France
Haute-Marne

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    • Day 2

      Wir ziehen es durch,

      April 18 in France ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      und fahren mit kurzer Unterbrechung bis Autun. In Langres begeben wir uns auf die Suche nach einem Restaurant und stellen fest, dass diese entweder erst später am Abend, am Wochenende oder gar nicht mehr aufmachen. Also begnügen wir uns mit einem Döner und sind ganz happy über unsere Wahl.Read more

    • Day 1

      20. September, Am Stausee bei Langres

      September 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Die ersten ca. 470 km führten uns heute über Belgien, Luxemburg (Diesel für 1,69€ getankt) tief nach Frankreich 🇫🇷 hinein.
      Das ist die erste Reise mit unserem neuen Kopiloten „Dana“.
      Dana, ein Labrador-Redriever-Mischling ist seit dem 4. August bei uns. Und sie liebt offensichtlich Wasser…so haben wir uns das gewünscht. Wir müssen noch viel lernen und hoffen, dass uns diese Reise Gelegenheit dazu gibt.
      Nun sind wir bei Langres an einem Stausee, stehen frei und alleine. Es ist mit ca. 25 Grad recht warm und sonnig. Beste Sicht auf den See mit wolkenlosem Abendhimmel. Die Sonne ist soeben hinter die Bäume versunken… Wir sitzen nun im Odin und lassen den ersten Tag ausklingen…
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    • Day 29

      Langres 17 miles

      August 10, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Incredible feeling to wake up to normality. Yesterday morning was such a dark time. I thought the Via dream was over. I had no idea how I was going to get home. Had no idea what had happened or how long it was going to continue. Maybe for ever?

      Such a relief it cleared up when it did. And able to get checked out and a lift to the next place was magic. Can happily wave two fingers to those crying cheat. After all, if an ancient pilgrim had pulled a sickie he would just have been put on a donkey for the day. So there. Let’s hear no more about it thank you very much.

      Once I had got over the excitement of being able to get out of bed this morning I was looking forward to breakfast. There being a large chicken run I felt sure there would be a couple of fresh boiled eggs for breakfast. Planned a cute photo of two opened soft eggs, yolk running down nicely, especially for the Buc, him being such a fan of such things. No such luck. The French breakfast really is quite limited. Bread and jam or honey if you are lucky.

      It was great to get back in the groove with the walking. Blue sky most of the day. Nothing much to report there.

      When you are flicking through the usual boring photos of paths disappearing into the distance take a second look at the one with a road going off slightly right and a track going straight on because this caught me out. The map showed my route as continuing on the road, ignoring the track. Which is what I did. Checked in about another half mile and I was way out. Had to walk back to the junction and take the track. About the first time the map has been downright wrong. Not a very happy bunny.

      Was surprisingly tired when I reached Langres although that was partly because it is one of these old stuck on top of a hill, with ramparts all round, villages. Very picturesque to be sure but a steep uphill slog isn’t appreciated at the end of the day.

      Staying in an AirBnB place. No idea what the British ones are like but this one is a straightforward 2 bedroom apartment with one bathroom. I am in one bedroom and another couple is in the other and we share the bathroom, kitchen and living room. Just seems odd to me. I just hope they make allowances for pilgrims who like to sleep from 10 to 8 and take occasional trip to the bathroom in between. Funnily enough there was no room in the rucksack for a nice pair of winceyette pyjamas so I hope they are broad minded.

      Found a creperie for dinner. I am thinking it might be my favourite type of restaurant here. They seem to open early. One pancake is about all I can manage anyway and they are pretty cheap. Tonight’s offering was a fancy crepe with the usual litre of sparkling water. Job done for 15€.
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    • Day 28

      Leffonds 0 miles

      August 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Not a good day.

      At all.

      Woke this morning, opened my eyes and turned my head. The room appeared to move from side to side and back, continuously. Very dizzy. Felt very squeamish. Managed to stand and make the 2 steps to the basin for some retching. Made it back to bed. Repeated every now and again. After what seemed like ages the room stopped moving as long as I kept my head perfectly still. This continued for 3 or 4 hours. Walking completely out of the question.

