• Happy Days Travel
  • Happy Days Travel

Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Okumaya devam et
  • Lunch in Durbar Square

    20 Mart, Nepal ☁️ 24 °C

    By the time I exited the museum, I was ready for something to eat, so I found a table in a cafe overlooking the square and ordered chicken sadeko, a popular Nepali starter featuring cooked pieces of chicken thigh mixed with fresh onion, garlic, ginger, coriander, green chillies, lemon juice, and a dressing of tempered mustard oil. It was delicious!Okumaya devam et

  • The Golden Temple

    20 Mart, Nepal ☁️ 24 °C

    After lunch, I visited the Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal). This magnificent Buddhist temple is tucked away in a hidden courtyard. It's not easy to find! At the moment, it is undergoing extensive restoration work, but it was still worth a visit. Its history dates back to the 12th century, and its gilded metal facade is one of the most beautiful in Patan. The main priest of the temple is a young boy under the age of 12, who serves for 30 days before handing the job over to another young boy. The guardians of the temple are yellow tortoises that supposedly wander around all over the site. I didn't see any!Okumaya devam et

  • A trip to the cinema

    20 Mart, Nepal ☁️ 21 °C

    When I came out of the temple, it started to rain, so I decided to get a cab back to Kathmandu. I had seen everything I wanted to in Patan anyway. I asked the driver to drop me off at the Chhaya Centre. I had read that Ryan Gosling's new film, Project Hail Mary, was being released today and there would be a showing at 4.45pm. I was too early, but I decided to go and see if I could get a ticket. My mission was successful 😄. From the seating plan, it looked like the cinema would be almost full to capacity.

    As I had a couple of hours to spare, I went for a wander through Tamel and stopped at the Artisan Bakery for an iced Americano. Afterwards, the sky went black, and there was thunder in the air, so I headed back to the Chhaya Centre. I got there just as the heavens opened! It was one almighty storm!! I was glad to wait indoors, even if the power kept going off, and I doubted that they would actually be able to show the film. In the end, all was well. I got myself a small bag of salted popcorn and went to find my seat. Everyone else coming in had trays full of burgers, chips, hot dogs, buckets of popcorn, and massive cartons of drinks! I enjoyed the film, though probably not as much as the rest of the audience, who all appeared to be locals. They laughed out loud at jokes that I thought were mildly amusing, and gasped in horror at the 'scary' bits! At the end, they all applauded and cheered loudly. It was quite an experience. It was a long film (2 hours 36 minutes), made even longer by a 30-minute intermission so that people could go and get more food and drink!

    It was 8.30pm by the time I was leaving the theatre and walking back to my hotel. It was only drizzling by then, but the roads and pavements were really wet from the storm. It was also pitch black. I had to use the torch on my phone to see where I was walking. It was too late to collect my laundry, so that will be the first job tomorrow.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Exploring my local neighbourhood

    24 Mart, Nepal ⛅ 22 °C

    I've spent the last few days working.

    Today, after a productive morning's work, I headed out for lunch. I went to Kumari's Restaurant, which was recommended in Lonely Planet, particularly for its buff (buffalo) chow mein. It's a real 'spit and sawdust' restaurant that looks nothing from the outside. It was busy, though, with locals (all men!), so I went in and ordered the famous dish, along with a lassi. I have to say, it was delicious. I got a large plateful, and my bill was only 350 Nepali Rupees (about £1.75).

    After eating, I went for a walk around the neighbourhood. Even though I've been here for almost a month, I'm still finding streets I haven't walked down before - and so close to my accommodation, too. I don't think you could ever get bored of a city like this. I took lots more photos of colourful and interesting shops.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Apple pie and yoghurt

    24 Mart, Nepal ⛅ 21 °C

    When I'd done my 10,000 steps, I treated myself to a slice of apple pie from the Snowman Cafe, another Lonely Planet recommendation. This restaurant was one of the first to open in Freak Street in the 1960s. It has been an institution for hippies and backpackers for decades. It is still owned and operated by the same guy. His homemade apple pie is legendary, but I found it really disappointing. It was heavily flavoured with cloves, which made it taste rather medicinal. Each to their own, I suppose.

    On my way back to my hotel, I bought some local fermented yoghurt. I love that it's sold in the terracotta pots that its made in. I'm going to miss it when I'm back in India.

