Reset search
It Started As A 2 Week Cruise
  • Bron Plaskowski
Dec 2024 – Mar 2025

It Started As A 2 Week Cruise

A 71-day adventure by Bron Read more
+3
FollowInsightsCalendarShareShareBucket list
Newest first
  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    The owl and the pussycat comes to mind.
    No planning permission, no council tax and no sewage billsDried sap from a rubber tree.Dried and drunk like a tea this plant is hallucinogenic, took the photo just for reference!This caterpillar seemed luminescent.The tarantula was as big as your hand but apparently only a young one.The forest was full of mahogany, rosewood and teak trees.Always fancied myself as Tarzan, swinging on vines in the jungle.Recovering from our morning hike.For such large wild animals they were remarkably gentle.The floating houses are built on huge tree trunks to provide the buoyancy.We had literally been in the water with the dolphins 10 mins early. The weather came in so fast.Never seen her look so pleased with herself.It was so dark, really difficult to get a decent picture with a phone.Our guide must have had small hands, the alligator looks much bigger than when I held him.Were playing until gone 10pm, they might be Brazilian but I reckon I could have given them a game.

    A Day In The Jungle

    January 22 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today we had a full on rainforest experience, all 11 hours of it. Which after the hour drive to get to the village kicked off with a boat ride along the Rio Negro, to a point in the forest.

    We then set off on what was to be 2hrs 40mins of hiking, in sweltering, mosquito infested conditions, with at times challenging terrain, just what we'd all signed up for. Though perhaps with the exception of Carol's sister who only had hip surgery 4 months ago. It was tougher than we had expected, though she soldiered on womanfully. Towards the end of the hike it did rain for 15 mins but we couldn't have got any wetter anyway. In fact probably felt drier because we weren't sweating as much.

    After a very nice fish lunch on a floating house it was off to spend time in the river with the some of the local pink dolphins. The dolphins are wild but know if they turn up for the tourists they are guaranteed a fish supper. There is a platform around 4ft deep that you initially stand on and before you know it or see anything you can feel something large in the dark waters below brushing up against you and then another from the other side. Rather disconcerting at first but as they continued to mill around, you could start to stroke their backs and relax a bit. Though as I found out you don't want to be floating behind one when the fish is on offer and they flick their tail to get some upward leverage and one came very close to catching me in the nether regions.

    After having to wait 30 mins for some bad weather to pass through we then went piranha fishing. A stick, nylon line, a hook and some bait it couldn't be any simpler. However, all I managed to do for 45 mins was feed piranha. They somehow managed to nibble all the bait off the hook without me snagging them, time after time, after time. Carol managed to catch one though which made it all worthwhile. We may have to review our hunter gatherer roles.

    Then finally as it got dark we went looking for alligators, a rather eerie experience. Seeing their eyes reflecting red when the searchlight hit them, as they lay near the bank. Then instead of going the other way, heading straight for them, that was a bit spooky. We did this several times but they all swam away. Until at one point close to the bank in shallow water the guide jumped out the boat, grabbed a 2ft alligator and brought it back into the boat asking if anyone wanted to hold it. So I thought I'd have a go. I was surprised how warm it was, how soft it's underbelly was and how relaxed it was. After holding it for 20 seconds or so it suddenly whipped it's tail violently from side to side which took me and everyone around me by suprise. Fortunately my reaction was to grip tighter rather than let it go running around the boat. It did make me realise I prefer my alligator interactions to be me holding them rather than them holding me!    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    On the approach to Bogota airport.
    With our delay voucher we bought some Japanese food, the spicy edamame beans were the best I've had.

    A Quick Flight To Quito

    January 23 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It was gone 8:30pm when we got in last night from the day in the rainforest and then by the time we had eaten, had a last drink with Carol's sister as she is flying home today, it was 11ish before I got to bed. Not too bad normally, but we had a 4am flight to catch, so getting ready for a 2am cab meant I got 2 hour 15 minutes sleep.

    So got the cab ok, checked in fine, then going through immigration noticed they'd given us the wrong boarding pass for our connecting flight in Bogota. So I checked my emails and realised they hadn't made a mistake. They'd messaged me 3 minutes after getting into the cab that the first flight would be late and the 1 hour 25 minute transfer would now be an 8 hour transfer.

    Frustrating, but luckily we had nothing planned today. We were going to take it easy today, however, we hadn't anticipated a leisurely day at the airport. We did get into a lounge for £16 each which helped. You're only normally allowed in 3 hours before your flight but they took pity on us. We definitely got our money's worth though, in gin and tonic alone.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    When I saw this queue I thought, I'm really glad we've already done everything online!!
    Now I really have seen it all at the airport.Just off the plane.Luggage slide than carousel.The airport is on an island that was a US base during WWII.These boats ferry you across the channel to Santa Cruz, where we are staying. For one dollar eachwaySo inconsiderate, the bloke on the phone is taking up a seal bed.The skin of a lime, the colour of an orange and the taste of a lemon.A youngster suckling, he didn't seem keen to share though.This little fella was happy basking on the pier.Sculpture made up of waste picked up from the sea.Sculpture made up of waste picked up from the sea.Just how I feel after a bit of exercise these days.

    First Day In Galapagos

    January 24 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our last very early start for a few days. Even though it was a 7am domestic flight we still gave ourselves almost 2 hours. Just as a well, as despite having already checked in we were told we had to join a queue of 30 people to pay for an entry card to the Islands. Then get our bags scanned and have a zip tag added. Then to a terminal to go through half the check in again to get our luggage tags printed. The whole process took about 45 mins and it certainly woke us up, not used to thinking at this time of the morning.

    We landed on Baltra, an island without too much other than the airport. So this meant a bus to the harbourside, a ferry across the channel to Santa Cruz and then a taxi to the other end of the island, Puerto Ayora.

    We spent the afternoon going round several places selling tours, to book a few trips up for the coming days. I'd read it was significantly cheaper booking on the island than doing so before you went. You do risk trips being booked up, but fortunately we didn't really find that and were able to save about 40% based on the online prices we'd seen.

    Then afterwards we walked to the Charles Darwin Research Station, a conservation facility looking at various issues affecting the Islands. They have a giant tortoise breeding programme but when we got there were told that you needed to have organised a guide to actually go and see them. Disappointing, but hopefully there will be other opportunities to see them elsewhere.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    He had been having a salty bird bath in one of the puddles.
    Our stricken vessel.Budgets must be tight if that upturned dinghy is the best the Equadorian navy can muster.Our minibus on the island.A stone head carved about 80 years ago, looks like Burt from Sesame Street.These sea lions think they own the place.A lizard I think!We soonest get back to our room until after 10pm, over 15hrs since we left it.

    Floreana Island

    January 25 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Today we took a day trip to Floreana, an island of 150 people to the south of Santa Cruz, but was actually the first to be settled in the Galapagos. We didn't have a great start as the motor boat we were on had an engine that kept cutting out every 30 seconds. After the 6th or 7th time it had done this, they arranged for a replacement boat which took about 30 mins.

    So after around an 1hr 45mins we arrived on the island to be greeted by red backed marine iguanas, the only place in the Galapagos Islands you can find them. Although they're called red backed they are also black and green at the same time. Iguanas are the ultimate posers, once in position there don't move unless they really have to.

