Chile
Colchane

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    • Day 333

      Bolivien - Chile

      October 14, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Samstagmorgen sind wir wieder startklar. Da der DPF nach der Reinigung und Regeneration trotzdem zu 60% voll ist, entscheiden wir uns kurzerhand nicht weiter nach La Paz, sondern nach Iquique zu fahren. Richtig, wir fahren noch einmal nach Chile, obwohl wir uns bereits zweimal von diesem Land verabschiedet hatten. Die Idee: dort können wir den Dieselpartikelfilter professionell reinigen lassen, guten Diesel tanken und Berry auf Meereshöhe mal wieder richtig ausfahren. Hoffen wir, dass das alles so hinhaut. All das könnte man sich sparen, wenn man DPF, AGR und KAT ausbauen würde, doch das wollen wir ungern. Aber was soll's, für uns ist das kein Umweg, sondern noch mehr was wir auf diesem wunderschönen Kontinent zu sehen bekommen.

      Es ist toll, wieder durch die bezaubernde Andenlandschaft zu fahren. So richtig genießen können wir es dieses Mal aber nicht. Wir sind beide ziemlich angespannt, ob wir es ohne weitere Fehlermeldung über die hohen Berge schaffen und vergessen dabei ganz ein paar Fotos zu machen. Höhepunkt ist der chaotische Grenzübergang bei Colchane. Private PKW sind es nicht viele, dafür unzählige Doppeldecker-Busse und kilometerlange LKW-Schlangen (die schaffen es heute bestimmt nicht mehr alle über die Grenze). Wir fragen uns durch, bis wir die richtige Reihe zum Anstehen gefunden haben.

      Es müssen 3 Formulare mehr ausgefüllt werden, als wir es bisher von den Grenzübergängen zwischen Argentinien und Chile gewohnt sind. Und anscheinend fehlt uns ein 2. Papier, welches wir bei der Einreise nach Bolivien hätten bekommen sollen- was wir aber definitiv nicht haben. Naja, nach 4 Stunden ist es endlich geschafft. Als letztes steht wie immer die Fahrzeugkontrolle der SAG an. Mit dem Typen ist nicht gut Kirschen essen, zum ersten Mal kommt ein Suchhund zum Einsatz. Mehr als ein bisschen Obst findet er aber nicht, das meiste haben wir kurz vor der Grenze gegessen, verschenkt oder gekocht. Gut so, denn die Eier hätte der Kerl uns ohne mit der Wimper zu zucken direkt im Kühlschrank kaputt gehauen. So richtig Willkommen fühlen wir uns dieses Mal in Chile nicht.
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    • Day 57

      Magical night at Pollequere hot springs

      November 25, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      We reached Pollequere hot springs and parked our vehicle near the springs. There was steam from the hot springs that we could see in the moonlight. We used the lights of the vehicle to look around the place and decided to park it just behind a low wall there to protect from the strong winds of the altiplano.
      Hristo was quite tired and it was quite cold outside so he decided to sleep immediately while I kept looking at the stars and was tempted to go out and take pictures. In the end, the draw of the stars was too much. I took out my tripod and took some lovely pictures of billions and billions of stars shining over the salt plains. The moon was about a half full and the light was too much to capture the beauty of the starry night that the eyes saw. It was stunning!! Magical!! Words or pictures just can't describe what the eyes saw. It was a clear dark sky, there were so many stars that there was hardly a spec of darkness where I couldn't see a star or a shining dot. The milky whiteness from the moonlight added to the mystic effect of the night. As I moved around with my tripod taking pictures of the stars from different places and angles, I thought I saw mysterious flashes beyond the horizon on the Northern side behind the hills. They almost looked like flashes of lightning during a storm but without the lightning visible. Just hazy flashes of light beyond the hills. I thought I must have imagined it.
      In the night it became quite cold and both of us woke up to take out warmer jackets and fleece to wear. By now, the moon had set behind the hills towards the South and the only light was from the billions of stars in the sky. It was an undescribable spectacle. Niw, even the Milky Way was visible directly above the vehicle but it was too cold to step out and try and take pictures. It was then that we both saw those mysterious flashes again and we saw them at the same time. So, we were sure now that it was not a work of imagination and that there actually were something going on. The vehicle was pointed towards the North and we saw these light flashes in that direction.
      After about an hour or so of sleep, it became extremely cold. It was about 2 am. We could feel it was below freezing and even with our winter jackets and fleece, we were feeling cold inside the vehicle. We turned on the engine and the heater for about 30 min. It became nice and cozy inside. The windows cleared up and we again saw those mysterious flashes in the sky but still not even a spec of clos anywhere. It was a bit unreal to see flashes in the sky with no clouds anywhere. It was so bright with the lights of the gazillions of stars that I was able to take a picture of the night sky with even my cellphone.

