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Sentiero Italia 2023

March - July 2023
Sentiero Italia / Va Sentiero with a dog ( 2023 - Nobo)
We start in Sicily the Via Francigene di Sicilia to Trapani first.
https://sentieroitalia.cai.it
https://www.vasentiero.org
https://lighterpack.com/r/263eia Read more
  • 189footprints
  • 2countries
  • 104days
  • 1.4kphotos
  • 4videos
  • 6.7kkilometers
  • 4.9kkilometers
  • 1.0kkilometers
  • 7sea miles
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  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    1
    Day 14

    H-Day 12 - the plains (Mazara)

    April 4, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    We've left 5:20am the stall at the motor sport area. Luckily the wind and rain has gone the evening before. So we've had a quiet night, except once, Lupo were barking. Seems to me, a stray dog has passed by. I haven't seen anybody and haven't heard anything.
    In the morning I decided to skip the Lidl supermarket at the next town, because of the early time. We would needed to wait until opening. If we take the direct way to Mazara, it is s long way, but I need to carry only a very lightweight backpack and buy new food and water there. And we can use time much more efficient.

    The first 10k have been fine and easy.. Then slowly it got harder and harder. The whole way has been flat. A plain with olive fields and later Vine yards. Some higher and lower plastic fields (no idea what's grown inside. The plants are still small.)
    Finally we've arrived in town and we needed to cross next to the beach a big bridge over a river (Fiume Arena). I think it is not our lucky day. The bridge was closed and a too late arrival. The workers already began to work. No way that I could discuss with them too cross. There has been security too. Not Italian style at all. It was easy and no problem to cross, but because of the time, they did not let me cross. That's the moment I got angrier and angrier. The next bridge is by foot quite a bit away. And I really got hungry. We wanted to arrive after 21km at the supermarket. No way. So I decide to put the shoes off and walk with Lupo thru the shallow (20-30cm) beach water. But it was full of seagrass, which the sea wash ashore. 50-60 cm of dark sea grass. Smelling a bit. Me barefoot in the water and also walking on that sea grass. Lupo swimming behind. The bridge next to me. The water had been fresh. But not ice cold.
    After this crossing, the supermarket on my map hasn't been at that location we expected. Frustration set in.
    So I've looked for another one. Another 1.5km. okay.... Let's walk.
    And like always... Stray dogs were waiting for us in front of the supermarket. Cool. Some shouts and freighting gestures of myself to these dogs and they started to hide.
    Shopping, feeding, eating, packing.... And hike further into the center. Busy on the roads. But not too many people around. It got chilly, cause the wind got more again. Clouds appear more. So we've looked for a cafe to charge the phones. I think to the next town it will take awhile. Looks far away on the map and probably only holiday honey on the way. Thus, stores can be closed in of season.
    35.000 steps so far.... Lupo rests. And I enjoy the coffee.

    ---
    58.800 steps - 44km    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    Day 15

    H-Day 13 Marsala - end of Via Mazarese

    April 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We've reached Marsala. The west side of Sicily.

    445km so far.

    The last 10km it was mostly walking on a busy small street along the coast. 10k before, we were hiking on a sandy piste next to the sea. The really strange thing yesterday evening had been that it has been quiet for awhile. At about 19:00 it started that more and more small cars appeared on these roads. Driving slowly, and people starring quiet strange. Driving fore and back. In circles. Actually I was looking for a sleeping spot and then this strange thing. My only guess was that these are tourists in cheap rental cars looking for the best location to view the sunset. But still after sunset, there have been quite a few of them around. Much more busy as usual. But we've finally found an old half constructed building to get some protection from wind and rain.

    The idea had been to get up at 4:30 and start walking 12k to the next town, before it starts raining and having thunderstorm. I got up, packed everything together and wanted to start. But Lupo refused. He couldn't walk well and I think he has seen the lightning far away on the horizon. He is afraid of thunderstorms. So I decided to unpack everything again, have breakfast and lay down. And the thunderstorm arrived 2h later. At 10:30 I woke up again and the sun was out. Even the forecast has predicted rain until 13:00.
    Now it was time to leave. It took awhile until Lupo got warm and could walk almost normally. Always if he is cold he limps more or less. Scary.
    But it worked out and we could make the boring road to Marsala. Actually not so far away you can see two islands. Both mountainous. From the map, it must be Favignana (Isole Egadi) and Isola di Marritimo.

    Now we try to find a wind protected place and rest.

