• Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade
  • Happy Days Travel
  • Mark Wade

Overlanding Through Africa

This is the big one - the trip we have been planning since before the pandemic! We will be overlanding from South Africa 🇿🇦 to Kenya 🇰🇪 passing through 9 other countries and taking four months. En savoir plus
  • Kenyan entertainment

    8 juillet 2023, Namibie ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Following our visit, we returned to camp for lunch. Henry had prepared hake with pasta and salad. After eating, I managed to catch up with my notes and then went for a walk around this quirky campsite to take some pictures. The internet wasn’t working, so we repaired to the bar to edit some photos. While we were there another Intrepid truck arrived. They are doing our trip in reverse, so they have come from where we are going tomorrow. There are only eight of them on their truck. Two of them, a guy from Florida Keys and one from the UK, joined us in the bar. They had nothing good to say about their trip so far, complaining about the long driving days, the lack of wildlife sightings, and the noisy nights. I couldn’t stand listening to such negativity, so I left them to it and went to sit by the pool with some of the others.

    When dinner time came, Henry had prepared fried potatoes and salads, and Patrick had barbecued lamb leg steaks. It was extremely good. We spent time after dinner chatting around the fire. Our crew, along with two of the crew from the other truck, entertained us with a song and dance from Kenya.
    En savoir plus

  • Lunch at Rundu on the Angolan border

    9 juillet 2023, Namibie ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We had a slightly later start this morning with a 7.30am breakfast of fried tomatoes and eggs. Nevertheless, after yet another freezing cold night, I was up at 5.30am! At least the water in the showers was hot! The internet was working this morning, so we were able to do a few updates. We didn’t have nearly long enough, though! We were on the road by 8.30am for a long driving day to our next campsite, ready to cross the border into Botswana tomorrow.

    We had a bushy bushy stop before reaching the town of Rundu on the border with Angola, where we had a two-hour stop for lunch. We didn’t need that long, but the crew needed to shop, and we found a nice hotel garden to sit in. We had wifi, views of Angola, peacocks for company, and a toastie for lunch. It was a pleasant place to spend the time.

    As we drove further north in Namibia, the landscape was flat and dry. There were lots of small communities where extended families live within fenced compounds, similar to the ones we visited in the Gambia.
    En savoir plus

  • Arriving at Rainbow River Lodge

    9 juillet 2023, Namibie ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We arrived at Rainbow River Lodge, our campsite by the river in Bagani at around 4.30pm. We put our tents up and went to the bar to use the internet, but there were too many people trying to get on, so it was impossible. We had to talk to each other instead! 😂 It was a beautiful spot to sit by the river and watch the sun go down as we listened to hippos in the water. We didn’t see any, though.

    For dinner, Henry had done pork chops, pasta, and salad. Afterwards, we sat chatting around the fire until it was time to go to bed.
    En savoir plus

  • Entering Botswana

    10 juillet 2023, Namibie ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    We only had a 30-minute drive to the Botswana border this morning, so we didn’t have to leave until 8.30am. While we were packing down our tent, Liz shouted us over as there were otters in the river. Watching them playing was a lovely way to start the day. On a depressing note, my mattress had gone down overnight, so I had slept on the solid ground. I hope it’s just a one off!! Before leaving the campsite, we dropped off our laundry as we are staying here again on Wednesday.

    We drove through the Bwabwata National Park to get to the border. Bwabwata National Park is a protected area in northeastern Namibia that was established in 2007 and covers 6,274 square kilometres. It was created by merging Caprivi Game Park and Mahango Game Reserve. The area is an important migration route from Botswana to Angola for African elephant and some other game species. It is an unusual Protected Area as about 5,500 people live in the park. The Namibian government involves park residents and neighbours in planning and managing the park.

    There were hundreds of impala on or near the road as we drove through the park. We spotted a couple of zebra, too. We all had to fill in exit forms in Namibia and entry forms in Botswana, but the crossing was pretty quick. We are now in country number 57!!

    Botswana, officially the Republic of Botswana is a landlocked country. It is topographically flat, with approximately 70 percent of its territory being the Kalahari Desert. It is bordered by South Africa to the south and southeast, Namibia to the west and north, and Zimbabwe to the northeast. It is connected by the Kazungula Bridge to Zambia, across the world's shortest border between two countries.

