United Kingdom Dunvegan

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  • Day 64

    Ile de Skye 2

    November 2, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    C'est la tempête !
    Entre deux averses nous aurons quand même réussi à nous promener! Malheureusement, 10 minutes mal calculées en pleine pluie auront suffi à nous tremper de haut en bas sous nos vêtements "imperméables".
    (Comme quoi, la norme des vêtements imperméables en France ne s'applique pas ici...)

    Découverte le matin de Neist point et sa lighthouse plein ouest, arrêt à l'abris dans la distillerie Talisker puis recherche de la grotte de Spar (hélas on a été plus lents que la marée et l'entrée de la grotte nous est demeurée close...).
    Nous avons fini par une randonnée (/ballade) le long de la côte sud est depuis le village d'Elgol! Magnifique malgré le mauvais temps!
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  • Day 7

    Day 7 - Hughes Castle, Isle of Skye

    November 1, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This was a last-minute stop Deanna found while Googling castles, and it turned out to be one of the funniest stops we’ve had so far.

    The road was very narrow, and when we arrived at the gate, we weren’t sure if we were entering private property. Deanna suggested we turn the vehicle around in case another car came, so we wouldn’t get trapped.

    The blog Deanna found about this castle hike clearly stated to park here and walk to it. We hiked along a farm road and through fields until we finally reached the castle.

    This castle has no door on the main level; rumor has it that they used to pull down a ladder to access the top level door and then hoist it back up to keep out intruders.

    After enjoying the view, we headed back to our vehicle, not expecting what we would find.
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  • Day 5

    Isle of Skye

    October 26, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Today we experienced torrential rain (we were warned about Scotland and rain) so we took a drive on the Isle of Sky to the Talisker Whisky distillery. The drinking and driving tolerance here is 0, so I drove and Bas had a whisky.

    Last night was a comedy of errors. Our hotel had a gas leak in the kitchen so it was closed for meals. The receptionist drove us 15 mins to their sister hotel for food and dropped us off. Just as we got in the door (and our driver had left) we were told their chef had closed up shop and gone home sick. After an hour or so, and many phone calls, the displaced chef (from the gas leak kitchen) drove to pick us up and took us 17 mins back the other way to a rather stuffy restaurant (somewhere royalty would eat). Though very formal and rich, it was food and we were hungry. It’s quite remote where we stayed so dining options were limited.
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  • Day 365

    Dunvegan Castle

    June 17, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Leider hat sich das trockene Wetter nicht gehalten. Also mussten wir uns ein Castle zum besichtigen suchen, dass keine Ruine ist.
    Dunvegan Castle ist der Stammsitz der McLeods und diente den Clanchiefs über 800 Jahre als Wohnsitz. Nur während einer Hungersnot ist der Clanchief mit seiner Familie ausgezogen, um das Schloss zu verpachten.
    Auf dem Gelände wurde während des viktorianischen Zeitalters sehr schöne Gärten angelegt und da der Regen inzwischen aufgehört hatte, konnten wir dort auch spazieren gehen.
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  • Day 72

    Dunvegan > Fairy Pools - 70km

    June 8, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Notre tente sert maintenant de salle à manger en plus d’être une chambre : la pluie étant à nouveau au rendez-vous ce matin, nous prenons notre petit-déjeuner dans la tente.
    Remballer toutes les affaires est un peu plus long car il faut s’adapter à la pluie mais également s’habituer aux vêtements humides ou mouillés.

    Nous partons tant bien que mal vers Coral Beach qui n’est qu’à seulement 3km. Ce sera notre premier stop avec une petite randonnée de 30 minutes qui nous permettra d’admirer la côte mais également cette plage toute blanche avec une mer d’un bleu éclatant.

    Nous reprenons ensuite la route pour redescendre l’île de Skye par la côte Est : les paysages sont très différents, des falaises marrons et vertes tombent à pic dans la mer d’un bleu sombre, battue par le vent. Nous apercevons au loin la petite île d’Arronsay, accessible à marée basse puis nous nous dirigeons vers Talisker Bay, sa fameuse distillerie de whisky et sa plage... Sur laquelle nous avons juste le temps de nous arrêter avant de nous prendre une énorme averse, les vélos, appuyés sur une barrière sont même tombés à cause des rafales de vent.
    C’est donc trempés que nous faisons marche arrière et il continue à pleuvoir car le gros nuage va dans notre sens.

