• Dog Walker
Mar – Jul 2023

Sentiero Italia 2023

Sentiero Italia / Va Sentiero with a dog ( 2023 - Nobo)
We start in Sicily the Via Francigene di Sicilia to Trapani first.
https://sentieroitalia.cai.it
https://www.vasentiero.org
https://lighterpack.com/r/263eia
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  • H-Day 28

    April 21, 2023 in Italy

    Today it is lots of gravel road walking. Nobody around. Yesterday evening, close to the wind wheels, there have been here and there some Jeeps driving slowly these rocky gravel roads. But now further on is nobody. Sunny today, but cold wind again.
    You can see sea on the left and right side. Both costs. Once, you have already seen the main land.

    But walking this road is just making miles.. Not too interesting and I think in summer this would be very hot. The gravel on the road is too rough. Lupo has problems with his paws with this ground. So he wants to stop often. Now we still have about 6km left to a cabin. Let's see what it exactly is.
    After that, it is one more long day to Messina, I guess.
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  • H-Day 29 Dinnammare / Messina

    April 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Finally we've reached Dinnammare/Messina.
    It was hard for dog, cause of these long gravel roads with bigger and sharper gravel. Hard for the paws. But somehow he managed it.
    I ran out of food and mobile battery. But luckily at the end I chatted with a Swiss couple (traveling around the world) and they have charged my phone in the campervan. nice.

    Somehow I have met much more people the last 24h. Probably I am just closer to the city.
    Simon camped in my trail. He hikes a part of the SentieroItalia in opposite direction. So we've chatted and camped one night together. I hope he will have good weather of her Congress closer to Etna.
    Just a bit later I've met a Miriam. A Canadian trail runner checking out the SI for hiking. We've chatted a long time. Nice to be able to talk after that period of silence.
    And finally there was a Norwegian couple passing by. So we've talked in English for awhile. Very friendly people. I loved all these conversations.

    Just before I have found a restaurant (Pizzaria) on the way and decided to eat my first real Pizza in Sicily. Send to me I have been the first customer. It has been so quiet 30 min ago. Now during eating my huge pizza, people come like crazy. Busy place on Saturday night.

    51.000 steps - 39km
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  • Pistachio, Fondente & kind of lemon (Calabria) {in a brioche}The SentieroItalia sign with the stages (Aspromonte)It is Sunday... Sunny.... People walk in the city and the beach promenade

    Reggio Calabria

    April 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We are on mainland again! Just in time we've arrived at the ferry and have had no problems at all.
    The ferry took about 30 min. I could charge the phone and suddenly you are arrived. Cool.

    First stop, playground with water for Lupo.

    Second stop...Gelateria Cesare... Best ice cream in Calabria (for Michael)
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/QDc2yyz9vAsCcbee8
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  • Altra Superior 5
    For 1000km mixed train pretty goodAt the big toe and on the side the mesh starts to fail. Kept longer than everybody thoughtInside in the shaft I put a soft tape, cause the socks started to dig holesThe T-shirt get hikes where the backpack sits

    Statistic Sicily - Altra Superior review

    April 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    - 30 days
    - 1.400.000 steps (I must still just calculate the exact number)
    - ~1031 Km
    (Guesses: gravel & dirt road 50%, single trail 15%, paved roads 25%, sand / beaches 10%)
    - 1 pair of trail runners
    - 1 pair of socks
    - 1 T-Shirt
    - 330 € spent.... Just on food... Mostly supermarket, bars and bakeries

    ---

    Review of the Altra Superior 5 after these 1000km:
    It's an interesting shoe. At first you think the upper soft mesh does not last long. But actually because it is so soft, you don't get these folding failures between the shoe laces and the toes. But on the other side I realize, that it gets broken from the inside. The big toe hits the mesh. That's one spot where it gets broken slowly. I cook not avoid it. Dad, that they have not just made the plastic at the toes a bit bigger. So easy solution and not proper made.
    The same on the inside part of the mesh, connected to the Eva sole. The water gets out there will, but this will be the next part weich will fall apart . The leaving and heel part is fine. A bit loose for me, but okay. Soft, flexible. I like it. That's what the shoe makes comfortable. With the gaiters it worked well, but a fixture of the heater in the front would be nicer. Like the Lone Peak 5 has had, I guess.

