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Albania Shkoder

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  • ViaggiatoreThe Balkans
    223
    Giorno 12

    Biking along Lake Shkodra

    1 maggio, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The plan today was to hire a bike and ride along the edge of Lake Shkodra. Lake Shkodra is the largest lake in the Balkans, and the border between Montenegro and Albania runs through the middle of the lake.

    A lot of people get around Shkoder by bike and the city has a lot of bike paths and bike hire shops. However, since we needed to ride away from the city, I decided to use Google to help me find a bike rental place on the lake side of our apartment. Not so easy - Google sent us to non existent shops or shops which sold new bikes, or shops with grumpy, unhelpful owners with no English ( generally, the Albanians are extremely helpful, but away from the tourist areas, English is limited). Eventually, we managed to rent two dinky bikes and head out to the lake.

    The cycle path didn’t last long. The locals just weave confidently in and out of the traffic, so we tried to latch on to the back of a local where possible. The views along the lake were lovely but the road was in poor condition, with a lot of road works in progress. We rode almost to the border with Montenegro, although crossing here is not possible.

    In Zogaj, near the border, we stopped for lunch. Despite Australians’ perception of carp, it’s a very popular eating fish here and we’ve been told that now is the best season for carp, so it was grilled carp with salad and a traditional corn bread for lunch. The carp was tasty but there were a lot of bones to pick out. It’s a very oily fish so we must have got a good dose of Omega 3 today as well as enjoying a very local experience - this out of the way restaurant was full of locals enjoying their ‘in season’ carp.

    On the way back, we had to pass by Rozafa Castle, the fortress that sits high above Shkoder. We rode and pushed our bikes up, up, up until we were offered a place to park them (for free, luckily). Then we walked up, up, up and entered the castle. Some parts of it are really well preserved, and the views out to the surrounding countryside are spectacular.

    We rode back to town and returned the bikes, 25 kilometres later. What a tiring day. It’s lovely to sit now on the balcony of our apartment, just relaxing and enjoying a cup of tea.    Leggi altro

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  • ViaggiatoreThe Balkans
    422
    Giorno 11

    Exploring Shkoder

    30 aprile, Albania ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Shkoder is bigger than I had expected. Of course, we are staying fairly centrally, and the area around our accommodation is bustling with life. There is an abundance of cafes, bars, and restaurants. We are staying in an 8th floor apartment with wonderful views out over the city and the surrounding mountains.

    It’s hard to comprehend the changes this city has gone through, just in recent times, never mind its very long history of occupation by various powers. My interest in Shkoder had been piqued by the writings of an English woman, Edith Durham, an adventurer, artist and writer who travelled in the region in the early 20th century. In 1908, she wrote High Albania and I am reading it as I travel. In Edith’s view, Albania was really just a pawn in a game being played by the great powers of the day: the Austrians, the Russians, the Italians etc.
    Edith writes of the women in the high mountains who were really seen as nothing more than chattels, often promised in marriage from infancy. The only way for women to escape this fate was to swear to a life of virginity and to don men’s clothes. Having done this, they were afforded the same respect as men. So it was interesting to visit the excellent Museum of Photography in Shkoder and find photos of Edith Durham, and the mountain men and women she wrote about.    Leggi altro

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  • Slovenien, Kroatien und weiter
    11
    Giorno 18