    Avant de trouver où poser notre tente pour la nuit, nous décidons d’aller dîner et surtout sécher dans un pub à Carbost. L’ambiance est au rendez-vous, la qualité de la nourriture un peu moins mais nous avons l’énergie pour refaire 40 min de vélo et nous installer en pleine forêt pour la nuit. Heureusement il ne fait pas nuit avant 23h-23h30 en ce moment !
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  • Day 22

    Erkundung der Isle of Skye

    March 26, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 5 °C

    Wir nutzen den schönen Tag, um die Skye zu erkunden. Als erstes ließen wir uns fast wegpusten auf dem Neist Point. Da wir beide etwas angeschlagen sind, beschlossen wir nicht zum Leuchturm vorzugehen, sondern ihn aus der Ferne zu betrachten. Anschließend fuhren wir zu einem weißen Strand, der aus kleinen Muscheln- und Korallenteilen bestand. Auch hier war der Wind sehr stark, aber wir genossen die Sonne auf unserem Gesicht. Mittags holten wir uns eine kleine Pizza in einem Foodtruck und fuhren dann weiter zum Old man of Storr. Die wohl bekannteste Felsformation auf der Skye. Unser letzter Stop waren die Fairy Pools. Hier sollen Feen leben. Und genau neben diesen Pools, haben wir Bergkristalle gefunden, welche wir natürlich sofort mitnehmen mussten.Read more

  • Day 22

    Fairy Glenns and Fairy Pools

    September 28, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We have a reservation on the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig for Friday mid day. The reason we want to take the ferry is that the steam train travels from Fort William to Mallaig. Just outside Mallaig is the Glenfinnen Aqueduct. We are hoping to arrive at the aqueduct in time to get pictures of the train going across it. Think Harry Potter. We started our day at the Fairy Glen. What a beautiful spot. There were plenty of people there, but it was early enough that we had no problem finding a parking spot. The weather forecast for today made us laugh 100% chance of rain all day. The funny thing was we woke up to no rain. When we wandered around Fairy Glen, no rain. We stopped at a very small grocery store for a few supplies, and at first, I was so disappointed because I couldn't find anything. I noticed a sign that said "more this way," and there was another little room. More groceries and another sign leading to another little room with more groceries. It seemed like shopping in a convenience store back home, but I was able to get everything I needed, and when they rang up my purchases, it was less than half of what I expected. We went into the Skye Island Brewery looking for a t-shirt for Randy, but no luck. Plenty of every size but what he needed. We came out without a t-shirt, but I had a bag full of little gifts for the grandkids. Gifts for the grandkids at a brewery. What a bad grandma. Honestly, they really are great little souvenirs. We decided to check Dunvegan out. First we went to the castle but you couldn't see anything from the road and we didn't want to go inside so we went to the village. We found a great spot to park and took a stroll checking out the sights. We had a really nice lunch at the Dunvegan Cafe and met a cute little guy from Germany named Tom. He and his parents were traveling in a van with their two dogs. All five of them were beside us in the restaurant, and they were quite entertaining. Tom turned one on September 18. He is quite the little traveler. The next stop on our tour was the Talisker Distillery. This place has been making whiskey since 1830. It's a beautiful spot and the visitors center is really well done. They are very committed to caring for our oceans. There was some great information on work that is being done to mitigate the damage we continue to do. Unfortunately, neither of us liked their whiskey. Did I mention we still haven't had any rain today. Unbelievable we have been outside all day and haven't been rained on yet. After the distillery, we headed to The Fairy Pools. This is a very popular spot, so the Highland Council has invested in a very large parking lot with beautiful washrooms. It was £8 to park there but so worth it. I was really looking forward to this walk and I wasn't disappointed, it was so beautiful. Towering hills and beautiful small waterfalls and rushing water. Crazy winds but no rain, we really enjoyed our walk along the pools. The pictures don't do it justice. On the drive to the falls we noticed a hidden parking area with a campervan in it, so we decided to see if it would be a good place to spend the night. It was. It's a trailhead for the Glenbrittle forest walk, and there were no signs saying you can't park overnight. When we first arrived, there were three of us. I think there may be about 11 for the night. It's very quiet and very dark. We could hear the wind, but we didn't really feel it. While we were making dinner, the rain started. It's pored all night, but we were so grateful it held off all day.Read more

  • Day 15

    The Isle of Skye

    September 22, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We travelled north from Glasgow and stopped for a look at Balloch, and the southern tip of Loch Lomond.

