickened her pace and we got away from him as he apologised. Further on, Ruby thought that maybe we should have checked that he was ok. So I called the Walpole Visitors Centre to report the encounter. I told the lady on the phone that we did not feel threatened, but were worried about the man, or other hikers or visitors to that area. The weather warmed up during our return hike, and the March flies were buzzing around us. They are huge with long proboscis and very bitey. The walk back took half the time as we could not stop for fear of being bitten. The Walpole policeman called me back to report that they had found the man. He was harmless, and just liked to walk naturally in nature, "nothing sexual", they reported. He was told to do so in more secluded areas in future.
    The drive to Pemberton was uneventful.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Rosebank Cottage to Cascades 18.9km

    March 1, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Our gorgeous little accommodation, Rosebank Cottage is at the doorstep of the Gloucester National Park where the world's tallest climable tree, the Gloucester Tree resides. The plan was to walk the 1km from cottage to said tree then follow the Bibbulmun to Cascades 7km, and back. However, both of us did not get proper walking directions to the tree, and we got lost. We could not find the tree, but did somehow get onto the Bib further along the track on Burma Road. Another folly for the day was my decision to not take raincoats despite a forecast for rain. The forecast will be inaccurate every other day but today, so it rained. And when the sky stopped raining, the tree canopy continued . Both of us had our usual moisture-wicking quick-drying hiking pants and shirts on. However, it stopped there. The undergarments were cotton and lacked the above properties. Walking with wet undergarments as the top layer was drying in between rain showers was certainly one of the most uncomfortable experiences of hiking. Wet, sloppy, sloshy, saggy undertheres causes one to walk with a strange gait, using muscles that should never be awaken. Maybe Mr Walk Naturally is onto something. Fortunately, it's still summer and although we were wet, we were not too cold. Also, the rain kept the pesky March flies away. We did still come across 5 Tiger Snakes.

     This is so far the most challenging track this trip. Long steep climbs and long steep descents along tracks littered with roly-poly gumnut. Vistas were breathtaking. The areas of Walpole and Pemberton are our favourite parts of the Bibbulmun so far.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    View from our table at Hidden River Estate
    Almond Halva TiramisuWild blackberries which we sampledOld Sheoak TreeAccommodation Rosebank CottageBig Brook Dam which we found due to a wrong turn

    Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree to Warren C

    March 2, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Apart from being a hiker's paradise, Pemberton has some gastronomic delights. We sampled one last night, Jaspers Pemberton Restaurant and Whiskey Bar. Serves were big, and prices reasonable given the plush old-wordly but cosy interior. We had to have our first explore into the world of whiskey with a Whiskey Flight 101, specially curated paddle of 3 whiskeys for the whiskey uninitiated. We had Dalwhinnie, Auchentoshan, and Glenfiddich. The paddle came with water, a pipette for the water, and ice. We had to first sniff the whiskey with an open mouth so the aromas would hit the back of our throats. Then try each whiskey neat, then with 1-2 drops of water to open the flavours, and then with ice to close the flavours. To my surprise, I did get how water opened the flavours of each whiskey, but I thought ice just made it cold. It closed nothing for me. Grace's favourite was Auchentoshan, and I'm still not sure which one mine was. I think I need to taste more whiskeys.

    This afternoon, we ate at Hidden River Estate. We shared the duck liver pate entree, which was just as nice as it was last October. Outstanding was the Almond Halva Tiramisu, which we shared. I have noticed that most strangely, my appetite seems to have an inverse relation to the lengths and frequency of hikes; the longer and more frequent the hikes, the less hungry I am. I had no problem gorging at Gourmandise in Albany when our hikes were short. I have read about this most peculiar phenomenon in personal recounts of long-hikers and end-to-enders. These people hike 30+km a day, everyday, for weeks. What hiking I do is nothing, yet this strange phenomena, especially for a piggy like me. Maybe it's just my body adjusting to a healthier way of being. If that is so, it is just another reason to take more hiking holidays.

    We did do a little hike today. We had to stay back at the accommodation to attempt a booking at Rottnest Island. Bookings for November opened this morning at 8.30am. I logged into the website at about 8.15am, and when booking opened, I had over 2000 people ahead of me in the queue. We did not get dates we wanted, so November's holiday will not be in Rottnest. Anyway, we only had 3 hours between disappointing Rottnest booking attempt and lunch. So it was a short 8.2km hike from The Dave Evans Bicentennial tree to a bit past the Warren campsite. The Warren River National Park is my favourite part of Pemberton. I will admit to looking with envy at the one tent in the campsite, despite the rain . And yes, we did have our raincoats.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler
    Foot spa ahhhhhh
    Steeeeeep sectionMushroom logJarrah forestKarri forest

    Cascades to Warren campsite 12km

    March 3, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had aspirations to do a long hike today as it is our "last" day that we can. It'll be too hot for a long hike tomorrow, and the next accomdation we are going to does not have the luxury of a bath. It is very restorative to soak in an epsom salt bath at the end of a strenuous hike. We were planning to complete a 24km to return hike from Cascades to Warren campsite. When we embarked on the walk the terrain was unrelenting. We were either walking inclines or declines. There was not a flat section in the first 6km. Some sections that were long and steep. The gumnuts did not help, causing us to slip and slide, and threatening to turn ankles. Walking amongst the tall Karri trees was still magical. With the rain gone and the sun shining through dappled clouds, birdlife was in full display. Lovely colourful cockatoos, tiny little round birds and butterflies accompanied us on the walk. Even though it was so beautiful with the rustling leaves, at about the 6km mark we decided to turn back shortly after Ruby took a tumble. She had no idea what happened or how it happened, but I heard a yelp and turned around to find Ruby tumbling a couple of metres down the hill. Surprisingly, she was uninjured, and all she complained about was still having to walk down the hill. She thought that if she took a tumble, it could at least take her all the way to the bottom instead of still having to negotiate a steep slope with tricky gumnuts underfoot.

    A treat awaited us at the end of the walk, back at Cascades. Instead of walking on proper paths and a bridge to cross the Cascades, we hop, skipped and jumped from rock to rock to get to the other side. Ruby then found a 30cm diameter hole where the water rushed over the rocks and made a natural foot spa. She found great relief for her osteoarthritic big toe.

    It is dinner at Treehouse Tapas in town tonight. We enjoyed dinners there the other 2 times we were in Pemberton, so I'm looking forward to it.    Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Chocolates, Burger, Big Brook Dam 7.63km

    March 4, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We were supposed to be heading back to Perth today, but decided to stay another night in Pemberton. As this invoked changing accommodation since Rosebank was booked for the weekend, we decided the effort be rewarded with breakfast at Southern Forest Chocolate Company. The lovely young lady there has just moved to Pemberton from Perth. The host of current accommodation, Tranquility in Trees, also recently relocated from Perth. I feel the Universe sending us a strong message. As breakfast was only a chocolate truffle and a hot drink, mocha for me and espresso for Grace, we immediately proceeded to an early lunch of a shared burger at Source Kitchen. We ambled along the very civilised bitumen path around Big Brook Dam, with a detour to look at the Arboretum. It will be dinner at Chefingo's tonight, the well reviewed restaurant of Forest Lodge Retreat.Read more

  • AwesomesAlbany, Walpole and PembertonTraveler

    Home

    March 5, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Dinner at Chefingo's last night was average.
    We went to the tiny Manjimup Farmers Market on the way home and bought some white peaches and biodynamic rye flour and triticale flour for Ruby's sourdough bread. Drive home was uneventful. It is about 10degC warmer in Perth than what we've had over the fortnight.Read more

    Trip end
    March 5, 2022
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