Sainte-Croix

Today’s stage is sometimes said to be the most beautiful stage of the entire Via Francigena. It may well be; it was really stunning.

It wasn’t easy, and parts were a little challenging, but, after crossing the Great Saint Bernard Pass and descending to Aosta, our standards have changed a bit and we didn’t find it that difficult.

We began by descending down into the Orbe River gorge and spent the day following the river, sometimes way down at water level, sometimes high above it on ledges along sheer rock cliffs. The trail was well developed and many of the more dangerous parts had cable installed. Five tunnels had been blasted through the cliff where no trail was possible and we crossed the river four times. The views were outstanding.

Towards the end we stopped to look at the map and figure out where the trail went. We determined that it went straight, but just as we did, a local fellow asked where we were going, and said it was best to turn right. He said we could go straight, of course, but turning was better, he was local, he did it all the time with his wife and children, it wasn’t difficult, it wasn’t dangerous, etc., etc., etc., but “comme vous voulez” which is French for “do what you want but if you don’t do it the way I suggest you are a complete idiot!” (That’s not a literal translation, but we speak French well, pick up the nuances, and understood him perfectly!)

Back when we were sailors there was a saying, “local knowledge beats any chart” so we did what he said and had a lovely walk to the end of the stage. Local knowledge beats iPhone map apps too!

We set out in search of food, not having eaten since breakfast (except for the Italian biscuits we carry for days when there are no cafes or bars).

Orbe, population 6,936, is larger than the last two towns we stayed in, but it was Sunday and we were disappointed to find that every restaurant was closed, including the one at our hotel. One bar was open, but their kitchen had closed.

Fortunately, a Sausage and Cabbage Festival was still going strong and we scored two large portions of sausage and cabbage ravioli, hand made, cooked on the spot at a booth and served in a leek cream sauce. It was delicious. We ate it with some local wine sitting in the festival tent where we met some local people.

We then explored the town. There was a local band with lots of percussion and brass instruments that was a lot of fun to watch. There was, of course, a castle and from its grounds the views back to the Alps were stunning.

We tasted a local wine and, when we asked where the grapes were from, the proprietor walked us to the edge of the castle grounds and pointed out his vineyards in the distance.

We then retired to our hotel to wash the mud off our pants legs and get ready for tomorrow’s stage.Read more