    A country of slightly over 2.3 million people, Botswana is one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world. It is essentially the nation state of the Tswana, who make up 79% of the population. About 11.6% of the population lives in the capital and largest city, Gaborone. Botswana used to be one of the world's poorest countries. In the 1960s it had a GDP per capita of about US$70 per year. It has since transformed itself into an upper-middle-income country, with one of the world's fastest-growing economies, and a GDP per capita of around US$18,113 in 2021!

    Modern-day humans first inhabited the country over 200,000 years ago. The Tswana ethnic group were descended mainly from Bantu-speaking tribes who migrated south to modern Botswana around 600 AD, living in tribal enclaves as farmers and herders. In 1885, the British colonised the area and declared a protectorate under the name of Bechuanaland. As decolonisation occurred, Bechuanaland became an independent Commonwealth republic under its current name on 30 September 1966. Since then, it has been a representative republic, with a consistent record of uninterrupted democratic elections and the lowest perceived corruption ranking in Africa since at least 1998.

    The economy is dominated by mining, cattle, and tourism. Botswana is the world's biggest diamond producing country. Its relatively high gross national income per capita (by some estimates the fourth-largest in Africa) gives the country a relatively high standard of living.

    The scenery as we drove to our campsite was very similar to that in northern Namibia with the same style of round wooden huts with thatched roofs. The roads seemed in better condition, though, and we were struck by the number of bus stops there were – we hadn’t seen any in Namibia!
    En savoir plus

  • Sepupa Swamp Stop

    10 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We had about a two-hour drive to the attractively-named Swamp Stop, our campsite on the Okavango River. We weren’t staying there tonight. Instead, we had a couple of hours free time to sort out an overnight bag and use the internet before lunch. We also took the time to admire the river view and try to photograph the fast-moving vervet monkeys who were scampering around the site.

    After lunch, we helped to load a cargo boat with all of our tents, sleeping mats, food, and kitchen equipment. Laban and Henry set off to our island bush camp. Patrick stayed behind with the truck. We went in two boats with our local guides.

    The Okavango Delta is a vast inland delta. On 22 June 2014, it became the 1000th site to be officially inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the few interior delta systems that do not flow into a sea or ocean, with a wetland system that is largely intact. All the water reaching the delta is ultimately evaporated and transpired. Each year, about 11 cubic kilometres of water spreads over the 6,000–15,000 km2 area. Some flood waters drain into Lake Ngami. The delta was named as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, which were officially declared on 11 February 2013 in Arusha, Tanzania.
    En savoir plus

  • Our island camp in Okavango

    10 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The scenery with long grasses and reeds was stunning. It was very cold, however, and we were grateful for the fire the crew had already got going on the island when we arrived. They had already put our tents up, too, which was a bonus! We didn’t have long to familiarise ourselves with our new surroundings before we were back on the boats for a sunset cruise. There was just time for us to have a lesson in using the bush toilet – dig a hole and then cover what you do with soil. Termites will eat the toilet roll!! 😊

    We didn’t see any specific wildlife on the cruise, but it was a spectacular sunset!! Once the sun had gone, though, the temperature plummeted. We burned an entire tree on the campfire! Henry surpassed himself with dinner tonight. We had a delicious vegetable soup, which was very welcome, followed by chicken and rice. None of us moved very far from the fire during or after dinner as it was bitterly cold everywhere else on the island!!
    En savoir plus

  • Mokoro trip

    11 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    The situation with my mattress turned out not to be a one-off. There is a tear in the fabric side of it, which is irreparable! So, we will both be using sleeping mats for the rest of the trip!! Despite us both wearing all the clothes we had in our overnight bag, it was still an extremely cold night! The temperature went down to 2˚C!! I couldn’t get my hands warm this morning, no matter how hard I tried! Packing up the tent was a struggle! Southern Africa is experiencing its worst winter in over twenty years, with nighttime temperatures being particularly low. It was snowing in Cape Town yesterday, and this morning, we heard there was snow as far north as Johannesburg!

