Italy
Porlezza

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    • Day 5

      Day 5 - Lake Como

      June 5 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Woke up to gorgeous sunshine around 8.00am and a heron observing proceedings from the top of a tree. I cracked on with my domestic duties of hanging up our damp clothes, getting the coffee on and running to the shop for a couple of plain croissants for breakfast. I showered and waited another hour for Jackie to return from the shower block - nearly ready for the day.

      It was not too long after 10.30pm, that we drove out of the campsite and headed to Menaggio with the intention of catching a ferry across Lake Como to Varenna, which is famous for it’s olive oil. The plan was then to get a 2nd ferry to Bellagio, an apparently beautiful little town on a peninsula on Lake Como, then get the ferry back to Menaggio.

      We drove past little Lake Piano, which was behind us in a flash, then we wound our way down to the ferry port in Varenna. It was heaving with tourists and despite our best efforts we could not find a single parking place. I was going to blame Jackie for taking so long to get ready but I tactically didn’t!

      Instead, we decided to drive down to the town of Como and back along the western shore of Lake Como, then try again to find a parking place and catch a ferry. We headed south to the town of Griante, where we espied another ferry terminal called Caddenabbia and a pretty much empty car park beside it. We paid €3 for 3 hours parking and bought 2 return ferry tickets to Bellagio for €18.

      Half an hour later we were cruising across Lake Como on our 20 minute ferry crossing. When we arrived in Bellagio it was busy with tourists, but also smacked of money. After disembarkation, we strolled up and down a flowery promenade, then headed past the exceptionally expensive looking restaurants and hotels to the very end of the peninsula. We espied a suitable unobtrusive bar for a beer & sat down at a nice table. Unfortunately, or as it turned out luckily, there was only one waiter and after 15 minutes we still hadn’t placed our order for an overpriced beer, so we abandoned ship.

      After meandering around the backstreets of Bellagio, we dropped back down to the port and an half an hour later we were on the ferry heading back to Caddenabbia. We returned to the car and headed south hoping to find somewhere less busy (and expensive!) for a beer. Literally minutes later we found that place, Bar Roma, in Tremezzo.

      Bar Roma had an outdoor seating area overlooking Lake Como with an extremely attractive vista. We ordered 2 large beers and the waitress talked us into ordering their homemade local pasta dish. We didn’t even know what it was other than it was some sort of buckwheat pasta, mushrooms and cheese. It came with a bowl of bite sized chunks of bread and the beers arrived with a huge bowl of crisps. It was a pleasant lunch hour.

      We drove on down south along the western shore of the lake to the town of Como. The road was narrow, often reduced to just enough room for one vehicle at a time. Fortunately the road wasn’t too busy, but I dread to think what it would be like in the height of summer. The road provided a lovely drive with lots of picturesque churches and villas overlooking the lake.

      We parked up near Como’s impressive Cathedral. We had a quick run around the heaving town and popped inside the Cathedral. Como was architecturally attractive in the tourist areas around the cathedral, but it did have quite a few homeless people and beggars. We didn’t stay too long.

      We then selected a non toll road and non motorway route back to Camping Darna. Just outside of Como, we re-entered Switzerland, then embarked on a hideously steep and windy road that was made worse by its narrowness. Jackie was a nervous wreck, to the point of having an anxiety attack, as we squeezed past oncoming traffic. By strange coincidence and right on cue, my Spotify playlist started playing a song by Hurt which had the lyrics “We’re all going to die. We’re all going to die”. This really helped!

      Eventually we reached the summit and entered back into Italy. We were amazed to discover that there was a golf course, Golf Club Lanza, no distance from the summit. We careered back down the mountain with clenched buttocks as we squeezed past more traffic to Lake Lugano. We continued on to the Carrefour Supermarket in Porlezza, where we purchased all the necessary ingredients for a Chilli con carne, salad & another 5 litres of white wine.

      Back at camp Jackie cooked up the Chilli con carne, with considerable assistance from me by regularly stirring the pot. I also wrote my blog and chatted to Marco, our Dutch neighbour. We had a pleasant evening with G&Ts followed by red and white wine. The chilli was as expected delicious. I was even allowed 4 chocolate biscuits for dessert, after Jackie had had a bite out of each.