      Eventually seemed to get better. Left me quite light-headed and weak.
      Was able to get a doctor’s appointment who thought it was an inner ear or cervical spine issue. She didn’t seem too concerned. Gave me some medicine to take if it happens again. As well as taking me to the doctors my hostess gave me a lift to my next accommodation. I think she was quite keen to pass me on and free up my room. She did charge for the lift which is not unreasonable. I was a bit of an inconvenience all day.

      I am now in a cute wee caravan in a corner of a massive garden. Also in the garden are a couple of horses and loads of chickens. I was very controlled over a 4 course pilgrim’s dinner as still quite delicate. Hoping that a long sleep will make everything fine for tomorrow’s walk.

      On the plus side I think my feet quite enjoyed a day in bed.
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    • Day 4

      Nogent ÜP mit Weihnachtsmarkt 🍷🍷

      December 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Die Strecke bis hierher führte über kleine Dörfer. Wir schlengelten uns durch die Gassen. In vielen Dörfern standen die Ortsschilder Kopf...🧐 warum nur?
      Begründung:
      Ortseingangsschilder auf den Kopf gestellt: Die Bewegung erreicht die Landschaft der Normandie. Junglandwirte prangern die widersprüchlichen Auflagen an, die ihnen bei ihrer Tätigkeit auferlegt werden.
      Okay, nun sind wir schlauer.
      Wir erreichen Nogent. Guter Stellplatz.
      Im Ort ist ein schöner Weihnachtsmarkt. Wir genießen einen leckeren 😋 Glühwein und schauen dem Treiben zu. Nach nem Ortskontrollgang geht es wieder ins Womo...aufwärmen, essen kochen...Abend, Ende, aus...
      Nee, es gibt noch ein Feuerwerk 🎆 🤣🤣
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    • Day 27

      Orges 21 miles

      August 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      At 21 miles this was always going to be a fairly tough day but the terrain started to be distinctly hillier than the almost completely flat ground that I have been on before. On the plus side blisters seem to be a thing of the past and the weather is now more like the dry and sunny that I was expecting. Not hot yet, just a nice walking temperature.

      Came upon a bar during the day and celebrated with a juice and a Magnum and a wee seat with my shoes off. I know how to live. Apart from that it was a non-stop 8 hour shift. Mostly in woods. Not unpleasant despite the length. Feet and back both grumbling a little at the end but nothing that wasn’t repaired by a shower and a half hour lie down.

      During the afternoon I had a phone call from tonight’s chambre d’hote to ask if I was looking for an evening meal. Too right I was. Just finished it and very good it was too. The only slight issue was there was another pilgrim as well. 2 hours spent discussing Brexit with a Dutch guy taxed my social skills more than a little as well as being about 2 hours more Brexit discussion than I have ever had before or want to have again. Worryingly it looks like we are doing about the same distances each day so we may well meet again. But not tomorrow as he has arranged a 7am breakfast while I am going for my usual 8.30am. And we are in different places tomorrow night.
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    • Day 79

      Aire Camping-Car Park Contrexeville

      March 23 in France ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

      Temperaturschock am Morgen, nur 7 Grad 🥶.
      Die kalte Luft aus dem Norden ist wohl auch hier angekommen. Zunächst ging es noch bei blauem Himmel weiter, aber immer mit Wind als ständiger Begleiter. Man wurde mal mehr und mal weniger durchgeschüttelt. Vorbei an Clermont Ferrand in Richtung Dijon ging es wieder hügelig weiter bei saftig grüner und blühender Frühlingslandschaft. Je weiter wir nach Norden kamen, wurden auch die Wolken immer mehr. Die Temperatur ging auf maximal 11 Grad, meistens jedoch nur einstellig 🙈.
      Nach ca. 550 km haben wir den Stellplatz in Contrexeville erreicht. Zum Abendessen gab es selbst gemachte Pizza 🍕 .
      Morgen geht es dann auf die letzte Etappe nach Hause 🏠.
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    • Day 26