    We loaded everything back onto the cargo boat, and Laban and Henry set off back to Swamp Stop. We went with our local guides to join up with our mokoros and polers. It was a bit scary getting in them! We had a two-and-a-half hour boat trip through the delta in these canoe-like craft that carry two passengers and a guy who pushes it through the shallow waters using a long pole like a punt in Cambridge! I can’t say I found the experience all that comfortable! Despite the full sunshine, there was a stiff breeze, and the temperature remained low. We did see an elephant and some lovely birds. Halfway through, we disembarked the mokoros to have a nature walk on another island. The talk was very interesting, but most of us were too cold to appreciate the information we were being given!
    En savoir plus

  • Return to Swamp Stop

    11 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    When we returned to the island, we transferred to the boats that had brought us from Swamp Stop for the return journey. It was a long ride, and I got increasingly cold as the trip went on! We did see a family of hippos, a pair of fish eagles, and a magnificent four-metre long crocodile, though, so there were compensations! We were frozen by the time we got back to camp. I just didn’t appreciate how cold Southern Africa could be in winter, and I clearly haven’t brought enough of the right clothes! Thankfully, the crew had again put our tents up, and Henry had prepared us a tasty hot lunch of savoury mince and rice.

    After thawing out, we had a free afternoon. My plan was to catch up with my trip diary and to do some posts. I managed the first, but not the second – too many fellow passengers wanted to chat! I do enjoy the social side of these trips, but not at the expense of updating everything – especially when we have decent internet for a change!

    Dinner tonight was kudu meat with potatoes, vegetables, and salad. We had a roaring fire to sit around after eating. Thankfully, it wasn’t as cold as it has been for the past couple of nights!
    En savoir plus

  • A relaxing day!

    12 juillet 2023, Namibie ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We slept a bit better. Both of us were on sleeping mats, so it was easier. I was up very early seeing as we weren’t having breakfast until 8am, but I still wasn’t earlier enough to have first shower! I had to wait half an hour for one to be free! At breakfast, we wished Mona a happy 41st birthday with a rendition of Stevie Wonder’s song, a card, a cardboard crown, and a pink plastic goblet for her wine! 😂

    We were on the truck by 9am and heading back across the border to our campsite near Bagani for our last night in Namibia. The border crossing was straightforward, although we did have to have an extra health check and photo as we were entering Namibia from Botswana.

    Back at Rainbow River Lodge, we got our tent up quickly – on the same spot as the other night. Everybody else did the same. We are definitely creatures of habit! 😊 Henry prepared pasta and salads for lunch. My group was on cook duty, but I was relegated as my services were not required! After lunch, we went to the bar area with the intention of using the internet, but it wasn’t working. Instead, we ended up spending the afternoon chatting to our fellow travellers, including Mona, who started drinking early to celebrate her birthday. I had a few gin and bitter lemons as the sun went down, the first drinks I’ve had in since the wine tasting on day one of this trip.

    For dinner, Henry had prepared T-bone steak no less!! We followed this with birthday cake. Afterwards, we did go back to the bar, but we didn’t stay very long as we were tired and we have an early start tomorrow.
    En savoir plus

  • Back to Botswana!

    13 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We didn’t sleep particularly well. It was cold, and there were noisy hippos in the river a few feet from our tent! We had a long driving day ahead of us today to reach Chobe National Park about 9 hours away, so we didn’t linger long over breakfast. We packed up quickly and were on the road by 7.45am.

    The road out of Namibia to a different border crossing with Botswana was long and straight, with little other than dry bush to look at. We had a couple of bushy bushy stops and then stopped for a 90-minute lunch break in the last big town in Namibia, Katima Mulilo. It looked like a lively place with a market and plenty of shops. We just had time to have lunch (chicken wraps with chips) in a café with good internet and go to the supermarket to pick up snacks to top up our snack bag and a couple of bottles of red for Mark. While we were checking the internet, we read that newsreader and BBC stalwart Huw Edwards is in bother over paying for explicit photos! Why would someone with such a high profile risk everything for a few kicks??

    After lunch, we drove 40 minutes to the border with Botswana to cross over for the second time in as many days. We have thoroughly enjoyed our two weeks in Namibia. It is a vast country. There is still a lot to see here. Perhaps we’ll come back one day!

    At the border, we exited Namibia with no difficulties. As we entered Botswana, they didn’t need us to fill in any forms, so we assumed we would be granted entry very quickly. This turned out not to be the case. We each had to get every pair of shoes we had on the truck and put them through a trough of disinfectant! Nobody seemed sure why, but, of course, we complied without complaint.