      The weather today had been a sunny 27 & 28 degrees around Lake Como and we were treated to a lovely dry balmy evening back at the campsite for our alfresco dinner.

      Song of the Day - That (Such A Thing) by Hurt.
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    • Day 3

      Day 3 - Moderate……..My Arse!

      June 3 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      We both slept well as we usually do in our tent, despite it raining for most of the night. We surfaced around 8.00am to discover a lovely sunny morning in Camping Darna. We faffed around as most campers do, with several coffees and a trip to the shop for breakfast supplies. We bought 4 rolls, Gouda slices, salami and butter.

      More faffing was done throughout the morning whilst we got ourselves properly sorted out. Initial impressions of the campsite are fantastic. It has everything we want and need. The staff are so polite and friendly, as are the other campers who all say hello with a smile. The view of Lake Lugano from the shoreline of our campsite is spectacular.

      After breakfast, around midday, we ventured out of the campsite for a planned 5.1 mile walk. This was after embarrassingly demolishing the bushes as I tried to reverse back out of our parking spot.

      We parked up in Porlezza & started my AllTrails App which was going to direct us on a 5.1 mile hike described as ‘Moderate’ difficulty. We set off along the shore of Lake Lugano, then headed inland before heading into Porlezza and up the mountain beyond. It started off nice and gently, but soon got steeper and steeper on rough tracks through the forested mountain.

      Halfway up the mountain we took a scheduled detour to Began Waterfall, which was pretty spectacular in that it cascaded down to a sun drenched pool. We were the only 2 people at this beauty spot, which made it even more special.

      It was after the waterfall that the trail got steeper to the point that we were scrambling up the path often on all fours. The occasional F word started to be heard behind me but before long the F word and every other expletive imaginable had increased in frequency to constant.

      We were looking forward to the downhill section but when it came, as most mountaineering people will know, it was worse. In fact it wasn’t just worse, it was horrendous. The path down was exceptionally steep either covered with loose rocks or on a concrete track with marble like stones scattered across it. We slip slided our way cautiously down with our toes jammed back into our feet. We skidded many times, but miraculously neither of us actually fell over.

      When we finally reached flat ground it was a massive relief. We hobbled back to the lake shore and walked along until we found a lovely lakeside cafe with a table in the sun calling our name. We ordered 2 large beers that were clearly going to be expensive, but even I didn’t care what they cost. Two beautiful well earned beers arrived along with a bowl of nibbles, so we sat back and enjoyed the view.

      My AllTrails app told me that we had walked a distance of 6.07miles (not 5.1), with an elevation gain of 1,604 ft, a moving time of 3 hours 42 minutes, 2,373 calories burnt and a total time 3 hours 59 minutes.

      We ordered a 2nd beer each. Sod the expense!! We basked in the sun for at least an hour until we decided it was time to head back to camp for a shower. I suddenly got all nervous about how much our beers were going to cost so I asked Jackie to pay and not tell me how much it cost. As it turned out, they cost just €20, an absolute bargain for the view and ambience.

      We returned back to camp and were greeted by our Dutch neighbours, who fancied a chat. We discovered that this was their second visit to the campsite and they were staying 3 weeks. They also very helpfully gave us some recommendations of things to do and see and where to eat.

      After a shower and a couple of gin and tonics, we returned to the campsite restaurant for more Sexy pizza. I also ordered a tomato and garlic pizza, which was too tomatoey! We will stick to just the one pizza in future.

      By 10pm we were both dead to the world in our tent.

      Song of the Day - Slip Slidin’ Away by Paul Simon.
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    • Day 6

      Porlezza am Luganosee

      July 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Auf Anhieb finden wir einen schönen Platz nahe am Luganosee neben einer Bachmündung.
      Herrlich warmes Wasser paddeln und den Tag genießen.
      Um 15 h erwischt uns ein Gewitterregen am See bei. Paddeln im warmen Regen in Badekleidung, war eine neue Erfahrung.
      Am Abend bummeln wir noch durch den kleinen ruhigen Ort.
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    • Day 7

      Day 7 - A Headless Turtle in Lake Lugano

      June 7 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Well after smugly declaring that we sleep better in our tent, we totally disproved that theory by both waking up at 3am and not properly getting back to sleep again. We eventually got up at 8.30am to discover it was another gloriously sunny morning.

