Bolivia
Laguna Hedionda

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23 travelers at this place

  • Day26

    Salar de Uyuni

    December 5, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Planned to do the trip with Darja and Cyrill - they needed to cancel the tour at 5am as their stomach decided to not completely digest the healthy clean Bolivian food 🥘 🤢
    So we spontaneously meet Caro and Marc (also from 🇨🇭) in Uyuni in the Salty Desert tour office and decide to do the 3 day journey through the mysterious Salt Flats together, with no shower, and spare water access.... Amazing landscapes were crossing our path... one of our favorite tour in life! 😍 and celebrated my 29th birthday in the flats 🥴😂🥳Read more

  • Day22

    Volcanoes and lagoons!

    October 7, 2016 in Bolivia

    Day two of our Perla de Bolivia tour.

    Today we woke up at Ajencha feeling cosy and warm, under our many layers of blankets, and in the relatively warm room when you consider the outside temperature. We headed for breakfast at 6:30, so not too early, and enjoyed some strange but quite nice warm, puffed up, fried bread type pastries with dulche de leche or dark honey. Once again, quite impressed with this place.

    We headed to the jeep and set off to the first location of the day. We were driving through not quite dry salt today and it was like a weird mix between snow and sand, pretty cool to drive on and the sunrise was awesome too, a lovely orange sky provided a backdrop to the mountains and volcanoes around us.

    The first stop was a huge and flat desert of what was once a massive coral reef. The rocks were razor sharp, evidence of their origin as coral, and the place is nicknamed 'Valley of Soldiers' by locals because of the way the rocks all stand leaning the same way, like soldiers standing for duty. I imagine this is a result of the once present ocean currents, shaping the now skeletal reef. It's so incredible to think this place, now 4000m above sea level, was once part of the sea bed! We were commenting on how peaceful a place this was too, silence except for us, no birds, no traffic, no planes up ahead. It is also cold...very, very cold!Knowing the history too made it quite serene when you stopped to just take it in and you could just imagine the rocks long ago, full of colour with fishes swimming around them.

    After a quick 'Inca Toilet' mission, trying not to get corsl scratches on your bum, we headed back to the jeep and moved on to the next stop. This time we got to over 4700m, to see the active Ollague Volcano that towered over the landscape. From the viewpoint, which includes lava formations and some very weird round, green plants, that look a bit like coral, you can see the steam and gases rising from the volcano into the sky. An awesome sight, especially as I have never seen an active volcano with smoke plumes before. Once again the beauty of the place is astounding.

    From here we drove through more desert and rocky landscape, through the trail of the three lagoons - Cañapa, Hedionda and Chiarkhota. The scenery was, again, amazing and on route to the first lagoon there was real evidence of the once powerful volcanoes and their eruptions. Large rocks littered the area around the surrounding volcanoes, the slopes of which appeared sheered and peeled, from the power of the explosions that tore them apart. Further out from this were smaller rocks, red in colour instead of the grey and sandy colour of the others, and these looked much more like solidified molten lava. They were folded, as though cooled whilst moving and had a very different texture. Pretty spectacular and also a reminder of just how powerful this planet is. Oh, and not to forget that we also passsed wild lamas, vicunia and even an ostrich on the way! Andean ostriches...who knew!

    At the first lagoon we were right on the edge of the water and the ground was a strange mix of the salt and ice and sand. You would sink in places that looked solid, not too deep, but it was weird in texture...a bit like ash. The contrast of the water, against the volcanoes behind the lagoon was stark. The colours of the lakes and surrounding land were quite something too...whites, reds, sandy yellows and greens. Oh, and to top it all off, there were flamingos!!!! So close too and feeding in the water. Bolivia stuns us again.

    At the second lagoon, we stopped and climbed atop a large rock for a view of the whole lagoon. It is tiring work getting up these normally not so steep ledges, but it was worth it. What a view. A glorious lagoon in the middle of desert landscape and once again...flamingos! So strange seeing them in this landscape when you normally imagine them in the tropics.

    We headed next to a place called the Desert of Siloli, where there is 'the tree of rock' amongst other cool rock formations that project out of the sand dunes. In all honesty, it was more the landscape around the rocks that made this for me. The formations were pretty awesome, but Brimham Rocks in England has a more impressive selection I think. As I said though, awesome landscape and a bit surreal in the sense that these rocks do seem to have just appeared there, dotted about so randomly. They were also fun for a bit of climbing.