    We did an hour's hike and came across a group of tortoises that will soon be released across the island in an attempt to reintroduce them to Floreana. They became extinct on the island around 200 years ago. Whaling and pirate ships would stop at the island to stock up on fresh water and they would also take the giant tortoises to eat or even sell. Apparently tortoises can go a long time without food or water so they were ideal for fresh meat.

    After lunch there was an opportunity to go snorkeling but the nose piece on goggles don't seal properly if you have a beard so I gave it a miss. Apparently the water wasn't too warm anyway. I found a hammock in the shade, overlooking the water, that was good enough for me.

    It had been a long day so we went straight to one of the bars we'd had a drink in yesterday for a quick couple before we went back to the room to change. About 30 mins later a kiwi and Argentinian couple from today's trip joined us for one. Which turned into four and then dinner, where we were joined by another couple from the trip from Canada and Ecuador. It was like a sub committee of the United Nations, but very enjoyable.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Could have spent all day day here, the perfect spot with a beer in your hand.
    Just what benches are made for.A blue footed booby and Galapagos penguins.A blue footed booby.A frigate bird.A white tipped reef shark.The turtle was eating away at something on the rocks.Sea lion pups.In or out, he couldn't make his mind up.Everything seems to be built for their convenience.A popular spot.Must have been some wave that dumped this boat at the side of the road.Was a beautiful location.Was just the perfect spot.A heron, maybe?Definitely taking his breeding duties seriously.Great if you can get it!Flat topped tortoises have longer legs and neck to reach higher vegetation. A sort of giraffe reallyVery clear about what they do at the tortoise centre.A frigate bird, apparently it can fly for upto 14 days.

    Isabella Island

    January 26 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Slept really well last night but could have done with more as we had to be at the pier for 6:20am to take the 1hr 50min boat trip to Isabella Island. I normally can't sleep on trains, buses, boats, but I dozed on and off the whole way. Really glad we haven't booked anything tomorrow, I need to catch up on some sleep.

    In the morning we did a boat trip around the lagoon and saw a colony of the northern most penguins in the world. The only penguins in the Northern hemisphere, albeit only just in the Northern hemisphere. Also for the first time we saw blue footed boobys, frigate birds, a reef shark, stingray and turtles.

    We had lunch at restaurant in Isabella overlooking a beautiful long, sandy and almost deserted beach. The nicest spot I've seen in our time in Galapagos.

    In the afternoon we finally got to see some giant tortoises who were part of a breeding programme. Including a few tortoises who were taking their reproductive duties quite seriously. Apparently they can take between 2 to 3hrs to do the business, I could see why it takes so long, because there didn't seem to be too much action happening while we were watching. Maybe he was shy.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    The mirror never lies!!!
    The 1.25 mile path to the beach. I've never seen a cactus tree before.The marine iguanas really liked this beach.A huge expanse of white sand and no shade.You don't see the marine iguanas moving very often, they are all about minimising effort.An old piece of rope used as a traffic calming hump.Replica of a barrel post box, passing sailors would pick up mail for the next place they would visitAt home this would be vanilla and strawberry, here it's coconut and guava, very nice.Not sure this staircase in our apartment would pass building control back home.Dozens of red crabs, these were on all the islands we visited.Baby marine iguanas, I never realised they could sunbathe on an almost sheer incline.The fish was very salty but I still managed to clear my plate.Our favourite bar, I lost count how many red fruit gin and tonics we had here over the last few daysIt seems baby lizards also like red fruit gin and tonics, fortunately this wasn't my glass.

    A Relaxing Yet Busy Day

    January 27 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I was looking forward to a lay in today but it's always the way that when you can you end up wide awake at 7am.

    Even in Galapagos you can't escape the mundanities of life like laundry. Though we did find a place who do it for you for about a pound a kilo, so for £4 we just had to remember to pick it up in the afternoon.

    This morning we walked to Tortuga Bay which turned out to be a long walk to a very long, white sand beach, which dozens of marine iguanas also liked. It was a 5 mileround trip, the distance was fine but there was little shade and the heat was intense. Afterwards we had to go back for a shower and change of clothes.

    In the afternoon I treated myself to a haircut and then an ice-cream for a total of 6 US dollars. Equador uses the US dollar as it's currency.. You can do things cheaply here as long as you avoid the touristy areas. In the evening we ate at a local restaurant that always looked busy. Rice, beans, fish and chips and a fruit squash which they give everybody was £10 dollars for both of us. The previous evening's tip we left for our drinks and meal was the same amount.

    The islands are expensive to get in to with a 20 dollar tax before leaving Quito, then a 200 dollar tax on landing in Galapagos and another 10 dollar tax to go to Isabella Island. Though given the number of travellers it seems the market can bear it and the locals do seem to benefit to some extent. Whether that is working for the Galapagos national park or more directly from tourism. This is one of the few places I've been where you don't see homelessness, people on the street with mental health issues or people begging.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    It was a striking sight.
    The hotel's internal courtyard, though now with a glass roof to keep the rain out.The room is spacious and has a beautiful original wooden floor.The headboard was something else.The basilica.Never seen a motorbike in a church before, however, this was a raffle prize, a dollar a ticket.Some interesting old buildings in the street we are staying on.That was a lot of beer.Despite the absence of any gin or tonic this was an Equadorian gin & tonic.Was pretty quiet, didn't see any other tourist here.

    Back In The City

    January 28 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The return taxi, water taxi and bus to the airport all went seamlessly, even the flight took off 4 mins early. Then we were back in Quito, only 1hr 45min flight but a world away in comparison.

    Carol had booked a hotel in the historic quarter, the building we were told by the owner was 250 years old. It had been beautifully refurbished, our bedhead alone must have taken someone weeks to carve.

    We got out of the hotel around 4:30pm and walked up to the basilica for a look around. It seems whichever way you go it's either uphill or downhill. We had our one meal of the day in a local restaurant. A burger, steak, egg and rustic chips, a litre of beer and a coke all for less that 15 US dollars. These are my sort of prices.

    We went back to the hotel until around 8pm when we decided to go out for a drink. As we were going out the owner tried putting the fear of god into us by saying that in this area everything closes early and that there are a number of homeless people who would try to rob you if you weren't careful. She wasn't wrong with everything closing early, it was very quiet, no bars or restaurants open and to be honest we did feel a little uneasy.

    So for 3 US dollars we took a taxi to Plaza Foch an area for bars and restaurants, though maybe because it was a Tuesday, although they were open it was pretty quiet. Quito cocktails seem to be a law unto themselves. We had a gin and tonic that tasted like a margarita and the barman did confirm it was a G&T. Then in another bar Carol had a pina colada that didn't taste much of pina or colada. It seems beer and coke are the safest bets.