    We had some rain this evening, but it was still warm. I opened my windows and took in the sights and sounds of central Kathmandu - another thing I'm going to miss!
    Okumaya devam et

  • The Garden of Dreams

    25 Mart, Nepal ☁️ 24 °C

    I dropped off my laundry this morning and then came back to the hotel to work.

    Later, I made my way to Thamel. I had booked a tour to Boudhanath Stupa and Pashupati Temple, starting from the Garden of Dreams at 4.15pm. I walked over there early to give me a chance to explore the gardens.

    They were created by Kaiser Shumsher JB Rana in the 1920s and were the most refined Rana gardens of the time. They were restored as a Kathmandu cultural landmark with the support of the Austrian government and were opened to the general public in October 2006. Today, they are a magnet for young Nepali Instagrammers who don't have to pay to enter (foreigners pay 400 rupees). I enjoyed my visit. I spent most of it sitting on a bench watching the antics of girls in elaborate long dresses and saris and boys in cheap suits videoing each other for the 'gram' 😄.

    I then went for a last wander around Thamel. I bought a pair of cotton trousers (green, of course 😂) and had a ham and cheese croissant in Pumpernickel Bakery for lunch before heading back to meet Rajan, my guide.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Boudhanath Temple

    25 Mart, Nepal ☁️ 22 °C

    He was early, as was I, but we had to wait for quite a while to get a taxi. When we did, we got stuck in Kathmandu's rush hour traffic, so it took us about 45 minutes to cover the 5 kilometres to Boudhanath Stupa. When we arrived, there was a real wow moment as we passed through the entry point and I got my first sight of the stupa.

    Boudhanath Stupa is a major spiritual landmark seen as the embodiment of the enlightened mind of all the Buddhas, located in Boudha, within the city of Kathmandu. Built in the northeast of Kathmandu Valley and originally surrounded by rice paddies, the stupa gave birth to Tibetan Buddhism. It is filled with consecrated substances, and its layout as a massive mandala makes it the largest spherical stupa in Nepal and one of the largest in the world.

    The present structure was most likely built in the 14th century, although Newar chronicles mention the construction of a stupa here as early as the 5th century. In 1979 the Boudha Stupa became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Following the 1959 Tibetan uprising, a large number of Tibetan refugees migrated to Nepal and settled around the stupa in Boudha. The Tibetan diaspora has given rise to the construction of over 50 gompas and Buddhist monasteries, restaurants, guesthouses, and artisanal businesses around Boudha. Along with Swayambhunath and Namo Buddha, it is one of the most visited pilgrimage sites for devout Buddhists, and also attracts tourists to the Kathmandu area.

    Many visitors to the stupa come to do the kora, a meditative ritual rooted in Tibetan Buddhist tradition. It involves circumambulating the stupa clockwise while spinning prayer wheels, chanting quietly, and walking with full presence. To do it respectfully, one must dress modestly, avoid loud speech or intrusive photography, and observe the behaviour of locals. The early morning and dusk are ideal times to experience the stillness and devotion this practice embodies. More than a ritual, kora is a quiet act of connection to yourself, the community, and something timeless. It was quite a spectacle to stand and watch the Buddhist devotees.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Pashupati Temple

    25 Mart, Nepal ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a coffee overlooking the stupa, and then took a taxi to our second stop - Pashupati Temple. This is a revered Hindu temple dedicated to Pashupati, a manifestation of Shiva. Located on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River in Kathmandu, the temple is one of the oldest and most significant religious complexes in South Asia. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, it is one of seven monument groups in UNESCO's designation of Kathmandu Valley and is described as an "extensive Hindu temple precinct" comprising a vast network of temples, ashrams, inscriptions, and images raised over the centuries along the banks of the sacred Bagmati River. The temple, considered one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Hindus, is built on an area of 246 hectares and includes 518 mini-temples and the principal pagoda-style temple.

    Beyond its role as a pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple is world-renowned for its traditional open-air cremation ceremonies, performed daily at the cremation ghats along the river. Known as the most sacred site for Hindu cremation in Nepal, the Pashupatinath Temple cremation complex is where families conduct final rites according to ancient customs. Visitors are drawn not only by religious devotion but also by the powerful experience of witnessing the Pashupatinath cremation ceremony, which offers a rare and profound glimpse into the Hindu cremation process. This sacred ritual, deeply symbolic and spiritually rich, underscores why cremation at Pashupatinath Temple holds such cultural and spiritual weight in Nepalese society.