    Here we thought we would make use of some 'proper' toilets too...wow. Did not realise that a toilet could smell quite so bad. Opened the door and immediately walked away. Absolutely no way. Inca style (outdoor) would be luxury in comparison.

    We jumped back in the jeep instead, which provided nice shelter from the crazy wind that was blasting our faces. So glad to have a buff scarf!

    Next stop was the the third lagoon on this trail, where we also stopped for lunch. There were two volcanoes either side of the lagoon, which was really long. The perspective though is so hard to jusdge here. You look and think you could probanly run over to the volcanos edge, and then you see a Jeep on the other side of the lagoon that looks the size of an ant, and realise it would probably take a day. So crazy! Lunch was some delicious chicken with veg and pasta, which went down a treat. Another great spot for a picnic! Don't think future picnics will ever quite live up to these ones, but we can try!

    Next up was the national reserve and the Laguna Colorada (Red Lagoon). We got our tickets and stamped our passports (oh, and I had my first experience of a self pour toilet flush...yay! Seriously excited for a normal flush and to put toilet paper down the loo again...it's the little things) and then carried on to the lagoon.

    This was so impressive. A huge red lagoon, once again with a backdrop of volcanoes. Driving towards it you couldn't help but stare out of the window, and then we parked up to walk alongside the lagoon. There were so many flamingos here and they were very pink from the red algae, part of the reason for the lagoons colour.

    The ground beside the lagoon was a mix of wet salt and some plant life. Not sure we were supposed to walk on it but our guide took us this way. We noticed other people staying off it later and so me and Rob decided to move off it just in case, we dont want to ruin the local wildlife! It was really amazing though to be so close to the flamingos and to see such an interesting looking lagoon with so much colour. There were the small white, borax salt 'islands', streaking through the lagoon, the greens of the plants, the reds of the algae ridden water, the yellows of the mountains and then the blue of the sky. So beautiful. There were lamas too, with bright fabrics tied round their ears, drinking by the waters edge. So many people wanting that lama selfie, but the lamas were not so keen!

    We stayed here a little while, it was really cold and the walk back up to the car was uphill and tiring, but we got yet another awesome view from this new vantage point. Richard also stubbled across a lama carcass...nice.

    This was the last stop of the day before heading to our accommodation, which was just up the road. We were told it would be basic and boy were they right.
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  • Day11

    Laguna Hedionda

    October 10, 2017 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We drove on a bit further on the high altitude dusty road tikk we reached Laguna Hedionda.

    Laguna Hedionda (Spanish for "stinking lake") is a saline lake in the Nor Lípez Province, Potosí Department in Bolivia. It is notable for various migratory species of pink and white flamingos. We saw many flocks of them feeding all over the lake.

    Laguna Hedionda is one of the nine small saline lakes in the Andean Altiplano. It lies at an altitude of 4,121 metres (13,520 ft), with an area of 3 square kilometres (1.2 sq mi). Salt flats and bofedales (wetlands) are spread over the periphery of the lake. It is in a very remote area where human habitation is negligible.
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  • Day11

    Laguna Hedionda flamingos

    October 10, 2017 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Laguna Hedionda is quite a big lake. We spent quite sometime driving along the edge of the lake and stopping at various points. The mountains around and the colors of the lake and sky along with the bright red of the flamingos made it a very memorable moment.

  • Day16

    Laguna Hitionda

    December 8, 2017 in Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Durch die Feldwege die teilweise mit großen Steinen übersäht sind kommt man an vielen Stellen nur Langsam voran. Den Reifenspuren nach, fahren auch viele Fahrer ihre eigenen Strecken. Angekommen an der Lagune haben wir viele Flamingos gesehen die in der Lagune ihr Futter suchen. Leider ist durch die Wasserknappheit in den letzten Jahren ein Großteil der Lagune ausgetrocknet. Wenn das so weiter geht in den nächsten Jahren, werden viele Lebensformen in der Lagune sterben.Read more