      Bar-sur-Aube 14 miles

      August 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      What is it with kids and trampolines? Do they never want to stop? I have had a go. It’s OK but a couple of minutes, tops, and I’ve had enough. For some reason they put the glamping tents beside the kids play park in this campsite. Oh yes, there was a hedge in between but there isn’t a lot of sound-proofing in a hedge. So there I was, lying in my tent which was beside the glamping tent, just building up a fine head of steam as blasted kids kept bouncing up and down on this massive trampoline just outside. Finally the damn great church clock near the campsite struck 10pm and silence reigned. But I had lost an hour of much needed beauty sleep.

      Now there is a strange thing about my tiny blow-up mattress. In the early days I found it almost impossible to sleep on. But last night I had little trouble. I don’t think I am that much smaller. It could be that I am getting used to a different place every night. I have now slept in 26 different places so I think I am just getting less fussy about where my head goes down.

      No possibility of breakfast this morning in the campsite or as I left town. Did come across a boulangerie later in the morning but it was a Monday wasn’t it.

      All roads today as I am going off route to save a day. The official route meanders a bit. No need.

      As I was walking along thinking I was miles from anywhere I heard a lot of squealing. Damn great tower sticking up out of the trees. Appears that there is an Alton Towers type of place very close by.

      Early arrival at tonight’s hotel so I dropped the bag and headed into town to see if I could catch a restaurant before they closed after lunch. No such luck but I did get a patisserie for quiche and cake. Bit cheaper. Caught up with domestic duties in the afternoon. Washing, charging phone, some advance booking etc. Tried out a Vietnamese carry out for tea. Not a great success. Made a change though.

      The one drawback with hotels is they often have TVs and there are few things more annoying than hearing your fellow guest’s TV blaring out through the paper thin walls. And unlikely to have a 10pm curfew. I do think I am becoming Victor Meldrew sometimes.
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    • Day 1–2

      Goncourt Stellplatz

      December 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Südlich von Luxemburg und hinter dem Großraum Metz fuhren wir über Straßen, die wir schon von unserer letzten Reise kannten. Eine breite gut ausgebaute Bundesstraße schneidet sich dort zwischen Alleebäumen durch das Ackerland, dass bis fast bis Nancy reicht. Die Fahrt über die Umgehungsstraße der Stadt war unproblematisch und wir erreichten gegen 17:00 Uhr unser Quartier für die Nacht. Bereits im letzten Jahr standen wir in Goncourt direkt am kleine Fluss Meuse.Read more

    • Day 37

      Joinville

      May 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Wie angekündigt, sende ich Euch noch einige Eindrücke von Joinville und meinem Weg bis dorthin. Hier hat es mir sehr gut gefallen! Die Stadt war wohl mal ein bedeutender Wallfahrtsort, immerhin lagert hier der angebliche Gürtel des Lebensgefährten der Mutter Jesu Christi.
      Mein weiterer Weg wird mich unter anderem nach Clairvaux führen, dem Heimatdorf des Gründers des Zisterzienserordens, Bernhard. Das sind jene grau-schwarzen Mönche, die tatsächlich so minimalistisch lebten, wie es die Benediktiner immer vor hatten, und dabei paradoxerweise zur größten Wirtschaftsmacht Europas wurden. Vielleicht wird mir die Landschaft etwas darüber erzählen, was damals in diesen extremen Charakteren vorging.
      Am nächsten Dorfladen werde ich in ca. 100 km vorbeikommen; die nächste größere Stadt, Tonnerre, ist ungefähr 140 km entfernt. Von unterwegs werde ich mich aber bestimmt nochmal melden und berichten, wie es so läuft.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Département de la Haute-Marne, Departement de la Haute-Marne, Haute-Marne, Alto Marne, Alta Marna

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