    This is why we were here. Every day, families bring the bodies of their deceased loved ones to the temple's cremation complex, located beside the holy Bagmati River. Cremations usually begin in the morning and continue until dusk. Visitors can observe these rituals from across the river, where respectful distance is maintained. Cremation here is not just a personal ceremony but also a cultural practice that reflects Hindu beliefs about life, death, and the soul’s journey. The sight of the burning pyres, smoke rising into the sky, and mourners chanting prayers is deeply moving, offering a unique window into Nepalese and Hindu traditions.

    It was quite a shock to suddenly see several cremations in progress, and another body being brought to the water's edge to be burned, albeit we were at a distance. There were hundreds of spectators, seemingly oblivious to the smell of burning flesh in the air. There were lots of families with young children, and there was something of a party atmosphere. Nobody seemed upset or fazed. Here, the ritual is a normal part of life. It's in stark contrast to the way we do things in the west. In the light of Mark's recent death, and the unattended cremation we had for him, I'm undecided as to which system has more merit.

    We watched for a while and then crossed the river to attend the Pashupatinath Bagmati Aarati, a spiritual ceremony filled with chants, lights, and devotion. Every evening, as the sun sets over the sacred river, the air fills with the divine sound of bells, conch shells, and sacred chants. This ritual is not just a religious ceremony—it is a deeply moving cultural performance that connects devotees to the divine presence of Lord Shiva. Three priests perform the sacred worship using ghee lamps, oil lanterns, and incense. They move the lamps in circular motions, symbolizing the offering of light and life to the Divine. The rhythmic chants of Vedic mantras, accompanied by bhajans (devotional songs), create an atmosphere filled with peace and spiritual energy. An integral part of the ceremony is the Tandav dance, a powerful and symbolic dance of Lord Shiva representing the cosmic cycle of creation and destruction. Devotees perform this dance as an offering of reverence and energy during the Aarati, making the scene even more vibrant. It was certainly a spectacle. Whilst I didn't understand everything that was happening, it was clear that it meant a lot to all those in attendance.

    Afterwards, we had to make the long walk back to where we had left our shoes (I don't think I've ever walked so far barefoot!). We were almost there when Rajan realised he didn't have his phone. I waited while he went back to where we'd been sitting. He was gone for a long time, and we were in danger of not being able to retrieve our shoes. The guy at the counter refused point blank to give them to me because Rajan had the ticket! He was about to lock the gate when Rajan finally appeared. Thankfully, he had the ticket - and his phone!

    We then took a taxi back to Thamel and I walked back to my hotel. It had been a unique experience. I'm glad I witnessed it, but I won't be rushing to repeat it.
    Okumaya devam et

  • From Kathmandu to Delhi

    27 Mart, Nepal ☁️ 22 °C

    I spent my last full day in Nepal working and packing. I was low on Nepali cash and didn't want to draw any more, so I stayed in and ate the remaining groceries I had in the cupboard! Later, I went out to pick up my laundry.

    It was with a real sense of sadness that I checked out of Cityview Guest House this morning. The property really suited my needs. I was able to get a lot of work done, as well as explore Kathmandu from my central location. I wouldn't hesitate to book there again if I want somewhere to work for a few weeks.

    Having said that, what followed did not leave me with the best impression of Nepal! It proved far more difficult to leave the country than it had been to enter it!

    The taxi to the airport was fine, but then things got frustrating! The check-in area at Kathmandu Airport is tiny and very disorganised. It was chaotic! I was early as I always am, and Air India's check-in desks were not open. I'd already checked in online, so I just needed to drop my bag, but there was nowhere to do this, and nowhere to wait, either. I just had to stand in the general melee and keep moving out of the way when people with trolleys wanted to get through. Despite being told to be at the airport three hours before departure time, the check-in desks didn't even open until less than two hours before! I was second in line and checked in, only to be told to go to the corner and make sure my bag went through to airside! That has never happened to me before. I joined a crowd at the end of the conveyor and watched as my bag passed me. I still wasn't allowed to leave. I had to check that it was correctly removed from the belt on the other side of a curtain. Anybody's luggage that wasn't, had to do it themselves! In effect, we were all being asked to be baggage handlers. As I was told I was free to go to security, I had no faith that my case would actually arrive in Delhi 😄.