    There are no meters in the taxis, so you have to agree the price before setting off. The driver started off at 10 dollars, but I think the loud, surprised tone in my voice in response immediately brought the fare down to 5 dollars and the threat of Uber down to 3 dollars, We got back to the hotel at 22:15 and the owner was already in her gym jams. We were now wondering whether her warning of vagabonds and thieves, was so we would stay in and she could have an early night.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    The Panecillo, took 20 years to build, 1955 to 1975.
    The windows at the base of the PanecilloCentral and Northern Quito from the Panecillo.Part of the historical quarter where we were staying.You could get some serious height with chains that long.A small portion of Quito, population 3 million.Carol was very pleased she was taller than the llamas, just.They were big shoes to fill.Balancing an egg on the head of a nail much harder than it looks.A sundial used by the indigenous peoples, it was running a little slow!Guinea pig, fortunately it wasn't ready to have a try yet.The processing of cocoa.This chocolate is 100 US dollars for 50g. Unfortunately they weren't handing out samples.The equator as established in 1736, though modern mapping systems place it around 300m further northIt seems that Australia is a long way from anywhere in the world.Cerviche, seafood cooked in citrus juice. Very popular in Equador.The ceiling in Viva CervezaA picture of concentration.The water really does go straight down the plughole.

    The Middle Of The World

    January 29 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    At breakfast this morning we told the Miriam, the owner, that we had gone to Plaza Foch the previous evening. She was horrified, she said the place had changed since covid, now there are lots of immigrants, drugs and ladies of the night, the latter we did see actually. So I also asked the guide we had today and he said that since covid it wasn't a safe place to go. Maybe we need to start treating online blogs with a bit more caution.

    Today's tour turned out to be just us and the guide, with him driving us around in his car. Our first stop was to the Panecillo a huge statue on top of a ridge, which we could see from outside our hotel. In 1822 was also the site of one of the battles for independence from Spain under Simon Bolivar. That same year Gran Columbia was formed. In 1830, this new country was divided into what are now Equador, Columbia, Venezuela and Panama. Though all for countries kept the original colours of the Gran Columbia flag and just tweaked the design.

    We then took the Teleferico, a cable car, up the Pichincha volcano for a view over Quito. Apparently, it is one of the highest cable cars in the world, 2.2km long and taking you up to 3,945m, almost 13,000ft. Then a 15 min hike, that you could feel in your chest, took you up to the 4,100m lookout point. For some reason there was a swing at the top, but it did prove very popular for photos with Quito in the background, down below.

    The final stop was to the Mitad del Mundo, middle of the world. The north of Quito is on the equator and we went to an interactive outdoor museum. Apparently, due to the Coriolis effect it is easier to balance a raw egg on the head of a nail on the equator than it is anywhere else in the world. All I can say is that never having tried it before, I still found it very difficult, even on the equator.

    On our guide's recommendation he dropped us off at Parque Carolina. A newish suburb of Quito, with lots cafes and restaurants, lots of people on the street and a comfortable and safe vibe. We had something to eat, a good walk around the area and eventually found a local pub, Viva Cerveza. They have live music every Wednesday, tonight the genre was 'post rave', it sounded more like dystopian white noise. Shame we weren't here next week as it will be 'early post punk rock', that might have been more up my street.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    2We didn't have to go as far as deepest Peru to find Paddington, he was already in Lima.
    An Equadorian gin, in the airport lounge, would have been rude not to, was very nice too.Quito airport, that is not a runway you'd want to overshoot.Quito was so green, the contrast with the outskirts of Lima was stark, so dry and dusty looking.The Malacon, a clifftop promenade that must be at least a couple of miles longA launch site for paragliders from the clifftop.This was the Park of Love along the Malacon.I was surprised by how well the seafront area had been developed and maintained.The church of Virgen Milagrosa.Our pisco sours, lovely but lethal.Fruits marinated in pisco, we tried shots of strawberry and coca, both tasted of pure alcohol.The ceiling of our pisco bar.A pedestrian street of restaurants and bars, the whole area was bright, lively and almost all locals

    Off To Deepest Peru

    January 30 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Latam Airways usually ask if you want to bid for an upgrade, this time we did, bidding the minimum amount, 29 US dollars. You don't really get that much more, front of the plane, three seats between two people and a bit more legroom. Though on international flights you can use the VIP airport lounge. Our bid was rejected, but this morning I got an email to say we were on standby for an upgrade. So we went to the lounge to see if we could get in and after a phone call they let us in and very nice it was too in there. Though when we went to board it turned out we didn't get a standby upgrade. So it was perfect, we didn't pay for an upgrade but got in free to the lounge, saving 35 dollars each. This could be a tactic going forward!

    We took an airport taxi into Lima as the reports on the internet were very mixed about Uber in Peru. Our driver, Alejandro, was a right character, he spoke enough English to give us a 40 min lecture on the places to go, the things to do and not to do, the food and drinks to try and where to try them, the history of Peru and before you know it we were organising for him to pick us up to take us back to the airport in a few days. He was a very good salesman.

    Deciding where to stay within a city can be hit and miss. Quito was a miss, as the area was nice enough during the day but by 8pm it was deserted and a little intimidating. The area we are staying in in Lima, Miraflores, is the total opposite. It has lots of shops, restaurants, bars along several main and side streets and a sea front promenade. Additionally, the culture seems to be a very outdoor one, Lima is at sea level so it is much warmer than Quito and there are so many people just spending time outside. A nearby park had a large children's play area which was still really busy with young children at 9pm.

    Our taxi driver told us that we must try a pisco sour in Lima, a drink I'd heard of but never had before. Pisco is a grape based spirit around 40-45%, similar to an Italian grapa. So after dinner tonight we found a bar, La Tasca, doing two for one cocktails and so went in. Blimey, we watched the girl make the drink, she put in 4 double piscos, for two drinks. It was like rocket fuel, you couldn't drink more than a couple of those in a whole evening. Then back at the hotel this evening we had a voucher for a drink each at the bar so ordered two pisco sours. They put one and a half doubles into the shaker for our two drinks. In some ways it was just as well it was a real lightweight drink as we could still feel the effects of the first one.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    The glass dome in the main lobby of the Gran Hotel Bolivar.
    The Gran Hotel Bolivar, the home of the pisco sour.A model T Ford, in the hotel reception. Where else would you put it!The catedral, an extra large pisco sour traditionally drunk on a Sunday morning after church.The man with the mike in the blue t-shirt was making a lot of noise but not much else.Typical building with balcony in Lima in the 1600s.This building on Calle de Coca dates back to 1603We had a pisco sour tasting, a little bit of 5 different types, the original was the best.The San Francisco monastery.The interior of the church at the San Francisco monastery.The catacombs under the monastery.Now that's a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, just as well we only had half each.The main square which houses the presidential palace under lockdown due to a protest.The presidential palace.Lima cathedral.Fransisco Pizarro, the founder of Lima in 1535.There must have been a sale on Messi shirts.I doubt there is a bank closure programme in Peru, as this was a queue to get into one.The building at the end is the train station, which also doubles as a museum and arts centre.The couple in front looked infatuated with each other, we immediately thought it's an affair!

    Lima's Colonial Past

    January 31 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    For the first time in South America we went for a run this morning. The seafront promenade was the perfect place to run and was busy at 6:30am with joggers, walkers, dog walkers, dog joggers and even some cyclists. We both felt quite good, must have been those few extra red blood cells we developed after 2 nights at altitude in Quito!

    After breakfast we did a tour of the central district of Lima which dates back to it's foundation in 1535, with many buildings from the 1600s still around. However, the main square housing the presidential palace and Plaza San Martin were cordoned off in the morning due to a protest. These areas were flooded with police, quite a number of them with riot gear in hand just incase. It turned out to be a very small demonstration, maybe 15 people protesting about COVID vaccinations! Though there was a counter demonstration of about 30 medical students but it all seemed very civilised.