    At the border, there were some enormous baobab trees which I managed to get some sneaky photos 📸 of through the truck 🚚 window 🪟 😀.

    Once we were across the border at Ngoma, we were driving through a forested area. Before long, we were seeing lots of wildlife including:

    • A huge herd of elephants
    • Lots of zebra
    • Several warthogs
    • Bandit mongoose
    • Kudu

    We were driving too fast to take photos, but it bodes well for tomorrow morning’s game drive!

    We arrived at our campsite, Thebe River Lodge, at about 5pm. We were pitched right next to the river behind an electric fence. It was a long, complicated walk from our area to the nearest facilities. We are here for two nights, so we decided to ask about an upgrade. We haven’t done it yet on this leg of the trip and, after several freezing cold nights, it seemed like a good idea. We got a large private double room with ensuite for £54 a night. It was so worth it! The first thing I did when we had brought our stuff from the truck was to have a lovely hot shower, the best one I’d had since leaving Cape Town!

    The wifi worked in our room, so we spent the time before dinner catching up on some posts. For dinner, Henry had cooked pork stir fry with rice. It was very good. After dinner, we went back to our room and listened to Jeremy Vine discussing the Huw Edwards case. He seems to be getting a lot of public sympathy, with most callers criticising The Sun for reporting the story when no criminal laws were broken.
    En savoir plus

  • Morning game drive

    14 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    We slept very well in our upgraded room! We were up very early this morning for our 5.45am start. We were going on a 4 x 4 game drive through Chobe National Park.

    Chobe National Park is Botswana's first national park, and also the most biologically diverse. It is Botswana's third largest park, and is noted for having a population of lions which prey on elephants, mostly calves or juveniles, but also subadults.

    We had two vehicles for our fame drive – ten of us in each. Despite staying in a room very close to reception, we were the last to get to the jeeps, so I ended up in the front seat and Mark was in the middle of the front row. We were disappointed because neither position was ideal. In the event, though, it didn’t matter as we saw so much and got so close to the animals that we were able to see, no matter where we were sitting. When we got back to camp later, it turned out that we had seen so much more than the other half of our group. We were definitely in the best vehicle!

    During the morning, we saw:

    • A solo adult male lion on the shore of the river – the light wasn’t the best as it was still very early, but I got a good video of it roaring.
    • Lots of impala
    • A tawny eagle
    • A group of elephants with their young
    • A greater kudu – the second largest antelope in Africa after the eland. The collective noun for kudu is ‘a twist’ because of their spiral-shaped horns.
    • A bachelor herd of young male impala
    • Thousands of guinea fowl
    • Some francolins – birds smaller than guinea fowl with red beaks
    • A solo adult male lion sitting in a bush
    • A dead crocodile – probably killed from the inside by fishing hooks
    • A jackal
    • A large bull elephant
    • Hundreds of impala
    • A mating pair of fish eagle
    • A pair of kori bustard – the national bird of Botswana
    • A magpie shrike – a black and white bird with a long tail
    • White-backed vultures
    • Red lechwe antelope
    • A pied kingfisher
    • Several yellow billed stork
    • Some white egrets
    • 2 juvenile male lions who had been chased out of the pride. They were probably around five years old.
    • 3 lionesses hunting antelope
    • A number of saddle billed stork
    • A grey heron
    • Several crocodiles
    • Two hammerkopf
    • A family of elephants
    • A fork-tailed drongo
    • Lots of giraffe
    • A pod of hippos on land
    • Three spoonbill
    • Some water buffalo
    • Egyptian geese
    • A glimpse of a leopard
    • A scorpion (the deadliest variety!)

    Our driver/guide was brilliant! His name was KB. He was so knowledgeable and seemed to instinctively know the best places to spot the animals. He took care to position the vehicle so that we could all get good photos and videos. It was a fantastic way to spend the morning!
    En savoir plus

  • Sunset cruise on the River Chobe

    14 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We got back to camp at around 10.45am. Henry prepared an early lunch for us – chicken burgers, salad, and sauteed potatoes. After lunch, I went to log on to try to sort out our visas for Malawi. I managed to do mine eventually, but struggled to upload Mark’s photo and the other documents they needed. In the end, I had to give up as it was time to go to the truck for the 10-minute drive to the jetty on the River Chobe where our sunset cruise was to set off from.

