Itália
Monterosso al Mare

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    • Dia 2

      #03 Cinque Terre - Malerisch und Touris

      25 de março, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Nach einem erholsamen Morgen in Bogliasco setzten wir unsere Reise fort und machten uns auf den Weg nach Cinque Terre, mit dem Ziel Vernazza. Ehrlich gesagt hatten wir die Strecke etwas unterschätzt, insbesondere die herausfordernden Serpentinen, die v.a. Lenas Puls auf Daueranschlag hielten. Und die Minutenangabe bei Google Maps wurde nur in 5-Minuten-Schritten weniger 😅
      Trotzdem waren wir voller Vorfreude auf die malerischen Dörfer, die uns erwarteten. Lena hatte einen Parkplatz oberhalb von Cinque Terre ausfindig gemacht, von dem aus wir in das Dorf wandern konnten. Unsere Fahrräder ließen wir vorerst stehen, um die Gegend zu Fuß zu erkunden. Während wir uns auf den Weg machten, beeindruckten uns die zahlreichen Fahrradfahrer, die sich durch die bergige Landschaft kämpften, und die vielen Menschen, die der Zug aus Levanto stündlich ausspuckte.

      Vernazza empfing uns mit malerischer Schönheit, obwohl wir überrascht waren, wie viele Menschen bereits vor Ostern die Gassen bevölkerten. Dennoch war schnell klar, warum die Cinque Terre weltberühmt sind – die einzigartige Atmosphäre, die charmanten Häuser an den Klippen und der malerische Hafen machen Vernazza und die vier anderen Orte in den Hügeln total sehenswert.
      Wir schlenderten durch die engen Gassen bis zum Hafen und erklommen dann die Burg, um von dort aus einen atemberaubenden Blick auf Vernazza und das Meer zu genießen.

      Zum Abschluss gönnten wir uns traditionelle Fischgerichte, wie gemischte frittierte Fische, bevor wir uns entschieden, dem touristischen Trubel zu entfliehen und weiter nach Vernaggio zu fahren. Dort verbrachten wir die Nacht an einem ruhigen Ort in einem Wohngebiet und freuten uns auf die kommenden Tage, die wir weniger fahrend, sondern mehr in der entspannten Atmosphäre der Toskana verbringen würden.
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    • Dia 23