      I made the coffees, whilst Jackie set about the domestic chores for a change! She washed our dirty laundry and made us a healthy breakfast of fruit and yoghurt. Once the washing had been hung out to dry, we headed to our spot on the beach.

      After settling down in our chairs, I contemplated what breed the black diving birds were that I have previously referred to as Shags. After googling it, I lost the will to live and I am still not much wiser, but my best guess is that they are Great Cormorants.

      We spent the remainder of the morning observing life on Lake Lugano through our binoculars. We also discussed our onward plans in Sardinia and I think Jackie has come round to the idea of camping for the majority of the time in Sardinia rather than being holed up in an expensive apartment.

      We had a liquid lunch of flasks of white wine on the beach, when the sound of silence was disturbed by a paraglider who circled overhead and managed to land on our beach and stop just before careering into us. He told us that he had taken off from the highest mountain, Monte di Tremezzo, between Lakes Lugano and Como.

      After lunch we had the misfortune to see a headless turtle float past the shoreline in front of us. Not a pretty sight.

      We sat and dozed on the beach in the sun until just after 6pm, when we packed up and got ready for a night out on the town.

      We walked back to the Millennium Bug restaurant, after stopping at the little church which on this occasion was locked. I had the Gnocchi allez Chef and Jackie had the Tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms. Both were simple dishes, but extremely tasty. Just like mama used to make!

      The walk home was dry and we had a quick nightcap before yet another early night.

      Song of the Day - Sound of Silence by Disturbed.
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    • Day 6

      Day 6 - A Turtle’s Head in Lake Lugano

      June 6 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      We definitely sleep better in the fresh air. I had a good 8 hours and Jackie had more than 10. Yet again I was on domestic duties making the coffees etc in the glorious sunshine. After breakfast and showers we headed out of camp around 10.30am.

      Today’s plan was to have an easy walk to the L’Orrido Val Sanagra. It was a hike on the website of our fantastic campsite that had been also highly recommended by Marco, our Dutch neighbour.

      We drove the 6 miles to the starting point, a free car park in Codogna-Cardano. The website described it as a 3km walk. It wasn’t. We walked through the village then headed down into Val Senagra Park with a raging cascading river at the bottom. We crossed the river and hiked along the path that followed the river, the Fiume Senagra, along the steep bank. When we arrived at an overhanging rock face, a long, narrow suspended metal walkway allowed us to continue. In places, it was particularly low, requiring a person of normal height (5’8”+) to have to bend down or lean out over the railing.

      Jackie and I have been on some incredibly scenic walks around the world and without a doubt this walk was right up there with them. The dramatic scenery was just awe inspiring. It felt like we were in some lost or undiscovered world (apart from the half dozen dog walkers who came past the other way).

      After a 2km plus hike through the the valley, we arrived at the derelict Galli Furnace where bricks and roof tiles used to be made. After I had fallen down a grassy slope in search of the perfect photograph, we about turned. Half way back we took a diversion onto a cycle path that was a shortcut back to the car. It was pretty much the perfect walk. Hopefully my photos do it justice!!

      We drove back to Porlezza and stopped in a huge supermarket, where we purchased fruit, yoghurt, orange juice, balsamic vinegar, more tonic waters and bread rolls. We then parked up in town and walked to our favourite little cafe. We had a couple of beers each in the sun and agreed that its location and ambience was hard to beat.

      Whilst enjoying our afternoon refreshments, I ESPIED a turtle’s head (as evidenced with my prize winning wildlife photograph). To make sure I wasn’t going delirious, I googled Turtles in Lake Lugano & it confirmed there were turtles in the lake. I did also notice that in 2007, Lake Lugano was deemed to have the most polluted water. I didn’t want to know any more and I didn’t mention it to Jackie. I also read that the surface level of Lake Lugano is 271 metres above sea level.

      We returned to camp, donned our swimming gear and went for the swim in Lake Lugano that we had promised ourselves. The water was surprisingly warm and I reminded myself that I shouldn’t drink any, just as Jackie re-surfaced spitting water everywhere. After our swim, we set down our chairs on the shingle beach and supped glasses of white wine, whilst wallowing in the late afternoon sun.

