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Arrondissement de Mende

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    • Day 205

      Gorges du Tarn - Saint Enimie

      July 16 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Um nach Saint Enimie zu gelangen fahren wir ein Stück an der sagenhaften Tarnschlucht entlang. Saint Enimie wird zu Recht als eine der schönsten Dörfern Frankreichs bezeichnet. Im Winter zählt es 500 Einwohner, im Sommer finden ca. 3000 Autos am Tag den Weg ins Dorf🙈. Die Gemeinde ist sehr bemüht das Dorf in seiner ursprünglichen Art zu erhalten und man bekommt über Infotafeln viel über das damalige Leben mit. Es ist ein wirklicher Genuss durch die kleinen Gassen zu laufen😍Read more

    • Day 101

      Schnee in den Pyrenäen

      April 19 in France ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      Die Fahrt über die mautfreie AP 7 bei sonnigem Wetter verläuft problemlos. Wir übernachten nochmals in Spanien auf dem kostenfreien Stellplatz in Girona. Der Platz ist schon gut gefüllt als wir nachmittags ankommen.

      https://maps.app.goo.gl/G4cDHyRL5LWYQh9AA?g_st=ic

      Ist eigentlich klar bei der spannenden Stadt, die fußläufig durch einen Park in 2 Kilometern zu erreichen ist. Auch wir lassen uns durch die Altstadtgassen treiben und machen das obligatorische Foto auf die Häuser die sich im Fluss spiegeln.
      Die Strecke über die A 75 durch Frankreichs Berge ermöglicht bei toller Fernsicht traumhafte Blicke in die schneebedeckten Pyrenäen. Überall blüht der Ginster, es ist bunt auf den Wiesen.
      Dieses Mal nutzen wir wieder das französische System Pass’Étapes, „Camping-Car Park“. 12 Euro kostet der Platz. Er beinhaltet Strom, Ver-Entsorgung und freies Wifi. Wir schlafen super ruhig in dem Dorf Canourgue, das von der Autobahn aus in wenigen Kilometern erreicht wird.
      Wir machen in der untergehenden Sonne einen Spaziergang durch den alten Ort, der wegen seiner vielen Känäle auch „Klein- Venedig“ genannt wird.

      https://maps.app.goo.gl/RmVrcsMnsjqSpZfh7?g_st=ic

      Heute Morgen zeigt das Thermometer 5 Grad an. Die Sonne scheint aber noch.
      Tja, die Wintersachen müssen wohl wieder aus den hinteren Schrankregionen nach vorne geräumt werden. 🥲
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    • Day 91

      St. Guilhem le Dèsert und die Cevennen

      March 24 in France ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

      Von Balaruc fuhren wir in Richtung Cevennen. Unser erstes Ziel war die Brücke Pont du Diable, die bei Saint Jean de Fos den Hérault überquert. Die Brücke diente seit dem 11ten Jahrhundert Händlern aus dem Süden in den Norden und umgekehrt und den Jacobspilgern auf der Via domitia nach Santiago.
      Weiter ging es dann zur Plus beau Village St. Guilhalm de Dessert mit seinem im 8ten Jahrhundert erbauten Kloster mit Kirche. Nach dem Besuch der Abbaye de Gellone weilten wir etwas bei einem Ricard auf der Place de la Liberté bevor wir das Ticket wegen falschen Parkens von der Windschutzscheibe entfernten.
      Und weiter ging es durch die Cevennen auf Departementsstraßen, auf denen kaum zwei Fahrzeuge aneinander vorbei kommen, durch Kurven über Kurven, durch tiefe Schluchten und Wälder, kurz gesagt, durch eine abenteuerliche Landschaft.
      Da wir nicht Recht voran kamen und unser Ziel Langogne nur sehr spät und in vollster Dunkelheit erreichen konnten, machten wir in Villefort am Fuße des Mont Lozère und neben dem Lac de Villefort auf einem Campingplatz schon im Dunkeln halt und belegten einfach mal einen Platz. Das Tor war jedenfalls auf, aber im Internet haben wir dann gelesen, dass der Platz erst am 1. April öffnet.
      Schaun ma mal.
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    • Day 14

      Now, that’s a knife!

      September 27, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      We were very excited about our morning activity today. We were off to Laguiole to see the Laguiole Knife Museum, to learn about their history and see these most beautiful knives being made. Unfortunately, due to COVID, they have lost most of the staff who speak English, so the guy who gave us the history talk couldn’t parler Anglais. The solution was to have myself and Ian, with some help from Mary, interpret! (Ed - Danielle did a fantastic job.) There were a couple of moments where things got lost in translation, but overall I think it was a great team effort. The most amusing part was when he was explaining the use of the “spike”, the third element added to the knives. It was developed to punch cows in the stomach to relieve gas pressure if they had eaten too much green grass. He also seemed to be suggesting a similar use if people had eaten too much. But, in the end we realised it was to punch an extra hole in the belt.

