• Even the garbage bins dress warm
      Akureyi Main StreetAkureyi botanical gardenPlant life in the gardenAkureyi architectureThe museumAntique MieleInside Nonni's house

      Akureyri

      12–13 Ağu 2024, İzlanda ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Overnight, we briefly sailed north of the Arctic Circle before arriving in Akureyi around seven o’clock on a calm, dry but rather cold morning.

      Iceland’s largest city outside the Capital Region, absolutely heaving with a population of about 20,000, it’s quite a pretty little town, once past the port area - this one with an interesting aroma about it, a heady mix of fertiliser, stale fish and varnish.

      We walked downtown to a very picturesque, pedestrianised main drag. Among its many attractive buildings was the perfect travellers’ facility - a combined hostel, laundromat and Irish Pub, with a kebab shop next door.

      A short walk further on was the immaculately maintained botanical garden, founded in 1910 to beautify the city and, at fifty kilometres below the Arctic Circle, one of the world’s most northerly.

      We walked on past houses of different styles and materials, corrugated iron, pressed tin and concrete among them.

      Finally we came to the Akureyi Museum. It was interesting, with lots of social features on entertainment, shopping and celebrations. Ash Wednesday was a big one; the children would tie ashes on to each other’s backs and “scare a cat out of a barrel”, whatever that entailed. Come to think of it, there were some rather traumatised-looking cats around, too.

      Jon Sveinsson, aka “Nonni”, was a Jesuit Priest and well-known children’s author. His home, one of the oldest in town and built around 1840, has been situated next to the museum and we poked our noses through his stuff on the way out. It was a good experience for us short-statured people, as his house was full of incredibly low doorways and beams.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Alesund

      10–11 Ağu 2024, Norveç ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      We awoke to a view of beautiful pastel-coloured art nouveau buildings, a small port area and a lot of rain.

      A large part of Alesund was destroyed by fire in 1904, and was then rebuilt in a consistent and very attractive style, with the added benefit of sanitation. The town centre is pedestrian-friendly, if cobblestoned, with an irregular street pattern that lends even more interest to it.

      We made our way to Storhaugen, a viewpoint to the west of town looking down on the old harbour area, then clambered down an overgrown trail to the waterfront, with a breakwater and a small lighthouse which now serves as the honeymoon suite for a local hotel.

      Then it was time for some more ten dollar coffees - heaven only know what we’ll do when we have to start paying for food and alcohol on shore as well - before walking a few more blocks and making our way back to the ship. The rain had, of course, finished by the time we were heading back.

      Our departure was at five o’clock, by which time the wind had strengthened and it was not pleasant out on deck.

      As soon as we left the coast we turned north-west toward Iceland, a day and a half’s sailing away. The swell wasn’t very big, but with the strong winds buffeting the twelve storeys of Prima that are above the water there was quite a bit of lurching about going on, both by the ship and the passengers, even some of the sober ones.

      It was too much for Sharon, who sensibly turned in early, and through the night the weather improved so that our sea day was much more gentle.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Sailing up the fjord, around six am, careful steering required
      First views of GeirangerThe ship and its motley crewCascading river and the steps to the Fjord CentreView from the Fjord CentreLast view - about nine pmReturning along Geirangerfjord

      Geiranger

      9–10 Ağu 2024, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      It was an awesome sight, waking early, looking out the window and seeing the cliffs of the fjord towering over the ship as we sailed through the narrow and twisting passage. The weather was threatening, which gave the whole scene an atmosphere of remoteness and unspoilt beauty.

      This was the Geirangerfjord, and at its inner end was Geiranger, a small village of 250 people, about a hundred motor homes and, once we arrived, 3,000 day trippers.

      Naturally, it was raining as we climbed a steep metal staircase alongside a rushing river cascading down the hill. At the top was the Fjord Visitor Centre, with ten dollar coffees and an interesting museum showcasing the people, nature and geology of the remote, UNESCO World Heritage, area. An avalanche in 1934 caused a tsunami sixty metres high in the nearby Tafjord, so nature here is clearly a force to be reckoned with.

