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  • TravelerCamino De Santiago (Francés)
    1
    1
    Day 32–33

    Palas de Rei to Boente

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Third day of sunshine and incredible weather! It makes all the difference. The trail was busy this morning when I left, then it became quiet, and then it turned into mayhem!
    Walking by yourself, it is so easy to get used to the silence and be comfortable with it, that when you encounter groups of pilgrims being loud, you just stop to let the noise pass you by. Am I becoming anti-social?? Well, I think I already was before the Camino.
    It shocked me yesterday when I wrote that every stop included a Serrano ham sandwich… so unhealthy!… I went for muffins today instead… and lunch… and dinner later on.
    The highlight of my day was meeting K.D. Field, an American author living in Spain now. Kelli walked her first Camino some years ago and when returning, she told her husband they needed to move here. Six month later, they had! She authored a trilogy about stories on the Camino, her third book coming out for Xmas.
    While talking to her, another American living pretty close to our home in Virginia stopped by…. And the world keeps shrinking.
    There was also a group of high schoolers on the trail. Most of them were walking in groups, but just by themselves. They knew the final destination and they just needed to make sure they got there. There were teachers walking along but for the most part they had lost track of the students. This is how safe it is… and of course, with the fact that everyone has a cellphone, there is nothing to worry about.
    Rain was predicted to start at around 2:00 pm, so some pilgrims were rushing, trying to beat it. But it had not come yet by 4:00 pm.
    My albergue today is a little piece of heaven on earth. Right on the Camino and with nothing but fields around, it is the perfect spot to close a perfect day.
    I had a sangria and olives by the little pool while I soaked my tired feet in the cold, cold water.

    Boente: Stayed at Albergue El Alemán    Read more

  • TravelerSpring 2025 Camino
    1
    Day 35

    Arzua 2-ah

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Accidentally uploaded my post!

    I am looking forward, of course, to walking into Santiago on Friday, but I’m REALLY excited to be able this time to walk on to Finisterre. It feels like the “true” ending of this Camino to me. I just need to work out how I’m getting from there to Madrid for my flight to make sure it’s all going to work out.

    Today we walked through eucalyptus forests. I have a rather ghostly photo - I’ll try to take a better one tomorrow.

    Ended the walk in rain today , the first rain since I entered Galicia. This is a sharp contrast to the daily rain when we were here last time so the rainier days ahead cannot be complained about.

    How am I feeling about this whole experience? I feel as if I desperately need time to process, and it’s one of the things that makes returning to solo walking for the last three days to the ocean so appealing, much s I’ve loved walking with Morne’ and Alejandro.

    Otherwise how I’m feeling is tired and a little footsore. Time to wrap this day up!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino del Norte
    222
    Day 38

    J38 - Départ de Melide

    September 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Départ vers 8h de Melide, il fait meilleur qu'hier. Le chemin va parcourir toute la journée la campagne galicienne, saupoudrée de petits hameaux (seule la ville d'Arzua est sur mon chemin). Le parcours est aussi très vallonné, mais sans difficulté.

    Parfois, il y a quelques flots de pèlerins, déversés par le Camino Francès. Mais franchement, je m'attendais à pire. Cet après-midi, je ne croiserai que 5 pèlerins...    Read more

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  • FRENCH CAMINO 2024
    Day 31

    Day 28: Melide to Arzua. 12.5 km.

    September 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    PW: Another short and welcome trot to Arzúa, 12.5 km down the trail. Another welcome feature was that we did not encounter noise and pace of the hoards this morning and so could naturally enjoy the grassy hedgerows, small towns and green vistas that we passed.

    Before we left today, I touched base with my son, Sam, who has moved to Sydney for his work. I think I did well. In the space of 12 minutes and 54 seconds I got, in monosyllabic responses, the low down on his flat, sport events in Sydney, him starting work on Monday and events around him leaving NZ. Admittedly, he’s busy and got a bit on setting himself up in a new city.