      Around 6pm, we returned to our tent and cooked up the remainder of the Chilli con carne, which we had with salad and Jackie’s amazing homemade garlic bread. We had several G&Ts and just chilled around camp before another early night.

      Song of the Day - The Walk by The Cure.
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    • Day 4

      Day 4 - Giving The Fat Frog A Kicking

      June 4 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      No, I’m not talking about you Andy.

      I woke at 6.00am, but Jackie slept through until 8.00am, when we both got up. I don’t know what came all over me, but I erected the washing line, hung out the damp jackets, went to the shop for breakfast croissants, then did the washing up. Camping brings out the domestic goddess in me.

      Jackie had decided we weren’t going to do anything today, but chill out. Apparently it wasn’t because she was still knackered from yesterday’s hike!

      The weather was a mixed bag, mainly sunshine, but clouds came over every time I took my camera out. We took a gentle stroll around our fantastic campsite & discovered it was much bigger than we thought. It also had a lot of empty pitches, where you could camp without having any neighbours. We are however still more than happy with our pitch. We also discovered that there was a large dog walking/toilet at the end of the campsite and even a dog shower (Loup would have loved it).

      After a couple of wines to steady her hand, Jackie set about cutting my hair with my electric clippers. I think she did a reasonable job. After my second shower of the day, we had lunch of salami, cheese and crisps with a couple of wines.

      The remainder of the afternoon was spent sunbathing, reading my book and we were entertained by another Dutch couple who had just arrived. We first saw them as the husband was pushing his wife around in a wheelchair, like Lou and Andy from Little Britain. For half an hour she was ordering him to push her back and forwards and round and round as she assessed which pitch to take. We were praying they wouldn’t take the pitch immediately in our eyeline.

      Of course they did. A short while later he reversed their caravan into the pitch we didn’t want them to take and hilariously the wife suddenly appeared running around like a spring chicken as she directed him back. After unhooking the caravan, the husband spent another 30 minutes plus, with his remote control manoeuvring their caravan to the exact position his wife, who was still standing, wanted it to be in. We had our tent erected in pretty much the same time. For the next 3 hours he erected his awning, filled the water tank and god knows what else. I never knew there was so much to do with a caravan.

      We have vowed that we will swim in Lake Lugano before we leave. With the sun beating down, I ventured down to the lake to make an assessment, but Sod’s Law it clouded over the moment I reached the lake, which made the thought of swimming very unappealing.

      At 5.25pm, after a 55 minute rain delay, England kicked off their T20 cricket match against Scotland, which I listened to on my iPad. I was happy as Larry until Jackie drew my attention to an email from a dentist who is due to make an assessment on repairing her wisdom tooth. Apparently it is complicated and they have listed the work just to make the assessment at over £700. Thieving bastards. This put a damper on our mood, as did the rain in Barbados after just 6.2 overs of cricket.

      At 7.30pm, we ventured out of camp for the mile walk to the Millennium Bug, a restaurant recommended by our Dutch neighbours. We followed the walking route on Apple Maps, but unfortunately I turned right about 50 yards too prematurely. It started to rain and we ended up in a farm where we confronted by a bewildered farmer sheltering in his barn who started shouting at us. We couldn’t understand a word he was saying, but his exaggerated gestures told us that we needed to go back the way we had come. Luckily, Jackie never mentioned it again - that we had gone the wrong way in the rain.

      The Millennium Bug was a traditional Italian restaurant in a woodland setting. I ordered the Gnocchi alla Chef and Jackie, the mixed grill, which turned out to be a meat fest with just a couple of roasted vegetables. I helped Jackie with her dinner, but still she couldn’t manage a whole pork chop. We shared a Tiramisu for dessert. It was very nice and we will be going back before we leave.

      As we were just getting ready to leave when thunder and lightning crashed overhead and there was a torrential rain storm. We waited under a shelter for at least 25 minutes before making a dash for home.

