• Napoleon Hernandez
  • Nadia Karina Warren-Uribe
  • Karina Uribe
  • Oliver Napoleon Warren
July 2023

Spain 2023

A 19-day adventure by Napoleon, Nadia Karina, Karina & Oliver Napoleon Read more
  • Trip start
    July 4, 2023
    Just a little something for the road!
    Family pic! 📷A gazelle has been spotted

    Leaving our home

    July 4, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    We have been preparing for the entire week to get everything ready for the trip. We purchased new clothes, got online tickets, got new suitcases and even learned about which are the best mobile companies in Spain!

    We are super excited and completely ready to go!
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  • On the way to Portilligat

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Our flight was delayed 5 hours, but in the end, we made it to Barcelona just after lunch! We were full of energy and ready to start our trip. We got a rental car and started to head to Girona to visit Dali's house. Karina has always been a Dali fan, and she will be able to see two of his exhibitions in the next 2 days.

    The road was gorgeous, and the roads were very well maintained. The scenery reminds us of Queretaro, except that instead of corn, we see wheat fields.
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  • Salvador Dali House Museum

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We finally got to Dali's house! It's in a very secluded corner of Portilligat, next to the beach. It used to be a fisherman's house. After some improvements and additions, the house ended up with very interesting and beautiful spaces in the gardens and inside.

    The town is small and beautiful, and we got a perfect sun to take pictures. We visited the gardens first and then entered the museum. The museum is kept the same as when Dali used to live there. Inside, there were AR features where QR codes would lead to quotes by Dali that go with the pictures.

    It was a really great way to start our trip!
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  • First dinner in Spain

    July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We were starving after the visit to Portilligat, so we drove back to Figueres and looked for a place to have dinner. We found this traditional tapas bar on the edge of Figueres and ordered tapas, fried fish, and an extremely refreshing sangria.

    Bon apetit!
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  • Dalí Theatre and Museum

    July 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We woke up early today to get breakfast on a small coffee shop close to the museum which was next to our apartment. Coffee is not a luxury but a basic human need when doing road trips!

    We then arrived at the museum and got a guided tour. Everyone got a newfound appreciation for Dali, which led to a viral trend for the four of us to play with our mustache! 😅😜

    The museum was designed and laid out by Dali himself. His remains are in a crypt on the museum, as he wanted to enjoy the steps of the visitors. The main hall of the museum is based on the seating area of an old theatre that burned down, and where a young Dali showcased his paintings at 14.

    The visit to Portilligat helped all of us to understand his work better. Karina was especially moved as she had been a lifelong fan of Dali, and she enjoyed seeing his works firsthand. There are really unique pieces and spaces in the museum, such as the fly-eye dome, the treasure room, a living room on the head of Mae West, Galatea of the spheres and several pieces of jewelry that he designed himself.

    We ended the tour taking drinks (some PG-13 and some R rated) before leaving towards our next stop: Castell de Sant Ferran.
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  • Castell de Sant Ferran

    July 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Before leaving Figueres, we went to do a short visit to Castell de Sant Ferran, which is a large bastion fortress built in the 18th century and the largest fortress in modern times. Interestingly enough, a part of it's still in use by the Spanish military as residences.

    We did the self guided tour, which allowed us to see the ruins at leisure. The place was huge, and Nadia did an awesome job capturing some amazing pictures of the space. Once we were done, we left and headed out southwest towards one of the most magical places in Catalonya: Montserrat. ✨️
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  • Montserrat

    July 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Montserrat is truly a magical place 😊. Located on a very steep mountain that gives its name to the entire region, it houses an imposing abbey on its top. We arrived a bit later than expected and couldn't visit the cave or the monastery, but we got to do the Funicular, which goes from the base of the mountain to a few meters below the abbey.