      Day Twenty-Three: Cinque Terre

      7 de abril, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Today, we were off to one of the places I was most excited about, Cinque Terre! But even the drive down was pretty nice. We got to drive along the coast and see some water, towns, and fields. It was also weird how many tunnels we went through and how they were often houses and towns right above the tunnel, too. I wonder if your house would shake if a semi drove through. When we were finally in Italy, we had a 45-minute check stop, and it is completely different how you order food. Here, you pay for the pizza and coffee, and they give you a receipt, which u have to talk to different people, which give you the item you bought. So could I use the same receipt twice? But the pizza I got was a salami pizza (pepperoni), and it was some of the best pizza I ever had. The sauce was just fantastic with the crust. I was also very hungry, so that probably helped. Then, we trucked the rest of the way over to Cinque Terre. For this part, we were kind of left on our own. Bec gave us a train pass to jump between towns and sent us off with a meet-up point at 8:10 pm. Three other guys decided to join us, Kevin, Nathan, and Nick. We ended up sitting at the beach, drinking wine and cocktails for a while. And we went for a swim. It's weird because I feel the ocean doesn't smell salty here, but man, it tastes salty for sure. Luckily, why watch is water resistant because I totally forgot to take it off. It was nice to sit in the sun and relax with wine, but it did take up too much of our limited time here. So we went back to the train station to try and figure out how it worked so we could get to the next town. We finally figured it out to realize that at the end, we accidentally took an express train past all the islands. So, of course, we had to wait and take the next train back. There goes more precious time... but when we finally started walking around and it was such a cool place, super narrow alleyways, lots of stairs, and a beautiful ocean. We even walked up and found this mini castle ruins, which cost 2 euros to see. It was worth the cheap price. It had a fantastic view of the town and the surrounding area. Then, we skipped a town to jump to the one I was most excited about. And it was so beautiful just looking at this town on a cliff above the water. We all decided to get dinner somewhere, so we walked around trying to find a place to eat, and holy everywhere was so expensive. One place was selling the catch of the day for 70€... we managed to find one place that wasn't quite as expensive and walked in to find the whole travel group already eating there. What are the odds of that? But we all ordered some wine and some pesto pasta, which apparently was crested here! And it was delicious, I got ravioli. But it was still 15€ or something, and we got to protein, and the portion was a little small. But since we were so slow with the towns we did, we only got to see 3/5 towns... but that's OK, I had such a great experience in the ones I did go to, and it seems they are all quite similar. We arrived at the meet-up location early, and it seemed most people did too, but I went and bought water and went to the bathroom. I finished and came out before the time we were supposed to leave, but everyone was gone... I called Ethan, and he wasn't picking up. One of the other guys on the trip did text me and said he would send me his location ping. When I got it and looked, it was a 20-minute walk away. I was so confused about how they got so far away so fast, but I just started running. It was the most stressful run of my life because the ping he gave me was a couch parking lot. Our guide has been clear about leaving people behind if they take too long. So as I am running and getting close, I see our bus driving on the road, so I start waving freaking out about not being picked up. Luckily, he stopped, and I walked in to see a completely empty bus... I was early, and like 5 minutes early, too, as I saw the crowd walking over. Turns out he sent the end location and not where they were. So I freaked out for no reason. But me and Ethan did have a little heated talk afterward because we were both so stressed, but it was just in the moment. Turns out he forgot to activate his new esim so he didn't have internet and that's why he didn't pick up. But it is what it is. Everything worked out. It was a long bus ride back to the hotel, an extra hour, 40 minutes. And it was a tough ride because it's when our sickness really hit us out of nowhere. Ethan was having it a lot harder than me for sure. But I was miserable. So we finally get there, and I am so ready just to lay down and sleep it off to find out we went to the wrong location... and the one we need to go to is another hour, 40 minutes drive away... so you can say we had a shitty ass night being sick ass fuck in a couch that we shouldn't be in. But that's OK, we made it to the hostel and I crashed hard.Leia mais

    • Dia 12

      Entdeckungstour durch die Cinque Terre

      11 de maio de 2023, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Ein absolutes Highlight mit Postkartenmotiven stand heute auf dem Plan. Von unserem Stellplatz dauerte es nur 5 Minuten mit dem Shuttle in das erste von fünf Dörfern der Cinque Terre - Monterosso. Wir sind früh los und konnten die traumhafte Kulisse während des Frühstücks auf uns wirken lassen, bevor wir mit der Fähre nach Manarola gefahren sind. Später haben wir den Zug nach
      Vernazza genommen und da das Wetter mitspielte, beschlossen wir spontan den Wanderweg zurück nach Monterosso zu nehmen. Die Jeans erwiesen sich als falsche Wahl für den Tag, denn der sogenannte "Blaue Weg" hat es in sich. Wir liefen ca. 2 Stunden auf und ab und bewunderten dabei die faszinierenden Aussichten- seht selbst.
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    • Dia 10

      Day in Cinque Terre

      14 de setembro de 2023, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Along with about a million of our closest friends, we spent the day hopping on and off boats to go into some of the little villages that have become tourist magnets. We are tourists and we are magnetized, so how can we complain. The owner of our B&B told us in no uncertain terms that we should chuck our plan of taking the train and stick to the ferry. I was dubious, but followed her advice. She was absolutely right. Entering these villages from the water is so much more beautiful than going through a tunnel to town from the train station. Only one of our boat rides was what I would call crowded, though they all had a good number of passengers. Based on what some people at lunch told us, the trains were being used by big tour groups (only saw one on all our boat rides) and that makes things more difficult.

      We bought a day pass and started out on the 9:30 ferry. We spent about an hour and a half in each town, so Joe could have a gelato and I could climb the local castle or hoof it up to the overlook. We did stay several hours in Manarola, where we had a long and excellent lunch of mussels and some exceptional white anchovies, which I haven’t had in a long time (boquerones in Spain). The towns are all very picturesque, but seem to be totally dedicated to the tourist business. There are vineyards nearby, so someone is making a living doing something other than selling gelato and boat tickets!