      The cliffs of the fjord rise 1,400 metres above the sea in places (and 500 metres below). Therefore we were looking forward to watching our progress back out of the fjord. We were a little disappointed, then, when a group of late returners delayed our nine pm departure. We were then a little more disappointed when the weather closed in and, before we had done our u-turn to get under way, it was pouring. The result was a whole bunch of dark photos and a return to the bar for some more imbibing.

      Our short overnight passage took us to the mouth of the fjord and Allesund, our next destination.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Bergen

      8–9 Ağu 2024, Norveç ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Although it is the second city of Norway with a population of around 290,000, Bergen is a perfect destination for a cruise ship - very scenic and with all its main sights concentrated in quite a small area.

      Add to this World Heritage status for the Bryggen dock area and you have an excellent spot to wander around trying to keep dry in the sporadic rain showers.

      We wandered into town up and down narrow cobblestoned streets, lined with pastel-painted timber houses and looking very nice in the slightly misty atmosphere.

      Then, the Fish Market, or more appropriately, the Fish and Other Yucky Things Market, with whale salami and moose and reindeer meat on sale as well.

      Further around Byfjorden, the neat little inlet surrounded by the old town, was Bryggen, a row of old painted timber warehouses repurposed into tourist traps but picturesque nonetheless. Rebuilt in parts after regular fires, most recently in 1955, they were apparently hammered together by carpenters for whom the ninety-degree angle was a foreign concept.

      In increasingly dodgy weather, we then made our way to the Floibanen, a funicular railway which took us up 300 metres up Mt Floyen, something of an oasis in the city and made up of spectacular views, shops, walking tracks and goats.

      The modern city, a short walk from the old town, is also attractive, with broad streets and squares and some nice buildings.

      Tonight we sail north and enter Geraingerfjord, which should make for some spectacular views for a few days.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Amsterdam Centraal Station
      Attractive building in Dam Square - now a wax museum!Attractive building near Dam Square - now a shopping centre!Salvaged and tastefully refurbished bicycleThe Flower MarketSomething interesting at the Flower Market - don't know whatSome but not all the Amsterdam visitors

      Amsterdam

      6–7 Ağu 2024, Hollanda ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      We have to keep remembering that it’s summer, and the peak of the tourist season. Therefore, everything’s hot and crowded, the hot part being ironic on a cruise to Iceland.

      We kicked off Amsterdam with a cruise of the canals, stuffed into the boat like sardines and, in our case, in the unshaded, stiflingly hot part of the boat. Enough complaining, though, as the trip and the commentary were excellent.

      We sailed up the Prinsengracht Canal, heard about the millions of wooden piles that support the buildings of Amsterdam and admired the crooked buildings that result from holding a building up in soggy ground using wooden piles.

      Then, landed, we made our way up to Dam Square and a most imposing Royal Palace, or at least a Royal Palace covered in most imposing scaffolding. It probably was due for some TLC, mind you, having been built in 1655. The Dutch monarch is well catered for in the palace department, having this and two others to choose from for his digs.

      In order to give some purpose to our wanderings, we then headed to the Flower Market, or, in the season of our visit, the Bulb, Seed and Souvenir Market. Lining a whole block of the Singel Canal, It was crowded with tourists - and, no doubt, pickpockets - and a nice change from the usual canal-side scenery of parked cars and salvaged, muddy, rusty bicycles.

      On our way back, we saw more of the free and easy side of Amsterdam, passing dope shops, “cookie” shops and sex shops in plenty. And this right in the respectable middle of town.

      Before long, our sweaty bodies and aching feet were back on board the ship, ingesting fluids - mainly alcoholic - and getting ready for dinner.

      Our last treat for the day was the passage through the lock, out of the Ij and back into the North Sea. It was incredible to see a hundred thousand tons of steel, plastic and expanding waistlines squeeze into a lock only a few metres wider than the ship without the slightest scrape.

      The days are getting longer - sunrise is at ten to six tomorrow morning and sunset at quarter to nine at night.