    We boarded our boat and spread ourselves out, thinking that we would be the only passengers. How wrong we were! Laban and Patrick left, promising to come and pick us up at 6pm. Then, another Intrepid truck arrived, and we were joined on our boat by a group of 20 loud and lairy passengers, some of whom will be joining our group in Victoria Falls, and some of whom five of our group will have to join! There were some particularly loud and sweary people behind us, who started drinking the second they got on. Mark and I, and Kim and Iona moved forward to get out of their way! There was some speculation as to which of them would be our new truck mates. We were beginning to think we had made a mistake by choosing to do this optional excursion. We had paid US$39 each, and spent the first 40 minutes going nowhere and putting up with lots of noise! However, the captain asked them to be quiet within the national park, and then we started seeing animals, so we were largely able to ignore the rabble rousers and enjoy the cruise.

    We saw:

    • A number of crocodiles, both large and small
    • One male and two female kudu
    • Some warthogs
    • A large number of elephants on the beach, including some small babies
    • A huge pod of hippos. They were on land as we approached them, and then went into the water
    • A fish eagle on its nest
    • An African jacaranda
    • Giraffes on the beach
    • A water monitor lizard
    • A bachelor herd of elephants who crossed the river in front of us – it was an incredible sight!
    • A pied kingfisher
    En savoir plus

  • More photos of our sunset cruise

    14 juillet 2023, Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We watched the sun set with elephants in the foreground. It was magical! We had had two amazing wildlife encounters in one day!

    Back at the jetty, we boarded our truck and said goodbye to Jenny and Greg, a couple from the UK who will be joining us on Sunday. We had got talking to them on the boat.

    In camp, Henry had made lamb leg steaks with pasta for dinner. Afterwards, I tried again to complete Mark’s Malawi visa application, but I got nowhere!
    En savoir plus

  • Crossing in to Zimbabwe

    15 juillet 2023, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This was the last full day of this leg of our trip. We were heading for Victoria Falls, where some of our group would go their separate ways. We packed our bag and went to breakfast for 6.30am. Laban wanted us to be on the road by 7.30am. We were only a 20-minute drive to the Zimbabwean border, but it is a notoriously slow process, so he wanted us to be there early. I’m glad we were, as it took us about two hours to get through. By the time we did, the queue was horrendous!

    We were struck by the huge number of British-registered cars and commercial vehicles parked up on the Zimbabwean side of the border. Some were newish. Most were older. Some looked like they had been there for a very long time and were in a sorry state of disrepair. Laban explained that most were there due to Zimbabweans, who live and work in the UK, buying cars cheaply and shipping them to Walvis Bay in Namibia. They are allowed to be driven through Namibia and Botswana quite easily, but they get stopped by the tough rules in Zimbabwe. It can cost as much as US$5000 to import a car into the country, which is more than most people can afford, and is often more than the car is worth. Other vehicles are subject to Interpol investigations to determine whether or not they were stolen in the UK. It was weird seeing so many familiar-looking vehicles in a far-flung corner of Africa!

    While we were queuing, several warthogs ambled through the border post. I guess there are no checks on wildlife crossing between the two countries! 😂

    Zimbabwe, officially the Republic of Zimbabwe, is a landlocked country in Southern Africa, between the Zambezi and Limpopo Rivers, bordered by South Africa to the south, Botswana to the south-west, Zambia to the north, and Mozambique to the east. The capital and largest city is Harare, and the second largest is Bulawayo. A country of roughly 15 million people, Zimbabwe's largest ethnic group are the Shona, who make up 80% of the population, followed by the Northern Ndebele and other smaller minorities. Zimbabwe has 16 official languages, with English, Shona, and Ndebele being the most common.

    Once everyone was through the border, we got back on the truck and drove through the Zambezi National Park to get to Victoria Falls. Zambezi National Park is a national park located upstream from Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River. It was split off from Victoria Falls National Park in 1979 and is 56,000 hectares in size.