    The sole... Oh my god! I thought the Michelin sole of the Salewa Lite Train is not the best... But this one tops it like nothing.
    The profile is... shit... way too slippery. Not on rocks and dry ground. But wet or muddy etc.... forget it. I don't know if the wide sole is necessary. At least it is flexible. I have not used the rock plate. I've tried it with medium size stones. Hmmm...I think I don't need it. But the toe spacers with the rock plate was less. Definitely. And I Don't like that.
    That's the reason why I wanted to use the Altra shoes. The wide toe box. And that's a real plus. It really helps me on these long distances. I have much less problems with cramps in the toe area and it feels just will, even after a long day.
    But you really don't have much stability medial and lateral. If the ground descends lateral, it doesn't work well.

    Actually I can not understand trail runners who love that fit. Only on a good trail or is okay. But on uneven trails...no way.

    On muddy ground the shoe is terrible. The mud sticks like crazy and does not remove by itself easily at all. Not recommended under these circumstances. But not bad of you walk through water pools. The water really drains well.

    Altra should probably also use a Vibram Mega Grip sole with a different design. That could give more trust in difficult terrain.
    On the other side, the rubber is probably hard enough too give the shoe some milage. I mean after mixed conditions and 1000km and still some profile on it.... That's not bad at all! I am curious how it performs until 1500km.

    So all in all, I have mixed feelings. But there are definitely ready solutions to improve that shoe.
    I have paid on sale only 60€ and this was a great deal. For the list price... No way! That's not worth.

    After this one, I will try the first time the Altra Lone Peak 6, which I got on sale too a similar price. I am curious how much it differs.
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  • Conclusion & recommendation Sicily

    April 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After this Sicily loop I have been often thinking about, what I did like and what would I do different. How did I like this trip so far and what would I recommend somebody else to do.

    Well... It is hard to say. I have done two Via Francregina and the SentieroItalia. The SentieroItalia did not convinced me if I see it as one piece. But parts of it I could recommend. Why? Too much road and gravel road walking. Too less changes on the way. Probably a long part is just too similar to an easy walk in Austria or Germany. The best stages on the SI ? Definitely the first ones on the west side. Starting from Trapani, the coast, Zingaro Park and a little bit further. Madonie I can recommend too. Nebrodi on dry conditions it can be nice too. All these wild pigs and first walking. Hiking below the wind mills for lots of miles was not my thing.

    The Via Francigena Fabaria I liked this most. I would start the loop on this one and at the official start. Follow this route, but probably would try to enhance it with a southern part. To include the Syracuse area. More people recommended it.
    I would follow that Via until Agrigento and switch not to the VF Mazarense like I did. Instead I would hike the Magna VF. This one is pretty common and good marked. But I would try to not do it completely and get on one point to the west. To Trapani. And walk then the SentieroItalia the first stages. Erice, down to the beach, Riserva Naturale Zingaro to Scopello and further. And switch afterwards to the VF Palermo-Messina per le motagne. This trail passes more villages I think. And that could give the whole thing more charme I guess.

    Yeah, that's it.
    So hike it by yourself and see how you like it!
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  • Aspro marathon

    April 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Still nice and easy trail. A little bit on road and then on single trail or a bit wider through the forest. Ascending, but easy to walk. Quiet in the forest and you can listen sometimes to the water (creek) and mostly all the time you can enjoy the singing birds.
    Crossing the creek gives Lupo to drink and cold him down.
    Lots of shadow too her.
    It must be a nice marathon the Aspro Marathon.

