Frankrike
Département de la Haute-Marne

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    • Dag 31

      Champlitte 15 miles

      12 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Well all I can say about last night is thank goodness I am only 5 ft 7 as I banged my head often enough even with that rather modest height. Just the strangest room I have ever slept in.

      While “enjoying” the usual rubbish breakfast it occurred to me that the pilgrim diet has virtually no fruit and vegetables at all and it is quite difficult to improve it. Nothing is available at breakfast unless you count orange juice. Lunch doesn’t usually happen at all except for a Snickers bar and dinner seldom has any veg options at all.

      So I made a mental note to try harder to source f & v whenever possible. Luckily today I passed a supermarket on the way out of town this morning and purchased a couple of bananas and a massive Pink Lady apple for lunch. Start as I mean to continue.

      Walking was fairly uneventful except for a thunderstorm for the last half hour. No point in getting the waterproofs out as I would be washing out my clothes as soon as I arrived anyway and it wasn’t cold.

      Managed to book a pilgrim’s place for tonight at the last minute. Quite relieved as I have avoided wild camping so far and I was in no hurry to start. This place is a bit grim - the shower has been blocked since the last occupant had a shower but it is only 20€ and so far I seem to be the only occupant. Just one bedroom with 2 sets of bunk beds crammed in.

      No restaurant but there is a supermarket in walkable distance. Went for gazpacho and a sort of “prawn on a bed of cold mixed veg” thing with a lemon meringue pie to follow. For those interested in such things a litre of gazpacho is quite a lot. And I have some things for breakfast/lunch tomorrow. Doing my best with the f & v stuff.
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    • Dag 30

      Chalindrey 16 miles

      11 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Woken by my fellow guests arriving at 1.30am. They then knocked on my door to ask if they could use the shower. Couldn’t really refuse although I really wanted them to go to bed asap. In the morning my sociability got the better of me as I stayed in bed until after they left. I’ve never needed much of an excuse to stay in bed of course.

      Big decision to make on the walking. The route took 16 miles to wander round a lake or I could take a road which got there in 6. It was a beautiful day and I had no excuse for the shortcut so I hoofed round the lake. Mostly in shade but still hot. Used the Tilley hat for only the second time. I suspect I look more of a prat than usual but too bad.

      Apparently all French cemeteries must have a drinking water tap. Don’t ask me why. Dead bodies don’t drink much I would have thought. But damned useful for the pilgrims. Especially on days like today when I couldn’t get enough water down me. (Sitting outside in 25C while writing this and drinking yet another litre of water. Don’t think I have had a pee all day - but you might not have wanted to know that. )

      In a chambre d’hote tonight again. As luck would have it on the hottest night so far I am in this wee room in the eaves with only a tiny window (see photo). Going to be sweaty one I think.

      I was told there was a fast food place nearby so I went out to look for it. Came upon a bar. Now I don’t think I have had a drink for at least a couple of weeks but the heat did make it seem quite appealing. Half of Leffe went down very well. Got instructions to the local chippie. Just like student days, following the pub with a chippie. Only managed half of it. Just don’t seem to have much of an appetite these days.

      Can’t see that lasting when I get home!
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    • Dag 1

      20. September, Am Stausee bei Langres

      20 september 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Die ersten ca. 470 km führten uns heute über Belgien, Luxemburg (Diesel für 1,69€ getankt) tief nach Frankreich 🇫🇷 hinein.
      Das ist die erste Reise mit unserem neuen Kopiloten „Dana“.
      Dana, ein Labrador-Redriever-Mischling ist seit dem 4. August bei uns. Und sie liebt offensichtlich Wasser…so haben wir uns das gewünscht. Wir müssen noch viel lernen und hoffen, dass uns diese Reise Gelegenheit dazu gibt.
      Nun sind wir bei Langres an einem Stausee, stehen frei und alleine. Es ist mit ca. 25 Grad recht warm und sonnig. Beste Sicht auf den See mit wolkenlosem Abendhimmel. Die Sonne ist soeben hinter die Bäume versunken… Wir sitzen nun im Odin und lassen den ersten Tag ausklingen…
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    • Dag 29

      Langres 17 miles

      10 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Incredible feeling to wake up to normality. Yesterday morning was such a dark time. I thought the Via dream was over. I had no idea how I was going to get home. Had no idea what had happened or how long it was going to continue. Maybe for ever?

      Such a relief it cleared up when it did. And able to get checked out and a lift to the next place was magic. Can happily wave two fingers to those crying cheat. After all, if an ancient pilgrim had pulled a sickie he would just have been put on a donkey for the day. So there. Let’s hear no more about it thank you very much.

      Once I had got over the excitement of being able to get out of bed this morning I was looking forward to breakfast. There being a large chicken run I felt sure there would be a couple of fresh boiled eggs for breakfast. Planned a cute photo of two opened soft eggs, yolk running down nicely, especially for the Buc, him being such a fan of such things. No such luck. The French breakfast really is quite limited. Bread and jam or honey if you are lucky.

      It was great to get back in the groove with the walking. Blue sky most of the day. Nothing much to report there.

      When you are flicking through the usual boring photos of paths disappearing into the distance take a second look at the one with a road going off slightly right and a track going straight on because this caught me out. The map showed my route as continuing on the road, ignoring the track. Which is what I did. Checked in about another half mile and I was way out. Had to walk back to the junction and take the track. About the first time the map has been downright wrong. Not a very happy bunny.

      Was surprisingly tired when I reached Langres although that was partly because it is one of these old stuck on top of a hill, with ramparts all round, villages. Very picturesque to be sure but a steep uphill slog isn’t appreciated at the end of the day.