    Actually here our trip on the Via Francregina Mazarense ends. Normally it is heading inland now to Palermo. But we will stay at the beach (road) hiking to Trapani. It is the western starting point in Sicily for the Sentiero Italia, which we actually want to hike. A long distance joining path through Italy from the CAI (Club Alpino Italia).. It got famous singer years ago where there young people have created this idea. But then it got forgotten until 3 years ago. Where since other young people created a project called Va Sentiero. A crowd funding project. They've hiked in groups the whole trail, documented a lot and I think they've also marked a bit. It is not always 100% identical. But mostly they have a nice webpage which is made like a travel guide.
    www.vasentiero.org
    You can watch there some YouTube videos about the different areas of Italy. Short clips.

    Now, walked huge parts of the via Francigena Fabaria and Mazarense I can conclude that the Fabaria is much more worth to hike. Better signed, much more interesting and scenic. More variations.
    The Magna Via Francigena from Palermo to Agrigento should be a nice but more "crowded" one. It would be possible to combine it with the via Fabario and hike to Mount Etna. Probably a nice solution too.

    But our intention is the mountainous SI. Which will be more demanding and remote. Unfortunately now in April also colder. But that's something we can not really influence.

    37.300 steps - 28.3km    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    1
    Day 16

    H-Day 14 to Trapani / Erice

    April 6, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    We've slept pretty comfortable in a seller stall next to the sea and a one way road. Traffic was like nothing after 22:00. And we have been nicely protected from the strong wind and rain. The start in the morning was still fine. On the road and cycling path directly next to the sea. But after a short while we needed to head inland to Trapani. A long and boring walk along very busy roads. Lupo has had problems with his right front leg again. And it is normally not good on rough gravel and sealed roads. He needs soft ground. But we slowly made our way further. Stopped in a gasoline station cafe only briefly. For a short part back from the road on a trail a sheep herd passed us. Normally no problem. But one of the 4 white big dogs got more aggressive to us. The sheltered just called only a little bit. You are most times alone with the situation. We managed it and soon we've been in the city. Hard to find a good way to the supermarket and back out of e city again.

    From here the first climb to Erice begins. A tourist village on a hill next to the city. Nice view from up there. We've tried to make breaks in the sun on the way up. But most times it has been just too windy. Ice cold wind. After one break we've started again and accidentally Francesco hiked next to us. A nice guy from Torino. CAI member too. We've chatted in English up the hill and enjoyed in the famous and tourist busy Pasticceria Maria Grammatico some cookies and a coffee.
    Time flied and it got even colder in the shady stony streets of Erice. One tourist shop after the other. Prices raises. So I haven't taken any photos and headed the SI down immediately. Overgrown path... Oh... Strange that the trail is not so we'll maintained at the beginning.
    Looking for a sleeping spot, I've seen on the signed map two chapels and one shelter on the way down. The chapels have been too old and not really nice. So I looked for the shelter. But I've found a donkey farm. So many paddocks with single and grouped donkeys. Brown ones and medium to taller size. Where I expected the shelter has been a big stall for further Asini. We wanted to stay somewhere there, but we've realized that in the stable are probably the male donkeys. And a female donkey escaped somehow and the males got really loud and nervous of she passed. And she did often. So we went further in the darkness and found a better spot a bit later. Finally.... Cause I realize my legs are a bit better, but Lupo needs more rest. We need to slow down and make a longer break somehow.
    Not that easy, cause shops get much less now. We'll walk more remote and the next days Easter is approaching. The rare supermarkets have will be closed I guess.

    51700 steps - 38 km    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    1
    Day 17

    H-Day 15 - second stage on SI

    April 7, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    After a night with lots of donkey sounds we started at darkness walking slowly down the hill back to the sea. Aleays along the shore, mostly on a cycle path. Some joggers around.

    Actually, since Erice I realize that more people start to great. Interesting. And additionally the villages look cleaner and more renovated houses. You get a nicer view of Sicily.

    Now we just stopped in Custonaci for a coffee and heading to the supermarket afterwards. Slowly. I will look today more for Lupos condition and will give him more breaks. It is easier if we are not on so big roads anymore and if the weather is fine. Let's see what the day will bring.    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    121
    Day 17

    H-Day 14_2 nice sunny day

    April 7, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The day got gorgeous. Sunny, not much wind, friendly people on the way and an interesting rocky path above a little pass. Noticable that everything next to the trail is blooming nicely and colorful. And great views today.Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    121
    Day 17

    H-day 14_3

    April 7, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    After the last beach walking we hiked above Passo del Lupo. A nice spot to view in 2 directions. There is a small shelter up there, but it was too cold and windy. So we decided to walk 400hm down and there are a fire bivaccos. Luckily one was open. Not very clean but still fine. I think the night will be cooked and it is good to stay inside.