    The scenery is breathtaking. It can hardly be compared with other places. Napoleon was extremely moved as he took in the place as we went up the mountain. But the best was yet to come as we got to squeeze a visit to the abbey last minute before they closed.
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  • Montserrat Abbey

    July 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    The last step of the day was the abbey on top of Montserrat. The building is impressive, and the church is truly an impressive sight. When we came into the abbey, there was a mass service where a choir of monks sang during the service. We stayed for almost 30 minutes, and it was amazing to experience the music and the church. It felt like we were transported to a different realm. There is a rule (and an enforcer inside the church) against taking pictures or videos during service, so we limited ourselves to taking pictures of the spaces outside the abbey and the plaza leading to it.

    To top off the night, we drove to Monistrol at the base of the mountain to get a tapas dinner and head to our first-floor apartment in town to have a well-deserved rest after a very active day.
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  • Barcelona Cathedral

    July 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We left Monistrol in the morning and headed to Barcelona. We were able to get the apartment a bit early, and after returning our rental, we took the subway towards the Gothic Quarter.

    Our first stop in Barcelona was the Cathedral, considered one of the most beautiful from medieval Europe. It has the remains of Saint Eulalia and consists of a main body with many small chapels around it that were created by the different artisan associations of Barcelona that competed to have the most beautiful and adorned one.

    The catedral has an atrium with geese and a fountain, and where several famous Spaniards are entombed. Without doubt, the best part of the tour was to go up to the cathedral terrace to see the Gothic Quarter from a high point.
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  • Santa Maria de Pi

    Gothic Quarter

    July 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We enjoyed a stride through the corners, corridors, and alleyways of the Gothic Quarter after leaving the cathedral. It reminded us walking through Queretaro, but it was different as the building's walls were very high and the streets were very narrow. Walking through the Gothic Quarter, it is easy to imagine people of medieval times walking on the same streets and the stores bustling with commerce just with a different kind of wares.

    The place we liked the most was the Basílica of Santa Maria del Pi. There is a very cozy plaza just outside of it where we found an Ecuatorian artist singing mexican songs in a heartfelt way. To top the day, we end up going to a very good tapas place near the basílica and headed home.
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  • Casa Batlló

    July 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Casa Batlló is one of the most interesting, beautiful, and creative places of the trip so far. It was a great way to start our Gaudi's day. The exhibition was a mix of 2 digital experiences and an audioguide with AR complement using a tablet. The guide helped us understand the story and design elements of the house in a playful way (e.g., pointing the tablet to a window in the main hall would show a turtle to highlight the inspiration behind it). The tablet also allowed us to visualize how the different rooms looked like when the house was originally built and inhabited by the Batlló family and few residents.

    Each room was unique, and we could also experience some of the furniture designed by Gaudi for the house. Is a playful and gorgeous piece of architecture inspired by the sea, salamanders, rain, plants, and many other natural elements. It is a really unique experience, and there may be nothing else like it in the world.

    We got some orange juice and a coffee on the top of the building, and then we finished our tour and headed out to see other modernist buildings on the same block. Finally, we took a bus to Park Guell, where Gaudi created a unique public space while exploring how to alter known shapes and structures (like aqueducts and gardens) in unique ways.
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  • Park Güell

    July 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Park Guell is a public garden with unique architectonic elements designed by Gaudí. As many other of Gaudi's buildings, the park was sponsored by Eusebi Güell. We traveled via bus as the day was really hot and we ended up spending a good amount of time on Casa Batlló. We "only" had to walk about 9 blocks, but they were on a hill, and at a time that was unbearable hot. We had to stop midway to hydrate and take a breath.

    The park didn't disappoint. The park displays Gaudi's naturalistic period where he perfected his personal style, combining natural forms in novel geometric arrangement. The architectonic elements mix with the natural geography of the hill and get integrated without any right angles but curve out undulated designs.

