Kenya
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    • Day 20

      Hells Gate Nationalpark

      December 15, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Das Wetter ist noch unbeständig, daher fahren wir weiter ins Landesinnere. Über den großen Grabenbruch an den Lake Naivasha. Dort besuchen wir den Hells Gate Nationalpark. Ein winziger Park, aber etwas besonderes: es gibt hier keine Löwen und keine Elefanten, daher darf man hier Wandern und Radfahren. Ein wundervoller Tag!Read more

    • Day 6

      Hell’s gate park

      August 15, 2022 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Nous avons quitté Masai Mara ce matin, direction le lac Naivasha, où nous sommes arrivées après quelques heures de route. L’après-midi nous sommes allées à Hell’s gate park qui est aussi une réserve protégée située dans une vallée et des gorges, formant un paysage très différent de ce que nous avons vu et très beau aussi. La particularité de ce parc est qu’on peut s’y promener en voiture mais aussi en vélo et à pied. On est ainsi au contact plus direct des animaux. Il n’y a évidemment pas de fauve, mais il faut être prudents car il y a des buffles ! Les filles se sont régalées de pouvoir approcher un peu les zèbres, antilopes et phacochères! Clémence a aussi trouvé de beaux gisements d’obsidienne et Lucie , elle, s’est extasiée devant des gisements… de crottes de bestioles !! Nous avons marché un peu et Lucie, en bonne citoyenne, a ramassé des déchets . En sortant du parc il y avait une colonie de babouins. Et le chef était manifestement mécontent du travail de Lucie. Il s’est approché et lui a littéralement arraché les déchets des mains !! Plus de peur que de mal, mais une belle frayeur quand même !!Read more

    • Day 23

      Les portes de l'Enfer (?)

      January 28, 2020 in Kenya ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

      Hell's gate est un petit parc où on peut circuler en vélo ou à pied. Il se distingue aussi par de belles falaises et des pitons rocheux qui ont inspiré les dessinateurs du Roi Lion. Après avoir été trimballés en van dans les autres parcs on est bien contents de faire un peu d'exercice ! Ensuite nous prenons la longue route jusqu'à Amboseli. Les pistes sont détrempées, il y a de la boue rouge et glissante partout et le conducteur se galère pour avancer sans s'enbourber. Des bus publics empruntent pourtant ces routes chaque jour... Ici c'est la saison sèche, mais cette année il pleut. Les paysages de savane grillée sont remplacés par des étendues verdoyantes. Bref, c'est le gros bazar climatique.Read more

    • Day 5–6

      Besuch des Hell's Gate Nationalparks

      December 26, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Am Morgen nach dem Zusammenbau des Zeltes, ging es auf in den Hell's Gate Nationalprak. Unser erster Park mit der Aussicht auf die ersten wilden Tiere.🥰🦓🐗🦒 In diesem tollen und überschaubaren Nationalpark darf man auch jeder Zeit aussteigen, wandern oder mit dem Fahrrad fahren. 🚶‍♀️🚶🚲Read more

    • Day 12

      Hells Gate National Park

      October 21, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Our only full day in Naivasha, we had some optional activities, but the main ones were cycling through Hells Gate National Park or doing a crater walk. The crater walk was appealing as you get to walk around the perimeter of a crater, overlooking the animals and wildlife within, while also looking out across Hells Gate National Park outside the crater. In the end, though, cycling is what we decide to do. It was one of the major activities I really wanted to do while on my tour, there was a good crew doing it, and it was a good bit of fitness. It took us a while to get started, however, and so the cycling didn't start until about 11 am. But it was really cool being able to cycle unrestricted through a national park and get up close and personal with Zebras, Giraffe, Wildebeest, Impala, and other cool animals. We cycled for a good hour or so before we got to the start of a walk we wanted to do. It was the inspiration for the Lion King movie. The main attraction, pride rock, was about a 3 hour hike away, but we wanted to save ourselves some time in the afternoon to relax and chill after a busy few days of the tour. As such, we selected the 2 hour hike to try to save us some relaxation time, but in the end, we probably could have done the 3 hour walk because the 2 hour tour was just over an hour. They must give those times for the slow tourists. But we were pretty ready to head home anyway by the end, so we jumped back on the bikes and headed for the exit. This time, we were fighting a slight incline on the way out, so it took a bit longer, but we still finished at a reasonable hour. We headed back and tried to chill, but some travel admin, chores, and organising ourselves occupied most of the evening. But it was still a great day and a chill afternoon as we tried to watch the rugby world cup semi finals that sent New Zealand to the final, which will take place next week. After this, we went back to the tents to sleep. A part from some annoying kids making a lot of noise, it was a good night.Read more