      Along the tarmac footpath, we discovered a strange phenomenon of more than 20 frogs hopping off the path as we approached. We found one particularly fat frog 🐸 that couldn’t be bothered to hop out of our way. Jackie gave it a kick, but it just slid along the path. I tried to film it on my phone, but made a total pig’s ear of it. In my defence, I was trying to keep my phone dry and every time Jackie kicked the frog she cast a shadow over it from the street light. It was too wet for a second take apparently!!

      Further down the path another frog hopped onto my adventure sandal, which gave me the shock of my life. I volleyed it back into the grass.

      When we arrived back at camp, we and the camp were both very soggy, but on a positive note the lights I had attached to the tent were working. We had 3 small wines under the neighbouring awning before bed.

      Song of the Day - Alive and Kicking by Simple Minds.
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    • Day 3

      Day 2 - Driving Through The Swiss Alps

      June 3 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      After a good night sleep, we got ready and checked out of the hotel at 8.15am. There was a man in reception who presented us with our bill. It included €29 for breakfast, which we hadn’t had & €60 for a Double Room. I pointed out the error of his ways & he removed the breakfast payment & when I showed him a screenshot of the Double Room price when I booked on Booking.com, he amended the room price to €44. We left feeling very pleased with ourselves.

      We set the SatNav to take us to Camping Darna on the northern tip of Lake Lugano in Italy avoiding both tolls and motorways. It was showing as being 256 miles taking just under 8 hours.

      We very quickly entered Germany crossing the River Rhine at a dam then came across a McDonald’s, which Jackie had made her mind up we were having for breakfast. She had the traditional Egg McMuffin, whilst I had a BLT roll and a couple of coffees.

      Beside McDonald’s was a petrol station, with queues of RVs and coaches, meaning it must be cheap. We filled up at €1.87 a litre, which turned out to be about the most expensive you could pay for unleaded in Germany. The reason the station was busy we discovered was that the diesel was just €1.60 a litre.

      We continued our journey only to discover that my phone which was connected to Car Play had lost internet connection, which resulted in us losing Spotify, then the SatNav. We soon had no idea where we were going and we ended up returning to McDonald’s to use their internet and try and get 4G back on my phone. It didn’t work.

      We ended up trying to follow just a blue line on the screen and Jackie also had the compass up on my phone to make sure we were heading south (She had no idea how to read a compass!). Eventually after a few wrong turns and u-turns we arrived at Bad Säckingen where we crossed the Rhine River into Switzerland. To our great relief Switzerland provided us with 4G and we had music again.

      The northern part of Switzerland was pretty industrial and urban, but things changed when we got down to the scenic Lake Zug. We followed the road alongside Lake Zug, Lake Lauerzersee and Lake Urnersee, before entering the Swiss Alps. Our route took us to Andermatt, which was the start of the St Gotthard Pass, recognised as one of Switzerland’s most scenic roads. The road took us through a valley, then up a steep zigzag road to the top of St Gotthard Pass at 2,108 metres. The temperature ranged from 24 degrees at the bottom to just 9 degrees at the deep snow covered top.

      On the other side of St Gotthard Pass we found a a panoramic viewing area, cafe and toilets, which were definitely worth stopping at for a photo and a wee. As we continued, Jackie researched our intended destination, Camping Darna and discovered that the gates were closed at 7.00pm. This focused the mind to push on to get there in time. She also read on the weather app that around 7.00pm they were expecting thunderstorms. Perfect!

      We arrived at Camping Darna at 6.10pm. The very laid back receptionist told us that they had pitches available. She suggested we have a walk round and choose a pitch, before registration. The pitches looking out over Lake Lugano were chockablock, but much further back there were plenty of free pitches and quite frankly much nicer. We selected pitch 225, which was grassy and fairly private as it was next to an occupied static caravan with a huge awning.

      With dark clouds overhead we rushed to erect our tent, before the rain. Our Dutch neighbours with their very obedient dog, Noah, offered to help but we politely declined. After 20 minutes the tent was up, when the heaven’s absolutely opened with lightening flashing across the sky. We were cursing our sick note French friends, imagining them warm and dry in their French Chateau.

      We located to the lovely big awning of the neighbouring static caravan and watched puddles, then rivers form around our tent and throughout the campsite. We had two choices. cry or crack open the wine. Obviously we chose the latter. An hour later the rain hadn’t abated, so we waded to the on-site restaurant for dinner.