    Albanien und einige Fakten

    14 aprile, Albania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Beim Grenzübertritt von Montenegro nach Albanien merkt der Grenzbeamter erstaunt an „From Germany and no Mercedes?“ Wir reisen nicht mit dieser Automarke ein. Mercedes-Benz-Autos sind aber in Albanien unglaublich verbreitet und beliebt. Der Trend gewann an Dynamik nach der Massenauswanderung der Albaner, die bei ihrer Rückkehr häufig Mercedes-Benz-Fahrzeuge mitbrachten. Heutzutage ist der Besitz eines Mercedes so etwas wie ein Statussymbol. Trotz Armut ist das Auto von klapprig bis ganz neu in Massen anzutreffen. Das war schon mal Fakt 1. Fakt 2 sind die Bunker. Albanien ist für seine schätzungsweise bis zu 750.000 Bunkern bekannt. Bei knapp 3 Millionen Einwohner eine beachtliche Leistung. Sie wurden unter dem kommunistischen Führer Albaniens Enver Hoxha errichtet – zur Verteidigung und zum Schutz einer möglichen Invasion. Bunker findet man überall, an Stränden, in den Bergen, entlang von Straßen, an Touristenattraktionen und sogar an den Mauern antiker Festungen. Bunt angemalt treffen wir auf so einem Bunker auch auf dem dem Bio-Hof Mrizi i Zanave. Die Inhaber des Hofs sind das Brüderpaar Altin und Anton Prenga. Auf dem Hof gibt es eine eigene Käserei, hier wird Fleisch und Wurst geräuchert und Wein aus eigenem Anbau gekeltert. Olivenhaine, Kräuter- und Gemüseanbau, Gänse, Ziegen und Obstbäume. Hier wird nichts verschwendet. In nur wenigen Jahren wurde es zum Slow Food Highlight über die Grenzen Albaniens hinaus bekannt. Unser letzter Vermieter in Montenegro selbst schwärmte davon, genauso wie unsere Freunde. Es ist Montagmittag und voll. Hier kostet ein Essen bestehend aus Vorspeisen, Hauptgang und Dessert und Obst um die 15 € und so soll es nach Möglichkeit auch bleiben, denn das Restaurant soll für alle sein. Wir bekommen einen frischen Granatapfelsaft zum Auftakt. Dann wird der Tisch mit immer mehr Teller gefüllt, mit selbstgebackenem Maisbrot, verschiedene Käse, Schinken und Würste und einem kleinen Ricotta mit Spinatcreme. Dazu kommen noch gefüllte Zucchiniblüten … Mehr geht nicht. Gut, dass wir uns die Stadt Shkodra und die alte ottomanische Bogenbrücke Ura e Mesit schon vorher angesehen haben.Leggi altro

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  • ViaggiatoreThe Balkans
    2
    1
    Giorno 14

    Hiking in Theth

    3 maggio, Albania ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Theth is a village in Theth National Park in the Albanian Alps, about two and a half hours drive from Shkoder. The journey itself was spectacular, climbing up the mountains, with the road switching back and forth, and then down into Theth valley. Not long ago it must have been a sleepy town. Now, more and more people are coming to hike its many trails. Many people come to hike the Valbona Pass, a 9.5 K trail through the mountains, connecting Valbona with Theth. Since spring is here, the pass is once again open. We hiked along some of the trail, climbing up to beautiful waterfall, Grunas, and then back down to Theth for a well earned late lunch. All up, we hiked and climbed about 10Ks. The mountains surrounding Theth are beautiful, the snow just barely still clinging to the summits.

    The Albanian Alps are a tough environment, with tough people. In the pre-communist era the tribes here lived by the rules of blood vengeance. Insult or crime against another required blood. Once started between family groups, it could carry on for generations. It fell upon one male member of the family to exact the revenge. Once they had killed their target, the killer had one month of freedom before they, in turn, became hunted for revenge. After the month was up, they hid in lock in tower houses, from which they only ventured out at risk of their lives. One of these still stands in Theth. Again, it was interesting to see with my own eyes some of the things described by Enid Durham in her book High Albania.    Leggi altro

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  • ViaggiatoreAlbanie printemps 2025
    2
    Giorno 6

    Sur les hauteurs de Shkodër

    2 maggio, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Le réveil est moins venteux que la veille. On prend le petit déjeuner dehors au soleil puis petit footing sur la plage qui est longue de plusieurs kilomètre. On mange à l'ombre d'un pin puis bronzette. Mais le vent se lève à nouveau comme la veille alors on décide de changer d'endroit. Après une petite douche, on met le cap au nord vers la ville de Shkodër. Le GPS nous fait passer par une petite route qui devient vite un chemin un peu cahoteux 😅 mais c'est ça l'Albanie.
    On arrive à destination pour admirer un magnifique soleil couchant sur le lac de Shkodër en contre bas. On a une vue magnifique sur la ville.    Leggi altro

