• Dog Walker
Mar – Jul 2023

Sentiero Italia 2023

Sentiero Italia / Va Sentiero with a dog ( 2023 - Nobo)
We start in Sicily the Via Francigene di Sicilia to Trapani first.
https://sentieroitalia.cai.it
https://www.vasentiero.org
https://lighterpack.com/r/263eia
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  • Our view tonight

    Almost at the cape

    May 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we've chatted more often with other German hikers on a similar trail. Even PCT experienced ones. Nice to exchange experiences.
    I've planned to sleep on a summit closer to the cape, but there was a flat and green spot with a table before the summit. And it is more protected here. There weather forecast predicts s but rain around 8-9pm.
    So we stay here, and Lupo loves the grass. Me not... Too often I've felt my allergy. From here it is about 1h to the cape to hike I guess. So we hope for good weather tomorrow and explore it in the morning.

    43.500 steps - 31.6km
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  • Punta Campanella

    May 26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We've done the last 3 km at 6am in the morning and went further on, heading to Sorrento.
    The light house is not really special. I was not sure how far I will walk down.. Just hard for the knees. But finally we've done it almost to the lighthouse. There is no real beach what i have seen. The beach we've had yesterday :)

    I don't have the exact number of km right now. But roughly 2050 to 2100km from the start close to Catania.
    So 1000km the loop in Sicily and another 1000km from Reggio Calabria to Cape Campanella.

    Wow...

    And... Still on the first pair of shoes! I carry now 1000km a new pair of shoes... Just because the first pair lasts so much longer then anybody expected. Now it is time to change to the new pair, actually. Let's see...
    This soft Altra Superior 5 ...Incredible...
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  • 2000km on the Altra Superior 5

    May 26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Unbelievable...

  • In the background Monte Vergine. We will hike up later.

    Back on track....Avellino

    May 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Yesterday evening was stress. The trains have had a strike. Everything looked fine at first. 1 bus to Sorrento (during thunderstorm), a small train to Pompeei, one trenitalia train further and switching train to Mercato San Severino.
    During this switch I have had 20 min and really ordered in that time a pizza margarita at the restaurant closer to the station. They calm me down... Easily they can do it in time.
    And really 5 min and I've got it.
    Walked back to the station and got the message that my train is cancelled. It was the last one. Shit...
    I've seen just before closing does another train heading to Salerno. I've hopped inside and some minutes later I have been in the huge city. On the evening. Oh... Busy. Noise.
    I realized the last bus I can probably catch. Cause of traffic jams. And really...I got it and it worked out with the dog and actually because of stress the bis driver did not charge me. And we could get a lift 2 villages further. Too Piano. So we hiked in the darkness out of town and have searched for a camping spot.
    Tomorrow morning we've walked for the second time to Contrada and further on to Avellino. Where we are now. We need to shop food for the next days. Pfingsten is tomorrow and Monday. No ideas about opening times here in Italy. Easter, Sunday was closed and Monday open. Except the bars. They have had open on Sunday and Monday closed.

    Ah... And I have problems with my feet. My soles are a bit wound and swollen. Being so long in wet shoes has probably removed a lot of dead skin. And now it rubs all the time. So today I switched socks and to the new pair of shoes. I need to try it out gets better.
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  • Montevergine (sanctuary)

    May 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Pretty hot today to hike up. Groups come from above. Pfingsten is close.
    There are dark clouds from time to time. So it could be that a thunderstorm approaches... Hard to say. The forecast is dry for the villages on the plain below.Read more

  • Short day...Closed Bivacco

    May 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We've hiked not long after the sanctuary. But nicely through the forest with lots of leaves. Lupo loves the soft ground again.
    So we stop to rest a bit longer. It is sunny with clouds from time to time but there is still a fresh wind.
    Three Refugio or Bivacco ist closed. Actually like always. But had a huge veranda. So we stay dry. Unfortunately the ground is not even. But should be fine.