  • Day123

    Southern Altiplano Pt.1

    August 19, 2018 in Bolivia

    Wider Erwarte hemmer hüt znacht vorzüglich uf 4'200m gschlafe! Es het zwar einiges brucht bis mer endlich warm becho hend (Pulli, Leggins, Schlafsack, drü Wulledechene und es dünns Duvet) - aber denn hemmer mollig warm bis am Morge gschlafe, wo de Surstoff i eusem 3er Zimmer scho langsam knapp worde isch...
    Wie scho geschter hemmer hüt ei schöni Landschaft nach de andere derfe gseh, zerscht numal dLaguna Colorada vunere andere Perspektive, denn de Arbol de Piedra (das sind vum Wind skurril gformti Steiblöck), dRuta de Joyas mit de drü Seeä Laguna Honda, Laguna Hedionda und Laguna Canapa. Derbi hemmer au vil Fauna gseh, allne vora Lamas mit farbige Pompoms umd Ohre (bechemeds bi traditionelle "Enfloramiento de Llamas" Fäscht), Viscacha (en Art chlini, beigi Chüngel mit langem Schwanz) und wieder vil Flamencos, dismal vil nöcher. Btw töned die rosa Vögel chli wie Delfine :)
    Nacheme churze Fotostopp zum de aktiv Vulkan Ollague zbewundere, simmer zum Salar de Chiguana und hend da dIsebahntrasse überquert. SIsebahnnetz isch erscht in de 70er baut worde, hauptsächlich zum Rohstoff zwüsche Bolivie, Chile und Argentinie ztransportiere. Gmäss eusem Guide Simon liidet Bolivie zimli drunder, as sie kei Meerzuegang (meh) hend und somit türi Zöll und Stüre mend zahle, wenn sie dHafä in Chile oder Peru bruuchet. Früener het dRegion rund um Atacama und Calama zu Bolivie ghört, doch Chile het das Land nachem Chrieg vor ca. 150 Jahr für sich beasprucht.
    Bevor mer ins Refugio sind, het eus de Simon nu erchlärt, wie Quinoa apflanzt und gerntet wird. Mer nimmt es paar Quinoa Sämli (sgliche womer au isst) und setzt sie im September ohni Wasser ines Loch - am beschte grabt mer das Loch vu Hand, wel mit de Traktore werdi zvil Erde vum Wind erodiert. Nach es paar Täg erschint scho serschte Sprössling. Denn laht mer dPflanze bis im März/Apil la wachse, in dere Zit mend dLamas igsperrt werde, damits nid alles furtfressed. Denn schnidet mer die Stude nöch vum Bode mitere Sichle ab, bindet Bündel und stellt sie x-förmig zum Tröchne uf. Nach drü Wuche chamer dErnte denn is Dorf hole, det werded dQuinoa Sämli miteme grosse Sieb vum Spreu trennt - die Spreu brucht mer denn als Fueter für Lamas, Alpacas und Esel. Als letschte Schritt laht mer dSämli nu vum Wind la "reinige", daderzue gaht mer an windige Dorfrand und laht langsam dSämli la aberiesle: de Wind treit die liechte Staubteili furt und am Bode blibed nur die suubere Sämli. Es git fascht 10 verschiedeni Arte vu Quinoa, jedes eignet sich für was anderes: für Suppe, Hauptspis oder Getränk. Die beschte Sämli bhaltet mer aligs für dErnti im kommende Jahr und die schlechtischti Qualität wird ans Vieh verfüettered.
    Die zweit Nacht vu euser Tour hemmer in San Juan verbracht, imene Hostal de Sal. DWänd sind mit Salz verputzt und de Bode isch mitere dicke Schicht Salz bestreut gsi - fascht scho Strand-Feeling! Weniger tropisch sind derfür dTemperature gsi, obwohl mer etz "nur" nu uf 3'750m sind gsi... obwohl mer numal drü Wulledeckene becho hend, hets um einiges länger duuret zum warm werde... de Sämy het im Primaloft und dMartina mit drü paar Leggins gschlafe :o uf dr Suechi nach Wärmi het sie de Sämy ziemlich an Wand drängt :)
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  • Day27

    2 yderlige dage i Bolivia

    August 3, 2018 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Efter saltørkenen havde vi 2 ekstra dage med begivenheder ved laguner og i en nationalpark.
    På papiret lyder det mega fedt, og der var da også meget at se. Det lå måske bare lidt langt fra hinanden...
    Vi så flamingoer! Og mange af dem. Faktisk så mange man ikke gad kigge efter dem til sidst. 6 timers bumlet køretur senere og så var vi ved en sten, der med lidt god vilje ligner et træ, 6 timer mere og så var vi ved en geyser (Camilla var kun ude af bilen i 2 minutter for at posere, fordi det var så utrolig koldt).
    Dagen blev noget bedre af at vi allesammen fik os en burger med spicy lamapølse!
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Laguna Hedionda

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