Spain Barreiro

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  • Day 33–34

    Boente to A Salceda

    May 9 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 57 °F

    I had a wonderful dinner last night at the albergue’s restaurant. I shared my table with an Italian lady and while we were drinking wine and chatting, our phones started going off. In her case, it was her mother. In my case, it was my dear friend Mara from Argentina. Both were giving us news of the new pope. So, while eating, we both started reading together Mara’s messages and speculating on what the future pope will bring to the table.
    I shared breakfast with her this morning before parting ways.
    It rained some last night, but we were gifted another day with warm temperatures and sunshine. As we approach Santiago, the Camino gets busier and busier.
    I have encountered groups more than before. I am amazed and the number of Taiwanese pilgrims. It is probably the country most represented among the pilgrims.
    Regardless of the increased number of people, it is always very easy to walk quietly and alone.
    Along the way, I came across a peculiar bar/restaurant playing Galician music, folk-style music that incorporates the distinctive sound of bagpipes.
    The place is building a wall made of beer bottles, and pilgrims can write their names/messages on them.
    The albergue today was out of this world (considering I paid 16 euros for it)! The shower had jets, the water was super hot, the sofas in the common areas had blankets, and there was a fireplace! I could have literally cried right there and then.
    It could not get much better than this for a cheap pilgrim.

    A Salceda: Stayed at Albergue La Corona 1.
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  • Day 32–33

    Palas de Rei to Boente

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Third day of sunshine and incredible weather! It makes all the difference. The trail was busy this morning when I left, then it became quiet, and then it turned into mayhem!
    Walking by yourself, it is so easy to get used to the silence and be comfortable with it, that when you encounter groups of pilgrims being loud, you just stop to let the noise pass you by. Am I becoming anti-social?? Well, I think I already was before the Camino.
    It shocked me yesterday when I wrote that every stop included a Serrano ham sandwich… so unhealthy!… I went for muffins today instead… and lunch… and dinner later on.
    The highlight of my day was meeting K.D. Field, an American author living in Spain now. Kelli walked her first Camino some years ago and when returning, she told her husband they needed to move here. Six month later, they had! She authored a trilogy about stories on the Camino, her third book coming out for Xmas.
    While talking to her, another American living pretty close to our home in Virginia stopped by…. And the world keeps shrinking.
    There was also a group of high schoolers on the trail. Most of them were walking in groups, but just by themselves. They knew the final destination and they just needed to make sure they got there. There were teachers walking along but for the most part they had lost track of the students. This is how safe it is… and of course, with the fact that everyone has a cellphone, there is nothing to worry about.
    Rain was predicted to start at around 2:00 pm, so some pilgrims were rushing, trying to beat it. But it had not come yet by 4:00 pm.
    My albergue today is a little piece of heaven on earth. Right on the Camino and with nothing but fields around, it is the perfect spot to close a perfect day.
    I had a sangria and olives by the little pool while I soaked my tired feet in the cold, cold water.

    Boente: Stayed at Albergue El Alemán
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  • Day 31–32

    Portomarin to Palas de Rei

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Another amazing day on the Camino!
    Although the morning was chilly and there was fog over the water and the hills, it was uplifting to see the number of pilgrims marching on before the sun came out.
    And although a big part of the way run alongside a road, it was still gratifying to see the landscape every time I looked up and around.
    Today was probably the busiest day I have seen on the Camino. One minute I was alone and the next I was “where did all these people appear from?”
    Some seemed to be walking slowly and some rushing through it to get a spot at a municipal albergue.
    For me, it is important to consider stops to take off my shoes and lift my foot for a while. The only drawback I see to that is that every stop seems to also include a Serrano ham sandwich and a coffee!!!
    But that is also when you get to talk to pilgrims a little.
    Today, after asking a young Spanish guy to take a picture, we ended up walking the last 10 km together, sharing stories and, of course, discussing politics and cultural differences. We were also joined by a young lady walking with her dog, who asked our advice about what to do with her knees because she was in too much pain. Oh did we have advice to give! And drugs too!! Javier immediately took a scarf out of his pack-pack and wrap it to apply some compression and I loaded her up with my endless supply of anti-inflammatories and then some!!
    I also learned that Steven Spielberg is walking the Camino behind us!!! Not many people recognize him, but he is staying at albergues just as us, commoners. A pilgrim had taken a photo with him.
    I guess there may be another Camino movie in the making.
    The journey tomorrow will be a little shorter and hopefully, it won’t start raining until the afternoon.

    Palas de Rei: Stayed at Albergue San Marcos
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  • Day 36

    Penultimate day - sort of?

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Today was very fun! Shorter, very nice weather, and the next to last day before arriving in Santiago. It felt festive and light, possibly in part because I described our enjoyment of a shot of whiskey or liqueur every 5 k on the penultimate day of my first Camino and Morne’ and Alejandro were more than happy to reenact that. It is now officially a tradition!

    I also came upon an artist along the way I had liked last time and was able to get more of his cards.

    And saw a great donkey!

    Tomorrow, Santiago!
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  • Day 35

    Arzua 2-ah

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Accidentally uploaded my post!

    I am looking forward, of course, to walking into Santiago on Friday, but I’m REALLY excited to be able this time to walk on to Finisterre. It feels like the “true” ending of this Camino to me. I just need to work out how I’m getting from there to Madrid for my flight to make sure it’s all going to work out.

    Today we walked through eucalyptus forests. I have a rather ghostly photo - I’ll try to take a better one tomorrow.

    Ended the walk in rain today , the first rain since I entered Galicia. This is a sharp contrast to the daily rain when we were here last time so the rainier days ahead cannot be complained about.

    How am I feeling about this whole experience? I feel as if I desperately need time to process, and it’s one of the things that makes returning to solo walking for the last three days to the ocean so appealing, much s I’ve loved walking with Morne’ and Alejandro.

