Italy
Aosta Valley

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    • Day 9

      Aosta

      July 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Obvezen postanek še v Aosti sami. Mesto so ustanovili že Rimljani in od njih je precej tudi ostalo, med katerimi so najbolj pompozna pretorijska vrata (seveda sva morala skozi njih tudi midva).

      Sprehodila sva se po glavni turistični ulici levo, desno, našla zame eno fajn pohodno srajčko (ker skoraj vsaka druga trgovina prodaja pohodno konfekcijo in čevlje, tako da mora človek kar mimo gledat, da ne stopi v vsako), ko sva pa hotela na aperol, so bile pa dejansko vse luštne mize oziroma bifejčki že zasedeni - čas kosila se je ravno razmahnil v polno.

      Vrnila sva se torej do kamperja, ki sva ga po goli sreči parkirala direkt pred mestno hišo, in se odpeljala proti Bernardu.
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    • Day 4

      Staub und Eisregen

      August 6, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Der Wind peitschte heute Nacht mit Böen bis zu 60 km/h an unser Zelt (sagte der Wetterbericht 🙃). Gefühlte Temperatur: 0 Grad. Dazu kam Eisregen der unser Zelt eingefroren hat … Wir waren aber trotzdem super geschützt und warm eingekuschelt in unserem Zelt.
      Um 6:30 Uhr hat dann unser Tag begonnen. Bei kaltem Wind und leichtem Eisregen sind wir nach Courmayeur abgestiegen. Dort haben wir erstmal unseren Appetit gestillt, bevor es wieder weiter ging. Der folgende Aufstieg hatte es in sich. Auf super trockenen und staubigen Wegen durch einen duftende Nadelwald ging es rauf auf knapp 2.000 Meter. Oben angekommen verlief der Pfad für die nächsten Kilometer an einer Bergflanke entlang. Wir konnten die ganze Zeit über das Mont Blanc Massiv mit seinen Gletscherzungen bestaunen.
      Am Nachmittag haben wir eine weitere Pause mit Kaffee und Power-Müsli am Refugio Bonatti gemacht. Das war dringend nötig, die letzten Kilometer hatten wir wieder mit heftigen Windböen und Eisregen zu kämpfen. Trotz der Widrigkeiten waren die Aussichten auf den MB atemberaubend! Es ist überwältigend da die bis zu 4.000 Meter hohen Gletscher und Felsformationen so nah zu sehen.
      Nach dem Abstieg ins Tal Val Ferret (1.784 Meter) haben wir uns hier ein Plätzchen für die Nacht am Waldrand direkt neben dem Gletscherfluss gesucht. Den Staub des Tages konnten wir heute Abend übrigens an unseren Beinen und Füßen wieder finden… 😝

      ➡️ 26,5 km ⬆️ 1.245 HM ⬇️ 1.665 HM
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    • Day 8

      Rifugio Castiglioni

      August 8, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Start 07.15
      Gipfel 10.45 Albrunhorn
      Ende 13.15

      Von Hötte zor Hötte: 14.00 bes 17.30

      En alpini chlettertour wo mer vel spörsenn bruchd hed,hemmer höt gmacht.höt hemmer de gepfel erreicht😀Mary esch mini tapferi begleitig gsi. Währed de tour eschs gämschi emmer weder cho luege,was mer verrockte hüener möchid😂

      De weg vo de binntalhötte uf dalpe devero esch idyllisch gsi.so öpis schöns...au di vele schöne steihüsli.so toll...😍
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    • Day 9

      Rifugio di Castiglioni / Schwarzhorn

      August 9, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Start 8.15
      Gipfel 12.45
      Ende 15.30

      Höt hend mer för einisch veli "männer" de weg gwese.😀 schinbar bede italiener ke archivierte gepfel.
      Fast ke wend ond wolke - en prachtstag.aber weder elei onderwegs.danke mary för di super gsellschaft ond danke im genfer ond im holländische päärli för de super loschtig obe gester!