      We ordered a Sexy Pizza (honestly that was what it was called) to share (on Jackie’s instructions) and a beer each. The staff were lovely, the restaurant had a nice atmosphere and the Sexy Pizza with salami and peppers was delicious. I could have eaten more!

      We returned to our tent, managed to unload & pump up our airbeds, sleeping bags, pillows etc still in the rain, then sat under the awning with a nightcap of another litre of white wine. At 10pm we dashed to our tent and to bed.

      Song of the Day - Ain’t No Mountain High Enough by Diana Ross.
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    • Day 4

      Nächste Station: Luganer See

      August 29, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Heute morgen war das Wetter schon vielsversprechender. Auf ging‘s Richtung Luganer See. In Lugano hatte ich in der Camping-App einen Stellplatz gefunden, aber mir war nicht nach grosser Stadt. Auf der italienischen Seite des Sees gibt es in Porlezza einen schlichten Campingplatz namens La Sbianca Camping. Ganz gross an der Einfahrt: „No Stress!“. So ist das auch, alles sehr einfach, aber entspannt und schön. Ich habe einen Platz 20 Meter vom Ufer entfernt bekommen.
      Programm nach der Ankunft:
      Sonnen - Schwimmen im See - Mit dem Rad die Gegend erkunden - Sonnen - Grillen - Essen. Es könnte mir schlechter gehen…
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    • Day 11

      Ein paar Fakten zur Reise 🤣

      July 29 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Ein paar Funfakts zu unserer Tour:
      Unterwegs: 11 Tage
      1 Tag Pause und 10 Tage fahren 🤣🤣🤣😂
      Gefahrene Höhenmeter: 😂😂😂 kann nicht berechnet werden 🤣🤣🤣 oder doch?
      53 244m ufffff
      Max Höhe: 2802m = Col du Bonnette
      Min Höhe: 194m unbekannt was das war 😂
      Gefahrene km: 2900 km
      Gefahrene Pässe: 25
      Diese wurden aber in Summe 36 mal befahren 🤣😂. Es gab also Pässe die fuhren wir 2 mal und eine paar sogar 3 mal 🤣🛵🛵💪
      Kehren und Kurven: ungelogen sicher einige Hunderte 🤣🫣
      Umfaller, Unfälle, oder ähnliches: keine
      Pannen, Reifenplatzer, oder anderes: keine 🤔, man glaubt es kaum
      Alle heil wieder angekommen.

      Also eine Tour für naja bissl "Vespa-wahnsinnige" 😂

      Lotte, die Flotte hat ihre Prüfung mit Bravour bestanden und ist Berg tauglich.
      Dons grauer Flitzer natürlich auch.

      Soda: mein Allerwertester braucht denk ich a bissl Erholung 🫣
      Urlaub wurde schneller beendet als gedacht, da wir unsere Pausentage lieber in den Bergen verbracht hatten. Tja so kanns gehen
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    • Day 10

      Lugano See

      July 28 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      Heute gings ratzfatz sehr früh los, und wir waren fast alleine oben am Kleinen Sankt Bernhard. Weiter gings dann zum großen Sankt Bernhard, wo schon deutlich mehr Fahrzeuge unterwegs waren. Dann gings hopphopp zum Furkapass. Bissl über die Autobahn und dann hoch. Uiiii viel los. Viele Wohnmobile die da drüber schaufen.
      Und dann wieder runter und übern Gotthardpass. Erstmal eine längere Pause genossen und unser übliches Würstchen genossen. Band hat auch wieder gespielt.
      Dann rasch über die Autobahn weiter ca. 70 km nach Lugano.
      Okay, km macht man so, aber schöner ist es auf der anderen Straße 😅
      Grenze passiert und nun sind wir wieder in Italien.
      Wir haben beschlossen es reicht für heute und wir fahren nicht mehr weiter zum Comosee. Irgendwie sind wir beide dann doch geschlaucht und fix und foxy.
      Morgen geht's dann direkt nach Hause 😅🤣
      Direkt laut Plan übern MalojaPass, Flüelapass und was dem Don sonst noch so einfällt.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Porlezza, Portus Laetitiae

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