    After a walk though what was open we went to the San Franciscan monastery. We had a tour of the museum and the crypt which at one time held 20,000 bodies. Though they stopped burying people under the monastery in 1822, there were still many skulls and femurs in there. Bodies were buried communally and covered in quick lime to decompose the remains. However, while most bones would disintegrate, the thicker, heavier bones like femurs and skulls tended to survive the process.

    After the tour we went to the Gran Bolivar hotel, the supposed origin of the pisco sour or at least the catedral pisco sour. An over sized version favoured by locals who had come straight there from Sunday mass at the cathedral and who needed a stiff drink.

    The surroundings and the drink were very nice but not as good, in my opinion, as the one we had the previous night. So this evening after dinner, Peruvian cerviche, far superior to Equadorian cerviche I'm told, we went back to La Tasca for a farewell drink. We must be building up a tolerance to pisco as tonight we managed two in there, which would have been impossible last night.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Mary had a little alpaca, I think that's how the nursery rhyme goes in Peru.
    Your not going anywhere quickly from this village.That is a murky brown river.The sign says it all.We were given coca tea when we arrived at the hotel. It is supposed to help with the altitude.Coca leaves, your tongue starts to go numb after a few minutes of chewing.This was on my phone this morning, I'm glad it never made it as far as Lima.The view from our room.The church of San Blas.This was the only fountain I saw in the town.They must get some rain to need a gully that size.There are lots of streets like this, hard going at this altitude.1A pie with attitude.A lot of the time if your not going down your going up.Two churches for the price of one in the main square. The Cusco cathedral on the left.With so many shops selling almost the same things, it's surprising anyone makes a living.They took over one side of the road and the traffic just had to wait.

    A Touristy Flight

    February 1 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I'd read several articles on the internet saying that Lima was just a big city that you should bypass and spend more time at other locations in Peru. However, we really enjoyed our stay, there were lots of things to see, do and drink. We did stick to the tourist areas but there weren't really that many tourists. The areas were busy though with locals and we felt comfortable and safe at all times. We could have easily spent a few more days here.

    We were up at 5am for our 1 hour, morning flight to Cuzco. A relative lay in compared to what's coming up in the next two days but I'll worry about that tomorrow. Having not really noticed that many tourists in Quito and Lima, when boarding the plane today all that changed. Around 90% of those on today's flight were foreigners and about 40% of those were Chinese or Korean. Including one Chinese couple with their young son who while waiting in departures had a blazing row for about 5 mins until she stormed off.

    Today was the first Saturday since getting on the cruise that we didn't have something planned so I was able to catch the Wolves v Aston Villa game, at 12:30 local time, 5hrs behind the UK.

    For almost the next two weeks we are going to be at altitue so it's out with the layers including fleeces and jackets. Today's temperature in Cuzco was 17 degrees dropping to 7 degrees overnight. We are currently at around 3,400m and climbing the 3 floors to our room had us out of breath each time we did it.

    I was surprised how built up the town was and how much of a historical centre there is. There was life here before tourism. We spent the afternoon exploring the narrow streets, we came across a large band and about 50 dancers parading through the streets, people out selling, paintings, local handicrafts, tours, photo opportunities with people in traditional dress with their alpacas and dozens and dozens of women offering 1 hour massages for 20 Soles, about £4.50. There must be a catch there somewhere, maybe I need to explore that further!

    For dinner I had stir fried vegetables with alpaca. It had the texture of beef but the taste of something else I couldn't quite put my finger on, it was very good though. They did have guinea pig on the menu but when I was shown a picture of how it came, it put even me right off. It looked like a spatchcocked giant rat with its little head and little feet still on. Though everyone says it's lovely.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    The classic photo of Machu Picchu.
    On our way to ????Our train to Machu Picchu and back!!The river Urubamba was pretty fierce in parts.He must have been on his holidays from Lima, certainly in deepest Peru now.The buses used to take you up to Machu Picchu.The river Urubama that horseshoes the Machu Picchu site, some 400m below.The site is surrounded by four mountains, one at each cardinal compass point.A hummingbird, he was too quick for me to catch him hovering.The site's lawnmowers, having a break.They just wander round keeping the grass short.The terraces used to grow the food for the residents.We had a couple of pisco sours after our tour, they weren't too shabby at all.We were given these in our lunch boxes, I had to ask a local how you peeled it.It looked like green frog spawn, but tasted similar to passion fruit.I could just sit and watch this torrent all day,Will be getting this off to the BBB for verification!

    Machu Picchu

    February 2 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today we were picked up at 4:35am for a day trip to Machu Picchu. A taxi from the hotel took us to pick up the coach for the 2 hour journey to Ollantaytambo where we picked up the scenic train to Machu Picchu. The train followed the Urubamba river along a narrow valley surrounded by high sided mountains.

    We arrived at Machu Picchu town just before 9am, a place set up around 80 years ago to service the first tourists when an access road was built up to the Machu Picchu site. The town is now 3,000 strong but still has no road access. The only way in or out is by train, the river passing through the town is far too ferocious for any form of transport.

    A 25 minute bus journey takes you up the 400m of climbing to the site via a windy and narrow in parts road. The site is every bit as impressive as it looks in all the photos I've seen of it. Construction started in 1440 but the site was abandoned 90 years later before it was even complete due to the Spanish coming to South America. What makes the site so interesting to archeologists is that the Spanish never found Machu Picchu so it was never altered by a new incoming culture.

    Our tour of the site lasted 2 hr 45 mins. Due to illness some others who were coming today weren't able to, so we had the guide all to ourselves, we effectively had a private tour. We were very lucky with the weather, despite hearing thunder in the mountains for some time the rain kept away. In the direct sun it was very warm especially with all the layers, so fortunately up there it was mostly cloudy.

    The tour was excellent, however the fun and games started when we went to get our 16:12 train back to Ollantaytambo. We were told there would be a delay as another company's train had a problem on the single track line ahead. Thirty minutes later we boarded the train but still didn't have a time for setting off. Then about 2 hours after we should have set off, it turned out there had been debris thrown onto the line, which a train had run into causing a partial derailment. One passenger had a video of the immediate aftermath, though my question was how did he get hold of this, will have to get BBC Verify onto this one. Anyway 2 hours soon turned to 4 hours and then to 5 hours, I was thinking I'll just be glad to get back to Cusco at anytime tonight. We finally left 5 hours 40 minutes late, then the bus to Cusco and then the taxi back to our hotel, we got in at 1:35am. Twentyone hours after we set off!    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Sheer relief.
    The minibus's heater must have been broken as they gave all of us blankets and we need them.The village of Cusipata where we had breakfast, dwarfed by the mountain it sits under.Natural terraces on the mountain slope.A super wiggly river winding through the valley.I'm assuming the giant boulder finished up in that position before they built the stone bridge.Those who decided not to walk saddling up for the trek.I got the feeling they wear the local dress all the time and not just for the tourists.The overnight snow was slowly melting.One woman and her horse heading back down to the start point.Jogging back down to catch another fare, walking was hard enough.By this point taking the horse option was looking more and more attractive.Glaciers on the other side of the valley.Must be lunchtime.The final ascent to the 5,036m viewing point.Vinicunca, the original name until about 15 years ago when it changed to its more descriptive name.A smile of satisfaction.She needed a bigger step to level up.Our guide took one look at us at the start and said 'the horses are this way'. Little did he know usFor a fee you could have your photo taken with this little fella. He was very patient, knew his job.