    47200 steps - 35km    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    13
    Day 18

    H-Day 15 Zingaro & Scopello

    April 8, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    It gets more remote with less mobile signal. But if we pass a small village like Scopello it gets much more touristy. You see it's cleaner and more foreigners are walking around.

    In the morning I have left the Zingaro Park entrance. Interesting.... From the side I have entered was no sign at all, which I realized. Immediately an office left the cashier (yrs, you have to pay entrance fee) and talked to me. Because of the dog! Oh....I wondered. No sign before anyway. He said it is not allowed in the park. Well, I've asked him if this can be in many parks on the SentieroItalia. Then he replied... Ah.. If you walk the SentieroItalia, you just walk. No problem (with the dog). Kind of exception. Nice! I love it, if people are enthusiastic about their trail.Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    Day 18

    H-Day 15 on the way to Alcamo

    April 8, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Every place is busy cause of Easter. At the water fountain/spring we've filled up water and have had a break. It takes not 5
    Min and one car after the other stops, packs out 20l canisters and fill up to 100l of water each. Well... This water must be "molto bueno".

    Today we have a warm day, but again with fresh wind. Still... My dog has problems with the heat. But at least there is much more water and creeks on the north side of the island. It feels more green. Less blooming. Less dry ground.

    The trail is really more up and down now. Sometimes road, sometimes gravel 4wd road, sometimes nice soft soil path.

    We try to reach Alcamo today. For shopping in the evening. But seems to me we are too slow. Tomorrow is Easter Sunday and everything is closed. Just before people have told me, that Monday is no holiday here. Sounds good regarding shopping groceries.

    46300 steps - 34.7km    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    Day 19

    H-Day 16 Alcamo & further (EasterSunday)

    April 9, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This was a shit night. No rain or just a drizzle at 1am was predicted. The dogs paws have made problems yesterday afternoon and evening. We switched to paved roads. It hasn't been much traffic and it was not much longer on the road. But he could walk easier without stepping on so many small stones.
    This resulted in finding harder a camping spot. So we have hidden behind a small stall some meters away from the road. The ground has been cemented. And I could not pitch the tarp well.
    So the drizzle arrived much earlier at night and the next morning hours it started to get windy and immediately started to rain a lot. We got partly wet and have had panic. Especially at the moment the thunderstorm started, still in the dark, we packed everything into the backpack. Shit if everything is wet. The weather forecast still predicted sunny weather. The sky has been still full of clouds.
    Walking further on the road it was okay with Lupo.
    5k further a dog started to bark. Some others set in too. We walked further until I realized the barking gets closer. They formed a pack of stray dogs and followed us on the main road. A pack of about 7 dogs barking and running behind us. Sometimes I needed to chase them and they turned around. Not for long and they followed us again.
    It took about 1-2km until I really was successful.
    So annoying.

    Finally arriving in Alcamo, all supermarkets I walked to have had closed. And they are outside the city and it is always a detour to walk. So we headed to the center. Suddenly a shepherd dog ran in the city toward us pretty fast. I tried to avoid that he comes close. No way. Even the bamboo stick did not impress him. He sniffed to Lupo and started immediately to bite. Again! I hated it. Like always I started to shout and this time I started to use the bamboo. It broke immediately. But I could chase him. I was so angry. And what happened!? The female owner of the dog appeared at a corner. Ways too late. So it was just a normal dog with such a behavior. And the woman only talked a bit to her dog. Normally I should have shout at her too.

    Some streets further a dark skinned foreigner approached me. Wanted to have lots of money because of whatever. I could not understand his Italian language. It took awhile until he disappeared. We tried to get an overview and went into a cafe. And... He was in there too. Drinking coffee. This poor man!

    In the bar, I got the information that today everything is closed. But tomorrow supermarkets will be open. So 40km further will be a possibility to get some food. Hopefully Lupo can walk that far.    Read more

  • TravelerSentiero Italia 2023
    Day 19

    H-day 16_2 crossing Meadows

    April 9, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We've ran with the wind across so many meadows. Cows are grazing and also some sheep herds. We pass some farms... Gates open, sure. It doesn't matter if a herd or a farm....always 2-8 dogs start to bark and run to you. Barking.... Same same, just different...I hope that this does not have a bad end.
    I am not sure if all the dogs actually belong to the sheltered. Seems to me he has only 1 or 2. All the others are probably stray dogs joining the herd.

    Sometimes it is nice, you have a view to the sea. And Palermo probably. Lots of olive trees and Vineyards. Some other fruit trees too. But most trees just start to bloom. I thought that they are much further in season. So there is not that huge difference to further north.

    50700 steps - 38.5km    Read more

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