    I just googled the marathon and realized, it is a MTB race. Not a trail run. Looks pretty cool .. Especially if I have seen now the area. Cool trail
    https://youtu.be/HK1ijQdt1YM
    https://aspromarathon.it/
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  • Coffee in Gambarie

    April 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We've reached the ski resort just before noon (11:30).
    The last stretch was road walking, but still through the forest. They also have fountains asking the way and simple rest areas.
    So all in all this was a nice stage. Not hard at all, like I have heard before. It is it just because we are from the slots and used to different grades of mountain hiking!? Well, there is still the next stage going up to Montalto and down to San Luca (2 Stages I guess) but we are good in time. Lupo liked to have the rest now, but me, a coffee and some food and I am fine again.
    The Italian restaurant makes s very good impression to me. Young people, good music and nice atmosphere.

    11:30am - 33500 steps already - 25km - (~1500hm+ shown in gps track, but I guess 1200hm+)

    The further way up to Montalto looks snow free from below and everything forest. So seems to me it is not rocky or kind of Alpine. The waiter just have said they have here the Scirocco wind. That means it is warmer than in Sicily. So should be snow free. But San Luca is still 1h by car. No idea how long by foot.

    Let's see. Let's walk...
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  • Montalto - snow - very long day

    April 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Hiking up to Montalto was fine the first kilometers. Nice forest walking. Until I hit the ski piste and the snow started. First you have to hike straight uphill. Quite an ascend. I thought this must be at least a red (medium) piste. Climbing about 1/3 of it, the SI turns into the forest again. The trail full of snow. Somebody walked before further up the piste. So I double checked the map and decided to do the same. Hike up to the lift and walk almost flat along the paved road up to Montalto.
    Probably it is easier in the snow.
    Up the hill, I've seen the winter sign. It was a black piste. Hmmm...
    All in all, I think it was a good decision. But the stretch was just too long and in the afternoon the snow is so soft, that your lower leg is often completely in the snow. Hard and cold walking. It cost me and Lupo lots of energy. I have not looked it up, but I guess this has been snow walking for about 10km. It took us lots of time. And my feet got so cold, that they started to hurt. Especially the last part and on the way down. First it was possible to slide down s little bit. Which was easy. And I thought there must be a packed snow in my shoe. It hurt. I stopped and looked into the shoe... No, there was nothing. The feet was so cold, that the hard ground hurt with every hit. Finally the snow got less and a tricky single trail started. That was the way down to Polsi. And all this actually started at about km 30 I guess. The tiredness got slowly more and more. But almost running down the single trail earned up my feet again and I was happy to teach the monastery Polsi at about km 48. Unfortunately they have sheep and thus also 3 or 4 kettle dogs. The big ones. One spoted us and started to bark. And the others came around the corner. 2 men there tried to calm them down and chase them, but actually that worked only temporarily. So I just walked thru and started even the next stage to San Luca. In hope too find pretty fast a spot to sleep.
    A friend has earned me about that stage. And really .. The path got small and was full of trees and branches. And this around km 49 and 19:15.
    Every 100m took us forever and it got dark. I've tried to find a flat spot on the map. If we reached it, it was actually not flat. The way did not open. You are in the forest on a step decent to the side and down a river. Often the path was broken. Lots of climbing over trees etc.
    Finally at 20:30 and km 52 I decided to sleep on the trail, covered by trees. In hope that it does not rain at night and that the wind is not so strong that more branches fall down.
    It was no silent night.... Lupo was kind of nervous. He woke me up at 5am straight. I think he was really thirsty.

