India
Bārmer

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    • Day 8

      The Shit Show Wonderful Launch Day

      January 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      I’m sitting here in our hotel room in Barmer, India. We drove more than 200 kilometers today (Americans, figure it out, I’m too tired to translate into miles) in the baking tin with wheels. Joe is currently passed out on the bed, likely exhausted from all of the post-adrenaline rush and the gin and tonic(s) we needed to drink after that incredible experience.

      OK, where to start?

      The launch send off. Everyone had to be packed and ready to go by the group photo at 7:45 AM, and the subsequent “send off” with drums and exaltation at 8 AM. We were both awake long before the 6 AM alarm went off, and spent an hour or so packing our gear, having some chai and cheese sandwiches in our hotel room, and heading to the Palace to get the rickshaw packed up.

      The energy was palpable. Everyone was so nervous and excited and ready for whatever. One group had installed kids’ instruments in their rickshaw (a xylophone, drum set and guitar) and was driving around the training circle entertaining everyone with Teletubbies music. There were some people showing off their costumes - leopard onesies, pirate outfits, our Norwegian friends with Viking baseball hats, firefighters, etc. We were in our Rajasthani garb and not feeling terribly out of place.

      A drumming band and Rajasthani dancers started playing the exit music and everyone lined up to drive out into the great expanse. Three people’s rickshaw’s broke down before the first main intersection. We headed with our Viking Norwegian friends to the nearest gas station to fill up our gas canisters. That attracted the entire gas station staff to gather around and watch Joe and Glen the Viking fill up our canisters.

      Our Viking friends broke down once due to their gas cap being on too tight and causing a weird suction phenomenon that completely shut down their rickshaw for lack of gas. All Joe and I suffered from was sore butts from the hundreds and hundreds of bumps on the dusty side road we all thought would be a brilliant idea to explore rather than being on the main highway.

      What we learned on Day 1 was that as soon as you stop for whatever reason - broken down, need to go to the bathroom (take toilet paper with you), just want a rest, need some food - you will immediately attract a crowd of curious onlookers. And the best way to engage them and stop the staring party is to ask them if you can take a selfie with them. Which always works. The smiles of these people are so wonderful. All it takes is to smile first.

      The road less travelled is always the best one.
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    • Day 6

      Goldberg’s in the House!

      January 1, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      So in Jaisalmer Fort there’s an Italian restaurant called “Jaisal Italy”. If you say it fast enough it sounds like “Little Italy”. But not really.

      We saw the sign and their promo slogan about being authentically Italian as soon as we arrived in the fort. We were skeptical. It’s just not possible that you can find good Italian food in Jaisalmer Fort, especially in the most touristy area right near the main gate.

      But we were hungry, and it was late. So we walked up the steep stairs and asked for a table. Our waiter came to the table. “What would you like?” he asked. “What’s good here?” we responded, like anybody should in any Italian restaurant. “The pizza is good,” the waiter said. We were skeptical again. Because Joe makes really good pizza at home, and we’ve probably eaten some of the best pizza in the world in various places in Italy. And we’re in India, which is not famous for pizza.

      “OK, we’ll take the cheese pizza that has the sausage,” we requested. “And your best bottle of wine,” which turned out to be a Cabernet Sauvignon made in India. “Do you have any wines made in Italy?” we asked. “No” was the response. Indian wine it was.

      Well, the wine and the pizza weren’t terrible. Enough said.

      They had an espresso machine in the corner. We decided to return the next day for coffee.

      When we walked up the stairs, we were immediately recognized. In fact, the greeter and several of the waiters walked up to Joe while we were having our drinks and told him he looks like Bill Goldberg. I didn’t know who Bill Goldberg was so asked, afraid once again that I’d be accused of not being in touch with pop culture. Well, yet again I was oblivious to something everyone knew, apparently.

      One of the most popular figures of the professional wrestling boom during the late 1990s and early 2000s, Goldberg is widely regarded as one of the most powerful wrestlers of all time. He is credited with inventing the spear finishing move in wrestling, which he popularized, and for which he gained a reputation for being the best at executing the move.