    I thought about conversations I’d been having in the last month on the Camino. Almost a juxtaposition. Interactions on the Camino appear to be less transactional and more process driven. People have time to chew the fat, so to speak, with many different recipients at the same or different times. In a uniquely Spanish way, people have time to gradually tell their many stories and provide their views (if they want to) and from these stories relationships build based on an enjoyment of each other and a shared common humanity. It’s quite authentic and soulful.

    As we get closer to Santiago, and the trail gets more congested, us longer walkers are noting interactions are becoming more transactional; the trail is lacking the specialness of earlier interactions. It is as though we are being asked to return to the modern world again. The question will be how we retain the space to continue to tell our stories and retain some of the positive human interactions that have come out of this not so ordinary walk.

    We are physically tired. We walk. We shower. We rest. We know we are getting close to the end of our Camino. Just two more days of 20km each. We’re trying to make sense of this not so ordinary walk.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Primitivo
    2
    Day 12

    12. Tag: Ferreira nach Melide

    July 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    20km und 450 Höhenmeter
    Die Etappe ging so schnell rum, was sind denn 20km? Es ging heute viel Berg hoch aber immer angemessen, keine super steilen Anstiege. Leider wieder viel auf der Straße aber zwischendurch gab es auch kurze Abstecher durch verlassene Dörfer oder Waldstücke. Den 1. Kaffee gab es morgens aus dem Automaten ~5km weiter, weil wir keinen in unserer Herberge trinken wollten. Nach dem 1. Kaffee läuft es sich meistens besser 👍🏼 Unterwegs lud nicht viel zum Pause machen ein, aber dann kam eine schicke neue Bar; die nichtmal in meinem Wanderführer erwähnt wurde. Gott sei dank! Denn langsam wurde es echt heiß und ich habe mich nach einem kalten Getränk gesehnt. Man freut sich irgendwann so sehr über die kleinen Dinge und alles schmeckt so viel besser wenn man sich so sehr danach sehnt. In Melide angekommen war ich sehr enttäuscht. Super hässlich das Dörfchen mit nichtmal 10000 Einwohnern. Galizien ist echt arm! Die Herberge ist dafür echt super! Der Herbergsvater hat uns noch ein Restaurant empfohlen und ich habe mich noch nie so sehr über ein Teller voll Gemüse gefreut. Das tat so gut endlich einfach Gemüse zu essen. Es war so unfassbar lecker 😍
    Morgen steht eine richtig kurze aber relativ knackige Etappe an. Ich habe aber alle Zeit der Welt.    Read more

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  • Camino de Santiago (Frances)
    212
    Day 53

    Day 41-Melide

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    It rained during all but the last hour of our 12+ mile walk. It wasn't bad on the pavement but half the time we were on a dirt trail the turned into a dirt river with thick, mucky mud. I slipped at one point and landed on one knee. No real injury, just a dirty knee and a small cut on my hand.

    A highlight of the day was meeting an American couple that moved to Spain five years ago. Kelli blogs about their life in Spain and just published a book that is set on the Camino. I was able to get a signed copy from her and we all had a great chat.

    Then we trudged along several more miles in the rain. We didn't take many pictures because it was raining too hard so the ones you see are pretty tame. I'm proud that we toughed it out and walked every step. We saw a huge group of pilgrims waiting for a bus.

    We're expecting more of the same tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino
    Day 44

    Arzua to Pedrouzo

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Can not believe we only have one more day of walking on the Camino Frances and under 20 km left to go.
    We started off this morning in the pouring rain and quite a bit of wind so not ideal walking conditions but us hardy souls knew the show must go on. It quite dark at 8 am now so we don't want to leave too early and we are not dealing with the heat of the Meseta
    The paths are becoming increasingly crowded with pilgrims but we can not complain as we are part of the crowd! Although there are at times too many in the cafes there is also a festive vibe now. I think we all know the end is near and the challenge of the 780 km walk has almost been achieved.
    Luckily Brian's spider bite did not get worse overnight and armed with panadol and a good antihistamine cream he managed the 20 km walk.
    The day did improve and was again very pretty and very rural. I must say when we are walking in forests of gum trees and the wind is fierce I am very happy to move along quickly.
    We had the most delicious lunch today. The boys had hamburgers which they declared the best they had eaten. I had a delicious blue cheese tomato salad. This area is famous for the soft cheeses they make plus their octopus dishes.
    Pedrouza doesn't look to be the most exciting town and our window is looking out to cows!
    Shoes are holding out just and with the rain and a bit of mud they are not overly waterproof.
    We still continue to meet different interesting people every day and re meet up with others. Lee went up to 3 Sth African walkers and quietly stated that the All Blacks will beat SA in the final! This created great shrieks of protests and laughs.
    Today there was a group of about 6 blind people all with guides walking on the track. There seems to be a great army of volunteers who support the disabled on the Camino.
    The wind is blowing outside but the Spanish wine, octopus, and cheeses are waiting for us!
    Buen Camino.    Read more