      Tomorrow we are at sea, most likely overindulging; the next footprint will be Bergen.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Bruges

      5–6 Ağu 2024, Belçika ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      It was great to arrive yesterday in Southampton and get (a fair bit of) the band back together on board MS Norwegian Prima, the ugly, floating block of flats that is to take us to Iceland.

      Once we got our bearings, found our cabins and totally abused the free drinks packages, we had dinner, fell asleep and awoke ready to visit Bruges.

      Once we had caught the shuttle to town - about a thirty-minute trip - we joined about ten thousand (small exaggeration) other tourists on the well-trodden path around the town, over bridges, through squares and past chocolate shops.

      Even with all the people, it was a beautiful place to see, with its canals winding all around the centre of town. Every bridge, even every glimpse of a canal provides another opportunity for the ten thousand phones, cameras and selfie sticks.

      We walked to the Markt Square, with its Bell Tower dating from 1240 and rows of buildings looking typically Belgian in their stone work and decoration.

      Then, on to the Burg, an enclosed fortress in the tenth century and another attractive town square today before we made our way back past the Dijver, a strip of park alongside the canal, to the Church of Our Lady - with the third tallest brick tower in the world - and finally the the lovely Minniewater Park to our starting point.
      Okumaya devam et

    • The Spinnaker Tower
      HovercraftRyde Pier, 681 metres long and the world's first pleasure pierIsle of Wight, looking back to PortsmouthHMS AllianceCompletely bizarre arcade game, the victim's head lights up when the switch is thrownOn board HMS VictoryHMS Victory gun deckRemaining half of the Mary RoseRemaining half of the Mary Rose's dog

      Portsmouth Hornpipe

      1–4 Ağu 2024, İngiltere ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      We’ve just crammed quite a bit into two-and-a-half days in Portsmouth.

      It was hot for most of our visit, summer school holidays and accordingly crowded, both at the historic attractions and the modern-day parts of the waterfront area.

      These are interspersed, so it was interesting to walk along, one minute passing the futuristic, touristy Spinnaker Tower, the next passing by the Camber, now a small fishing port but originally the site of the first Norman settlement in the area.

      Our walk continued south, past the historic fortifications of Portsmouth Harbour, the occupants being somewhat paranoid about the French. We passed the Round Tower (1426) and the Square Tower (1494) and associated fortifications, then the ruined Domus Dei Royal Garrison Church - founded as a hospice for pilgrims in 1212 - came into very photogenic sight, and from there we walked on to Clarence Pier.

      The pier was first-rate tacky, crowded with tattooed people eating chips and hotdogs between amusement rides.

      Just past the pier was the hovercraft landing stage. The world’s only commercial operating hovercraft service, and the only seagoing craft that requires a pilot’s licence to operate, we saw them come and go frequently as they shuttled back and forth to the Isle of Wight.

      Speaking of which, we took a ferry across to the island for a day of riding around on the bus. It was a pleasant day; we sailed across to Ryde, walked to the shore via its 681-metre pier and did a quick tour of the north-east part of the island. From the slightly elevated interior the views back across to Portsmouth were magnificent; on the island there was some nice coastline and plenty of elegant-if-faded lodges.

      Finally, we spent a day at the Portsmouth Historic Dockyard.

      We took a water bus across to Gosport and toured the WW2 submarine HMS Alliance, for which Sharon, claustrophobic, probably set the record internal bow-to-stern submarine sprint.

      Climbing through the innards of HMS Victory was fascinating, listening to the story of the Battle of Trafalgar as we went. Not listening too intently, though, as there was a constant chance you might bump you head or trip over something.

      Finally, we looked at the Mary Rose, or at least the half a Mary Rose they dug out of The Solent in the 1970’s. It looks all majestic in its dimly lighted, humidity-controlled environment, and each level of the sip is related to artefacts recovered at the same time, including the skeleton of the ship’s dog.

      All in all, we had quite a busy but enjoyable few days before setting sail on our cruise.
      Okumaya devam et

    • London Calling

      29 Tem–1 Ağu 2024, İngiltere ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      After almost fifteen hours on a plane, we hadn’t planned to sit down and relax for over an hour waiting for our bags to appear. However, after a couple of drinks in the fabulous beer garden at our hotel all was forgiven and we were ready to explore.