      My husband is apparently a spitting image of him in the eyes of many Indian men.

      We ate or had some wine at that restaurant five times while we stayed in Jaisalmer, and every time we walked up the stairs Joe would yell “Goldberg’s in the HOUSE!”. And the entire staff would burst out laughing and smile every time they came to our table.

      It’s the little things that matter.
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    • Day 515

      Route nach Jodhpur 2. Tag

      December 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Heute gab es ein wenig mehr Abwechslung auf meiner Route Richtung Jodhpur. Unverschämte Preise beim Hotel: ich sollte 2000 Rupien für das Zimmer zahlen. Habe es schließlich für 500 bekommen. Mehr ist es auch nicht wert. (Entspricht 5,50 €)
      Fast immer konnte ich den Preis fürs Hotelzimmer bisher runterhandeln.
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    • Day 4

      Ecolos avant gardistes

      March 23, 2016 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      Nous voilà partis pour une excursion de quelques heures à la rencontre d'un peuple qui nous intrigue fortement... Les Vishnoïs! Peuplant les villages alentours de Jodhpur et principalement le Rajasthan, dans la campagne évidemment, les Vishnoïs seraient les premiers écolos par principe philosophique! D'où notre immense curiosité à l'idée de découvrir leur mode de vie! Arrivés sur place, pas de cheveux long, ni de biocoop, et encore moins greenpeace dans les environs...

      Nous rencontrons successivement 3 familles. La première, une famille de potiers, nous fait une démonstration de fabrication de jarre en terre cuite permettant de garder l'eau fraîche, bien plus écolo qu'un frigo dans une zone semi désertique! Et pour la conservation de la viande et du beurre vous allez me dire? Quelle question, les Vishnoïs sont évidemment végétariens voir même vegans pour certains. Le travail de potier, quelque soit le lieu et les époques, reste un travail fascinant à observer. Je suis toujours admiratif des métiers manuels puisque notre exercice de kiné rentre dans la famille des métiers de dextérité et d'habileté manuelle.

      Puis, notre guide nous conduit sur la propriété d'un couple hors du commun. Jetez un oeil aux photos du petit père et de la petite mère... Quel âge leur donnez vous? 90 ans pour lui et 92 pour elle! Vivant en totale autonomie dans leur case on ne peut plus simpliste, disons même minimaliste, la femme nous prépare le massala chai (thé indien au lait et aux épices, on vous en préparera en contant d'autres histoires indiennes) pendant que lui nous questionne sur notre couple et nos familles respectives. Ô combien primordiale dans la culture indienne, si ce n'est même l'un des piliers fondamentaux avec la religion.
      A part une légère surdité pour lui et quelques maux de dos pour elle, ils paraissent en bonne forme physique et mentale. Le régime végétarien a un bel avenir devant lui!😄

      Nous terminerons la découverte du peuple Vishnoïs avec la rencontre d'une bergère qui élève ses chèvres uniquement pour leur lait. Selon les rumeurs, il paraîtrait que certaines femmes allaiteraient les agneaux lorsqu'ils sont orphelins! Que de communion avec Dame Nature!
      Ce qui a fait grandir leur réputation et gagner en notoriété (bien qu'ils ne la recherchent nullement), ce fût un événement historique quelque peu barbare... N'aimant ni les chasseurs ni les bûcherons (ils ramassent seulement le bois mort!), ils voulurent protéger les arbres environnants contre les coupeurs de bois, en encerclant ceux ci avec leurs bras. Sans scupules, les bûcherons decoupèrent tronc végétal et humain sans distinction... plusieurs centaines de Vishnoïs moururent ainsi. Ce qui fait de ce peuple les seuls sacrifices humains encourus dans le monde pour protéger des arbres uniquement! Je reste admiratif par tant de convictions ecologiques, même si les extrêmes restent souvent démesurées.

      Décision prise, en rentrant en Franche Comté, Amande ouvre son atelier de poterie et moi je commence ma vocation de berger héhé! 😁😁😁
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Bārmer, Barmer

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