    After visiting several of the park spaces, we left and visited a nearby exposition called the Gaudí experience. It consisted of a 4d movie that showcased the entire work of Gaudí while exploring some of its inspiration. The ride started with a Gaudí alligator superimposed to an image of the audience, and Oliver really believed at the beginning that there was an alligator moving around! His reaction was adorable.
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  • La Sagrada Familia

    July 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Our visit to the Sagrada Familia was an amazing way to finish our exploration of Gaudi's Barcelona. It is a one in a kind place and is breathtaking to get into its interior for the first time. We had 1 hour guided visit followed by an elevator to the Passion facade tower.

    It is really hard to find words to describe the experience. The sheer size of the cathedral, its unique design, and the interior illumination are unique around the world. The building is the largest of Gaudi's projects and one that is still evolving.

    The main building has two out of three facades finalized, the ones corresponding to the nativity (the sacred family) and the one of Christ's passion. When the building is finalized, it will have 18 towers and 3 facades.

    Everyone was in awe of the interior illumination. Gaudi was a genius as it came to lighting using natural sources. The colors, brightness, and overall experience of the basílica are impossible to capture in photos. There is a lateral side of the basílica that illuminates in rainbow colors that look even better in camera than in person.

    We loved to see the parts of Barcelona that were influenced by Gaudí, and we are happy we could have the opportunity to experience it. Casa Batlló and Sagrada Familia are by far gems within the trip. We were happy and satisfied, and after crashing for a while in our apartment, we had dinner, and then the adults went out to experience a bit of Barcelona night, famous for being lively and fun.
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  • Tibidabo Attraction Park

    July 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today, we are taking a break from being tourists and came to Tibidabo, a small, local attraction park that happens to be the oldest operating park of its kind in Spain.

    We came up through a funicular at the base of the mountain, a short 4 minute ride. Coming out, one gets access to the panoramic area where one can take rides to see Barcelona from above. There is a basilica on the side of the park that offers what are probably the best views of the city.

    We had a blast going through the park. Oliver enjoyed the jumping star the most. It's a small elevator ride for kids. He must have been on it at least 15 times! Nadia and dad's favorite was the rollercoaster and the miner's ride, a small log ride in a water attraction. Karina and Nadia got into Krügers house, a scare house attraction, and they said it was a blast.

    We finished the day getting a dinner in La Pepita, one of the best tapas restaurants in Barcelona. We then headed home and prepared to take our flight early in the morning towards the north. We are recharged and relaxed from the day and ready to get going in the north!
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  • San Sebastián

    July 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Early in the morning, we took a flight to Bilbao and took a car to start the second leg of our tour, through the North of Spain, as well as La Rioja, driving all the way to Madrid.

    As a first stop, we took our breakfast in Donostia San Sebastian, one of the most expensive and exclusive destinations in Spain. The town is really beautiful, facing a light blue sea and a small island. We took our breakfast on La Perla, which was a recommendation we received in Barcelona. We walked through the shore a bit and then headed to our real destination of the day: Pamplona!Read more

  • San Fermines in Pamplona

    July 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Pamplona during the San Fermin festival is likely one of the hardest things to describe. It is a whole town that holds a week-long party and with everyone dressing in the same way. And more interestingly the festival is full of activities for families and kids to do, and we had our fair share of them to try!

    We stayed very close to the historic center where the action occurs every year. It was a short 10-minute walk that felt longer because we were at a not so pleasant 35 °C temperature. After getting our traditional San Fermin clothing, we headed to Plaza del Castillo to get a quick lunch, and from there, we walked around the city to experience the celebration.

    The best activity we did as a family was the fire bull, a "run of the bulls" for kids where a bull that has firecrackers goes up the Santo Domingo street behind small kids. Nadia didn't want to run, but in the end, she got in. Napoleon held Oliver in his arms, and as he was running through the street, Oliver kept yelling "faster, faster! It is catching up with us!".