    70.800 steps - 52.1km

    Alternative VaSentiero stages
    (lower elevation, shorter, probably better to walk):
    https://www.vasentiero.org/stage/rifugio-bianco…
    https://www.vasentiero.org/stage/piani-di-zervo…
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  • Follow the river from Polsi to SanLuca

    April 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After spending the night on the trail (sleeping), we started at 6am again. I thought it gets better after all this climbing over trees.
    Well, there are other obstacles. Thorns. Prickly plants like raspberry etc. All over the way. Alternatively walking on the rocks of a river bed and crossing all the time the river. Actually at the end it was the better choice.
    New signs on the way, but not always markings. Hard to find the best way through. A friend got hurt on this stretch and I don't wonder actually.
    Lupo got hurt on a toe nail. I have seen the blood. No idea if it is new and he got it today or not. Shit. Let's see how bad it would be or if it is no big deal.

    VaSentiero has an alternative route from Gambarie. 2 Stages. And they are on lower elevation and even shorter. Sadly I have not chosen this variation. I think they knew what they do
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  • Pietra Cappa - the highest monolith in Europe - 100m walls

    Casello San Giorgio / Pietra Cappa

    April 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After the last 3 stages we've got a bit tired. Lupo slept a lot in the afternoon and I've enjoyed the coffee and ice cream in a bar in San Luca.
    The whole next stage with quite a few elevation meters are too much for the dog today. Especially with his paws right now.
    So I decided to walk half of it and stay around the lowest elevation. That's approximately half of it and had a water fountain. We've reached that place and it got really windy. Some pics were crying like crazy and done cows shouting. The few chores passed us and looked at us quite nervous. So we've enjoyed dinner. The wind and temperatures got uncomfortable. I looked on the map and decided to walk into the forest to find protection and s better, not so rocky, ground.
    After some meters uphill, there was a sign to the Castello San Giorgio. I looked at it and it seemed to me it is from the CAI. The map is down at the entrance. Seems public. Tomorrow morning it could rain a little bit. So we stay overnight with protection of the house.

    36.300 steps - 26.1km
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  • Cold and long day

    April 26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Such a cold and windy day today. After some ascending we've been in the clouds. Dog everywhere and wet. No hard trail, except so many branches on the trail. I've damaged the second gaiters.
    The weather forecast was really sunny. And finally I was almost freezing. So strong gusts. Especially on the mountain ridge.
    All the hiking had been in the forest. And after the beginning it was mostly completely flat. You are alone with the wildlife in the forest. No bar, no cafe, nothing.. .
    Just before I filled up some food in a very small village. And charged the phone a little bit. Now I am searching for a spot to sleep. Lupo is very tired.
    We are around 45km now. Time to rest!

    63.000 steps - 47.3km
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  • BivaccoLupo having fun

    Fabrizia

    April 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We've woke up with luck. The sleeping place we have chosen was right. No fog and the sun came already through. Walking back on the trail there has been fog again. If you hike on the ridge, it probably really depends which side you go down. The weather is not always the same on each side.

    So it was another first walk. Not really special. But most times nice ground and you walk all the time alone. We needed to cross lots of creeks. There is really a lot of water everywhere. You do not need to carry much.

    The sausages and cheese I have bought in Canolo yesterday have been very spicy and salty. It tastes not bad, but it is not really the best hiking food. The cheese gets also greasy if it gets warm. It is a mess to handle it.

    We've made it to Fabria quite good in time. So I decided to hike into it and go shopping for dog food especially. The mini supermarket has not had it. But she was speaking s but German and organized it. The Ferramenta (hardware) sie in town has had it. So I got 2kg. I must remember. Probably it is in other villages the same

    Now I have found a nice modern Cafe and charge the phones. So I can do an early start tomorrow again.

    54.000 steps - 41km
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  • When will the next tree fall?
    Bivacco or Baita !?