    Otherwise how I’m feeling is tired and a little footsore. Time to wrap this day up!
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  • Day 26

    <50km to Santiago

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Guys, what can I tell you...
    The kilometers are flying by and somehow I am lost in my thoughts most of the time.

    I want to mention that I had a fantastic night in yesterday's albergue and I slept so much 🩷
    With my Danish roomie I even took breakfast and shared the first 10km of the day on which he told me his emotional story.
    Later, I walked alone, taking regular breaks and just enjoying whatever side the Camino showed me.

    Around 7, I called my albergue to check in only 20 minutes later...even after almost 40km, I did not want to stop somehow 😅

    I had dinner (a kind of plate I would never order in Germany btw since I hate fries and bacon that is not "cross" but well...I am also f***ing hungry) and will soon go to bed.

    Today, again staying in a pilgrims hostel and it looks like I am sharing the dorm with only 1 guy from South Korea 😊
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  • Day 26

    Hiking with full dedication 🤣

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    To my German friends: would you mind sending a bit of sun to the north of Spain???
    It is so rainy here that my Camino was cut so I needed to walk a small detour.
    This included jumping over a small stream and me doing a "superhero-landing" with my right fist in the mud first because I lost balance. And later trying to avoid a barbed wire fence and getting stuck in a thorn bush. 😅
    Strangely, my first reaction was to laugh because after all, I could wash all this off in the next bar and I did not land in cow dung or something (and trust me, the chances are high here!). 😁
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  • Day 16

    Dem Regen entkommen?

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Um 6 Uhr vom Regen an die Scheiben klatschend wach werden. Klasse. Es war noch dunkel und mein Wetterbericht für Melide gab 4° gefühlt 2° und Regen an.
    Ich gestehe, ich war bedient und suchte nach Auswegen. Die Bahn nach Leon? Nach Burgos? 7,5 Std. 2x umsteigen, davon einmal in Ponteverda, wo ich zwei Tage vorher noch war? Über Madrid? Fahrradmitnahme in Spanien scheint fast unmöglich! Wenn nur in Regionalzügen?
    Die Pilger lassen sich ihr Gepäck von einem zum anderen Ort mit Taxis bringen, die dann leer zurück fahren.
    Aber Aufgeben oder mich selbst betrügen? Habe ich auch in der Türkei vor 50 Jahren nicht, wenn eine Geburt scheinbar auf normalem Wege nicht ging, oder bei Verwachsungsbäuchen die ohne Anfang oder Ende schienen.

    Die alte Wirtin (75) gab mir den Kuchen ihrer Mutter (96), " den backt sie noch jeden Tag", mit einem großen, heißen Milchkaffee, "it is freezing cold", zum Frühstück. So zog ich mich sehr sehr warm an und raus ging es.

    Nach 2 Kilometer spürte ich meine Finger schon nicht mehr, die Fahrradhandschuhe waren durchnässt, aber es kam das erste Dorf mit einer wunderschönen Brücke. Drüber und die Pilgerschar grüßte freundlich "Ola", "Buen camino" oder "Buen dia"! Danach Aufgeben? Undenkbar.

    Selbst zu Pferde oder mit Kinderwagen waren sie unterwegs. Die letzten 100 km müssen hoch zu Roß oder zu Fuß für die Pilger-Anerkennung zurückgelegt werden. Auf dem Drahtesel sind es 200 km. Ich beneidete beide auf den tiefen, durchnässten Fußwegen überhaupt nicht. Die Regenfurchen, der Matsch und das Berg auf und ab bei dem heutigen Wetter sicherlich eine Leistung.

    Die 11 km hinab nach Portomarin, auch an einem Rio Miño gelegen, durchwehte mich der eiskalte Fahrtwind bis auf die Knochen. Ein warmes Getränk in einem schiefer gedeckten Café weckten meine Lebensgeister soweit, dass ich auf den Velo 3 Radweg umplante.

    Eine wunderschöne Landschaft, ohne Regen aber mit immerwieder aufkommendem Sonnenschein erinnerten mich sehr stark an die Heimat. Die Blicke in die
    Weite Galiciens, die Täler, Wälder, Bäche. Herzerwärmend.

    Mit Donner, Blitz und Hagel hielt ich in Sarria Einzug. Gut dass ich im warmen und trockenen Hotel meine Akkus aufladen kann. Morgen steht der 18 km lange Anstieg auf die Sierra an. Zwischen den Sierra del Oribio, Sierra del Eje und Sierra del Cauel muss ich hindurch, um in drei Tagen Leon zu erreichen. Von 480m auf 1340m klettern heißt das. Leider soll es weiterhin so kalt sein und ich wollte extra den Frühling von hier unten mitbringen.
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  • Day 64–65

    Arzua

    May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Very short walk today, a mere 14 km to Arzua. I once again lucked out with the weather, as the rain only started in the late afternoon when I had already arrived and was settled in at the hostel. There were a lot of people on the trail, as expected, but it actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Even getting a spot at the hostel was no problem! The afternoon was rainy and calm, and since there wasn't much to do because of the weather I did the one thing any savvy French girl would do... go get good food and wine! 😁 There's a lovely little restaurant just across from the hostel so I treated myself to some local wine and octopus- the specialty of the Galicia region. 🐙Read more

  • Day 33

    From Sarria to Palasdel Rei

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Nach Sarria sind wir auf den letzten 100km angekommen! Nun hat es viele Menschen und die Lust am Fotografieren vergeht etwas, jedoch immer noch weniger Leute als erwartet! Am Abend kochen wir gemeinsam! Pasta pesto, chorizo mit Ei, Salat 😀🤩😋! Alle sind happy!!Read more

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