      Öbrigens näbem schwarzhorn esch weder mol es rothorn😂
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    • Day 13

      Jezero brez dna (Lac Sans Fond)

      August 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Urco stran od ta malega Bernarda, pa 300 metrov višje, je kjuti jezerce. Še mal, pa bova ostala skoraj sama (glasni Makaroni se derejo na s seboj pripeljane svojeglave cucke). Mogoče pade kopanje (mal me skrbi dno...). Lep hajk, lepo ležanje na sončku 2.500 metrov nad morjem. Na eni strani Mont Blanc, na drugi pa Matterhorn...

      In ja, plavanje je padlo. Top!
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    • Day 1

      Über die Schweiz nach Italien

      August 21, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Planmäßige Abfahrt: 3:00 Uhr Morgens

      Nach etweiligen Verspätungen, umgefallenen Kühlboxen und vergessenen Bettzeug ging unser Roadtrip los. 🚐

      Unser 1. Stopp war in der Schweiz am Genfer See, danach ging es über den Rte Grand-Saite-Bernard Pass zum Sant Lago del Gran San Bernardo, ein wunderschöner Bergsee direkt an der Grenze zwischen der Schweiz und Italien. 🇨🇭🇮🇹

      Gegen 17 Uhr sind wir dann an unserem 1. Campingplatz „San Ponzio“ angekommen. Unser Campinglager haben wir direkt neben einem schönen Weinberg aufgeschlagen. Wir sind zwar mitten im Nirgendwo aber es ist eine idyllische Gegend. 🍇

      Unser Plan für morgen ist es definitiv viel(e) Wein(e) zu erleben!

      -Bender
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    • Day 50

      Aosta 19 miles

      August 31, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Spectacular day. Out before 9am after a poor, communal breakfast. Still cold but warmed up as soon as I got into the sun. Crossed over into Italy before the descent. Fabulous views. Best of the Via without a doubt. After the previous cloudy days it was clear skies when it really mattered. Big descent. Nearly 2,000m spread over 19 miles so quite hard on the feet but a small price to pay. Found a small supermarket who were happy to make me a sandwich for lunch. Bench nearby to sit on while eating. Fabulous.

      Passed a chap who appeared to spend his days keeping track of passing pilgrims. He had positioned himself at a point where all pilgrims were sure to pass him. Had an interesting record of those who had passed in June and July. Vast majority were Italians who, I suspect, would only have started at the Swiss border at the Col. He was seeing about 10 a day which surprised me as I have only met about 3 or 4 in the whole of France and Switzerland.

      Finally reached Aosta just before 5pm, after over 7 hours walking. What an amazing place. Chock full of tourists, shops, bars, restaurants and ice cream parlours. By far the most tourist-oriented place of the Via so far.

      Met Keith who is joining me for the next week. After the usual washing of me and my clothes it was out to check out the Roman ruins and have a pizza & beer followed by an ice cream for a fraction of the price in Switzerland. Love it.
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    • Day 51

      Saint-Vincent 20 miles

      September 1, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Looking at the door to our apartment I was struck by how quickly the culture changes when you go between countries on the continent. Within the UK you cross a border between Scotland and England and it isn’t obvious looking about you. But going between France and Switzerland and, more recently, between Switzerland and Italy the changes are immediate and quite startling. Some examples. Going back to the door. This was an inside door to our apartment, from a stair serving 4 or 5 apartments which itself was secured by a locked door. And yet our door required a 5 point steel bar mechanism the like of which I have never seen before. The day before, in Switzerland, at the hostel, there were a couple of hundred folk staying with all their fancy gear lying about, not a locked door in the place. The corridor was littered with fancy phones, bike batteries, GPS units galore all spending the night being recharged.

      The traffic. In Switzerland anyone approaching near a zebra crossing brought all traffic, both ways, to a halt just in case you decided to cross the road. A couple of hours drive across the border in Italy and, if you are foolhardy, you can just about persuade drivers to stop if you throw yourself onto the crossing but I really wouldn’t advise it.

      And then we have the prices. In Switzerland they frequently have an odd rule about a minimum spend of 10SFr in order to pay by card. I say odd because it is almost impossible to buy anything that costs less than 10SFr. In Italy I bought 2 pastries and a sort of tart for our (healthy) breakfast for about 4€.
      Anyway, I digress.