    On the way to Serra San Bruno

    April 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today had been a nice sunny day. So forest walking. I haven't taken almost any pictures. It is just the same. The path had been a first road or sometimes a trail. Easy. A great day for relaxing. After having had a coffee and ice cream in the morning in Montana, I started chatting with a friend and actually calling her and chatting for an hour. Another hiking hour later, I've met a Hermon fellow sitting in the sun, eating and chatting. Lupo always used the break to sleep and rest.
    Normally we've wanted to hike into Serra San Bruno. The timing would be better. 40km after that village, there is another village with the last small supermarket, where I need to buy food for 3-4 days. Sunday here shops are closed and Monday is a holiday. And bigger supermarkets who have open in the morning will we not approach soon anymore.
    So 8km before San Bruno we stopped in the forest at a small stable. 7pm. So we slept early.
    9pm Lupo suddenly growled. A dog about 50m away started to bark. It was already dark! Here in the middle of nowhere a dog arrived at night! Lupo laid down again. So did I. I just did the same as my dog. The result was that the other dog barked for about 30min. But he did not approached us. Then it stopped. I knew he is still around. The barking started only a few times at night. So all in all it was fine. Actually at the end I have not seen that dog even once.

    38.000 steps - 28.5km
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  • Serra San Bruno

    April 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today morning we've hiked into this village. In comparison to the villages before we've found much more shops and life. A bigger supermarket. So i decided to buy food for 4-5 days. The weather forecast is pretty bad and not really many possiblities to shop will be on my way. It is a Coop 3.0
    Oh okay.... Version 3 must be great.... Well, the choice of goods is fine. The prices...well... So so

    But I can charge my phones, do the shopping and go to toilet. A nice bakery have had fantastic fresh food for me and a marcellaria had had fantastic food for Lupo. Now it is fine to walk the long distance....
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  • Monte Cucco - slow speed, heavy backpack

    April 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Wow... There backpack world all that food is heavy and slows me down. Especially uphill in the sun. The shoulders hurt. My water is empty and here are right now no streams or creeks. Only water puddles for Lupo. At least he can drink.
    From far away I already see the next wind park. It could be that I soon will walk the wind mills again.

    A little bit strange is, that the trail is not marked anymore. I just hike the gps track. No signs either. I guess it must be a different CAI section here.
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  • Sleeping in the forest

    April 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    About 6 to 7pm Lupo started to stop again and again. He is tired. And I wanted to pass the wind mills and walk to the next fountain or a good water source on the way. Because I haven't had any and have been really thirsty. Lupo needs water after his dry food or even at night. The map shows a short detour to a fountain and lake. A house next to it. Probably a Bivacco. No idea. But still 5-6km to walk. Suddenly the SI leaves the forest road down and.... We can listen to the water from a creek.
    A pretty flat place deep in the forest with some small off-road paths intersecting here.
    We stopped for drinking and having dinner. And I finally decided to stay here. Normally I avoid staying next to water, but seems not to me that this small creek makes the surrounding much colder. It doesn't feel like it now. And if the tarp will have more condense tomorrow morning ..I will see.
    Mostly no wind right now and I think the forecast predicts no rain. The raining starts tomorrow during the day.

    And now, pitched the tarp and setup for the night and rest, I remember Benedict.
    Benedict from the Coop supermarket today. We've started to chat. He is s black African fellow, caring for everything in and around the supermarket. Collecting the trolleys together or helping the customers to carry their heavy goods into the car.
    He started to talk in english and asked about the journey. During the packing of my goods into the backpack and charging the phone, I was sitting on a bank next to the entrance of the supermarket. I have seen him again and again helping people.
    And now in the thinking, I still can smile about his friendliness and happiness. Even having not a high end job and still enjoying it. Talking with people and helping them. He has had a really nice aura. Nice to meet these kind of people!

    Same with the Franziskaner monk from Villagio Limina. But that's another story by itself :)

    And now, I can listen to the owl again. So often in the evening/night the last days in the forest.

    43.000 steps - 32km
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  • Girifalco

    April 30, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The night in the first was perfect. Warm enough. No wind. No disruption. No condense. Fine. Almost as good as I wanted to stay. But we moved on anyway...

    Girifalco. Just before the rain will start...