      After that, we slept for a few hours more when it again got very cold by around 5 am. I turned on the engine again for another 30 min and we were able to sleep for some more time.
      It was in the morning only that we were able to confirm that it had been below freezing in the night when we saw ice on top of even the hot water springs where they were shallow.
      It had been an uncomfortable and freezing cold night but, one, that I would not exchange for anything else in the world. It had been the most amazing and magical places and nights I've ever experienced.
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    • Day 58

      Morning at Pollequere hot springs

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

      It was extremely cold early in the morning and by now, the heat in the vehicle had dissipated, so we woke up as soon as the sun was out at 7 am. It was amazing. Even in the winter jackets and fleece we felt chilled down to the bones if we stood in the shadows. In the sun, the temperatures were 4-5C higher and quite pleasant in our winter clothes but at the same time, the sun was very sharp and piercing due to the high altitude.
      Due to the low temperatures, the steam from the hot spring was quite dense and we could see many places in the plains where steam was rising up. The salt flats seemed to be on fire.
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    • Day 58

      Colored algae in the hot springs

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Some of the hot springs had algae in the water. Tge heat from the water promotes their growth. There were algae of different colors - red, brown, green, yellow etc. Each hot spring was different, some were shallow placid pools while others were bubbling with hot water, some had steam coming out in whisps while the others were bellowing massive amounts and high into the air. It was like walking on a different planet.Read more

    • Day 58

      Salar de Surire

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We drove North along the edge of the Salar de Surire in the direction of the salt factory we had seen pervious night. The salar was exactly the same as that in Uyuni, just a smaller version of it. It was a big sheet of white spread across the flats. We even saw some herds of vicuñas on the way. The Conaf place was still closed. 🙄🙄Read more

    • Day 58

      Red river

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      The scenic route continued till the highway 15-CH between Chile and Bolivia. On the way, at Escapiña, the Rio Sitani was red with an algae that blooms in November. It looked like the Crystal River in Colombia. It was a very unique sight. We stopped for a while to take pictures and then continued on to the highway. There, we turned left to Colchane.Read more

    • Day 58

      South to Lirima

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌫 12 °C

      We had our lunch at a restaurant in Colchane and then headed South again towards the Lirima hot springs on the way to Pica oasis.
      A bit south of Colchane, we turned left onto a gravel road which continued south. After a few kms, the asphalted road started. This part of the altiplano is quite flat with straight road going South.Read more

    • Day 57

      A place to stay??

      November 25, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

      As we reached the salt plains of Surire, it was quite dark, we could barely see the road but in the distance, we saw some lights and thought this would be the Conaf place. We drove into the campus with the lights. It turned out to be the salt extraction factory. The workers were surprised to see us since it is forbidden to enter there. We asked them for a place to stay and they too pointed to the Conaf as the only place nearby. We drove further to the Conaf place but as with all their offices and centers, this too was closed. There was absolutely no lights there, it was pitch dark. We used the lights of the vehicle to check the place. There was no one around. We could see inside the rooms and saw nice beds with blankets but everything was locked. We decided to check if any of the windows was open. One of them opened partially, we were tempted to break in and sleep inside, but, not knowing the penalty for trespassing, we decided not to do it. It was a hard dilemma since it was getting cold and we knew that the nights in the altiplano are generally below freezing temperatures so it wouldn't be pleasant sleeping in the vehicle and here we have a nice cosy room with beds and blankets and no one around for miles to notice we were there. But, since we were not sure if someone would turn up in the early morning, we decided to skip the risky move and instead go to the Pollequere hot springs and sleep in the vehicle.Read more

    • Day 58

      Hot springs in the salt plains

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We decided to go for a walk to see the hot springs. There were hundreds of flamingos in one portion of the slat lake just a few hundred meteres away. There we herds of vicuñas grazing in the grasslands at the edge of the salar. We could also see some of them in the salt plains among the hot springs.
      We walked from one hot spring to another. At some places, the top surface was frozen with ice, indicating that the temperatures had been below freezing in the night.
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    • Day 58

      Flamingos in the Salar lake

      November 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We had been walking around the hot springs for almost 1.5 hrs now. We decided to go to the hot lake where we had seen a lot of flamingos earlier in the morning. When we were still 500 mts from the lake, they started moving away from us. By the time we reached near the lake shore, they were had moved to the other shore. Then in one go in unison, they all rook to the sky. It was an amazing sight. A cloud of red moving in a synchronized movement in one direction. They flew away quite far and didn't return till we were in the region.Read more

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    Colchane

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