Italy
Museum "E. Greco" - Orvieto

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    • Day 4

      More wandering in Orvieto

      April 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      After lunch, I made my way back to the hotel for a recharge. For me and my phone. It was the lowest my battery has gotten...maybe ever. I napped for a bit, then tried to figure out what to do. I had seen everything that I could on my city pass. I walked around and finally wound up at the same place I had the spritz before.

      Like everything else, it was crowded. I went in and was told to go outside. I had a spritz and met a couple from Sacramento. We were discussing Italian phrases and I mentioned to the server, who was there, that I said, "grazie," and he said, "you're welcome." I said that no one wants to hear my sorry-ass Italian, and he agreed. Ouch. I did laugh and at least I have confirmation!

      I came back briefly to change for dinner. I decided to try the place I looked at the night before. I got there and they were empty, and full. At least where I was concerned. Who knows, maybe they had reservations. But I'd like to have came back with someone else and tried. So I went to the place close to the hotel. They seated me at a table in the doorway. I had a 1/2 liter of wine, umbriacelli with truffle sauce, and pork. They brought me potatoes that I didn't order. Overall the service was awful.

      I walked towards the duomo and got my gelato. Chocolate and Crema. It was good and I was very full! Time for bed.

      Tomorrow...Rome!
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    • Day 18

      Orvieto

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      Orvieto is a small city stop an outcrop of volcanic tuff with near vertical cliffs all around. This has been a city since at least Etruscan times and was actually an Etruscan acropolis.
      It has been an important city for centuries. It's near impregnable, fortress like setting and its location over the main Rome to Florence road has contributed to the city's wealth and the influence. In fact, this is 1 of only 2 cities outside of Rome to have a papal palace. This is shown in the last picture, though it's now a museum.
      The city today is essentially medieval in character as I think you'll be able to see in the pictures.
      The 1st picture looks from above at what people approaching had to see: the cliffs upon which the city is built. The 2nd picture looks down on 1 of the city gates located below the top of the cliffs. This is the Porta Romana.
      The 3rd picture looks into the Republic Square with a small market set up in the square. Immediately to the left in the square is St. Andrew's Church with it's octagonal bell tower shown in the 4th picture.
      The 5th picture is the oldest church in the city, San Giovenale, that dates to 1004. It is said to have original frescoes but wasn't open.
      The 6th picture is a typical street in Orvieto, and the 7th looks over a portion of the city from atop the Torre del Moro. The cathedral (see another post) is to the right.
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    • Day 18

      Orvieto Cathedral

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (The Assumption of Mary) dates to the 14th century. The facade in the 1st picture is considered a masterpiece of design. With mosaics, bas relief, rose window and more. These works have been redone and completed over the centuries to arrive at its current configuration.
      The 2nd picture looks down the length of the ornate nave. Notice the black and white stripes. These are alternating layers of travertine marble and basalt that are used throughout the building.
      Near the entrance is the large marble baptismal font in the 3rd picture. Near the font is one of the few ancient frescoes not affected by later alterations. The 4th picture show an example of frescoes uncovered after those alterations were undone.
      The 5th picture is a closer look at the apse. The stained glass and the frescoes all date to the 14th century. The frescoes, though a bit damaged, have been occasionally restored over the centuries.
      The last 3 pictures are in the New Chapel of San Brizio. All the surfaces are frescoes, most by Signorelli.
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    • Day 18

      Orvieto Underground

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The ground under Orvieto has been described as a honeycomb of caves, all of which are manmade. Most of them, in fact, are privately owned and serve as cellars. Only a small area of 2 caves is open to the public.
      The 1st picture is in a section of cave that had been adapted to be operated as an olive oil mill. I'm told it was active through most of the 19th century. Because the temperature in the caves was pretty consistent year round, they could store the olives longer after the harvest and could work year round. The 2nd picture is still oni the oil mill, showing some mill stones and other equipment.
      The 3rd picture is simply a look at a section of cave. Marks of picks and chisels are visible.
      The 4th picture is a well. Sitting on top of the volcanic plug, Orvieto has no surface water. So, especially if under siege, having access to water was critical. These hand dug wells were built using steps carved in the walls that you can make out in the picture. The workers straddled the excavation, digging down and adding steps as they went. It could be 100 meters straight down to reach water.
      The last picture is of a typical use for caves around the edges of the cliff: a dove cote or set of pigeon holes. Pigeon was and still is a typical dish here. Raising these birds was very lucrative as they could reproduce monthly and the birds could feed themselves by a exiting for the day to feed and bring home food for chicks. So, once the dove cote was built, there was essentially no overhead.
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