Camino 2018

April - June 2018
A 51-day adventure by Jill Read more
  • 46footprints
  • 3countries
  • 51days
  • 319photos
  • 7videos
  • 811kilometers
  • Day 6

    Guillena

    April 27, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After my breakfast with the very cheery gentlemen truckies in the industrial area, I walked the 11km to Guillena. The flooded Arroyo dos Molinos proved to be easy - used a broken wooden pallet to step across. Lots of mud though - sandals washed and drying. I am now holed up in the municipal albergue. No privacy at all in the showers but as I was the first to arrive I managed to get myself clean without embarrassing anyone.Read more

  • Day 7

    Breakfast in the industrial area

    April 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I can’t go past a truckies cafe! After a strenuous 2 km time for coffee. Besides, I know there are no other refueling possibilities between here and Castilblanco. It is countryside all the way.

    Lots of tiny lambs on the way out of town. And a picture of the albergue bedroom
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  • Day 7

    A perfect days walking

    April 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today was simply stunning. Sunny, but with a cool breeze, firstly olive groves, then orange groves and then kilometres of beautiful path through a garden of wildflowers. Every few steps I’d stop and take another photo - I now have so many flower photos it is silly - mass deletion necessary!
    A few photos - steers with some serious horns, a sign that I’m sure features on everyone’s blog, and then - flowers.
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  • Day 8

    When you need a sweet red wine...

    April 29, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A beautiful walk through a national park, part of the Sierra Nevada Norte. Wide gravel path, soft green grass, masses of wild lavender in bloom, chestnut trees. A few clear streams to cross - waded through and my feet loved the icy cold water. Quite a cold wind blowing and a slight sprinkle of rain at one stage, but no need for the Altus. Then a real mule killer hill at the end. Half way up was a memorial to a pilgrim who “finished” his Camino, a good reminder to take it easy!
    And now I’ve arrived at Almadén de la Plata and have a room to myself.
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  • Day 9

    Made it before the hail

    April 30, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    A lovely days walk again, through the Sierra Norte National Park, filled with wildflowers and lush green grass. The park does have private landholdings, strictly regulated, so they can graze their livestock and maintain buildings, but not add or change land use. Also a day of animals - I walked past sheep, horses, donkeys, cows, ducks, the black pigs from which is made belotta jamon, and saw hares, eagles and storks.Read more

  • Day 10

    20km and still feeling good!

    May 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Set out from Al Real in crisp cold weather. The skies are quite spectacular in this weather - cold air streams must be interesting the cloud patterns. Again, another beautiful day of walking, for the first half of the walk along a quiet gravel road with a perfect walking surface. We crossed a few pretty streams, some via concrete fords covered in a few inches of water. My guess is that these are normally dry. Again, made it into Monasterio just as the rain started to spit. Tonight I am staying at a parochial albergue, very well set up and spotlessly clean.

    Photos today - setting out past the castle at Al Real, early morning with Romy from Germany, another castle along the way - and pastoral scenes. Those sheep are in sheep paradise! Plus a shot of the albergue.
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  • Day 11

    Walking in the Air

    May 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today was a day that I’ll remember forever. A day of thin places. Moments of sheer joy. I walked most of the 22km alone - apart from an eagle soaring over me - and was absorbed by the beauty around me. It was a day that answered the question “Why do I keep coming back”.

    Again, a crisp cold day with heavenly blue skies and a lovely gravel path to walk on. About half way along the landscape changed from stone fences and trees (still trying to work out what they are) in small fields, to large open paddocks sewn with new wheat and other grain crops. Saw my first storks today, and enjoyed listening to the beak clattering on top the nests. Also saw my first poppies. The wildflowers are still spectacular.

    In Fuente de Cantos I am sharing a room in a “rural apartment hotel” with another Australian. A lovely old building, with the prettiest sunny garden, complete with pool and fountain. We decided against the municipal albergue in the old monastery on the basis of the weather - it’s freezing at night.
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  • Day 13

    Sunburnt feet and olives

    May 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Last night I was too pooped to write up the blog, but for the record - Zafra is a dear little town with a couple of pretty squares, a nice medieval centre, a couple of interesting Mudejar churches (none open) and the Convent of Santa Clara. Where I purchased some delicious pastries from the nuns for my contribution to the shared pilgrims dinner in the albergué. And arranged for some prayers to be said. It can’t hurt!

    I am now in Villafranca de los Barros - having showered and washed my clothes like a good pilgrim, I have my feet up. It was not a long walk today, only 19km, but it felt longer. I left late, stopped at a bar (cafe) and lingered, so I finished up walking in the midday heat. And my feet are sunburnt - I really need to stop and apply sunscreen more often.

    As the stages on the Via de la Plata are reasonably set, we meet the same people each night, and everyone has become friends. A nice varied group with 3 Australians, some French, Belgium, English,German and Catalonian s they emphasis NOT Spanish!). We often have a pilgrims dinner with wine at night, with everyone contributing something.
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  • Day 15

    Beautiful Mélide

    May 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wow! What a gem. No wonder it is a world heritage site.

    The day started early, leaving our rather primitive albergue before dawn. There was a wedding last night and the locals seem to celebrate by driving round all night and sounding their horns in the early hours of the morning, so we were all wakened by a 5am cacophony.

    It was a straight tramp along the highway and we reached the Roman bridge into Mélide by morning tea time - perfect for sightseeing. Aside from the magnificent arched bridge I also saw the Roman ampitheatre, the circus, the Alcazaba (fort), temple of Diana and the Roman and Visigoth museums (phew!)

    And a local exhibition of folkloric singing and dancing!

    Tonight I and two other women are sharing a room in a good hotel. Such luxury to have our own bathroom and be able to spread our gear around.
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  • Day 16

    Storks and a walk through the Dehesa

    May 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    The stork season is well and truly here. So many flying overhead - I can’t tell if they are scouting for food or flying further north. But certainly every storks nest I pass, and there are many, is now occupied. The clattering of bills is such a joyous spring sound. I tried to take a photo of the nests and storks on top of the Roman aqueduct but you can’t really see the storks.

    Today’s walk was only 17km. A late start so I was glad it finished before the heat. I’m using my umbrella for shade. Wildflowers are still spectacular.
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