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  • ViaggiatoreThe Balkans
    21
    Giorno 13

    Slow Day

    2 maggio, Albania ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    After yesterday’ effort we needed a slow day today. We’ve done a load of washing, and I’ve started writing this while sitting in our local cafe. I’ve ordered a ‘latte macchiato’ - not bad and not expensive- just over $3.00 Australian.

    Later, we visited a history museum and ended with dinner at a social enterprise restaurant serving traditional Albanian food and set up to support women and children escaping domestic and gender based violence. The wine was pretty rough, but the food was great. We took a slight detour on our way home for a gelato - surprisingly a shop with largely vegan options. It was, as usual, pistachio for me, and Ian was very happy with his apple and mint.

    Tomorrow, we’ll be up at six for a day trip to the mountains.    Leggi altro

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  • ViaggiatoreThe Balkans
    11
    Giorno 10

    Tito’s railway

    29 aprile, Albania ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Strictly speaking, we have not caught the Montenegro Express - that’s the train that goes all the way to Belgrade. We are travelling on the same line, but using local trains. Our train left Podgorica at 6.15, and terminated in Bijelo Polje at around 9.10. The scenery along the route was spectacular, passing high up above the river and road that wound through the valley below. At one stage, we were able to look down into the Tara River Canyon, one of Europe’s deepest. The pictures do not really do it justice.

    Our hotel had given us a packed breakfast, so we ate this on the train at Bijelo Polje as we waited for its return journey to commence. Luckily, on the way back we had window seats, and were able to enjoy the views all over again.

    Back in Podgorica, it was a quick lunch and then on the bus to Shkoder, Albania, one and a half hours away.

    More on Shkoder tomorrow.    Leggi altro

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  • Albanien
    1
    Giorno 2

    Shkodra ☀️

    26 aprile, Albania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Aufgrund des Regens nutzten wir den Vormittag u.a. für Einkäufe und Geld tauschen. Die Jungs erzählten auch von einem Slum hinter dem Supermarkt.
    Am Nachmittag zogen wir los und erkundeten die Burg Rozafa. Dort hatten wir einen unfassbar schönen Ausblick über Shkodra. Später besuchten wir die Mesi Brücke und begegneten wieder vielen Streunern. Heute waren wir vorbereitet und hatten etwas Futter dabei. ❤️‍🩹
    Dann waren wir in Shkodra noch super lecker Essen und probierten uns durch typisch albanische Küche. ✨️    Leggi altro

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  • ViaggiatoreNeues Abenteuer, Adria!
    Giorno 28

    Shkodra Stadtbummel

    23 aprile, Albania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Ein einfacher Stellplatz am Stadtrand, dafür dann 2 km laufen bis zur Innenstadt. Man fühlt sich teilweise wie im Orient. Die Geschäfte und Restaurants laden zum sightseeing ein. Bei tollem Sommerwetter genießen wir den Tag.Leggi altro

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  • Dani's ReisenBalkanroadtrip
    1
    Giorno 24

    pershendetje albanien

    21 aprile, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Wir fuhren Heute nach Albanien. Es war ein sehr strenger Tag. Wir fuhren Heute viel... die Strassen sind in sehr schlechtem Zustand (viele Schlaglöcher). Auch war der Verkehr sehr turbulent. Es gibt viele kaputte Häuser, viel Abfall... Mal schaun wie sich die Zeit hier entwickelt, wir haben hier doch einige Stopps geplant.🙂🙃
    Heute besuchten wir die Burgruine Rozafa mit toller Aussicht und auch unser Campingplatz für die Nacht in Kruja hat eine tolle Sicht.    Leggi altro

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