Well...on our own now. Much of our luggage was shipped back home and we are now down to 2 small bags each
Staying at a hotel near the airport as we head to Rome tomorrow. Currently in the middle ofRead more
Heute sind wir 7.30 Uhr in Kochi angekommen.👍 es soll Heute 29 Grad heiss werden 🤪🤪. Unsere TukTuk stehen schon bereit für uns 😳😳 wir besichtigen heute Kochi mit TukTuk und zu Fuss😎😎Fotos: Das Morgen Bild, der Terminal, die Gangway und das Frühstüch von Beatrix 🤣👍
Mit diesem TukTuk fuhren wir zum Fisch Markt für die Inder es wird vor Ort Gefischt und direkt Verkauft wie auch viele Früchte.
Es gibt auch viele Hochmoderne Stromleitungs Gestelle 🤣🤣.
Sie haben sehr fortschrittliche Motorrad Parkplätze🤣🤣🤣. Ein par Eindrücke von der Umgebung und Museum.
Morgen sind wir an einem Ort ? Den muss ich nochmal nachschauen 🤣🤣👍😎Read more
Well...on our own now. Much of our luggage was shipped back home and we are now down to 2 small bags each
Staying at a hotel near the airport as we head to Rome tomorrow. Currently in the middle of Ramadan, so most are fasting till after sunset, and the hotel cafe was empty.
We had breakfast and learned about "Appams: Indian Rice Pancakes"....Light, thin, delicious. Oh, how we missed good Indian food.
Headed out to Lulu shopping mall to try and get Morris's cracked tablet screen fixed, and what a mall it turned out to be!! Couldn't get his tablet fixed, but in walking around, we came across a bridal shop selling traditional Indian attire. Inside, we discovered 3 men sitting at a large floor loom hand sewing all the bead work that goes into the fabric!!!! What a beautiful yet tedious process. Such a treat to watch them work as they created beautiful works of art for a bride and groom to wear.
As we took the cab back to the hotel, we were reminded of a lecture we heard before we got off the ship. The speaker talked about the Indian head shaking. No can mean yes, yes can mean no, and shaking head from side to side means kinda yes or maybe. Getting to see this in action from our taxi driver was actually fun to watch while we were trying to interpret what he meant.
Had a lovely swim in the tile inlaid pool before dinner. Fun relaxing day.Read more
Sailed into Cochin, India at dawn. Mary and I took a boat tour of the Backwaters of Kerala. A maze of rivers, canals and lakes that spill into the sea. This area has been occupied for centuries with people farming and fishing for a living. Most of the land is below sea level making it ideal for rice production. Everything comes and goes by boat. Even the bus system is by boat. Hundreds of Rice barges have been converted to Floatels. They plow the waters for one, two or three days, cooking for and entertaining the guests as they go. The Chinese Fishing Nets are very interesting. They lower the nets at night, turn on a light, the light attracts bugs, the bugs attract fish, up comes the net. Done in 15 minute intervals they catch all kinds of fish.Read more
In Esther 1:1 we read, “Now it came to pass in the days of Ahasuerus -- he was the Ahasuerus who reigned from Hodu to Cush, one hundred twenty-seven provinces”. HODU is Hebrew for India.
Kochin is nicknamed “God’s Own Country”. Our visit to “JEW TOWN” was quite a surreal experience. In addition, the belief that Jews were here in Kochi in biblical times after 68 AD, there were still many generations of Jews that settled in this part of India since the 15th Century after persecution by the Portuguese. Until 1948 the Jewish Community had over 2000 members. There are now only two Jews left in this town. There are 14 people (5 families) that are Jewish in the state of Kerala. They still maintain a Synagogue mostly through the donations from visitors and they have Shabbat and High Holyday services. In spite of this sounding sad, they have left quite a legacy and permanent mark as the place where Judaism began in India.