    We then had to go through three separate passport and paperwork checks before we were finally stamped out of Nepal. This was frustrating because certain passengers kept getting fast-tracked. Just when you thought you were getting close to the front of a queue, several monks flying business class would suddenly be allowed in front of you!

    Bag security took ages! They were very thorough, which is no bad thing, but it was the way the officers just tipped our belongings out of our bags and then pushed the loose items down to the end of the bench that was annoying. Everything was mixed up. People were struggling to find their shoes! I was clearly taking too long to sort my stuff out, so it was unceremoniously pushed off the bench onto the floor! Luckily, I'd grabbed my laptop before this happened!

    When we had successfully navigated all of this, we were already at the departure gates. There were no facilities to speak of - just one small cafe/shop where the staff were struggling to cope with the demand of thousands of passengers. I found somewhere to sit and wait. Our scheduled departure time had already passed, so it was obvious we were delayed, even though there had been no announcement to say so.

    Eventually, they called my flight. We passed through security again. I've never had a boarding card with so many stamps on it and holes punched in it in my life! Then, it was onto a bus to be taken to the aircraft. There appeared to be only one bus per flight, so we had to wait for the first busload of passengers to be taken before the driver could come back for the next lot.

    I was on the final bus, and I thought we would soon be on our way. However, when we got to the plane, things got even stranger. There were three sheds on wheels joined together (like small railway carriages) pushed up against the steps up into the plane. Another first for me. There were already lots of passengers queuing up on the tarmac. We were separated into males and females and directed to join the appropriate queue. We were all rather bemused at what was going on. We were told we couldn't take photos, but I'd already taken a couple before I was stopped from taking any more.

    We waited a long time in those queues without understanding why. When we finally entered the first of the 'carriages', we realised it was another security check. The reason it was taking so long was that they were emptying all of our carry-on luggage and checking everything. Some people protested that we'd already been checked thoroughly, but the officers were having none of it. The lady in front of me had her walking poles confiscated, despite the fact that the earlier screening had allowed them through. When it came to my turn, I was confident that I had nothing that I shouldn't have. However, they objected to my insect repellent and the sugar-free caramels that I suck to stop the pain in my ears during take-off and landing. They took both items off me. I asked why the earlier check had allowed them through. They said it was an airline ruling. When I said I had taken several Air India flights in the last few months and had always had these things in my hand luggage, they told me that the rule applied specifically to the Kathmandu-Delhi route. I was getting annoyed by this time. I was about to argue that I had brought both items to Nepal on an Air India flight from Delhi four weeks ago, but I heard Mark's voice in my head telling me to keep quiet and just accept what was happening 😄. So, I did!

    We finally took off almost two hours late, but we did make up some time during the flight, and they did serve a very tasty chicken curry and rice for lunch, so it wasn't all bad 😂. And my case did make it to Delhi, albeit it was the last item off the plane, and I was beginning to fear the worst! Once through security (again!), and getting told off for not completing an e-Arrival form (I'd actually forgotten I was on an international flight!), I finally made it to the outside world and got a taxi to my hotel.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Arriving at the Grand Uddhav

    27 Mart, Hindistan 🌙 28 °C

    It quickly became apparent that the driver had no idea where it was, despite saying otherwise! However, for once, my wifi was working, so I used Maps to direct him 😄. At least, when I eventually got there, my hotel was nice, and my room was comfortable. I didn't fancy going out again, so I went to the rooftop restaurant for a bite to eat. It wasn't the best, but it was OK. I'm happy to be here for the next eight nights.Okumaya devam et

  • The walking tour that wasn't 😃

    28 Mart, Hindistan ⛅ 25 °C

    I had booked a walking tour of Connaught Place, New Delhi, and some local markets this morning, so I got up fairly early and went for breakfast on the roof (it's included in the room rate). I passed on the curries and the pasta and chose to have boiled eggs, toast, fruit, and coffee to set me up for the day.