    At night, we went together near the ruins of Pamplona Old Citadel and got to see a 20-minute firework show. It more than made up for the fact that we skipped the 4th of July show in NY. At points, it was like the fireworks were exploding just in front of us. By the time we went to bed, it was beyond midnight, and we set our alarms to watch the bulls the next day very early in the morning.
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  • Super puestas para el encierroLos chicos más guapos de la familia!Listos para el desayuno!Sonríe!Oliver y el cabezudo!

    Run of the bulls and Pamplona's

    July 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We were ready at 6:30 at the lobby of the Tres Reyes hotel where we met our host for a balcony on Estafeta Street. The reason we had to meet him so early is that the police close the streets around 7am, and whoever is outside of the area where the run occurs is not allowed inside afterward. The run is made every day at 8am during San Fermin, and the route follows from Santo Domingo to Estafeta and finally into the city bullfight ring. We were midway on Estafeta Street on the first floor and with a very good view of the runners.

    The host prepared coffee for us, and he also had small pastries and orange juice. We were all really excited about seeing the event live and we got into the balcony at 7:55 am. We heard the shot indicating that the first bull had left the pen at 8 sharp, and we were looking eagerly into the street to see the action.

    It is easy to tell when the bulls are coming as a sea of red and white starts moving down the street. We saw the bulls directly below our feet as they ran in Estafeta. The whole event lasted just 2 minutes; somehow, in TV, it feels longer.

    After the event, the host guided us to another hotel to get a full breakfast before taking a tour of the old city of Pamplona. We visited several historical spots, and the guide explained how San Fermin became a cultural phenomenon within the last century. We went into the San Fermin basilic, and finally, at the very end of the tour, we found the Giants and Big Heads (cabezones y gigantes) parade. Oliver had a blast with the Big Heads as they went through the crowd, hitting people with foam bulls. Nadia said that she had found her calling and wanted their job! 😝

    After the parade, we disengaged from the tour and picked up our bags to continue our trip further down into Navarra and La Rioja, the wine region of Spain.
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  • Navarra and La Rioja countryside

    July 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Navarra and La Rioja natural setting is extremely different from the one we saw in Catalunya and Basque Country. The fact that it was extremely hot didn't help at all. The land is mostly off yellow and red hues, a far cry from the green and blue colors we saw while traveling Catalunya.

    The official language in Navarra is Euskera and is further apart from Castilian than Catalan. This part of the country has industry related to farming, including wines and hams. We stopped in a couple of landmarks along the way and stopped at a town called Logroño. We had a fantastic local lunch at a tabern located just on the side of San Juan Street called La Quimera, where we tried a delicious tomato salad and mussel croquettes. We also tried Natural Sidra, and the only way to describe it is refreshing. This trip is really opening our eyes around me flavors, sometimes with sophisticated ingredients (like fois groa) and other times just mixing the familiar in novel ways, like the tomato salad.

    Since all of us were really tired from San Fermin, we skipped the visit to a local winery and headed directly to our stay in the heart of La Rioja.
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  • Monastery of Nuestra Señora de Valvanera

    July 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Finally, we have arrived at our stay tonight: the monastery of Valvanera. Located deep in La Rioja, the monastery is the only sign of civilization several kilometers around. This monastery has existed since the year 990. The sight is breathtaking and a huge contrast from San Fermin. We went from being in a party to having the space and time to decompress and having a welcoming rest. The silence was also appreciated when compared to the loud music and drums in Pamplona.

    We arrived around 5 and crashed... well, mostly the adults. The kids decided to get some "me time" with their electronics and decompress a bit. The only restaurant around in the area is one that is part of the monaster, and we had a traditional dinner. Napoleon tried lamb for the first time and actually liked it, while everyone agreed that the deserts were outstanding. The monastery is famous for its honey production, and it didn't disappoint. The honey is sweet and has a unique flavor that goes really well with yogurt or light creams.
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  • Suso Monastery

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had overall an easy 8th day in Spain and yet one that was memorable. Our only target in terms of sightseeing was visiting San Millan de la Colguera, one of the most ancient sites in all of Spain. San Millan is associated with two monasteries called Yuso and Suso, which comes from the Latin words for "low" and "high," respectively.