    It took us about 90 minutes to reach the town of Victoria Falls. When we got there, Patrick drove us through the town so that Laban could point out the supermarkets, ATMs, and restaurants he recommended. We were to stay here for three nights. We then got dropped off at the activity centre so that those who wanted to could book things like helicopter flights, zip lining, white-water rafting, and other adrenaline-fuelled excursions! We toyed with the idea of a helicopter flight but decided against it as it was US$165 per person for a 12-minute trip!
    En savoir plus

  • Checking in to Victoria Falls Rest Camp

    15 juillet 2023, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    While some of the others were booking activities, we walked across the road to Victoria Falls Rest Camp, where we were camping. We had already decided we wanted to upgrade, so went to enquire at reception. We were offered a two-bedroomed lodge at a cost of US$84 per night. It was expensive and very dated, but we decided to go for it anyway! Kim and Iona, Heidi and Kris, and Liz, all found other accommodation elsewhere in the town, but we wanted to be on site so we just made the best of it.

    After settling in, a guy came to camp to take orders for T-shirts for the trips we’re doing. We all chose the colours, sizes, and designs we wanted. We paid a US$10 deposit each. Those who are leaving us tomorrow, will get them tomorrow. The rest of us will get them the day after.

    We went to the café on site to get a sandwich for lunch. The wifi there wasn’t strong enough to complete Mark’s application, so I went to sit in reception to try again there. While I was doing that, Mark went to the supermarket to buy ingredients so that we can cook for ourselves a couple of times while we’re here. He had a bit of a nightmare! All of the prices were displayed in obsolete Zimbabwean currency, so he had no clue how much things were. (It turns out that the exchange rate to the dollar is 5500 to 1!!) He also couldn’t get most of the things on our list as the shelves were bare! He ended up getting a small bag of pasta, a tin of tomatoes, a pack of bacon, the smallest jar of coffee imaginable, and a bottle of shampoo for a total price of US$26!! The days of cheap shopping are over!!

    Meanwhile, back at the site, I was still having no luck with the internet. I had to get it done, so I went back to the activity centre and asked if I could log in to their wifi. Success!! I managed to get Mark’s application completed. Now we just have to wait for it to be approved.
    En savoir plus

  • Farewell dinner at Lookout Restaurant

    15 juillet 2023, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    By the time we had done these things, we only had an hour to get ready for our farewell dinner. We were all going to the Lookout Restaurant with views over the gorge which the Victoria Falls flow into. It’s also the location for all the zipwire and flying fox activities. Laban had organised taxis to take us there and bring us back. We had a lovely meal and were entertained by the Black Amakhwezi Ensemble who sang and danced. The crew came along, and we organised to pay for their meals. There were one or two dissenting voices who quibbled over a couple of dollars, but we didn’t let it spoil the atmosphere. It was a great way to spend our last night together.En savoir plus

  • A morning in Victoria Falls town

    16 juillet 2023, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Breakfast was from 7am this morning, but there was no pressure to be on time for it. We didn’t wake up until 7.20! We wandered over, though, as one or two people were leaving early doors, and we didn’t want to miss saying goodbye to them. We stayed chatting to a few people for a while and said our farewells to Sarah, who is flying to Singapore to continue her travels in Asia. We then went to update our emails before walking into town. The town is full of souvenir shops and little else! We looked in a few of them, and I bought some country patches with the idea that I will stitch them on to a bag before our next trip.

    We returned to the Lookout Café to watch some of our group do their adrenaline activities. On the way in, we saw warthogs and banded mongoose. We sat with John and Trish, who had the same idea! They didn’t stay to see the others, but then Nathan and Georgie joined us. We admired the view as we enjoyed our coffee. Sadly, there was a bloated dead hippo at the bottom of the gorge. We saw Maddie do her flying fox ride, but the others were doing the canopy rope walk first, which would take them to the other side of the gorge and would take an hour. We decided not to wait as there were other things we wanted to do.

    My elephant necklace that I bought in South Africa had broken on my way into the restaurant. The waiter had kindly collected up all the beads and wrapped them in a serviette. He suggested that I take them to the craft market opposite the entrance to the falls to get them rethreaded. So, this is where we headed. I met a guy called Antonio who said he could do the job for US$5, so I left it with him.

    Zimbabwe is such a poor country with an economy that’s on its knees and 80% unemployment. Everyone is trying to make a living by selling you some product or service. You get hassled every time you walk down the street. It’s heartbreaking, but you can’t help everyone! The most common item these people are trying to sell is obsolete and worthless Zimbabwean trillion dollar notes!

