Italy
Giardino Torrigiani

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    • Day 10

      Prosecco and Vivo

      July 14, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

      We returned to our apartment and Brad and I had a quick glass of prosecco on the patio before we had to leave for dinner. We had to take a bus a good ways across town and then a quick 5 minute walk to the restaurant, Vivo.

      We arrived at 7:30 and a very kind server explained the menu to us in English. The menu changes every day based on what the fisherman catch so they don't have an English menu. There were three choices for antipasto, primi and secondi. We got three antipasti, three primi and shared a secondi.

      Our antipasto included a dish of squid tentacles with a tomato sauce; a bowl of mussels with fried bread cubes; a poke bowl with mackerel. They were all delicious and it worked out well that we all preferred so different.

      For primi we got a tagatelle with shrimp/lagostine like crustaceans (our server told us the name, but we'd never heard of it before); noodles with zucchini and shrimp; and risotto with spiky shelled snails. Again, everything was amazing, but Evan liked the tagatelle, Brad liked the risotto, and I liked the shrimp pasta best.

      Our shared secondi was a mixed fried seafood platter. There are no pictures because we dove in too quickly, but it was full of sea asparagus, squid, sardines, and shrimp - amazing!!

      I was totally stuffed by now, but Brad and Evan opted for dolci (dessert). Brad got a panna cotta with burnt caramel and Evan got a chocolate cake. Good thing we had a 40 minute walk home afterwards!
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    • Day 11

      Butter and Anchovy and Darts

      July 15, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Brad and I enjoyed the last of our prosecco before heading out for dinner. We had a reservation at Butter and Anchovy, named for a traditional Tuscan antipasto. Luckily, it was only a few minutes from our apartment.

      We started with the namesake dish of butter and anchovies. We were brought slices of slightly toasted bread with curls of butter and some anchovies in oil. Evan was not a fan, but Brad and I enjoyed the salty buttery taste!

      For our primi, we each got our own dish (although there was a lot of trying of each other's as always). Evan chose a gnocchi with a basil pesto and white fish; Brad had risotto with pieces of raw fish and shrimp; and I had spaghetti with anchovies. All the dishes were very good, but the real gem of the night was our secondi. We shared a platter of grilled mixed seafood, which included langoustine, shrimp, squid, and a firm white fish. We also got a side of fried zucchini blossoms, which were sweeter and meatier than expected- I'm not sure why we don't eat this in Canada because it's delicious! Anyway, the grilled seafood was truly outstanding!

      We shared the dolci course, which was a tiramisu. Evan claims he's never had it before, so I guess having your first taste of tiramisu in Italy sets the bar pretty high!

      The night was still young (in an Italian way) so we popped into a craft brew pub, Archea, for a quick pint. Evan noticed the darts machine and asked the woman behind the bar if he could play. He popped his money in and he and Brad played a round of darts. After a few darts crashing to the floor, he eventually got the hang of it and was disappointed when it was time to head home.

      We are off to Pisa in the morning! Hopefully the tower won't fall over before we arrive.
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    • Day 12

      Cena (Dinner)

      July 16, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      We arrived back in Florence at 7:15 and made a quick stop at CarreFour to get a bit more pecorino as Brad was going to make cacio e pepe at home for supper. It was a bit more labour intensive than we assumed, but it turned out very well! We were pretty hungry and so we devoured it quickly!

      Everyone is off to bed as we have to get up early in the morning to go on our Chianti wine tour!
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    • Day 14

      Uffizi, Duomo, more Gelato

      July 18, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

      We had a 9 am booking for the Uffizi Gallery this morning, so we were up early once again. We had to wait in one line to pick up our reserve tickets, then wait in another line to enter, and then another line to actually get into the Gallery. And this was with a reserved time slot! Anyway, we made it through all the lines and got in.

      It's always a bonus to have someone with you who has study art history. Brad was able to explain the importance of many pieces to us, and he directed us to the really significant pieces so that we didn't get art overload. We got to see pieces by Giotto, Botticelli, da Vinci, and Caravaggio. The real standouts were Botticelli's "Birth of Venus"; da Vinci's "The Annunciation"; and Caravaggio's "Head of Medusa." The Gallery itself was an interesting building as well. I had no idea it'd be around since the 1500s!

      We spent two hours at the Uffizi before finding our way out. It was lunch time, so we got out of the tourist area and went to a pizza and beer joint we'd passed earlier called Fermento. We got to sit outside under a canopy, which was quite lovely. We all got our own pizzas, which were made with a sourdough crust. Our big pizzas were maybe not the fuel we needed for our next activity, but they were certainly delicious!

      Our reserved time to climb the 436 stairs to the top of the Duomo's cupola was at 2 pm. We walked over and eventually found the line, which moved quickly. Then it was time to climb! They have warnings before you go up that you shouldn't climb the stairs if you're claustrophobic and once we got going, I understood why. The stairs were winding and became increasingly narrower as you went up. You couldn't even pass anyone until you came to an alcove! However, the climb was worth the incredible view at the top! You could see all of Florence! It was beautiful.

      We probably hung out at the top for about half an hour before making our way down. Going down was tough because the stairs were so steep. However, we did it and Evan was happy to be back on the ground! Before leaving the area, we went to check out The baptistery doors that were done in bronze by Giberti.

      After all that, it was time for a quick stop at Perche No? (Why Not?) which is a gelateria I had read about. Evan had coffee crunch and stracitella, I had chocolate and fresh mint, and Brad had almond and pistachio. It was a refreshing treat after a hot climb!
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    • Day 15

      Our Hood

      July 19, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

      It was our last night in Florence, so we decided to keep it local. We walked about a 100m to a restaurant that is on the Michelin Guide for 2017 called Alla Veccia Betolla. We pass it every day and every night, and in the evening it is always packed with people. So, it seemed like a sure bet.

      We went right at 7:30 because we didn't have a reservation. It is communal seating, and we were seated by a family of five from San Diego. They had just arrived in Florence via Rome. They were doing three weeks in Italy just like us!

      We ordered the primi course and each got our own pasta. Evan had lasagna, Brad had penne with a spicy tomato sauce, and I had a thin pasta with porcini mushrooms. Then we shared a secondi of veal steak and zucchini flowers. The steak was juicy and charred just right, and I've spoken previously about our love of fried zucchini flowers. The real bonus of the meal was the huge bottles of Chianti on the table. It was basically all you can drink house wine for 4€!

      The waiter didn't have to twist Evan's arm too hard to talk him into dolci. Evan got an apple tart (really a tart/ crepe hybrid) with vanilla gelato. I barely got a bite as I was chatting with the people from San Diego (who also ordered the tart after seeing ours). Luckily we had planned to go to the sorbettoeria just across the street.

      I'm not sure what the technical differences are between sorbet and gelato, but we had seen this sorbettoeria lined up most nights. Evan got the straticalla and caramel sorbet, while I got lemon-sage and ricotta with honey. I know those flavours sound bizarre, but they were delightfully refreshing! We ate our sorbet in the park while we watched a game of football (soccer). It was the perfect evening to cap off our time in Florence!
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    • Day 4

      La volte

      July 26, 2020 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Das Essen im "la Volte" war phänomenal! Es ist ein kleines Strassenrestaurant mitten in Florence. Wir hatten Glück und haben einen Tisch bekommen. Die Gnocci waren frisch zubereitet und das Ragu dazu perfekt. Das Filetsteak mit Rosmarinkartoffeln war perfekt.
      Die Deserts waren so lecker (Creme Brulee und Chantilly Creme mit Früchten auf selbstgemachten Keksen)
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    Giardino Torrigiani

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