    35.400 steps - 25.3km
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  • Breakfast @ R. Mafariello

    May 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    7:15am and already 9km done. Today gets hot again and thus we've started early. Here at Mafariello is s fountain with fresh water. So we stop for having breakfast and heading down for the flat road part. Better to do that in the morning. Before climbing up into the mountains again.Read more

  • To Montesarchio & Parco Tarburno

    May 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After breakfast we hiked a lot in there road. The next town was Montsarchio.
    We've passed a supermarket and filled up calories. Open on Pfingst Sunday!
    It was not late. About 10am I guess. But the sun was already strong. In the center, a bit later, it was really warm and I cooked down the dog with water and charged the phones in a cafe. Early afternoon we walked slowly further. Filled up water and started to climb to Monte Tarburno. On the way to the trail climb the first real rain got us. No chance to hide somewhere. 30min later it was only a drizzle. We've hiked up to there pass, but just 1km before, the next train started. A light thunderstorm. Luckily it was not that close. Then the run for a dry place started. Up there are cow meadows. And some picnic areas with old tables. But actually nothing useful at all. No roof anywhere. So I always scanned three map how far we can get and what's on the way. Even asking a friend of her knows anything.
    Finally there was a picnic area which looked not too bad. Except done stay dogs and mosquitos. I hope they do not maker problems.

    59.000 steps - 42.8km
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  • After an interesting night, we started early again. There was a chance to hike a small road or variants of different trails to the next village Solopaca. I've chosen the forest. I would never do it again. My legs are completely scratched from brambles and similar plants. I've switched between done different paths. They have appeared and have gone. They have been 2 sizes smaller than on the map. Or overgrown hungry. like crazy. I've taken at least 3 times or 4 times now as usual. Without gps you are lost. And even with gps, it was hard to navigate. No sign, no symbol, (almost) no way. So we've arrived at town much later then expected. Tired. And hungry. So we've has food and the heat already started. From now on to Gelesen Terme and further, it is lots of road. And the rain should arrive early afternoon.Read more

  • Dry bed of straw

    May 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After the thunderstorm in the afternoon the train has not really stopped. Only for a short period of time. In a small town we've looked for a roof and waited a little bit for less rain. But it hasn't stopped. The owner passed by and started to chat. And like often in Italy, the men get more and more. Curious and interested in. Discussion where I can sleep. A Swiss lady translated. At the end, we walked 2km out of town and at a farm I can stay below the roof for storing straw.

    Nice...

    38.000 steps - 27.3km
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  • The run before the storm

    May 30, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today we try to get into a bivacco. Got up early and hiked fast some road kilometers. We didn't stop for long in the villages. Just for breakfast or to buy something. We've been good in time. But then the trail starts uphill. 3 towns are on 3 levels. So it is always only 3km uphill and the next village appear. Now we are in the 3rd village and need a break. We need to charge the phones and Lupo got some food.
    The dark clouds are coming closer.
    Another 7km uphill to a lake and another 3km uphill to the Bivacco.

    The San Pellegrino drink is interesting. Here a description from the net:

    """
    San Pellegrino Chinò

    Seit 1958 der unnachahmliche Geschmack von Chinotto di Sicilia Chinò Sanpellegrino (schmeckt nach Bitterorange) wurde 1958 aus einem geheimen Rezept geboren und gilt als wahrer Kult unter den Sanpellegrino-Getränken. Hergestellt aus sizilianischen Chinotti aus einer kontrollierten Lieferkette und zu Beginn der Reifung geerntet, enthält es in einem Schluck das beste aromatische Profil, um Ihre Pausen reich an Geschmack zu bereichern.

    Chinò Sanpellegrino hat eine klare braune Farbe mit Nuancen von intensivem Ziegel Orange und einem Funkeln, das den Gaumen mit der leichten Kohlensäure erfrischt.

    Jeder Schluck Chinò Sanpellegrino nimmt Sie mit auf eine Reise nach Süditalien, mit seinem einzigartigen und unwiderstehlichen Geschmack, dem exquisiten Aroma von Chinotti kombiniert mit dem Duft von Orangenblüten.
    """
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  • Bivacco Dell'Esule

    May 30, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    In the afternoon, after the coffee break, we've been lucky for awhile. It was still warm. And nice to walk uphill. Nice views. The area could be in the Alps too. So similar. The thunder always listening from far, it started just before the pass to rain. Only a drizzle and walking below the leafy trees or is no problem at all. But on the downhill to the lake (which is pretty full of water now) the rain got stronger and the thunder closer. And no protection anymore. There is a chapel and fountain close. A chapel with an entrance roof! Rarely here. That was already s good place. But we've ascended in the rain 350m higher to the mountain meadows. There is s simple Bivacco. On the downside I was drenched completely. It does not get dry in a none heated Bivacco. So I hope I can dry it somehow the next day. But the weather forecast is not that good actually.

    48.000 steps - 34.7km
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  • Campitello Matese & Roccamandolfi

    May 31, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We've got up at 4:30am again. But started at 5:20am. All the clothes and shoes are wet. So I switched to the dry second T-shirt and shorts. But I've used the wet shoes and socks. They got drenched in some minutes anyway. Lots of grass to walk thru and that's really wet.
    Today I am tired. And don't have much energy to hike fast or far. The path to the ski resort was like in the Alps. Tricky to hike and not too slip. Not really well marked. You need to watch to the GPS frequently. So in all a bit up and down. But took much longer as usual.
    The scenery with that cold and someone's foggy weather was interesting. But the ski resort was more like a construction yard with only 2 workers. So we've immediately hiked further to the next small village.
    That's where we buy some food and charge the phone in a bar again.

    Today is the same as everyday now. The room against the time. The rain will arrive between noon and evening. But today we have no real destination to stay. So we must decide on the go.

    10:30am and 15km trail already. Now it gets uphill again. In the heat I guess. Not too much water on the way. That can be problematic with the dog sometimes. Let's see.
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  • To Sant. dell'Addolorata

    May 31, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    It was a nice hike from Roccamandolfi. Ups and downs... Sheep flocks from far. Just before the sanctuary we've stopped at the chapel. The thunderstorm arrived and the roof have is dinner protection. From here we can look down to the impressive sanctuary.

    40.800 steps - 30km
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  • To Isernia

    June 1, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    In the morning we walked to Isernia. The trail is normally easy, but today after the rain it was terrible. Very muddy, wet, high grass and other wet plants. Crossing a meadow completely under water. Everything was wet and my legs full of polls. I've chosen the next possibility to go on a small road. At a fountain a washed my legs, cause I was scared about the allergy and they have been black sprinkled with polls.

    From that road, the view was incredible. Like in the Alps. I've taken a picture but I think I just looks much better natural.

    In Isernia we've had breakfast, coffee, charging the phones and do shopping for the next mountainous stages. On the way to Abruzzo now. We use the normal short route to Abruzzo further north. So it differs a little bit to the route shown on pinguin .

    Molise so far is really beautiful from the scenery.
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  • Rifugio Fonte Maiuri

    June 1, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We started to ascent from Pesche after having another break at a bar. Chatting with a Canadian guy. It was still uncomfortable warm and the clouds have been dark already. Just before the spring, it started to rain. And Lupo walked so slow, actually he wanted to have a break. Then I realized that there is a small Refugio next to the spring with 2 cats in front of it. We immediately ran to the veranda and chatted with the guys. They just wanted to leave, but we can stay outside at the veranda or the storage room of the wood.
    So we decided to rest and wait. The rain got stronger.
    2 times in a row, it started to hail. It is early to finish the day, but these guys have told us, our way will be ready but no protection for the next 3 hours.
    The weather forecast predicts lighter and heavier rain. Hmm... Send to me it is there best to stay. Sleep a lot and start really tomorrow. Unfortunately weather. Com says that the next 10 days it will be everyday the same game. From noon to the evening thunderstorms or rain. More or less.
    Exasperatingly.

    31.600 steps - 23.1km
    Some elevation meters and stop because of thunderstorm and hail.
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  • View to Abruzzo, M. Amaro

    June 2, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Early walk thru mud, puddles, meadows (which are under water) and sometimes paths and forest roads.
    We can catch some nice views from the mountains far away. Someone's s little bit snow left.

  • San Pietro Avellana

    June 2, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We've stopped for late lunch and coffee in San Pietro Avellana. And it started to rain. Unbelievable. 11.:20am! But already collected 30km.
    Despite holiday, the small shop has had open. I've got food for the dog and myself.
    In this village there are really friendly people. Someone offered me an umbrella and in the Cafe, I've got the food for free. After awhile, the sun came out again and we started again. But then I realized, that around us the sky is dark black and you can listen to the thunder from far. That's problematic with Lupo, who is afraid. But we've started anyway and after some km we've found an old farm. In the middle of nowhere and stopped for having snacks again. Lupo is tired and want to stop. 4pm and 37.5km so far.

    52.000 steps - 38.2km
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  • Waiting for the right moment

    June 3, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today early morning we've tried to find out way through the puddles and mud. In first and over meadows until we've reached Roccacinquemiglia. So quiet Saturday morning at 6am. I've looked immediately for the bar, which opens normally around that time. No bar. I asked a German woman of there is one. No.
    Unbelievable. That town is not that small. But had no bar. That's rare in Italy.
    So hiked further to Roccaraso and Rivisondoli. Ski villages. Unfortunately we've been too early too. Even the bakery opens there later. Only one bar had had open. In the second village, we've even waited 30 min until 9am for opening the little supermarket. After having breakfast we headed 8km further to the start of the mountain hike. And passed a bivacco, which I haven't known before. Simple, but not that dirty. It was 10:40am and km 22 and the first thunder started. Lupo wanted only to go into the house.
    I was not sure what to do. The mountain stage is long and higher (states the guide). The summit is already in clouds. It doesn't rain yet, but the forecast for afternoon is terrible. Intense rain.

    So what can I do?
    - just hike up the mountain
    - walk on the main road into the next village and skip the mountain and search for a place to stay
    - just stop and relax here at the bivacco ( there is no water, so it is time limited)

    Right now I feel to stay here, rest and start the mountain stage tomorrow morning. That is better timing.

    30.000 steps - 22km

    By the way...I couldn't believe it... Next to the hut is snow. So I guess there has been a hefty hail yesterday and that's the leftover which came down the roof.
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  • Monte Porrara

    June 4, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    8:40am er just joined into Campo di Giove. We've started at 5am sharp. We needed to cross a meadow without pass. That's no hiking. That's wading thru water. After 5sec the shoes and feet were wet again. After 15min the toes hurt from the cold water.
    And then a great ascent up to Monte Porrara. After the summit you stay a little bit at height. A bit up and down to other summits and walk down on the ski piste and forest trail.
    16km and almost 1200hm. Already done. Perfect.
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  • Refugio Jaccio della Madonna

    June 4, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    15:00 - we've reached the Refugio/bivacco.
    The weather is still fine, even the forecast is different. I've met only ones sportive hier today in the village. Everybody else used the car, motorbike and some the race bicycle.
    The trail was mostly fine but tiring at the end. Luckily the refugio was open. Not locked. But unfortunately we have no water with us. There was really nothing on the way.
    So i will try to connect the rain water. Normally it should rain the whole night.
    Lupo was hiking good today, but wanted to do earlier. Now he has a lot of time to rest .
    We don't walk into the next Refugio. It's only 200+hm and 5km. But this is open and probably the view tomorrow morning is better. Now it is cloudy.

    50.000 steps - 36.3km
    2180 D+ / 1640 D-
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  • Popoli

    June 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Unfortunately it was raining in the morning. So we started at 7am. Not really many good views from Monte Morrone. Cows and horses were grassing up there. The walk along the ridge was tiring. No real path and so uneven. Same on the downhill. From 2000m to 250m. Such a long downhill. And today their is no energy. In Popolis it is humid and very warm. Uncomfortable. To warm for the dog. But at least we could fill up food. The next stage is pretty flat in a valley. So we will start the stage, but there will be the time that the train will start again.

    My E1 hiking friend unfortunately fell yesterday and hurt his arms so much, that he needs to stop. Sad! It was nice to chat about the trail etc.
    But well done! He also hiked from Sicily. 1400km! Well done! I am sure he will cure himself and connect to the trail again. But next time in Norway I guess. Probably there is just too much rain in Italy. ;)
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  • Bussi

    June 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Somehow I am exhausted. I have eaten already. But no energy left. Like being a bit ill. No idea. I've had a light Diarrhea in there morning. Probably I've got a wrong water!? No idea.
    But seems to me, I will make a break for some days. We are just organizing.Read more

  • Rest days

    June 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We've get the chance to rest for some days. Really lovely of my friend!
    So we will use the time to regenerate and clean myself and the equipment.