      Having already seen most of the A-list London attractions on previous visits, we spent the next day walking and looking at things we hadn’t seen before.

      It was a hot day as we walked through Kensington Gardens and down to Leicester Square, complete with statues of Paddington Bear, Harry Potter, Mary Poppins and sundry other stars of stage and screen.

      Then came Trafalgar Square (the first time we had seen it in fine weather, actually) and, across the Jubilee Bridge and along the Thames riverbank, the Tate Modern, in the cleverly repurposed Bankside Power Station.

      We took in the varied art, from the weirdly interesting to what seemed like the template for a Dulux colour card, before a walk up to Leadenhall Market and our return to West Ealing, and our new favourite beer garden.

      Our final London activity was a trip to Hampton Court Palace, dating from 1529 in Henry VIII’s reign, and then hugely extended and modified by William III in the 1690’s.

      Informative audio guides in our ears, we enjoyed the whole experience, from Henry VIII’s bedrooms to his kitchen (complete with fake legs of mutton and a real cooking fire) and from William III’s apartments to the magnificent gardens.

      We then made our way home by way of the River Thames, an interesting few hours cruising down the river through the locks.

      Truth be told, interesting or not, the Thames isn’t exactly the most scenic of rivers. We alternately passed terribly expensive houses and apartments, beached vessels in various stages of disrepair on the muddy riverbank and kids swimming and cavorting in the heat of the afternoon.

      So ended our short London stay. Next stop, Portsmouth.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Hello Tokyo

      27–29 Tem 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

      Our stopover on this trip was Tokyo, where we had a relaxing day amongst the trees and gardens of the city.

      From Shinjuku Station - the world’s busiest, with around four million people passing through a day - it was an easy walk to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, or at least it would have been, had it not been over thirty degrees and steamy.

      We enjoyed the garden, though, especially the beautifully groomed Japanese section, and after a light lunch we sweated our way over to the Meiji Shrine.

      Located in 170 acres of parkland with about 120,000 trees, it was awash with people there either to worship or to have a day out.

      The shrine dates back to 1921, and commemorates the rule of Emperor Meiji who died in 1912. The allies bombed it to bits in the war and it was rebuilt in 1956.

      We took a few pics of the shrine and the barrels of French wine and saki on display - saki barrels are a common shrine decoration but the wine casks symbolise Emperor Meiji’s innovative embracing of foreign concepts and influences - before walking down to the station to get the train back to our hotel. Well, actually, we caught the train back to the airport, because we got on the wrong one. Otherwise, though, we had a great - if stifling - day in Tokyo.

      Our local area was quite picturesque, too.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Kota Kinabalu (2) and recap

      16 Nisan 2024, Malezya ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      After the early starts and sticky rainforest and bouncy, hard boat seats it was great to arrive back in KK, still sticky, of course, but looking forward to a few days of idleness.

      We stayed on the waterfront, with the islands of the Turku Abdul Raman Marine Park just offshore, and the most incredible sunsets, although it took a few days before we got out of the bar in time to see one.

      With Grab (the Malaysian Uber) cheap and efficient, it was a simple matter to venture downtown for shopping or dinner.

      After we had been here for three days, we got news of the eruption of Mt Ruang, a volcano on an island to the east of Sabah. Winds sent the ash our way, causing flights from KK to Kuala Lumpur to be cancelled. The hotel filled up as people had to extend their stays; some people were advised that the next available flight for re-booking was not for a week.

      As it turned out, we weren’t affected, and all too soon we were heading for home, with some great memories in tow.

      With an amazing and unique set of wild animals, and beautiful places and settings from which to see them, culture and history ranging from head hunters through to the Second World War, and mostly very friendly and helpful people, Sabah proved to be a great destination. Plus it’s reasonably cheap!

      Of course, the trip wouldn’t have been anywhere as good without Steve and Kim, travel companions par excellence! Great experiences are always better when shared with good friends and loved ones!
      Okumaya devam et

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