    Rainbow Mountain

    February 3 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We were picked today up at 4:25am, a total of 2 hours 50 mins in the hotel and 90 minutes in bed, since we got back from the Machu Picchu trip.

    We were very disappointed to find there were other people on our tour today! We have been really lucky with quite a few excursions being the only ones on them. So after having picked up the others, such a chore, we had a 90 min drive before stopping for breakfast.

    After breakfast we drove the Cusipata route for an hour along the most stunning valley, slowly climbing its steep, windy, earth & gravel road until we reached the point where we could go no further. Here at around 4,600m we had a choice, to walk 3.3km or to take a horse and walk the last 800m. We decided on the former.

    The trip really is a pretty stupid thing to do. To drive up to 4,600m and then climb another 400m over a couple of miles is really physically challenging for someone of any age and medical facilities looked none existent. When I did the Everest marathon we started at 3,400m and walked for 7 days before we got to 5,000m. But that said, we set off with a mix of excitement and expectation that it was going to be really tough.

    Up to where the horses go, the path was pretty good and the climb reasonable with some level bits. Stopping every ten mins or so for a 30 second breather worked well. However, the last 800m were really, really, tough. The incline suddenly ramped up and the combination of what we'd already done, not being remotely acclimatised and only having been in bed for 90 minutes last night really hit home. On sections I was down to 25 steps between stops to get my breath back. But like all these thing if you can keep putting one foot in front of the other you eventually get there, even if you are questioning why you are doing it.

    Reaching the top felt euphoric, but that might just have been down to the lack of oxygen. I had been worried that the colours wouldn't live up to all the photos I'd seen, but it was every bit as spectacular. The sun was out, the morning snow had almost all melted, the colours were sharp and vibrant and the sense of achievement of making it to the 5,036m viewing point was better than the majority of things I've done.

    It was one of the best tours I've ever been on, the drive through the valley alone was a whole trip in itself, the Andes are breathtaking.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    We'd have been ok if it rained.
    In Peru corn is everywhere, meals, on street, pub snacks, so thought I'd try their sugar puffs.The only place with a queue was our flight.He definitely gets about a bit.We flew over lake Titicaca, it was vast.Would need to be a pretty good friend you shared this room with.The view from our room, with two tram lines below.At around 5pm the pavements were packed.The top of the San Francisco church.Our first pisco sours in Bolivia, £1.65 each, tasted a little thin, but for the price, not too bad.This was in the tourist area.Need to up my selfie game.Condors flying low.Every potion possible, from multi vitamins, to anti cancer, to XXX maxima potencia.One of the shops in the witches market, not sure what was real and what wasn't.They can't be real llamas, can they?Traffic in La Paz is very heavy at anytime of the day. A lot of it is these shared minibuses.San Francisco church.What more could you want, especially as they had a Bolivian MOTD of the weekends EPL fixtures.The view from our room in the evening.

    Next Stop La Paz

    February 4 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Timing can be everything in life but today ours was right out. Arriving at the airport which was very quiet, apart from a huge queue for one flight, our flight. Despite insisting we had checked in and just wanted to drop the bags off we were shown to the back of the huge queue. About 45 Koreans on a South American tour. In 20 minutes the queue had moved about 5 yards, at which point the staff took pity on us and let us use the empty priory lane.

    Near the end the flight as we flew over lake Titicaca we got talking to an American girl who had Bolivian family. She gave us some recommendations of places to go and things to see. She then said that the official exchange rate was around 7 Bolivians to the dollar, however if you used some of the smaller money exchange places you could get 11 Bolivians to the dollar. We'd not seen this anywhere on the internet so it came as a complete surprise.

    Our hotel told us they could change money for us at 7 Bolivians as the nearest money exchange was a 40 minute walk, all up hill and we are at an altitude of around 3,600m. But little did they know they were dealing rainbow mountaineers, so we set off in search of the 11 Bolivians.

    When we got there all the exchange shops were advertising 6.96 Bolivians. However, we did notice several man and a desk in a shop doorway set ups, offering exchange but showing no rate. On enquiring they did offer 11 Bolivians. The question was, as we'd never even seen a Bolivian note, would they be genuine. So for 120 us dollars we took a punt. We then immediately went into the bar next door and had a pisco sour. I went to pay with the dodgiest looking note he gave us, I gave the girl the note, she smiled at me, put it in the till and gave me some change. What a relief!

    We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening feeling rather snug about the extra 57% we had got on the exchange rate by pure luck and wandering the tourist area and witches market, one of our recommendations.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Looking at the jetties, the water level looks like it does vary over the year.
    The open barges that vehicles are loaded into for the crossing.Surprising how much the barges can move.We on the other hand took a small boat.Our bus arriving about 10 mins after we did.There are so many people selling all sorts of things on the roadside.The Virgen of Copacabana.In the grounds of the church.Some unusual accommodation.They've squeezed a few in there.A little wobbly looking, but they do the job.They said, after lunch at 12:30 to meet at the white anchor, we thought it was a pub!The guide said this bird was a Gaviota, after several miutes I translated it to a........ Seagull.Interesting ponytails.The trail just before it starts to descend.The harbour we had to descend to at the end of our hike.This must be called Two Tree Island.

    Lake Titicaca

    February 5 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Before leaving for our trip today we asked the hotel if they could book us a taxi for early Friday morning. They said if we had Bolivians we could pay the driver directly and it would be 100bs. If we wanted to pay in US dollars it would be 25 dollars, which is 175bs. Just goes to show if you make some effort to exchange money how much cheaper things are. In fact it dawned on me this morning we should not be using our credit cards in Bolivia as the bank exchange rate would be based on around 7 Bolivians to the dollar and for cash we can get 11 Bolivians. No brainer, cash is king!

    Today's excursion, 6:20am pick-up, was to Lake Titicaca, with a stop for lunch in Copacabana and an hour's boat ride on the lake to Isla Del Sol. A couple of hours in we arrived at the Strait of Tiquina a narrow point at the southern end of the lake. We had to get off the bus and board a small boat while the bus boarded an open barge that looked as though it was powered by a couple of outboard motors. Watching the bus go across I was really glad we weren't on it.

    It was then onto Copacabana, no show girls, where we had lunch and had time to look around the small town. The main industry does seem to be tourism, with maybe with a bit fishing on the side. Part of the Peruvian and Bolivian border goes through the lake which makes Copacabana a hub for people travelling by bus between the two countries.

    After lunch we took the boat to Isla Del Sol. Opposite Sun Island was Moon Island, so named by the Incas who had settlements here. Men lived on Sun Island and women on Moon Island. If they married they would both have to move away. There was mention of a hike on the island, visiting the Inca temple. However, no mention we'd have to hike up for 15 minutes and back down another 15 minutes further along the coast. With a bit of huffing and puffing we got there, we must be creating new red blood cells by the thousand.