Jews had a strong presence in Mattancherry. At one point, Jew Town had seven Synagogues. Yes, it was and is called Jew Town, not in a derogatory sense but rather to be proud of the fact that Jews were given this area by the King of Kochi in order to established this thriving town. The Jews in this area are known as Paradesi Jews, or foreign Jews, as they are believed to be from Portugal.
We visited the Paradesi Synagogue, the oldest in India, built in 1568 A.D. when Jews were Malabari Jews and Sephardic refugees from the Portuguese religious persecution of Jews in Spain and Portugal. It was built next to the Mattancherry Palace Temple, sharing a wall, maybe that is indicative of the sharing community. In 1968, the 400th anniversary of the synagogue was celebrated in a ceremony attended by Indira Gandhi, the Indian Prime Minister. Maybe just as significant is that Sarah Cohen attended the 450th anniversary in in 2018 (see below).
The synagogue houses 1600 year-old copper plates (led by Joseph Rabban) which has on it the community charter of independence granted to the Jewish community inscribed. Outside the synagogue, there are iron gates decorated with a Jewish Star. On top is a Dutch-style square clock tower with four clocks featuring four different numerals: Hebrew numerals facing the synagogue, Roman numerals facing the palace, Malayalam (Indian) numerals facing the harbor and Arabic numerals facing the public. The floors are covered in hundreds of individually unique hand-painted porcelain tiles brought from China. The Torah, beautifully adorned could only be seen in photos (and the postcards I got) since the ark is only opened on Shabbat morning.
A beautiful story told is of Sarah Cohen (she died in 2019 at 94). A religious and spiritual Jew that lived most of her life here across from the Synagogue and was the glue that kept the community together. She sat in her window facing the street and spoke to everyone that visited the Synagogue and always wore a colorful outfit with a matching kippah that she made. Her and her husband Jacob of 46 years got to know a Muslim souvenir vendor, Thaha, that sold his goods there. She helped him by allowing him to sell his goods in the doorway so the weather would not affect him. They became good friends and eventually Thaha began helping them out at home and in their store.
Sarah owned a small shop, Sarah’s Embroidery Shoppe, near the Synagogue that sold Kippah, Challah covers and tablecloths. Sarah taught Thaha tailoring and crafts and he helped in her store down the street. Before Jacob died in 1999 after 47 years of marriage, he asked Thaha to watch over Sarah. He said he found this a “Godsend” to take care of the icon of the Community. He did and he and his wife Jasmine have been watching over her and their legacy ever since.
Thaha, who looked after Sarah for more than 30 years (including 10 years before her husband Jacob died), decided to make Sarah’s home into a Jewish Museum that he takes care to preserve including polishing all the relics and still tailoring and chronicling Jewish history here. As he says (yes, we got to meet him when we visited Sarah’s store), “This is an attempt to preserve the Jewish history for the future generations”. Sarah left the store and her house to Thaha to carry on the traditions of the store, a museum and the synagogue. He continues to sell Sarah’s embroidery and also beautiful Judaica in a town with few Jews. Thankfully, visitor come to see the Synagogue and to meet Thaha. Of course, we purchased a beautiful kippah which Thaha explained to me was the design and colors of Kochin. I wore it that Shabbat evening as I led Services on the ship.
The fact that such a beautiful relationship could develop and survive between this Muslim family and Jewish family in India is a testament to what is possible.Read more
On the included Viking excursion, we went through the old Dutch palace.
The Mattancherry Palace situated at Mattancherry in Ernakulam district, was built by Portuguese in 1557 and presented to Raja Veera Kerala Varma of Kochi. The palace, also known as Dutch Palace, is one of the finest examples of the Kerala style of architecture interspersed with colonial influences. It came to be known as the Dutch Palace as it underwent major repairs at the hands of the Dutch. It is famous for its long and spacious halls along with its central courtyard. It is also the home of the deity of the royal family, Pazhayannur Bhagavathy (the deity of Pazhayannur). This double-storied palace has a lovely collection of murals. These depict some of the great Indian epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata along with revered Gods of the Hindu faith like Lord Krishna of Guruvayur temple. The mural paintings cover an area of almost 300 sq. km. One gets an idea of the lives of the royal family with some of the other exhibits.Read more
Cochin ( population of greater urban area 2.1 million) is a busy port in southern India on the Laccadive Sea. Instead of touring the city we chose to go to the backwaters that run through the rice fields. It gave us a contrast to the urban areas. There were very poor dwellings with people bathing and washing their clothes in the muddy river juxtaposed with developing luxury resorts.