      After the history and a demonstration of how the knives are made, polished etc, and a walk through their museum, we were let loose in the shop. There were so many options, it was quite overwhelming, but we all made a purchase.

      After our close encounter with knives, we hit the road and travelled to Buron de Camejane, a typical dairy farm from the Aubrac region to see Aligot being made and then having it for lunch with a grilled beef saucisson. This dish comprises, potato, Tome and Fourme cheese, butter, cream and S & P. (Ed - more or less a heart attack on a plate.) It was delicious, but virtually impossible to finish. We had a rum punch to start and wine was also available. For the meal we had charcuterie for entree, a cheese course after the Aligot main, and the best blueberry pie I have ever had for dessert. Everything was delicious and I think we will need to walk some way to burn off the Aligot.

      As the weather was quite bad (cold, wet and windy), especially as we were on an escarpment 1,300 metres above sea level, we reviewed the schedule and, instead of walking from Aubrac to Les Cambrassats (which was over 10km), we did a much shorter 3 km walk finishing in the delightful town of Saint Côme d’Olt. Fortunately we had good weather for our walk. We walked around the town and picked up some supplies before arriving at our accommodation for the evening, a Covent that has been converted into a simple hotel. The rooms were basic, but clean and comfortable and we were served meals ‘cafeteria style’. It was a nice experience and the nuns were lovely (not like the horrible nuns I had at school).
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    • Day 73

      Aubrac und die Turmherberge

      May 12, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

      Durch endlosen Regen geht es über die endlose (bei gutem Wetter bestimmt noch viel schönere) Hochebene weiter in den mittelalterlich wirkenden Ort Aubrac. Hier erwartet mich die nächste Überraschung: meine Herberge für heute Nacht ist in einem richtigen Turm untergebracht!Read more

    • Day 8

      Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals

      April 26 in France ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Very upmarket buffet, and then David, the joint-manager (with his brother- the family has run the hotel since 1928) took it upon himself to solve the luggage issue. He rang the same people on the same number, but was not taking no for an answer, and decided the solution was for the case to go to the Post office ( if it wasn't there) and for La Malle Postale to pick it up (likely tomorrow) and take it to our hotel for tomorrow. Lots of animated phone calls later he assured us it would be done, and sent us off. We were hoping but not convinced.

      Today was along day - 27km officially, but 30km or so as both hotels were away from the town centres. We also crossed the Aubrac Plateau, which has rave reviews as a beautiful heath land, and in summer they are probably deserved...

      It was drizzling as we left in the new ponchos (which worked well) and Saint Craig of Kiama (he of umbrella yesterday) had lent me a pair of waterproof over-trousers which he said were too big for him. They probably were too big, as they were big for me, but in the cold and the rain they were a godsend.

      The country was grey because of the clouds, but everywhere were long, low stone walls, green fields, or paddocks with daffodils, and small woods. Most of the track was a walkway between paddocks, but we were on rural roads now and then. That was better than the boggy sections: they were horrendous after just a little rain, so I can only imagine WWI.

      Unfortunately the sleet and rain began in earnest around 1015, and kept on until around 2pm, along with a gale. I doubt my chinos would have survived the mud, or have dried out by dinner. We were warm enough under the ponchos, but fingers number quickly, and stayed numb until the wind stopped, or the rare burst of sun. Having said that, it wasn’t too bad with the ponchos and waterproof boots: we could walk along quickly without getting hot.

      We went through a few hamlets, but no villages or towns, but made good time because it was too windy , wet and cold to stop except inside, and the few little cafes we saw were crowded, or in the open. We saw a man with a Phileas Fogg type contraption harvesting daffodils in the driving sleet... unsuccessfully, though, as he seemed to spend as much time under the machine as on it. Maybe he was sheltering?

      After passing through a few small hamlets and past occasional churches, we finally made it to Nasbinals. It is a lovely old village with grey/fawn coloured stone houses, all with rooves made of flat rocks.

      One family has a monopoly on hotels in the town, and guests are apparently allocated on the day. We reached the first hotel on the outskirts of the village and were pleased we could have a break, but our names weren't on the list for rooms there. We walked into town to the central place (with restaurant and bar) but we weren't there, either. We had to walk 500m to another side of the town, but it was flat and not raining.