    Even in cold and rather threatening weather, it was still very attractive, with the imposing Ben Lomond rising into the most in the distance. There were very few people around, but, judging by the acres of car parking, it must be packed in summer.

    Then we spent the night just south of Fort William before catching the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale, on the south of the island.

    Actually, this glosses over an episode of incompetence by the boys in the party, who between them couldn’t get the **$$@&!! car into reverse gear! Calls to the rental company and a wait for roadside assistance - who then kindly showed us what to do and, more kindly, didn’t laugh out loud - meant our drinks at the local pub were well-earned.

    We arrived on Skye in the rain, and made our way to the Fairy Pools. Cascading blue and green pools, they say. Gushing, grey-brown water oozing out of every pore of the countryside is what we found, so damp was everything. It was still rather special, although the cold wind and sporadic showers of rain made it a bit uncomfortable.

    The following day we drove north-east to a series of fascinating landmarks, the countryside largely treeless and covered in heather and other low, hardy plants. Hills are steep, with numerous watercourses tumbling down their slopes. Each glimpse of the sea is another beautiful vista, even in the grey rain and mist.

    In between sojourns in the car, we piled out, rugged up, paid handsomely for parking and walked up to another landmark.

    The Old Man of Storr and The Quirang are basalt pinnacles towering over the surrounding area. Kilt Rock is a 105-metre ocean cliff and Mealt Falls drop straight off the edge of the island into the ocean.

    Then there’s Lealt Falls and the Fairy Glen, which was very picturesque, although there were no fairies about. There was quite an amount of fairy droppings on the ground, though, so we could tell they had been there.

    The driving between many of these locations was on single-lane roads, with passing places every fifty or hundred metres apart. It was a little nerve wracking, with oncoming traffic emerging from blind crests and curves, a little too much speed and plenty of oversized camper vans taking up space.

    Our final stop on Skye was Dunvegan Castle, quite nicely preserved and filled with stories of the local Lairds and assorted tenuous connections to royalty.

    That concluded a busy few days. We stayed in a very remote bed and breakfast, with wonderful sea views but certainly not walkable to anything except more hills, so are looking forward to finding a pub in Inverness in the next chapter.
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  • Day 51

    Isle of Skye

    September 21, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Skye was wet ... very wet 🌧️. And windy ... very windy 💨. We drove around the whole island and visited the highlights in between rain showers. Luckily, these made up for the weather, the landscape on Skye is just magnificent!

    We hiked up the Quirang with views over the Trotternish Ridge, admired the Old Man of Storr on the other end of the same ridge, visited a few isolated capes that offered wide sea views, went out of our way to reach the picturesque Neist Point Lighthouse and saw the so-called Fairy Pools turned into Devil Pools. In between stops, we warmed up in every possible cute coffee shop 🍰.

    After 4 days of mixed feelings, we fled the island in search of a hostel with a warm shower, a washing machine and a drying room 🚿. After all, it's not that easy to travel with Otto in these conditions. On the bright side, waterfalls were more impressive than usual, we saw lots of rainbows 🌈 and we learned how to move from the driving compartment to the sleeping compartment, how to cook a decent meal and how to dry our clothes, all without getting out of our car.
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  • Day 24

    Im Reich der Feen und der Leuchtfeuer

    September 9, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Das Wetter schlägt um.
    Wir machen uns wieder auf den Weg.
    Als unser heutiges Nachtlager haben wir die Gegend um das Neist Point Lighthouse auserkoren. Eine schöne Küstenlandschaft mit Steilklippen und einem alten Leuchthaus.

    Der Weg zum Leuchtturm war doch ziemlich steil und mit vielen vielen Stufen versehen. Für den Blick auf die Klippen hat sich das Treppen steigen gelohnt. Diese Ecke der Isle of Sky gilt als must see.
    Also musste gesehen haben

    Vorab sind wir allerdings noch durch das Tal der Feen, dem Fairy Glen gewandert. Einem kleinen verwunschenem Tal, das durch einen Erdrutsch, der rauhen Natur und dem zutun der Feen (😉) seinen verwunschenen Charme erhalten hat.

    Das schottische Wetter mit seinen vorbeiziehenden Wolken und Nebelfeldern hat diesen besonderen Eindruck auf uns verstärkt.

    Wirklich bezaubernd 🪄

    Und wenn die Feen noch etwas Magie übrig haben, wäre es klasse, wenn sie die schottischen Straßen etwas auf Vordermann zaubern.

    Denn die sind nicht bezaubernd sondern genau so wild und zerklüftet wie die Highlands.
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