    We then went to visit the falls. Victoria Falls is a waterfall on the Zambezi River, which provides habitat for several unique species of plants and animals. It is located on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and is one of the world's largest waterfalls, with a width of 1,708 metres.

    Archeological sites and oral history describe a long record of African knowledge of the site. Though known to some European geographers before the 19th century, Scottish missionary David Livingstone identified the falls in 1855, providing the English colonial name of Victoria Falls after Queen Victoria. Since the mid-20th century, the site has been an increasingly important source of tourism. Zambia and Zimbabwe both have national parks and tourism infrastructure at the site. Research in the late 2010s found that precipitation variability due to climate change is likely to change the character of the fall in the near future.

    We made for the entrance to the Victoria Falls National Park. Foreigners have to pay US$50 each to go in. Once inside, you follow a marked trail to visit 12 viewpoints. As you go, you get progressively wetter!! We were wearing our rain jackets, but mine, in particular, was useless against the deluge we had to walk through. We were absolutely soaked!! There is so much water in the falls at the moment. We took some lovely photos at the start of the trail, but by about halfway through, there was so much spray and mist that it was difficult to see anything at all! The whole place is absolutely stunning, though. It is undoubtedly a bucket list destination that everyone should see at some point in their life.
    En savoir plus

  • Walking across the Zim-Zam border

    16 juillet 2023, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    When we exited the park, we walked to the border with Zambia, getting our clothes dry in the sunshine as we did so. The Zimbabwe/Zambia border is in the middle of a bridge across the gorge. People are allowed to walk across and stand with one foot in each country. You just have to pick up a pass on the Zimbabwe side so that you can get back in again. We walked to the middle and took photos down into what they call the ‘boiling pot’ below. We also watched as some mad fools bungee jumped down into the gorge!

    The bridge was the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes, part of his grand and unfulfilled Cape to Cairo railway scheme, even though he never visited the falls and died before construction of the bridge began. Rhodes is recorded as instructing the engineers to "build the bridge across the Zambezi where the trains, as they pass, will catch the spray of the Falls." It was designed by George Andrew Hobson of consultants Sir Douglas Fox and Partners, assisted by the stress calculations of Ralph Freeman, who was later the principal designer of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The main central arch is a parabolic curve.

    The bridge was prefabricated in England by the Cleveland Bridge & Engineering Company before being shipped to the port city of Beira in Portuguese-ruled Mozambique and then transported on the newly constructed railway to the Victoria Falls. It took just 14 months to construct and was completed in 1905.
    The bridge was officially opened by Professor Sir George Darwin, son of Charles Darwin and President of the British Association, on 12 September 1905.

    Constructed from steel, the bridge is 198 metres long, with a main arch spanning 156.50 metres at a height of 128 metres above the lower water mark of the river in the gorge below. It carries a road, railway, and footway. The bridge is the only rail link between Zambia and Zimbabwe and one of only three road links between the two countries.
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  • Lunch at the Three Monkeys

    16 juillet 2023, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We then walked back into Zimbabwe. We went to pick up my necklace from Antonio, who had done a great job. Our intention had been to go back to the Lookout for lunch, but we changed our minds and headed to the Three Monkeys instead. I’m glad we did because we met up with Maddie, Phil, Mel, Liz, and Iona, and had lunch with them. We heard all about their zipline activities and watched the videos! Mark had crumbed prawns and crocodile skewers for lunch. I had a more mundane margarita pizza. It was all delicious!

    After lunch, we headed back to camp in time for our 4pm welcome meeting to meet our new group. We are to be joined by Jenny and Greg, Niamh from Ireland, Corrina and Mika from Canada, and Joey, Jilly, and Tina from Australia. Despite our fears, they all seem OK. It will be odd, though, to completely change the dynamic of the group.

    T-shirt man arrived with the shirts for those leaving today. Most of them had something wrong with them! I hope ours are right tomorrow!

    We then said our goodbyes to Nathan and Georgie, Natasha, Mel, Ken, and Maddie and Phil, promising to keep in touch via the wonders of the internet and social media!

    We went for a drink at the bar, and then went back to our lodge. I spent the evening catching up with my trip diary, the intention being to spend tomorrow posting!
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