    Our GPS set the route to visit Suso first, and we ended up going up a very narrow road up a mountain. We ended up in a clearing within a forest and decided to continue afoot and avoid damage to the car.

    This hike ended up being one of the most memorable parts of our trip. We loved being able to spend time as a family!
    We were mostly alone up the hill and got in beautiful views of the countryside. We rushed a bit coming up because the GPS said we had 40 minutes before the monastery was closed. Once we got there we realized that we should have visited Yuso first and gotten into a bus to come up the trail. We found a tour guide just outside the monastery ruins, and she graciously agreed to let us join her last group, although we were supposed to get a ticket in the lower monastery.

    What followed was a fascinating explanation about the history of the monastery. It was built very early on, and it started with a hermit who was known for his ability to heal people, taking over a cave on the hill as living quarters. The monastery was built around the cave and exhibited different styles of architecture as the building expanded and was occupied by different groups. We saw a set of 6 arches that showed the change from romanic to moorish inspired motifs on the same structure. It is impressive to think of people traveling through this land long before the invention of modern technology and occupying these spaces. In a rather comical note, the building also has bricks full of dogs' pawprints, which were the result of people preparing the building materials on site with dogs running around.

    After the visit, we headed back to our car, this time more leisurely. However, Oliver was walking close to a fence when he accidentally fell down a small creek. He didn't hurt himself but got really scared, and we carried him halfway before he said he wanted to be brave and strong and keep walking by himself. Once we got to the car, we headed down the hill into San Millan.
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  • San Millan de la Cogolla

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We were starving by the time we came down from Suso and found a little tavern in town, very close to Yuso. We had lunch within its beautiful garden and got a bit of a second wind. The monastery was unfortunately closed at the time we were leaving, and we could only take pictures from the facade. What is interesting of this monastery is that it held the earliest manuscript in primitive Castilian, making this area the place where modern Spanish was born as a language.

    We decided to not wait until the monastery was open in the afternoon and headed right into our next destination as we were hoping to have Oliver and Nadia interact with farm animals in the rural house we were staying in next.
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  • Casa Rural Areitz-Soroa

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We drove about an hour and a half before we reached the place where we decided to stay, a cute rural house outside Bilbao. The road close to the rural house was very narrow, and we drove on top of a very small get sturdy Roman Bridge built in the year 300 at the expense of Karina's nerves while driving. (Everyone here loves roman bridges! They are more trustworthy than modern ones).

    The house is run by Ion and Sonia, who have spent thirty years of their lives on the project of building a self-sustaining house. Apart from hosting people on the property, they hold education sessions for kids to teach them how to minimize their impact on the environment while doing some fun activities like having them cook their own bread and get apple juice. In our case, we got to enjoy the natural setting of the farm, and the kids got to see from a fist hand perspective cows, chickens, pigs, and rabbits in the midst of a light rain. Nadia was also very happy since we all got to pet a rabbit thanks to Sonia. 🐇


    Dinner was a bit difficult as we were tired and yet had to drive 20 minutes to the nearest town. Although they would not serve dinner during weekdays, the restaurant decided to graciously make dinner for us. We drank natural cider (and they explained to us that we weren't supposed to let it rest but drink it as it had air bubbles from serving it).

    The discovery of the day in terms of food was entrecot, which is a very tender and juicy beef cut taken from between the 7th and 8th rib. We really liked it and hope to be able to tell our butcher to cut it for us once we get back to New York!
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  • Parque Natural del Carbaceno

    July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The Carbaceno Natural Park is a unique concept that we had never seen before. The park is a combination of a natural reserve and a zoo, but not in the traditional sense. In this park, the animals have very large expanses of land where they can walk around, with some spaces being as large as 1 kilometer squared. The park was built on top of an old mine and is also an example of how some human-made structures can be recycled to give a bit back in terms of natural spaces.