      People were all extremely patient and helpful when Joe needed extra hands to navigate some especially unfriendly steps or ramps. No jostling or pushing either. I am glad we came, but I don’t think I would come back, unless it was in the dead of winter. I’m sure I’d love walking the trail, but I think I’m too hooked on the Camino to make a switch to Italy.
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    • Dia 9

      Travel Day

      13 de setembro de 2023, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      We left Florence and headed to Cinque Terre by train. I had planned the trip to be as stress-free as possible. Late departure (12:30), 15 minute connection time in Pisa, arrival in Monterosso around 3. I would definitely not want to do this with anything other than carry-ons. Flights of stairs to make connections and no elevator in sight.

      We saw some rocky mountains and Google maps told me it was the Apuan Alps. I saw something that looked like mining, and before I could wonder too much, I saw the name of the town we were passing!

      The owner of our B&B in Monterosso met us at the station to walk with us there. It’s in the historic center, the home where she was born. Very charming. La Poesia.

      Joe took a nap and I followed the walking path out of town for 40 minutes out and then back. Got some pretty good elevation in! I won’t be able to do any of the village to village walks, but I plan to do a bunch of out and back walks when Joe is resting. It’s a beautiful setting and the temperature is great. Crowded, but no surprise there.

      We’re at a very cute tapas place for a light supper. Good restaurants all fill up, so I’ve already made reservations for our next two nights!
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    • Dia 3–5

      Etappe Levanto Monterosso

      13 de novembro de 2023, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Die erste Etappe der Küstentour sind wir von Levanto - nach einer Stunde Zugfahrt raus aus der Stadt am Meer entlang - in das nördlichste Dorf der Cinque Terre, Monterosso, gewandert. Links das Meer, rechts Berge mit Oliven- und Erdbeerbäumen. Über Stock und Stein führte der Weg malerisch oberhalb der Küste entlang, manchmal nach unserem Geschmack zu viel bergauf. Aber die Panoramablicke waren jeden Schritt aufwärts am Ende doch wert. Nach knapp 4 Stunden kamen wir in Monterosso an, pünktlich zur Dämmerung. Und als Belohnung am Abend haben wir uns gleich in der Trattoria direkt neben unserer Unterkunft ein ausgiebiges Abendessen gegönnt. Morgen haben wir Zeit, das Dorf zu erkunden.Leia mais

    • Dia 11

      Day on the Water

      15 de setembro de 2023, Itália ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      I was wrong about two things - one, I was afraid that we would have had so much ferry time yesterday that today’s boat trip would not be so fun. And two, I said I wouldn’t want to come back here. Going slowly up and down the coast was really great! And I got a much better view of the trails I could walk if I were to return. So maybe I shouldn’t say never, because they look fabuloso.

      I am so glad I booked this boat trip weeks ago, because a couple in our B&B was very disappointed they couldn’t get anything for the next four days. It was a bit pricey, but oh so worth it. The views of the villages were amazing, the water was super clear and warm, and I even got to swim near a huge jelly-fish, but only after I was assured that this one wouldn’t sting. One of the young guys on our boat (there were 12 of us total) picked it up, but no way I was interested in that.

      Joe did not get off the boat to swim, but had a seat in the shade and did not mind sitting there doing nothing for our swim time (or at least that’s what he said). After swimming they served us a very nice spread of tapas type food (each one made locally and with an explanation of what it was and who made it!) with some prosecco to accompany it.

      The weather looks like it’s turning, and our boat company has already cancelled the trips for the next three days, not only because of thunderstorms but also because the water will be quite choppy and this little boat can’t take too many waves. We have been quite lucky!

      I did some up and down walking on the trail and saw the bunker we had seen from the boat. The Nazis occupied the town for three years and there were many bombardments. It’s so sobering to see a reminder of how horrible things were years ago.