      Dinner was in the town rather than the hotel, and the same local specialties that Rosie and Amr had nearly 10 yrs ago - very good. Aligot (mashed potato plus cheese and garlic - consistency of play-dough) was a sight to behold, and very tasty, along with a local sausage.

      Just before we went we had an email from David, the Aumont-Aubrac manager, with a small glitch: the bag was delivered to the Le Puy post so late that it could not be collected today, and the Post is closed all weekend (plus perhaps Monday as a public holiday) so it will not be collected by la Malle Postale until Tuesday, and hopefully early enough then for it to be delivered to us where we will be that night - a town called Golinac. Four more days of only one pair of pants and shoes instead of one day more...but a timeline that ought to be achievable.

      Our hotel is a branch of a family hotel business. 1. Opened at 4... but if you knew your room number you could take your key and go in anyway. 2. Wifi and soap, but no tea or coffee. 3 Great view over open fields 4. Bed seems okay. 5. Quiet. 6. the ogress who did not want to let anyone in to breakfast...

      41,520 steps, 32.6km and 44 flights.
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    • Day 25–26

      Day 25 - Finieyroles - Aubrac

      May 16 in France ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      La Rose d’Aubrac was a lovely gite but Simon struggling more and more with the communal meals 😳
      We were treated to a bland veg soup, truffelade ( kind of bubble and squeak with cream, garlic and cheese) and apple confit. Then Simon allowed to thankfully escape.
      We were only English speakers so was a challenge- but we were made to feel welcome.
      Up early for bread, jam and coffee. Then once more onto the Aubrac plateau. A place of solitude, bird song, flowers and lots of streams to breach. Really reminding us of Yorkshire moorlands and in places the Isle of Man 🇮🇲
      We came through sunshine, wind, hail and rain - thank goodness for my new poncho 😆
      Stopped in the quaint town of Nasbinals for a lovely sandwich and got an extra stamp on our credentials (pilgrims passports). 19 km later we have now arrived in Aubrac and are sitting viewing beautiful scenery waiting to check in at tonight’s digs.
      Simon tried the local drink pastis on our wet rest day - it’s rather like Greek ouzo!!
      He’s going for it again today!!
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    • Day 73

      Im Regen nach Nasbinals

      May 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Natürlich bleibe ich auch heute nicht verschont und es beginnt bald wieder zu regnen. So erreiche ich, neugierige Kühe und endlose, gatschige Wege passierend, gegen Mittag den Ort Nasbinals. Hier gibt es wieder einmal die letzte Einkaufsmöglichkeit bis morgen, also stocke ich noch für das Abendessen auf.Read more

    • Day 73

      Über die Hochebene von Aubrac

      May 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      Nach dem wieder äußerst französischen Frühstück - ohne Teller und mit Kaffee aus dem Schüsserl, wo die echten Franzosen ihr Baguette eintauchen - mache ich mich alleine auf den Weg. Magdalena und Benedikt haben heute in einer anderen Gîte übernachtet, weil in meiner kein Platz mehr war, außerdem hat Benedikt heute seinen letzten Tag, bevor er aufhört Magdalena zu begleiten und nach Hause fahren muss, also haben die beiden sicher gerne noch etwas Zeit für sich.
      Es hört genau rechtzeitig auf zu regnen, aber natürlich ist trotzdem alles nass, kalt und dunstig. Trotzdem ist die weite Hochebene des Parc naturel régional de l'Aubrac, über die ich mich bewege, umwerfend schön. Sie erinnert eher an die schottischen Highlands. Auch das Wetter passt dazu.
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    • Day 24–25

      Day 23/24 - Aumont Aubrac - Finieyrols

      May 15 in France ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      We are very glad yesterday was a rest day as it bucketed it down with rain all day and we saw some very wet pilgrims. We got our laundry done then headed out for a slap up lunch. After exploring a few grumpy venues we ended up back at our fave restaurant from the day before. We were well looked after by our cheerful waitress. We had to leave our sopping coats in the barn next door. However when we went to retrieve them only Simon’s nuclear yellow anorak remained 😳
      I had to knock on the window as they had locked up. They found a replacement in a drawer which ended up being much better than the one that had disappeared!!😂
      Up early this morning- 1 toilet between 8!!
      Had petit dejeuner, tidied up the little cottage and hoofed it off into a drier day.
      Our path took us up onto the Aubrac plateau. There was a steady stream of pilgrims that the Plodicus picked off group by group with Mary steadily bringing up the rear.
      The plateau had lots of daffodils and looked very much like Derbyshire and Yorkshire moors.
      16km done and we rest in a little hamlet called Finieyroles for the evening. We are 3 hours early for check in so ‘just hanging around’ watching pilgrims drift in and out.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arrondissement de Mende

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