A few extras: I was also able to see some new birds and learned this is where Darjeeling tea grows. The tea experts say that tea bags contain "dust tea"-- the tiny crumbs of tea leaves left over from processing--definitely inferior.Read more
NAMASTE – I bow down to the noble soul in you!
Kochi (used to be Cochin prior to 1996) is a major port city on the Malabar Coast of India part of the Arabian Sea. It has a population of 3.4 million and is 37 square miles. The state of Kerala (the wider area around Kochi) has 35 million people. Known as the “Queen of the Arabian Sea”, Kochi has always been a major spice trading port since the 14th Century.
In the 1300s Kochi began to be a significant Indian spice trading port. When the Portuguese came through the Indian Ocean and India in the late 15th century, the Portuguese navigator Pedro Álvares Cabral founded the first European settlement in Kochi in 1500. Vasco da Gama, discoverer of the sea route to India (1498), established the first Portuguese trading station there in 1502 (our guide explained how the spice trade was raided and tons of spice was brought back to Portugal), and the Portuguese viceroy Afonso de Albuquerque built the first European fort in India there in 1503. The city remained a Portuguese possession until it was conquered by the Dutch in 1663. Much Portuguese architecture still exists in the city. Under Dutch rule (1663–1795) Kochi grew as they were a shipping harbor for pepper, cardamom, and other spices and drugs as well as coir, coconut, and copra. British ruled over Kochi lasted from 1795 until 1947, when India became independent.
In 1947, when India gained independence from the British colonial rule, Cochin was the first princely state to join India willingly. The lowlands are still known for their spices due to the temperature, many (44) rivers and high humidity and the mountain areas for their tea.
It has been an important tourist destination from all over the world. We visited St Francis Church, the Mattancherry Palace, Fort Cochin, the Chinese Fishing Nets, a great walking tour of the area, a visit to Jew Town and then a relaxing ride on the back waters on a Kettuvallam.
St. Francis Church at Fort Cochin, which was built by the Portuguese in 1510, the first European church on Indian soil brought Christianity here. It was for a time the burial place of Vasco da Gama before his remains were taken to Portugal (there is still a grave here).
This was followed by a walking tour of the port area to see the houses that had Portuguese, Chinese, Dutch and English influence over the years. We learned about how the caste system is all but gone here with a strong affirmative action since the 1960s. We also heard a long story about the “family planning” that once when on here with mandated by marshal law vasectomies (need I say more). There is no homeless here (due to the established House of Samuel ministry) and most of the population is very educated (92% literacy) and study here and often go to work overseas. We saw the rain tree that is a Central American canopy tree that made its way here and is revered as it provides wonderful shade for the area. Its name comes from the fact that he leaves fold in rainy weather and in the evenings. We passed the Koder House, located in Cochin, is a testament to the rich Jewish heritage and culture that once thrived in Cochin. The Koder House was the residence of the Koders, which established electric in Kochi, was the Honorary Consul to the Netherlands, and he began the Cochin wing of the Free Masons) which has now been restored and turned into boutique hotel. This House had been a host to Presidents, Prime Ministers, Viceroys, Ambassadors and other prominent dignitaries.