    On the 2.5 hour bus journey back to LA Paz they put a film on and gave everyone a bag of popcorn. That was a really nice touch.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    This was only a fraction of the market it went on and on and on.
    Super giant corn, which they have for breakfast. Not sweet at all.The itinerary we put together in the launderette. By cable car but with a decent walk too.The other side of the map with our last stop of the day, Calacoto.Not the quality enamel signs of LU that easily withstand people tracing the route with their finger.The cable stations were very modern, very clean and fully staffed, including ticket offices.Our first journey in the Piccadilly Line.Seemed to be a base for naval forces.Save paying for a ticket, just travel back and forth on the circle line.Known as moon valley, for it's resemblance to a lunar landscape.This wasn't zoomed in, we got close enough to have taken the washing off the line.Those stairs would be a real challenge, but they are at 4,000m, out of breath just at the thought.The viewing point at the end of the circle line.I seriously would not want to live in a cliff edge like that.The plastic bag over the plate saves on the washing up.They were salty but really nice, a beer would have gone perfectly with them.Note the serviettes hanging from the string.The hat with neck flap £2, balaclava £1.50 and the body wallet £75p, all knock offs but good qualityThe buildings seem to be built around these jubilee line cars.A mini Christ the Redeemer.Looks like a local boy band shooting their video.

    A Grand Day Out

    February 6 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We had no trips booked for our last day in La Paz so the first task of the day after breakfast was a trip to the launderette. While we waited for our washing, with the aid of a cable car map and the recommendations given to us by the girl we met on the flight to La Paz we put together our own city tour itinerary.

    The traffic in La Paz is horrendous all day long, which is probably the reason they invested in ten connected cable car routes around the city. You can travel any line for 22p and if you interchange directly onto another line then you pay 15p. So a very affordable way to get around the city. The lines are named by colour and everything on each line is colour coordinated, the cars, the stations even the seating. The first lines opened in 2014 so it looks very modern.

    So we took the Piccadilly, Circle and Jubilee line up to and along El Alto. Where we came across what is supposed to be the biggest outdoor market in South America. It went on for ever and was 6 stalls wide along one long stretch. I can't believe there is a bigger market than that anywhere in the world.

    So we wandered a tiny part of it, I was surprised how many customers there were, and barely a tourist. I would have loved to take lots of photos but it didn't feel like the environment to do that. I had a plate of whitebait looking fish for 15p, you could have a full plate of potatoes and a sort of green sauce with the fish for 67p. We also bought some very cheap, hats, balaclavas and body wallets.

    We then took the Central line in to town and walked across the centre via Plaza Murillo and the lookout point Mirador Killi Killi. I'm sure it's named that because the walk up to the viewing point is so steep it nearly does kill you. From there onto the white line (haven't got an underground equivalent for that). Then via the Piccadilly line again onto the District line to one of La Paz's poshest suburbs, where we had dinner.

    It was a full on day, we left at 11am and got back about 9:30pm. However, we really enjoyed it. Probably more than a proper tour because we had planned it ourselves and had to find out own way round, so you had a sense of achievement about it as well.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Taking off from La Paz airport.
    This stray found his way into the airport and later had a pee up a wall.We were very impressed they'd especially put a band on in the airport for our arrival in Sucre.The taxi driver had music videos playing on the dash's LCD panel. I'm sure that's not legal at home.Our new room at no extra cost, as the original property was being refurbished after a flood.We had the Friday menu of the day, soup, enchiladas and a creamy dessert thing, was lovely.The restaurant was lovely.With views over the main square.The gardens in the main square were beautifully laid out and very well maintained.There is a definite skill to sweeping up using palm leaves.The Mirador de la Mansarda, a viewing point in the main square.Casa de la Libertad, I thought the matching cones were a nice touch.The Iglesia de San Felipe de Neri, a girls convent school, with visitors allowed in the afternoon.The viewing point at the top of the convent.I think that bell has sounded it's last dong.The Harry Potter themed cafe bar that I never noticed until we'd been sat in there for 20 minutes.I was sat right next to this wall and still didn't pick up on the theme.What sort of bird makes a nest like that.The tasting menu, all 11 courses. Good job we had an English speaking waiter.

    A Slower Pace

    February 7 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Up very early this morning for the first of our two flights at 05:45. They were two forty-five minute flights via Cochabamba, no direct flights for some reason.

    We arrived at the hotel around 11am exactly the same time as a Bolivian couple and the owner sat us down and in both languages for about 15 mins she gave us a detailed itinerary of things to see and places to go. We didn't need to go to the tourist information after that.

    Bolivia has two capitals, La Paz is the adminstrative capital and Sucre is the constitutional capital. Walking the downhill half mile to the main square, Sucre immediately felt a much more laid back sort of place. We had lunch at one of the recommendations, Azafran. We got the last table on the balcony, the atmosphere in there was so relaxed, the fixed menu of the day, 3 courses for £2.25 was excellent. However, my two bottles of beer came to £2.85, so cheaper to eat than drink. The surroundings, the food, the music made for the best lunch I've had in ages.

    In the afternoon we wandered the streets around the centre and went to the convent girls school of Iglesia de San Felipe de Neri where after lessons the public can have a guided tour and go up onto the roof for views across central Sucre and beyond.

    In the evening, we did another recommendation (she must be on good commission), a restaurant that does an 11 courses tasting menu with four paired cocktails and two paired wines. All for the extravagant sum of £13.50 each. Again the meal, atmosphere and surroundsings made for a great experience.

    Today was the most relaxing day we'd had since getting off the ship and I think we were probably ready for it.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Inflation before our very eyes, not sure why it takes four people to put the prices up though.
    The Plaza Pedro de Anzurez, from the colonnade there are views across Sucre.Also in the plaza is the Monasterio de La Recoleta.The church of San Francisco.The church of the hospital, San Juan.The obelisk in the Plaza de la Libertad.Sucre's original theatre.The Catedral Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guardalupe, in the main square.Carol had a JD and coke and I had a litre of beer, which lasted me the whole game, unlike Carol's.These urinals appear to be graded by size, I know where I stand!Interesting traffic engineering, not quit sure how safe the yellow box is in the middle of the road.A couple of pre-show Chuflay's at Azafran, the lovely restaurant we had lunch in yesterday.Singani, a Bolivian spirit similar to grappa.A map of the different regional dress from around Bolivia.Doesn't look much but it was a delicious set egg custard.1The band leader does look a little the worse for wear. He could give Bez a run for his money.Tap dancing Bolivian gauchos.

    A Second Easy Day

    February 8 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today we had a lay in until 9am and I felt shattered getting up. I seem to feel fresher getting up early and being on the move rather than getting up later.

    We had breakfast and did some admin regarding the trip, at least I don't have to do anymore flight check-ins for the next week. It was almost 12pm before we left the room, so a very leisurely morning by our normal standards.

    We set off for a viewing point close to the hotel. Viewing points have to have height though, which meant walking up a very steep hill that had us breathing hard. Sucre is around 1,000m below La Paz, so I thought being active here would be easier. However, it doesn't seem to work like that, well not yet at least, maybe another week on high ground in the Andes will change that.

    The little tourist map we got from the B&B contained four walking routes around the central area, so we did those this afternoon and then tried to find a place showing today's FA cup games. Easier said than done, though we did see the last 15 mins of England in the rugby against France which turned out to be quite exciting with the lead changing 3 times and England coming out on top by one point.