      One last dinner will be in another highly rated place, which I was able to reserve on Wednesday when we got here. If it’s anything like last night’s meal in Osteria (caprese salad, seafood ravioli for Joe and pesto for me), we will be well fed!
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    • Dia 26

      26ème étape ~ Cinque Terre

      28 de agosto de 2022, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Visite des Cinque Terre pour les aventuriers.
      Nous laissons le camping-car à La Spezia et prenons le train jusqu’à Monterosso. Après une petite visite de la ville, nous marchons jusqu’à Vernazza. 1h15, 3km6 sur des chemins bien ardus.
      Après un dîner, nous prenons le train pour Rimaggiore, puis Manarola, et Cornglia pour finir.
      Nous n’avons pas pu faire les sentiers entre les 3 derniers villages car il y a eu un éboulement. 😢
      Nous avons adoré la vue des villages et les couleurs des maisons 🥰
      Petite Moralité : les italiens aiment beaucoup trop les escaliers 😅
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    • Dia 17

      Cinque Terre

      7 de abril, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Today, we hopped on the coach leaving the French coast and into Italy! We stopped at a checkpoint on the highway and had my first pizza in Italy. The way you order here is unorganized chaos. It's kinda like a bar. If you force your way up, the bartender has no clue you just showed up, so they take your order. I ordered a slice of pizza and an Americano. After I paid, they gave me 2 different receipts, one for the coffee and one for the pizza. You then have to force your way to the till and hand the guy warming pizzas your pizza receipt. Once you get that, you go to the other side of the restaurant and give the guy making coffee your coffee receipt. I'm not a huge fan of this system. It's so hectic when it doesn't have to be. Apparently, it was just a small one for us to practice at as well, so we're gonna have a more hectic one soon. We had 45 minutes here, and then we got back on the coach for another 3.5 hours. At least it's a beautiful drive, but stressful. I don't know how our driver, Paulo, does it. We were driving down a mountain with one-way traffic in this giant bus. He obviously has to honk around blind corners, but some people do not care. He honks to let people know, and all of a sudden, a dude on a motorcycle rips around the corner. He's like less than a foot from our bus and a foot from the gaurd rail on the side of a mountain. Doesn't seem like the brightest idea I don't know. Paulo is so calm when everyone else on the bus is stressing. Ice in his veins. We finally got to cinque Terre after 5 hours of driving. We were told we have 6.5 hours to explore all 5 towns. It's kind of a shitty ratio, but oh well. Our tour guide told us the trains in between the 5 towns are very easy to use. She told us you just use the same train everytime, same side of the tracks every time. Gave us our all day train passes and told us to explore. In the first town we went to, we sat on the beach in our trunks, sharing a liter of wine with 3 other guys. That wasn't enough, so we ordered 2 cocktail "buckets." They actually tasted really good. One of the guys we were chilling with is a fire fighter from New York, and every new years he does a polar plunge, so he had no problem with the cold ass water Pearse and Nick jumped in too. Again, I'm a baby and just went out to mid thigh. Once the fellas got out, Nick tackled me into the water, and we went for a quick swim. I couldn't let Pearse go back without me tackling him too lol. The drinks and the sun were feeling really good for everyone. Then we looked at the time and realized we spent a little too much time at the first town and we should hop on the train to the next one. Pearse and I were going to hike between a set of the towns, but we didn't leave ourselves enough time, unfortunately. We were joking around about how Becks was telling us the trains are the easiest trains ever, and the only thing to remember is to not hop on the express train. The express train only goes from town 1 to 5. You alreasy know what we did. The first train we hop on is the express and end up at our final town. We finally figured out the train and got on the proper train, but now we had to do 3/5 of the stops to get to the second town. Long story short, we wasted a lot of time lol. The second town had a small castle and lookout point at the top. It was absolutely beautiful. Overlooking the ocean and the hills behind us, but we had to get a move on because it was already almost 5. We still had to eat and visit 3 more towns. The group made a business decision to skip on the next town because we didn't have time to do everything now. So we got back on the proper train and skipped a stop then got off at the 4th town. This one was probably my favorite. The buildings were so colorful and vibrant sitting on the edge of the hills. I think it's beautiful but I have no idea why anyone would live here. Only tourists and so many stairs everywhere. I feel like if you're living here, you're probably retired. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't know too many retired people excited about stairs. Anyways, we were told we have to eat before leaving Cinque Terre because everything around our hotel will be closed. That's not a typo. We're sleeping in a hotel tonight! So we climbed all the stairs to the top of the hill to sit at the restaurant way at the top. Once we got there, we saw there was a huge line to get a seat, and we weren't about to waste more time. We finally found a restaurant that wasn't insanely expensive. We walked in, and almost pur whole contiki group was dinning together. That's okay. I don't want to eat with most of them anyways lol. The 5 of us went to the second floor of the restaurant and began looking. The prices for a liter of wine were too good not to get 2 lol. The area of Italy that were in is known for pesto! So I had to order some speggahti pesto. Don't get me wrong, it was delicious, but I prefer my mom's homemade pesto. Maybe that's because I had it lots back in the day, but it just wasn't the same. After dinner, we got back on the train to the last town, also the meetup spot for everyone. We had to be back on the bus at 8. After yesterday, we got to know Becks and Paulo dont care if you're late, they will leave you anywhere. We were told everything was closed around our hotel so the five of us were going to bring some wine and beers back with us to our rooms. As the first of us entered the store, Becks yelled from behind us "no boose at the hotel boys" how the fuck did she know lol. Pearse went in to go to the bathroom before we got back on the coach. I waited and waited for him to come back. Then Becks said we have to go, so can you please text him. The problem is I did, and called him and sent him my live location on what's app. I hadn't had reception since we entered Italy, though. So I ran up to one of the guys we were with all day and frantically told him to text Pearse. we are leaving and to hurry up. He texted called and sent Pearse his live location as well. It was about a 10 minute walk from the meet up spot to where the coach was at. I walked as slow as I could, constantly staring down the street, hoping to see his dumb ass come flying around the corner in a full sprint. He wasn't there though when I got to the bus. I love the guy, but I'm not getting left in some town. I walk on the bus, and Becks says to me "some how he was the first person on the bus." I look at our seats, and sure as shit he's there dripping in sweat. There was a bit of confusion between us. He was pissed off that I didn't text him or call him. What he didn't know is I was trying so hard, but I had no reception. Whatever we both made the bus, that's what matters. We found out we had almost a 3 hour bus ride to the hotel, which really sucks because Pearse and I got so sick at the same time. He was leaking like a faucet with a cough, and I had a fever with the shakes. After the second worst drive of my life, we finally got to the hotel. So tired and ready for bed everybody's grabbing their things. Becks stood up at the front of the bus and said, "Um guys, we've never had this problem before. We are at the wrong hotel." Origanlly we were supposed to stay at a hotel not far from where cinque Terre is, but they moved us to this hotel halfway across Italy, WITHOUT TELLING THE OTHER HOTEL. I'm not being dramatic about halfway across Italy. You can see it on the map of my trip. We had time to empty our bladders on the side of the road and get back on the coach to go back the exact way we came from. This was the worst drive of my life. My backpack is in the storage underneath the bus, so I couldn't grab my hoodie or anything, and my fever made me so cold. I couldn't stop shaking and sweating at the same time. My skin and muscles hurt, too. Towards the end of the drive, my guts started turning on me. I was gassing the bus with the worst farts of all time. I felt bad for Pearse cause he also had to sleep in the same room as me lol. Today was a good day, but I'm glad it's over.Leia mais