One of the more interesting sights was the Chinese fishing nets. The cantilevered Chinese fishing nets along the waterfront are on poles that are operated from the shore using counterweights and ropes (see photos and video). The one strange sight was 2 big Steam Boilers that are displayed on the beach at the entrance to the harbor (see posting 3 of 3). These were gifts of Lord and Lady Willingdon to allow the harbor to be dredged and then become such a successful port. So, the boilers are a memory of that and named after them.
Then we went to the 16th Century Mattancherry Palace Museum also built by the Portuguese where we saw interesting woodwork (see the ceiling), furnishings, weapons and murals. It is in the same square as the Synagogue. Other churches as well as Hindu temples, mosques, and the historic synagogue at Mattancheri all still exist in this area. The population these days is approximately 55% Hindu, 20% Christian and 25% Muslim.Read more
Kettuvallam Boat Ride
We took a Kettuvallam, a houseboat, ride around the port area. These boats have thatched roof covers over wooden hulls. The history of these boats in Kerala goes back to Uru, a large Dhow-type wooden ship made by the carpenters in Beypore, south of Kozhikode port. The teak was taken from Nilambur teak forests in earlier times, but now imported Malaysian teak is used. It was a fun tour where we got to relax with drinks and snacks and see the fishing area and the commerce areas and how the harbor is utilized.
In April 2023, Kochi became India’s first city to have a water metro project. The Kochi Water Metro is the first water metro project in India and the first integrated water transport system of this size in Asia connects 10 islands of Kochi through a network of 15 routes that span 76 km and 38 jetties.
Note: there are two additional videos (parts 3 and 4) that continue from the last posting on Paradesi Synagogue.Read more
Die Fahrt mit der Metro macht eine Stadtbesichtigung des hektischen Stadtteils Ernakulan erträglicher. Es ist trotzdem anstrengend dort rumzulaufen. Interessant ist der Markt in Ernakulan, den es ab Herbst nicht mehr so gibt. Er weicht einem modernen Markt, wo die aktuellen Händler weiter verkaufen können.
Zwei letzte Bilder stammen von dem Ausblick meiner Unterkunft nähe Airport.Read more
India! Another bucket-list item checked off the list! Fascinating, majestic, hot, sensory-overload, noisy, ancient, big and sprawling, resource-full... a few words that come to mind...
Kochi is in the southern part of India. We took a mostly walking tour which started with St. Francis Church, built in 1503 by the Portuguese, The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama died in Kochi in 1524 when he was on his third visit to India. His body was originally buried in this church, but after fourteen years his remains were relocated to Lisbon. Today, an empty crypt in the church commemorates the explorer.
Nearby the church, we saw the huge cantilevered Chinese fishing nets that droop toward the beach waters like over-sized hammocks. The Chinese nets, made of teak wood and bamboo poles, work on the principle of balance. Each structure is fixed on the beach and has a cantilever with an attached net that is spread over a large area. Counterweight stones, tied to ropes of different lengths, facilitate the working of the nets. Each fishing net is operated by at least four fishermen. These nets are believed to have been introduced into Kochi by Chinese explorer Zheng He, from the court of the Kubla Khan, between 1350 and 1450 AD.
We also visited Mattencherry Palace, the Jewish synagogue and Jew Town, (home to only 2 Jews now). The synagogue is supported by and visited by Jews from all around the world. We browsed the shops in this quarter. The weather was very hot and humid.
The Mattancherry Palace features Kerala murals depicting portraits and exhibits of the Rajas of Kochi. The palace was built by the Portuguese Empire as a gift to the Kingdom of Cochin to appease the king after they plundered a nearby temple.
In the afternoon, we checked into the Cochin Marriott and immediately paid our retail respects to the adjacent Lulu International Mall, the largest mall in India. Cathy purchased four beautiful Kurtas (one of which Cathy wore to the Taj Mahal).
We returned to the hotel and we both had a 120-minute Aruyveda treatment (body scrub and body/face massage with oil). Awesome.Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Cherai
Traveler Jerome hast du gesehen ich einen Motorrad Parkplatz Reserviert 👍😎
Traveler War sehr schön und heisss