    We eventually found a place for the last quarter of the Newcastle win against Birmingham. Though after the game they switched over to the Madrid derby, so off we went again in search and 20 mins later we found the Brighton v Chelsea game in our last chance saloon, who had already said they couldn't get the game!! Very pleased with that, so I ordered a litre sized glass of beer as it was cheaper than two 300ml bottles. Even in a place where things are cheap, you still look for a bargain!

    On the way to a Bolivian dinner and cultural dance show we had booked, we called into Azafran again, as we liked it so much and had a Chuflay, Bolivia's pisco sour. An Italian grappa style spirit called Sangani mixed with ginger ale and a squeeze of lemon, very refreshing.

    The show was quite good, featuring dances and costumes from the different regions of Bolivia, interspersed with a video of the different regions. A bit like a tourist information film, but in Spanish. At the end they dragged about 10 people up on stage for a dance, Carol went, unfortunately I had to stay behind and do the video, otherwise I'd have been straight up there!    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Light at the end of the tunnel, everyone was pleased to be out.
    Bridge over the river Pilcomayo.Pitstop on the way to Potosi.Our hostel accommodation, we upgrade to the Matrimonial suite, for an extra 3 dollars 40 cents.Couldn't find the latest gas test certificate, rather be cold than take the chance.They claim to be the highest brewery in the world, and charge accordingly, beer 35bs, coke 3bs.Anyone can buy dynamite at £3 stick, including fuse and pink bag of amyl nitrate.Carol is in there somewhere under that helmet.An offering of alcohol and coca leaves on entering the mine for protection.Iron ore.Offerings to the devil of coca leaves, cigarettes and spirit, for protection while in the mine.Sulphur deposits.Copper depositsThe devil enjoying a smoke that we'd brought for him. He is known to the miners as Uncle George.2Surprisingly no-one wanted to light the fuse, so I did it. Once he'd placed it, I was straight off!Mine workings.Seems banksy has been to Bolivia.The area around the main square is very different from the rest of the city.A very grand church in the main square.More main square architecture.One way of holding your soft tacos together.The buildings soon change away from the main square.

    A Sobering Day

    February 9 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We had already booked our £1.50 each bus tickets for the 4hr trip to Potosi. However, Carmen the woman running our B&B said that you could get a private taxi for £22.50 for the 100 mile journey. Which meant instead of catching the 6am bus we could be picked up at the B&B at 9am and taken directly to our hostel. It didn't take too long to opt for the taxi option.

    The taxi didn't turn out to be a taxi but a private car, driven by Pedro, who didn't speak a word of English and was probably Carmen's brother-in-law. His driving was rather sedate to begin with. Then we stopped at a roadside place and he said he wanted a coke. Then for the remaining 2 hours he was driving like Max Verstappen, passing manoeuvres included. I soon realised it wasn't a cola he stopped for but coca leaves, which perk you up no end and now he was really on it. Though we did reach Potosi safe and sound.

    Potosi is a mining city, so we had a tour of the mine booked for 1:30pm.. It is one of the highest cities in the world at just over 4,000m nearly 13, 500ft. The Spanish started extracting silver here in 1545 and at the end of that century 60% of the world's silver came from Potosi. Today, 9,000 men and 1,000 women mine silver, zinc, copper, lead, gemstones and other minerals.

    First stop was the miners shop where collectively we had to buy, a small bottle of 96% spirit, a bag of coca leaves and a pack of 10 rough rolled cigarettes as an offering to the devil for protection while in the mine. As a group we also bought a stick dynamite, a bag of amyl nitrate and a 2 minute fuse. To get the feel of what's it's like when they are blasting rock. The offering was £1.35 and the dynamite £3.

    The tour of the mine lasted 1 hour 30 mins, by which time I was so happy to literally see the light at the end of the tunnel and breath fresh air again. Being tall I spent 70% of the time either bent forwards, sideways or doubled over, at one point we were all on hands and knees. We had masks on for the dust but you had to pull the mask away just to get enough air in, especially at 4,250m. I can't understand how you could work in these conditions day in day out for life, however long that might be. It is a well paid job by local standards, but you're only paid if you're working.

    In the old centre of Potosi, you could see from the size and quality of the buildings this was once a very rich city. We finished the mine tour by 4:30pm and spent some time exploring it's streets and buildings before holing up in a cosy little bar, El Boliche del Alan, you for the rest of the day.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    We've come from the bottom one and are going to the three above.
    A sheet, two blankets, a quilt and a top cover, warm, but felt like someone was laying on top of me.The Potosi bus station with a worrying lack of buses.We were told there was a 1 bs fee for using the bus station. Sounded dodgy to me but the locals paidThese people got off the bus at a place where there was absolutely nothing as far as you could see.From almost desert to a verdant valley.One of the few villages we passed through on route.This area looked like a proper desert, cactuses and all.Three and a half hours of mountains then super flat, you could see Uyuni from the last mountain.The outskirts of Uyuni looks like a western.Looked like they'd spent some money on the bus station here and there were buses too.An interesting sculpture, though not quite sure what it's meant to be.1With a pricing strategy like that they are forcing you to drink litre bottles. So I'll just have to.

    Away From The Mountains

    February 10 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We had a little bit of a sweat on this morning. We left the hostel just after 6am to get a taxi to the bus station for our 7am coach to Uyuni. We hadn't booked one but there were plenty of taxis on the street, it was just they either had people in them or presumably were on their way to pick someone up. This went on for around 20 mins until someone got out of a taxi right in front of us. What a relief that was, I was already trying to working out when the next bus might be.

    So just after 7am we set off on our first coach of this trip. We were the only foreigners on the coach which surprised me as this route is quite a well worn tourist trail. The vast majority of whom are 20s to early 30s. Just as well I can pass for mid 30s so I don't feel like the odd one out!

    The terrain on the journey between the two cities changed frequently. From big mountains, to scrub, to desert, to verdant valleys then all of a sudden everything flattened out, as we approached Uyuni.

    Uyuni is just under 300m lower than Potosi and sits in a flat basin at around 3,700m. All the streets seem to have a layer of fine sand on them that must blow into the town from the immediate surrounding areas.

    We had a pretty relaxed day exploring the touristy bits and some of the adjacent local areas. It does feel pretty safe, but as with anywhere you just have to keep your wits about you.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Uyuni was a railway town, but since the railways closed, it's focus had been on tourism.
    That's the sort of bike you could do with, come rain or shine.Not sure how much goes in that box.A transformers style sculpture.Not sure I'm going to be driving this one very far.Carol did well to get up there.This one looks like it's been pretty well cannibalised.Apart from the Bolivian flag in the middle in not too sure what the others are.Speeding along the salt flats felt like we were in an episode of Top Gear.None of the guides knew why this pitstop on the salt flat had been named Dakar.I'm sure there is a Union Jack in there somewhere.The salt breeze blocks that everything was made from.It rained heavily while we were having lunch I was just hoping it wasn't all going to melt.A bench made of salt, that dripping water from the roof has eaten away at.I think this bloke just wanted to say he'd ridden his touring bike on the salt flats and some proof.Our vehicle for the day, not the newest Landcruiser but reasonably comfortable.Carol has been learning from the youngsters.The expansion of the salt causes the upper crust to push upwards and create these irregular shapes.The description says it all.Three different poses as they drove round us the times.