      Staying in an AirBnB place. No idea what the British ones are like but this one is a straightforward 2 bedroom apartment with one bathroom. I am in one bedroom and another couple is in the other and we share the bathroom, kitchen and living room. Just seems odd to me. I just hope they make allowances for pilgrims who like to sleep from 10 to 8 and take occasional trip to the bathroom in between. Funnily enough there was no room in the rucksack for a nice pair of winceyette pyjamas so I hope they are broad minded.

      Found a creperie for dinner. I am thinking it might be my favourite type of restaurant here. They seem to open early. One pancake is about all I can manage anyway and they are pretty cheap. Tonight’s offering was a fancy crepe with the usual litre of sparkling water. Job done for 15€.
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    • Dag 22

      Neufchâteau - Bannes (Langres)

      2 juni, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      One of the bigger days and had more climbing which is good training for the days ahead. Lovely narrow lanes initially and, as we approached the Langres area, more exposed roads higher up.

      The tick-remover finally got a bit of use as Caroline found she had a hanger-on.

      Staying on a farm campsite which seems to bd a popular stopover for caravans and motor homes heading south.
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    • Dag 23

      Bannes (Langres) - Rest Day

      3 juni, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Resting, organising, planning, stretching, strolling, fettling, reading…

      Still quite cool grey weather, but dry at the moment. Météo France announces this Spring as the 4th wettest since 1959.

      1423k
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    • Dag 18

      Schietwetter schafft Strecke

      13 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Heute sind wir wegen einem großen Regengebiet weiter Richtung Sète. Da wir mal einen neuen Camping-/Stellplatz suchen wollten ist der Traveller ziemlich lustig anzusehen 😂
      Aber die Plätze gefielen uns nicht oder es war ihnen die Lizenz für Womo etc. entzogen worden. Also sind wir auf den sehr überfüllten Stellplatz nahe dem Ort gelandet (Name siehe Foto). Aber gut für eine Nacht… Sonne war dann mal weg…. Aber schön war es, als mich plötzlich ein Freund ansprach, den ich in Portugal kennenlernte und wir uns über die Monate seitdem austauschen konnten 🌺Läs mer

    • Dag 28

      Leffonds 0 miles

      9 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Not a good day.

      At all.

      Woke this morning, opened my eyes and turned my head. The room appeared to move from side to side and back, continuously. Very dizzy. Felt very squeamish. Managed to stand and make the 2 steps to the basin for some retching. Made it back to bed. Repeated every now and again. After what seemed like ages the room stopped moving as long as I kept my head perfectly still. This continued for 3 or 4 hours. Walking completely out of the question.

      Eventually seemed to get better. Left me quite light-headed and weak.
      Was able to get a doctor’s appointment who thought it was an inner ear or cervical spine issue. She didn’t seem too concerned. Gave me some medicine to take if it happens again. As well as taking me to the doctors my hostess gave me a lift to my next accommodation. I think she was quite keen to pass me on and free up my room. She did charge for the lift which is not unreasonable. I was a bit of an inconvenience all day.

      I am now in a cute wee caravan in a corner of a massive garden. Also in the garden are a couple of horses and loads of chickens. I was very controlled over a 4 course pilgrim’s dinner as still quite delicate. Hoping that a long sleep will make everything fine for tomorrow’s walk.

      On the plus side I think my feet quite enjoyed a day in bed.
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    • Dag 4

      Nogent ÜP mit Weihnachtsmarkt 🍷🍷

      17 december 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Die Strecke bis hierher führte über kleine Dörfer. Wir schlengelten uns durch die Gassen. In vielen Dörfern standen die Ortsschilder Kopf...🧐 warum nur?
      Begründung:
      Ortseingangsschilder auf den Kopf gestellt: Die Bewegung erreicht die Landschaft der Normandie. Junglandwirte prangern die widersprüchlichen Auflagen an, die ihnen bei ihrer Tätigkeit auferlegt werden.
      Okay, nun sind wir schlauer.
      Wir erreichen Nogent. Guter Stellplatz.
      Im Ort ist ein schöner Weihnachtsmarkt. Wir genießen einen leckeren 😋 Glühwein und schauen dem Treiben zu. Nach nem Ortskontrollgang geht es wieder ins Womo...aufwärmen, essen kochen...Abend, Ende, aus...
      Nee, es gibt noch ein Feuerwerk 🎆 🤣🤣
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    • Dag 27

      Orges 21 miles

      8 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      At 21 miles this was always going to be a fairly tough day but the terrain started to be distinctly hillier than the almost completely flat ground that I have been on before. On the plus side blisters seem to be a thing of the past and the weather is now more like the dry and sunny that I was expecting. Not hot yet, just a nice walking temperature.

      Came upon a bar during the day and celebrated with a juice and a Magnum and a wee seat with my shoes off. I know how to live. Apart from that it was a non-stop 8 hour shift. Mostly in woods. Not unpleasant despite the length. Feet and back both grumbling a little at the end but nothing that wasn’t repaired by a shower and a half hour lie down.

      During the afternoon I had a phone call from tonight’s chambre d’hote to ask if I was looking for an evening meal. Too right I was. Just finished it and very good it was too. The only slight issue was there was another pilgrim as well. 2 hours spent discussing Brexit with a Dutch guy taxed my social skills more than a little as well as being about 2 hours more Brexit discussion than I have ever had before or want to have again. Worryingly it looks like we are doing about the same distances each day so we may well meet again. But not tomorrow as he has arranged a 7am breakfast while I am going for my usual 8.30am. And we are in different places tomorrow night.
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    Du kanske också känner till platsen med följande namn:

    Département de la Haute-Marne, Departement de la Haute-Marne, Haute-Marne, Alto Marne, Alta Marna

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