    The British moved their capital to New Delhi from Calcutta in 1911. They set about building grand imperial buildings and spacious boulevards. Architect Edwin Lutyens was behind much of the design. The landmark Connaught Place was fashioned after the Palladian colonnades of Bath in England. When the British were thrown out in 1948, New Delhi remained the seat of national power, as it is today.

    The starting point for the tour was a twenty-minute walk from my hotel, so I set off in plenty of time to get there for the 9.40am start time. On the way, I found a chemist and bought some repellent to replace the one that was confiscated yesterday. Then, I started getting messages asking where I was and why I was late. It was 9.15! I messaged back to say I was on my way, but it didn't feel like a good start to the tour. My feelings were correct!

    When I got to the meeting point, I was greeted by my guide and tuk-tuk driver, Pau, and another guy. We all got in the tuk-tuk and did a circle around Connaught Place. There was very little explanation about what I was seeing. We stopped to see Agrasen Ki Baoli, a 14th century stepwell built to solve the problem of low water levels in Delhi's plain. Pau's mate, who came with me, couldn't answer any of my questions, so I did my own research later. This baoli was once in the countryside until the city grew up around it. There are 103 steps to the bottom, flanked by arched niches. Delhi one had over 100 baolis. Only 30 survive today.

    Back in the tuk-tuk, we drove to Central Park and straight past it, despite the fact that a walk around it was on the itinerary. We drove to Jhandewalan Hanuman Temple. Pau wasn't going to stop, but I asked him to and I went inside. The temple is famous for its 34-metre-tall Hanuman statue. You enter through a demon's mouth into a fake cave filled with tacky deities and gurus wanting to bless you for payment. I had the obligatory blessing and cord tied around my wrist, took some photos, and left. 

    We drove on to a textile emporium, where I was subjected to the usual hard sell. I was really angry by this point. When I escaped, I confronted Pau and told him that this is not what I'd booked. I had booked a guided walking tour from Connaught Place. It was sold as 'a heritage walk with local markets'. So far, it had been none of those things. Pau seemed surprised by what I was telling him. I said I still needed to see Jantar Mantar and Janpath Market, both places on the itinerary that I wanted to visit. He said, 'OK, we'll drive to Jantar Mantar and then we'll walk.'
    Okumaya devam et

  • Jantar Mantar

    28 Mart, Hindistan ⛅ 28 °C

    A few minutes later, we arrived at Jantar Mantar. This time, Pau got out with me, and his mate drove off, obviously having arranged to pick us up later. We crossed the road and Pau asked me if I wanted to go in. I said, 'Of course, entrance is included in what I paid for the tour.' Again, Pau was surprised. He wanted proof, so I showed him all the details of the tour I'd booked and he took screen shots to show his boss. He still wasn't going to pay for my ticket, and said he would wait for me outside. At this point, I'd had enough. I told him I would continue by myself. I firmly refused his request for a tip. What a cheek!

    Once he'd left, I calmed myself down, bought my ticket, and went to visit Jantar Mantar, one of five observatories built by Maharaja Jai Singh II, ruler of Jaipur. Built in 1725, Jantar Mantar is a well-maintained park containing a collection of curving geometric structures carefully calibrated to monitor the movement of the stars and planets. The eccentric shapes include the Samrat Yantra, a giant sundial, the Misra Yantra, an upside-down heart which is a world-time clock, and the Ram Yantra, circular buildings with rows of windows to observe the positions of celestial bodies. I didn't fully understand what I was looking at, but it was a calm and peaceful place to spend an hour - just what I needed after the morning I'd had.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Markets and lunch

    28 Mart, Hindistan ☁️ 28 °C

    From Jantar Mantar, I walked down the road to Janpath Market. I'm not sure that I found the main market, but I certainly found some interesting local stalls, including one selling Punjabi outfits. I got talking to the owner, who insisted on having a selfie with me 😄. Everyone in the market was very friendly without being pushy. Outside, however, it was a different story. I was constantly hassled for the first time since arriving in India 5 months ago! When polite, friendly but firm responses didn't dissuade them, I just had to be rude! 😂

    My plan to visit Central Park was thwarted because it was closed for lunch, so I headed back towards Connaught Place. I will return to the area another day. On my way back to my hotel, I stopped at a little cafe and had a delicious masala dosa and a black coffee. The total bill was less than £1!