    A Day On The Salt Flats

    February 11 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Our tour today was a late start at 10:30am. A few people had dropped out of the tour so it meant there were only 4 people in each of the two Toyota Landcruisers, which made for a much more comfortable trip. We had a young Scottish girl Lauren, and a Dutch woman Paula, in our vehicle, who had already been travel around Argentina and Chile, so we had plenty to talk about.

    The first stop was the train graveyard. Trains from the late 1800s until the early 1990s were used to export the various mined ore and minerals via Chile. The graveyard was used to store unrepairable or redundant trains, which were then used for parts. Once the operators of these trains pulled out over 30 years ago, they just left everything behind.

    Then to a place where we leant about how the salt is gathered and processed. Once the process is complete it's worth 14bs for 50kg, however, in the shop they were selling it for 10bs for 250g, now that is a mark up.

    We then headed onto the salt flats, a little corner of the 12,000 square kilometers of it. To a place called Dakar, bizarrely a restaurant on the salt flats made from salt breeze blocks. It was a very nice lunch, but it cost 37p to spend a penny, so I held it in.

    We then went further into the salt flats to take a strange series of photos. Everyone joined in and it was fun, if not a little odd. I then wanted to see what it would be like running at 3,650m, I lasted 3 mins at just under 10 min mile before I could hardly breath anymore.

    Then onto Colchani where out of more salt breeze blocks they had built a maze and a series of sculptures. The maze was fun and quite difficult, but we eventually made it after bumping into the same people going in the opposite direction, several times.

    The final stop of the day was for a sundowner, though it was more of a pour downer as we watched the lightening in the distance, the dark cloud almost touching the horizon and then felt the wind and rain come our way. We were supposed to spend a little more time out there to see the stars in perfect darkness but the weather put paid to that.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    That definitely looks like a volcano to me.
    Windows not closing properly, seat belt not working, recliner not working, but other than that!Flat wide expanse and nothing to disturb it.Surprising number of animals just off the side of the road.San Cristobal, the largest place on the way to the border.There was a surprising amount of water given the terrain.Alpacas and llamas, despite being told the difference numerous times, still not sure which is which.Motorway services, not too far from the border.The queue at the Bolivian side of the border.The new bus, comfier, wider seats, more recline and no rattlely sliding windows.Sofa at the Chilean immigration office, shows how long it takes to get through here.A very long train waiting to go through the border.This woman had the whole back compartment for her stuff, hope she was paying for the excess weight.They must be the 3 most lucrative cafes in Chile as tourists try to get rid of their last Bolivians.It's a chocolate covered sugar puff, quiet nice as a little snack on the bus. Well a bag of them!This town was a very large oasis in the Atacama desert.This was just outside of the oasis, straight back to desert.Almost nothing growing in the sand.The game is being played in Santiago but when the home team scored there was a lot of noise in here.Everyone drinking or dining by candlelight, due to a power cut along the whole street.

    Chile By Bus

    February 12 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    This morning we didn't have the best of starts to a 13 hour bus journey from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. Instead of leaving at 6:15am we were told we would be leaving at 9am due to one road currently being partially flooded. We were also told we would have to change buses at the Chilean border. At least it would give me time to get my penguin posts up to date!

    Then without explanation we left at 7:10am, I suppose that is one way to make a 55 minute delay seem like a right result. So we set off and within 20 mins were on a dirt road. The old bus with its sliding windows was rattling so loudly we should have had ear plugs. It reminded me of the Central Line between Stratford and Mile End, it was a right home from home!

    The scenery all the way to the Chilean border kept changing, as did the road surface. It was hard to focus on catching up with my penguins as I kept getting distracted by the scenery and with taking photos. Being on the bus for hours reminded me of the South American series of Race Across The World, but without the fake jobs or running for hotels.

    We arrived at the Bolivian side of the boarder at 10:40. It was bags off, online form filled in, migration, customs scanner, get on the new bus. A few minutes later arrived at the Chilean side, sat on the bus for over 30 minutes, bags off, immigration, paper form filling, full bag search (no scanners), get bank on bus. It took 2 hours 50 minutes to clear both sides. Blimey, you could have flown between the Uyuni and San Pedro and back in the time it took to get across the border. Though as they say bus passengers do have a lower value of time.

    Once on the Chilean side it was tarmac roads all the way and into the Atacama desert proper. Initially still mountainous but vast open spaces totally untouched, which gave way to flatter, even more inhospitable looking terrain, but no less interesting. It was 7:20pm when we eventually arrived in San Pedro, in the rain, but at more or less the original arrival time despite the late start.    Read more

  • Bron PlaskowskiTravelerIt Started As A 2 Week Cruise
    Under the covering of brown sand and dust is bright, white salt.
    Some pavements had as much mud as the roads did.The water seemed to be a bit of a novelty for some of the stray dogs.This stray dog wasn't moving for anyone once he'd found a nice dry spot.Mud walls are fine until you get a lot of rain.Now that is a rock garden, minimal maintenance required.The church of San Pedro.Stunning roof in the church of San Pedro, even the altar candles are electric, not taking any chanceOnly problem with a mud roof and lots of rain.Straw, mud and chicken wire, what more do you need to build a supporting structure!Despite being surrounded by salt for 60 years, the near zero humidity means minimal rusting.A little picnic before the hike to come, the pisco sours certainly helped.The guide using his foot as a step for people to get down to the path to the cave.The narrow path leading to the cave.It was pretty tight in places.Little did we know we were going up the slope on the left.The views from the top were wonderful.Traversing along the top of the slope we'd just climbed, it was steep in parts.You can just see the path we traversed, just below the top of the ridge, looks easy from this angle.Relieved to have made it across.After the mine in Potosi I thought I'm done with scrambling through tight dark places, and then..,..I felt like Kate Bush.

    A Stroll In The Desert

    February 13 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So apparently the Atacama desert is the driest non polar desert in the world. Though it was raining when we got to the oasis of San Pedro and it had also rained a lot the day before too. We obviously brought them luck.

    The old area of San Pedro, where we are staying has been kept as original as possible. Mud brick buildings, earth roads, very narrow pavements. That's fine when you barely get any rain but after two days of heavy rain the place was a quagmire.

    This afternoon's trip was to Vallecito. Millions of years ago this area was sea, then following tectonic plate movement became a massive lake and eventually dried out leaving huge salt deposits. The whole area is made up of 95% salt, rock thrown up from the tectonic movement and sand blown in from the surrounding areas. This almost zero humidity environment supports no life whatsoever, no plants, no insects, not even bacteria.

    We weren't really expecting too much from the trip as it was a last minute change due to the weather. There was a nice little picnic with juice or pisco sours, no need to ask! Then we set off on what I thought was a 15 min hike but turned out to be 90 minutes. Taking those who wanted to go, through a tight cave and coming out on the other side, then up a steep but firm sandy slope, along a for a fair way on this sandy ridge and up to viewing points along a slightly easier ridge on top of the salt hills.

    You could see rain and lightening in the distance, but fortunately we were back down well before it came our way. Afterwards, the guide admited that although he'd been in the area many times, it was the first time he'd done this route and he hadn't expected it to be quite that tough! Having said that it was good fun and the views from the tops were just stunning. Just as well I didn't do that cave straight after the cruise though or I might have not been able to fit through!    Read more

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice