Australia to Europe

april 2019 - april 2023
29th of April 2019 until 1st April 2013 Meer informatie

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  • Mongolian traffic

    26 juli 2019, Mongolië ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I am sure everyone who had traveled Mongolia by car has written something about Mongolian roads. So I don't want to be an exception.
    Mongolia had its own sets of trafic challenges
    - roads conditions. Only a small percentage of Mongolian roads are paved, however a layer of tar does not guarantee a smooth ride. One moment as smooth as it can be, you let drop your attention and kabammm, you drive right into that big pot hole, or over a hump, Bodenwelle, that sets you airborne. And then miles after miles horrible conditions, one pothole after the other. So on these really bad bits, thereof are a lot, you are constantly trying to dodge the holes, you eyes glued onto the road ahead trying to figure out the smoothest route. Very often you dodge onto the left-hand side; nothing wrong with it unless there is some oncoming traffic which is playing the same game.
    Or you are dodging and at the same time another car is overtaking you. That really takes the spotaneity out of the dodge game as, before you dodge, you have to check your rear view mirror if some Prius is passing you by, to avoid you dodging into him.
    Hmm, tomorrow i'll have about 100km of that ahead of me. Perhaps I should rather trundle through the country side???
    In my experience when driving over passes the approach to the top is never paved. Too steep? Who knows. But the gradient doesn't make for good conditions neither.
    Driving piste can be really fun though with a wide choice of tracks. One getting bumpy? Choose the next one. Somebody coming towards you? Just change lane. And if you run out off drivable options just drive over the paddock.
    Of course when it gets rocky and narrow only the lousy option remains.
    The advantage of this? You learn exactly where your wheels sit . So cain toads beware: once back on Australian roads there is no more missing you!!!!☠
    - bridges: always slow down before crossing one. They are never even. Big distances in width our height or both of the panels and potholes, slowly wins the game
    - Animals crossing the road. I had them all so far, apart from camels (I've seen them only well off the road). Goats, sheep, horses, yaks, cows, dogs, earth squirrels. Hmm, where are the cats? Haven't seen a single cat so far!!!
    If there would be so many animals on the roads in Australia it would be a slaughter house. Considering the amount of dead cows there are.
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  • Social interactions a la Mongolia

    30 juli 2019, Mongolië ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The helpfulness and hospitality of the mongolian people is really outstanding. As soon as I got stuck people were there to help me, not expecting anything in return. And this had to be paid back of course. The opportunity came soon enough when I picked up two stranded Mongolians from the side of the road or jumpstarted a battery weak car.
    Whenever I camped somewhere I had visitors in my van. I sometimes swore at that tiny tea pot I have, was it only meant for one our two persons and not a whole Mongolian clan who brought me some dinner.
    But the cream on my cake was the invitation for lunch at the Ger which simply means house in Mongolian, or Yurte as the Russians call it. I was so surprised about the size and comfort in the Ger and really impressed how every family member pitched in preparing the food. They were making everything themselves: butter, cheeses, several whey based drinks (brrr), vodka was bubbling on the stove. The lady of the house l showed me how she softens the leather, we played games with items made out of goat or sheep knuckles. Once done with eating I was dressed up in traditional Mongolian clothing and the son made at least 50 pictures of us.
    The next day I just wanted to have off, just myself lazing on the beach but this enjoyment was not to last: an UAZ van turned up, spitting out loads of people old and young. Directly beside my van. There is the whole beach kms to the left and kms to the right; empty beach as far as the eye can see, and they settle down right beside me, 20m from my van, music blaring, a little girl coming as far as she dares towards Rex, and barking wau, wau, wau at him. Contrary to everyone else he does not think this is funny and barks back. This is how the Viennese musty have felt when the Mongolian under Dshenghis Khan threatened to take their town, but they were lucky, Prince Eugene defended them, but my defender was on the leash. I should have let him go when I saw them coming, but now I had no alternative but to pack up and leave.
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  • And another breakdown

    1 augustus 2019, Mongolië ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    This is one of those days that we really don't need. First I'm getting bogged, and now, just a few hours later I hit a rock and Lola groans in pain.
    Thanks to Arman giving me my electronic gadget that works through GPS and Rene from the Riverpoint Lodge in Ulaan Baatar help is on its way. I hope I'll be out of here tomorrow.
    I could really do with some wine tonight, or something stronger. Some of that homebrew vodka would go down a treat. But I think it will be black current leave tea.

    PS: Help arrived and I got to Ölgii the same night. A special kind of experience driving down a bumpy Mongolian dirt and rock track at night. In the garage I met some fellow travellers from Germany and Hungary who's cars were in need for some attention as well. Had a nice day and evening together.
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  • Bogged

    1 augustus 2019, Mongolië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I am sure every overlander gets bogged eventually. Today was my day. After the I don't know how manieth crossing today it got me. But here i am!!! Dug and pulled myself out of the mud.
    But now 2 minute noodles for lunch. Wanted to have lunch in the next settlement 15km away, but who knows how long this is going to take me. Have to find the track first which I lost during my search for those many crossings. And who knows how many more of those crossings....Meer informatie

  • In the mountains

    6 augustus 2019, Mongolië ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After being cooped up in the workshop yard and in dusty Ölgii for 4 days to get the car repaired, Sophia and Yanosh, the Hungarian couple have already left, so only Lisa and Jonas were closer to the finishing line as well, it was time to get out of town and give myself and Rex a good run. I intended to not get too far out of town as I needed internet to get my tax return prepared (Yes, these things need doing as well), and I am still waiting for a part that needs to be fitted so Lola is fit to run again. But as soon as I hit the first mountain, which was very soon, no more internet. So I continued until I found a track off the main track to find a nice camping spot. And that I found indeed. A phantastic all round view and no soul, as I had experienced so many times before in this vast and empty country.
    Next day Rexelby and a went for a 6 hour hike, up and down the hills and mountains until we found the river we intended to camp on, but which we could not get to due to the narrow valleys. Now my dog is clean again.
    Both of us were totally stuffed when we got back, even Rex did not want to move anymore (for the next 30 mins).
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  • Tolbo Nuur

    9–11 aug. 2019, Mongolië ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Another beautiful camping spot and nice hiking area before heading to the border.

  • Border crossing to Russia

    13 augustus 2019, Mongolië ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    After my plans for venturing east on the southern route were made redundant due to my break down and the forced waiting days in Ölgii, I just wanted to leave and continue my journey. But my new Russian visa did not allow me to enter before today. So yesterday late afternoon I finally made my way to the Mongolian Russian border.
    I don't like border villages, they always seem to swarm with people who want to sell you something. In this village I was stopped by some people who wanted to charge me 10000 Tughrik for road tax, which I refused to pay. Crooks!
    So I made my way into the hills and found the perfect spot for the night, far away from the road and the village. Or so I thought...
    I had just finished to dig out all the documentation I need for the crossing and replenished my hidden currency supply from my secret compartment when a car came across the hill and over the paddock with Edelweiss. I know, you Bavarian alpinists will be very envious now! But Edelweiss are everywhere here. And Enzian as well. Ganze Wiesen voll!
    Sorry, got a bit distracted!
    So this car pulled up beside me, some uniformed border Patrol, and told me I cannot stay here, border area. My pleading could not soften their heart, so I had to pack up and leave. Towards Ölgii again. Oh no!
    But just 2km down the road I spied some earth mound parallel to the road. The perfect spot beside the road, well hidden but inconspicuous enough as not to be immediately being identified as sleeping spot just in case.
    When I arrived at the border at 7 o'clock there were already 7 trucks ahead of me. Border opening at 9.
    First border control: those guys wanting the 10000 Tughriks from me yesterday were no crooks. As I spent my last of the mongolian money on fuel yesterday, I had to pay 5€. No change given. Still crooks!!!
    Onwards to the next Mongolian border station.
    Park the car, don't park where they want me to, some parking rearrangements follow until I am parked totally crooked, but that's where and how they want me, so be it.
    In to the office building. First counter closed, second counter "Customs", that's where I queue. Waiting, then my turn. She studies paperwork and studies and studies, then she sends me to another counter way down the hall to get my little running slip, that I was issued at the 1. border control, stamped. That lady just puts a stamp on it. That's her job. Then back to the other counter, again queuing, she checks the stamp and is happy with it. Now outside to the car control. This always seems to be a quick procedure as Rex, tied up, shows himself from his fiercest side. Or is it the single, crazy, elderly lady impersonation?
    Now only passport control and that's done with the Mongolian side.
    On we go 10-20km down the bumpy road through noman's land. I ponder who the sheep grazing there belong to. Are they distributed to the customs people when they reach their KPIs? 1000 stamps one sheep? I will never know.
    Ah, here comes the first Russian control. The officer had to finish this round of his computer game first I gather, as it takes a while until he comes to open the gate to check the papers.
    Nice young guy, refreshingly not phased by Rexby's behaviour. He has a husky too, so that's a quick one as well.
    Driving a few kms to the next border control. Another gate, another queue, some more waiting. The gate opens, we get ushered into the inner sanctum of Russian BC. Out of the car, and queuing for passport control. Once I passed the critical eye, back to the car and near panic gets hold of me. There are huge tables onto which every car owner has to display the complete contents of the vehicle. I imagined to unearth all my lose items from every drawer, wind grabbing my knickers and blowing them all the way back to Ölgii, towels draping themselves over fences and aerials.... I'll be here till midnight!!!
    But then my magic formula, vicious dog plus mad woman does its trick again: a glimpse here, a poke there and then: " You, madam, move car !" And did madam move car!
    But then i still needed to get my car import paperwork completed, 2x and after, what must have been a record time, 2 hours and 56mins i was through the customs. Talked to people yesterday it took them 7 hours and had to unload everything from their car.
    Good boy Rexelby!!!
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  • A day in Nur-Sultan, formerly Astana

    26 augustus 2019, Kazachstan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    In Bernaul I caught up again with Christoph and Lena. From now on we will travel in short distance from each other, to ensure we cross the Pamir together.
    Nur-Sultan greeted me with oriental chaos. It gave me the feeling I had finally left the ever present remnants of the Soviet era behind. The scene soon changed to hyper modern architecture. You can love it or leave it, it for sure is impressive.
    But after one day Rex and myself decided its time to leave. Back to nature.
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  • Bektau Ata

    29 augustus 2019, Kazachstan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After driving long hours on end through never ending and dusty road works in "The Great Steppe" we were looking for a sheltered place for the night and drove towards a range of hills on the horizon. What was only planned for a one night stop totally took is by surprise with its wild beauty and surprising rock formations. So instead of packing up and continuing on through the steppe we went for a long hike through the wilderness.Meer informatie