    • Dia 4

      Tag 3 | Cinque Terre-Wanderung

      3 de julho de 2023, Itália ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Wanderung Monterosso nach Corniglia 🗺️

      Die Wanderung beginnt am Bahnhof von Monterosso. Erste Station nach ca. 1,5h: Vernazza mit Focaccia-Stopp. Zweite Station nach wieder ca. 1,5h: Corniglia. Hier gibt es bei der Gelateria Alberto wohl das beste Eis der Cinque Terre (Miele di Corniglia kann ich empfehlen, diese Sorte ist aus dem regionalen Honig hergestellt worden).
      Auf dem Weg habe ich eine Australierin getroffen, mit der ich den Rest der Wanderung verbracht und dabei einiges über Australien gelernt habe :).

      Leider ist der Weg von Corniglia zu den letzten zwei Dörfern Manarola und Riomaggiore gesperrt; hier ist jedoch für hoch Motivierte ein Höhenweg verfügbar (Schwierigkeit: mittel).

      Die Dörfer sind übrigens von Levanto bis La Spezia auch mit einem Zug verbunden, der im 20-minütigen Takt verkehrt.
      So anstrengend die Wanderung ist, so schön und lohnenswert ist die Aussicht! Völlig verständlich, dass hierfür also jährlich Millionen Menschen anreisen. Ein wahres Highlight. Übrigens wohl auch für nicht geübte Wanderinnen und Wanderer machbar.
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