      An interesting day’s walk. Weather was just about perfect. Temperature in mid twenties, blue skies, a cooling headwind enough to refresh but not chill. I had decided against the official route which tended to climb from the valley floor only to drop down after a while and then go back up again. And repeat. Scenic but knackering. Instead we took the cycle route which stayed on the valley floor, close to the river, mostly on a dedicated cycle path. Probably annoyed some cyclists. Quite hard on the feet walking 20 miles on road surfaces but much kinder on the legs. And it meant you were able to get some lunch. Had a piadina which is a sort of flat bread. Fine and very reasonably priced.

      Very fancy hotel although the double bed was split into twin beds faster than you would think possible. Dinner of charcuterie followed by risotto. Very good.

      Important discovery on ice creams. Apologies for those who are way ahead of me on this but it was new to me. You get far more ice cream for two scoops on a cone then in a carton. Impossible to eat without requiring a shower and change of clothes but worth it. Extensive experimentation will be done over the next 5 weeks believe me.
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    • Day 52

      Pont-Saint-Martin 18 miles

      September 2, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      In keeping with the posh hotel, breakfast was possibly the biggest spread of the trip. Certainly since Canterbury. We did our best.

      Another lovely day for walking. The route seemed to either go up or down in the morning. I do quite like level but it didn’t do much of that. Came upon an interesting water dispenser. For the princely sum of 7 cents the machine would dispense a litre of water, sparkling or still. Chilled even. Perfect for pilgrims. The only slight gripe is we have no idea when we might come upon such a machine. So we have to lug water around in case there aren’t any more machines.

      Had a similar lunch to yesterday. Very pleasant although no chocolate. I am trying my best to cope with reduced rations. One curious episode at lunch. I went to the loo as is my custom on these occasions. It appeared to be occupied at least I was unable to open the door. Time passed. The barman passed a few times as well. No action. Eventually the barman pressed a buzzer behind the bar that released the door and he indicated I could enter. I know places in the UK often have signs saying toilets are for customers only but this is taking things to a new level. And why didn’t he open the door when he saw me waiting. Was it a power thing? If he doesn’t like the look of someone does he just never open the door? It might have been nice to notify folk of the procedure by a note on the door rather than leaving them standing with crossed legs indefinitely. Not impressed.

      Passed an old tractor as we walked. Not an uncommon occurrence on this walk. Keith pointed out the manufacturer. Lamborghini. Keith says they also make motor cars and he found the combination of product lines quite interesting. I share this in case anyone else is equally enthralled.

      I didn’t have an ice cream for lunch as I reckoned having one half way through the afternoon would provide a welcome break and a wee boost to help the weary legs. A suitable place was identified and progress towards it was tracked during the afternoon. Unsurprisingly, Sod’s Law being what it is, there was none to be had despite the village being quite a tourist trap in every other way.

      Tonight’s accommodation was billed as a bed and breakfast. I had requested two private rooms for obvious reasons. Turned out that we were in a 2 bed apartment. One bedroom had a double bed and a camp bed. It was indicated that the camp bed should be used by one of us. The other bedroom has 4 bunk beds. Food was laid out for breakfast including possibly the largest dod of cheese I have ever seen. The only slight quirky thing, and isn’t there always some quirky thing, is that a lady is joining us for breakfast. She is sleeping in another apartment, presumably on the same stair and we are to keep our door unlocked so she can simply came in whenever she wants. Hope she isn’t an early riser and has a strong constitution. I believe I can look a little scary if woken early in the morning, i.e. any time before 9am.

      The only restaurant in town seemed to be some sort of New York pizza place. Didn’t tempt us so we picked up some bits and pieces at a local deli instead. Very nice and we even tried to make some inroads in the hundred pound block of cheese as well.
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    • Day 113

      Valpelline

      September 10, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Unser Stellplatz im Aosta Tal in Valpelline - direkt an einem Bergbach, neben einer Kuhweide und mit Blick auf die Alpen. Ruhig in der Natur gelegen und außer einheimischen Anglern und Wander*innen keine anderen Menschen unterwegs.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Regione Autonoma Valle d'Aosta, Aostatal, Aosta Valley, Vall d'Aosta, Valle de Aosta, Vallée d'Aoste, Valle d’Aosta, 발레다오스타 주, Aostadalen

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