  • Azores and Camino 2023
    1
    11312
    Day 48

    A Salceda

    October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Pojawiają się pomału uczucia, zadowolenie z dojścia do celu jak i żalu, że się to już kończy. Tęsknoty za bliskimi i tęsknoty za brakiem odpowiedzi na wszystkie pytania. Szczęścia z uniesienia choć jednego kamienia i jednej dobrej odpowiedzi, którą się usłyszy i jednocześnie zadumanie nad ogromem nowych pytań i nowych kamieni, które chciało by się oddać w dobre ręce.
    Było dzisiaj dość dużo bardzo pomarszczonej drogi, ale na szczęście na krótkich odcinkach. Przechodziliśmy koło paru zewnętrznie ładnych kościółkach, ale były one niestety zamknięte. Nasza grupa wędrująca nam się powiększyła. Większość trasy spędziliśmy w piątkę tzn Kasia, AJ, Anna, Judy i ja. Dochodząc do Arzua, przechodzi się koło fontanny, o której legenda mówi, że leczy wszystko, miałem ochotę się w niej wykąpać.
    Arzua po za tym, że jest miastem przemysłowym to słynie z wyrobu pysznych serów, także jeden cały okrąg został pobrany, mam nadzieję, że uda się go dowieźć do domu.
    Śpimy w miejscu gdzie jest doskonała kuchnia. Miałem golonkę, która była chyba najlepsza jaką kiedykolwiek miałem. Jutro ostatnia noc przed Santiago.    Read more

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  • TravelerCamino 2019
    2
    1
    Day 33

    Boente

    September 23, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Aufbruch erst um 7:30 h, so dass ich zum Start einen vernünftigen Kaffee hatte - für mich macht das einen Riesenunterschied :-). Kleines Frühstück in Palas de Rei, Lunch in Melide - das waren dann die nennenswerten Orte des Tages. Es nieselt immer mal, der Himmel ist bedeckt. Eichen- und Kiefernwälder, Brombeeren, Farn, viel Grünland wirken -zumal mit norddeutschem Schmuddelwetter- sehr vertraut. Nur die Eukalyptusbäume und die allgegenwärtigen Mauern ums Weideland sind dann doch sehr galizisch. Auch sieht man jetzt immer mehr der typischen alten Kornspeicher (Horreos), die quasi ein Wahrzeichen Galiziens sind. Übrigens ist kein Wild zu sehen, extrem wenig Krähen.... Hier wird nicht lange gefackelt.
    Weiterhin ist es ab mittags sehr voll auf den Wegen, aber viele haben heute schon den Bus genommen, um die Etappe zu überspringen (haben natürlich trotzdem die 2 erforderlichen Stempel ....nun ja).
    Positiv anzumerken ist, dass unser 750 km- Lauftraining sich auswirkt: Patti und ich können locker sogar bergauf schnellen Schrittes an allen vorbeiziehen :-)).    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    2
    Day 37–38

    Day 36 - Boente, Spain

    October 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    32 miles to Santiago

    We had not seen our friend Gretchen for 12 days. We had dinner and caught up tonight. We’ll walk together tomorrow. Gretchen quit her insurance admin job 18 months ago at 55, and now travels. A lot! She is full of stories.

    It’s exciting to imagine walking onto Santiago on Sunday!    Read more

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