    The park has some unique species, including some animals close to extinction, like White Rhinoceros. We saw a pack of deers moving around as elephants were walking nearby and a very cute pack of brown bears. The park has a funicular system that we used to visit several areas and get amazing views of the animals from high up.

    We also saw several venomous snakes that the park has from around the world, including royal cobras, green and black mambas, and spitting snakes.

    To top it all, the park has a show involving hunting birds. The show lasts an hour and showcases different birds around the world. The trainers would leave the birds free, and they would set up baits to show how falcons kill on the wild. It was an amazing show as some of the birds would fly just a meter or two in front of us, with one of them even brushing Napoleon's head, and we got to see firsthand how amazing these creatures are.
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  • Covadonga

    July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The next stop for us was Covadonga, a town with a registered population of 58 right into the mountain area called Picos de Europa. The town is home to the famous Covadonga Virgin, which according to historical record help Visigoths to push back Arabs from the area in 722 under the leadership of Pelayo, who prayed to the image of the Virgin held within the cave system. The battle arguably initiated the creation of the modern Spanish state as it was the first battle where Christians were able to defeat Arabs.

    The town itself is beautiful, built right on the mountain with trails that follow a river that seeps through the rock and comes all the way down. The vegetation is made of forests, ferns, and moss and is very relaxing. Below the Virgin Sanctuary, there is a famous 7- armed fountain that, according to legend, will help whoever drinks water from its seven arms to find love within a year. With Karina and Napo set and Nadia not willing to take the water, we didn't get to try it out.

    The town is mostly made of hotels, restaurants, and rural houses that are built around the Covadonga Basílica. Walking its streets at night is magical, and it has a different experience from visiting the town during the day.

    From a culinary perspective, we found here two traditional foods from Asturias: fabada and cachopo. Fabada is a dish made with broad beans cooked with a bit of chorizo, morcilla, and a piece of pig skin. It is absolutely delicious and fulfilling. Cachopo, on the other hand, is a dish made from veal filets, where two of them are put together and filled with goat cheese and ham, and finally breaded and fried. The cachopo is not for the faint of the heart as a single order weighs almost 1.5 kilograms and can be shared with up to 6 people. This was the only time in Spain that we simply couldn't finish our food although we wanted to.

    Covadonga was also the first time where we had to get two different rooms, as the rural house where we stayed had only rooms for 2 people each. Since Nadia wanted to stay with Oliver, we allowed them to stay on the room upstairs, and we had to say they knew how to behave. We had one of the best nights of sleep in the town and took breakfast the next day from Bea, the house owner. From there, she let us know that unless we had property on the area of the lakes, we wouldn't be allowed to travel by car there, and our options were a cab service or a bus. Since the cab traveled further into the area and would drop us very close to the upper lake, we decided to take the cab service and spend the morning at Covadonga Lakes.
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  • Hopscotch professional.Nadia skipping bombs!! 💣Oliver asked why the cows 🐄 made lots of poonpoons!

    Lagos de Covadonga

    July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The Covadonga Lakes is a beautiful place located about 20 minutes driving from Covadonga. The lakes were created from glaciers that melted after the last ice age and created a beautiful, breathtaking scenery in the midst of the mountains.

    A good portion of the area around the lakes is owned by local farmers, and there are plenty of cows and bulls walking around the natural pasture. There are two lakes, and there is an elevated hill between the two that allows for a full sight.

    We were somewhat tired from the last few days and didn't want to overexert ourselves going around the trails. We mostly stayed close to the upper lake and to the elevated sightseeing place as we absorbed the views. We got a little snack on the only restaurant in the lakes before heading down, and we got one last fabada at the local restaurant as we were leaving Covadonga and continuing the trip.
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