    The area around my hotel is full of local shops and stalls, so I bought some fruit (including a variety of musk melon I hadn't seen before) and some Diet Cokes before going back to my room to work and watch some TV. I was feeling knackered after the tribulations of yesterday and today, and the fact that it was 35 degrees outside today!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Food tour in Old Delhi

    29 Mart, Hindistan ⛅ 33 °C

    I can't believe I'll be home three weeks today. This epic adventure is coming to an end. There's still lots to look forward to, though, not least the Intrepid Golden Triangle Tour I'm doing with Fiona 😄.

    For today, I had breakfast, which included poha (my favourite!), and then did some work ahead of my 12 noon pick-up for a food tour of Old Delhi. I had my fingers crossed that this would work out better than yesterday's 'tour' 😂.

    Old Delhi is the anarchic, charming, and unmissable heart of the city. Wandering through the tangled lanes is said to give you the sense of going backstage to where Delhi's real life takes place. We will be doing a walking tour here on the first day of our Intrepid trip, but I wanted to visit before then to get an idea of what it's like.

    Shah Jahan moved his capital here from Agra in 1648, the same year that work was completed on the Taj Mahal, his wife's mausoleum. He named the city Shahjahanabad and built the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, while his daughter Jahanara Begum designed Chandni Chowk. The half-moon-shaped walled city had 14 gates, including Kashmiri Gate and Ajmeri Gate, which are still important city landmarks.

    At the appointed time, I was waiting in my hotel lobby for my guide, Zubair, and my driver, Ali. I was fascinated to see cars driving through my hotel past reception! I managed not to fall for the scam a dodgy tuk-tuk driver tried to do on me, and made it to the correct transport! We drove to Old Delhi, where Zubair and I transferred to a cycle rickshaw, as no motorised transport is allowed in the Chandni Chowk area. I felt very sorry for the driver who had to pedal hard to keep us moving through the traffic.

    Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi's main drag, is lined by Jain, Hindu, and Sikh temples, plus a church, and bookended by the Red Fort and Fatehpuri Masjid. In Mughal times, the street was tree-lined and elegant. Now, it is chaotic with numerous tiny bazaars leading off it.

    We got on and off the cyclo as we went from one food stop to the next. The first was to try jalebi at a shop that's been open since 1884! Jalebi is a common sweet snack made from deep-fried batter soaked in sugar syrup. It is ridiculously sweet and not something I should be eating. I had a small taste to be polite. I'm afraid the rest went in the bin!

    Our next stop was to have aloo paratha and chole bhature upstairs in a tiny restaurant tucked away down a back alley. Both were delicious, although one of the side curries was far too spicy for me! There was just too much food for one person. I did my best, but I had to leave some on the plate.

    We then crossed the road to have kulfi, Indian ice cream flavoured with vanilla, saffron, and almonds, and served on a long stick. It was just what I needed to cool me down after the spicy curry!

    The next tasting was golgappa, a popular North Indian street food snack made with crisp hollow puris filled with spiced potatoes, chickpeas and tangy mint-flavoured water. It is especially famous in Delhi. The spicy, tangy pani, along with sweet tamarind chutney, gives golgappa its signature burst of flavour in every bite. Zubair told me he doesn't usually offer his clients this, as the mint water can be a bit dodgy for people who are new to India. He was happy for me to try it, though, as I have been here for months! So, I tried it. It was delicious, and no, I didn't suffer any bad effects from it!

    We then went for a masala chai. It's never been my favourite, and this one was particularly sweet and sickly. I would have much preferred a black coffee!
    Okumaya devam et

  • The end of the tour

    29 Mart, Hindistan ☁️ 33 °C

    The final food stop was for a mango lassi. It was delicious, and Zubair assured me it would help with my digestion. I was definitely full, and wouldn't need to eat again for the rest of the day!

    We also visited Khari Baoli, Asia's largest spice market. We only went to one stall, where a staff member gave me a quick overview of the spices on sale. I bought some powdered mint and a ground biryani spice mix, but it all felt a bit rushed. I'd love to go back and explore further.

    After the spices, we visited the 17th-century Fatehpuri Masjid, built by Fatehpuri Begum, one of Shah Jahan's wives. It is a haven of tranquillity after the frantic streets outside. After the First War of Independence in 1857, the British sold the mosque to a Hindu nobleman for 19,000 rupees. It was returned to Muslim worship 20 years later in exchange for four villages. Obviously, we had to remove our shoes before entering the mosque, but the floor tiles were burning my feet, so we didn't linger for too long. I was very tempted to go for a paddle in the ornamental pond!

    We then got back in the cyclo and returned to where we'd left our car. We went on the wrong side of the road, directly into oncoming traffic - hair-raising, to say the least! Zubair left me at this point to return home, and Ali drove me back to my hotel. I had enjoyed the tour, though it wasn't as long as I expected (just over two hours, rather than the four hours stated in the description).

    I didn't do much else for the rest of the day 😂.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Exploring Paharganj

    30 Mart, Hindistan ☁️ 33 °C

    I worked on some blog posts about dark tourism this morning. Later, I went out to explore my local neighbourhood. There are so many shops around here, catering for every local and traveller's needs. I bought two shirts and some basics like fruit and some flattened rice so that I can make authentic poha at home. I had lunch in Madan Cafe, which was recommended in Lonely Planet. I knew I was in the right place as soon as I walked in. All the other customers were white tourists! I hadn't seen any up to this point - they were all clearly LP readers 😂.Okumaya devam et

  • Government-run emporiums

    31 Mart, Hindistan ⛅ 28 °C

    After breakfast (no eggs on the buffet, so I just had a banana and a coffee), I walked over to Connaught Place to visit a whole street of government-run emporiums, each one representing the textiles and handicrafts of a different state of India. Online, it said that they opened at 10am. When I got there at 9.50, I discovered that they don't open until 11! So, I used my unexpected free time to have a second breakfast/early lunch. I had a delucious tomato and onion uttapam that set me up for the rest of the day.

    When the shops opened, I retraced my steps. I went to Khadi first, a shop selling the hand-spun and woven natural fibre cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as a symbol of the homeland in the struggle for Indian independence from the British. The term is used throughout the Indian subcontinent. The first piece of the hand-woven cloth was made in the Sabarmati Ashram of Gandhi in 1917. The coarseness of the cloth led Gandhi to call it khadi. The cloth is made from cotton, but it may also include silk or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a charkha. It is a versatile fabric that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. To improve its appearance, khadi is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. I've been looking for khadi all over India as a suitable fabric for doing sashiko on, so when I was faced with a whole shopful of it, I couldn't resist! I ended up buying 8 metres of it in shades of blue and purple. It was only £1.50/metre!

    I didn't go in all of the shops, but I did visit Gujarat ahead of my November trip, and I did go into tge Rajasthan outlet. There, I bought four block-printed cotton stoles, the type I had refrained from buying all the time I was in Rajasthan 😄.

    Later, I wandered back to the hotel, taking photos of street art along the way. I just made it back before the heavens opened and there was an almighty storm!
    Okumaya devam et

  • The National Crafts Museum

    1 Nisan, Hindistan ☀️ 28 °C

    After breakfast (no eggs again 😃), I booked an auto on Uber to take me to the National Crafts Museum. The museum is a combination of galleries displaying traditional art and crafts from every region of India, and a village complex made up of 15 huts built in the style of various Indian states, where artists and craftspeople demonstrate their skills to the public. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit. Before I even went in, I photographed all the different styles of painting decorating the outer walls of the museum.Okumaya devam et

  • Textile galleries

    1 Nisan, Hindistan ⛅ 29 °C

    The audio guide included with my entrance ticket was excellent. I learned so much during my visit. Obviously, I was more taken with the huge collection of textiles than anything else. The only disappointment was that everything was displayed behind glass (for obvious reasons), so it was difficult to see the detail, and even harder to photograph it.Okumaya devam et

  • Purana Qila

    1 Nisan, Hindistan ☁️ 32 °C

    Afterwards, I walked to Purana Qila, Delhi's 'Old Fort'. This was a haven of calm and tranquility away from the craziness of the city's traffic. I was amazed at the serenity of the place as soon as I entered through the majestically imposing Bada Darwaza gateway. All I could hear was birdsong. The tree-shaded landscaped gardens were lush, green, and beautiful.

    The fort was built by Afghan ruler Sher Shah (1538 - 1545) during his brief ascendancy over Humayun. Just a few years later, in 1556, Mughal Emperor Humayun died here when he fell down the steps of his library.
    Okumaya devam et