    • Day 41

      Bike & hike in Hell's Gate

      July 7, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      After the first day in Naivasha and being too tired to even write a word beside the pictures yesterday, today more content :) The plan of the day was to explore Hells Gate NP, the only park in Kenya that can be visited by bike. Conveniently, quite good mountain bikes can be rented near the entrance and the adventure can begin! It was so nice to finally do silne sports and enjoy nature without a car. After around 1 h of biking between zebras, giraffes and baboons I reached the gorge, where I had to leave to bike. From there it was hiking time! It was a big surprise for me that Kenya is hiding such natural wonders like this park, reminding me so much of a few European National Parks. Going back was a little bit tiring but then O got lucky again - a local teacher coming back to the town offered me a ride, with the lovely statement "I'm not a taxi driver, but you are human in need". On the final of the trip, a delicious lunch in the local bar, recommended by my new friend. Until now, Kenyan towns have been treating me well:)Read more

    • Day 180

      Mountainbiken durch "das Tor zur Hölle"

      September 11, 2018 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Auf dem Weg vom Nakuru Nationalpark (NP) in die Masai Mara legten wir noch einen Zwischenstop im „Hell‘s Gate NP“ ein, um den Tag nicht nur im Auto zu verbringen, sondern die zweite Hälfte dieses schönen, sonnigen Tages noch etwas auskosten zu können. Das Besondere an diesem Park ist, dass man ihn auf dem Mountainbike erkunden kann und nicht wie bei den meisten Parks ausschließlich im Auto. Dies heisst natürlich auch, dass man dort keine gefährlichen Raubtiere vorfinden wird... hoffentlich! 😅 Nach der ganzen Rumsitzerei im Geländewagen war Abstrampeln auf‘m Fahrrad jedenfalls eine uns sehr willkommene Abwechslung. 🚵🏼‍♀🚵🏽‍♂

      Die Felsformationen, die hier die Landschaft prägen, waren sehr beeindruckend. Der Park liegt auf 1500m im sogenannten großen afrikanischen Rift Valley und versprüht dadurch das Gefühl als wäre man in einem Valley/ Canyon, wie man es aus den USA kennt. 🏞 🏜🌋 Zwei erloschene Vulkane - Ol Karia und Hobley’s - sowie Obsidian-Formationen aus abgekühlter Lava sind im Park zu sehen. Doch das Highlight ist sicher die Hell’s-Gate-Schlucht. Wir schnappten uns einen ortskundigen, recht jungen Masai, der uns durch die Schlucht bis in den „Devil‘s Bedroom“ und die „Devil’s Shower“ navigieren sollte. Und das war auch bitter nötig! Einerseits, weil sich in diesem Teil des Parks wohl doch diverse Wildkatzen (Leoparden, Geparden, Löwen) aufhalten können, denen man besser nicht OHNE Masai... bzw. am besten GAR nicht... begegnet. Anderseits, weil wir uns ohne ihn an unserer Seite auch sicher nicht durch diesen anspruchsvollen Parcours aus Treibsand, schmalen Felsschluchten (die man z.T. nur abgeseilt erklimmen konnte) und Bächen getraut hätten. Immer wieder mal hieß es „Schuhe aus, Augen zu und durch!“.

      Eine weitere Besonderheit dieser Schlucht waren die geothermischen Aktivitäten, was auch die schwarze Erde und Vulkanlandschaft erklärte. So waren wir auch dank unseres Guides gewarnt vor brüllend heissen Wasserquellen, die die Felswände hinabflossen, was uns sehr an die heißen Quellen im Yellowstone NP erinnerte.
      Zudem war es auch wieder eine dieser unheimlichen Bereicherungen uns mit diesem einheimischen Masai auszutauschen. Nicht nur über z.B. die Region und das staatliche Energieunternehmen, das sich hier angesiedelt hatte, um Energie aus Geothermik zu gewinnen, was die Hauptenergiequelle des gesamten Landes ist. Noch viel mehr Freude bereitete es uns über seinen Werdegang zu hören: dass er in einem Masai Dorf nähe der Masai Mara aufwuchs, es nun an die Universität geschafft hat, sich hier als Tour Guide etwas dazu verdient, und das grosse Ziel verfolgt, in ein paar Jahren mal für einen dieser großen, gut zahlenden Energieversorger zu arbeiten.

      Da führt man einerseits hochintelligente Gespräche über effiziente, profitbringende und umweltschonende Energiegewinnung. Andererseits erfährt man dann wiederum von urtraditionellen Masai Riten, die er praktiziert. So fragte er uns z.B., ob wir schon mal Fisch oder Hühnchen gegessen hätten? Denn in seiner Kultur assoziiert man mit ersterem Schlangen und mit letzterem Fledermäuse. 😳 Außerdem ist es normal, dass sie im Dorf Tierblut trinken, am besten mit frischer Milch vermischt. Oder die Eingeweide und ganz besonders gern das frische Herz eines Tieres essen, was aber meist eine dem Dorfältesten überlassene Ehre ist. Und um ein richtiger Mann zu werden, musste er 3 Monate lang ohne jegliche Überlebensausrüstung in der unbewohnten Wildnis wandern und überleben. Waffen zum Jagen, die Jagdtechnik selbst als auch die Verteidigung gegenüber Raubtieren bis hin zum Werkzeug für Feuer und einfache Unterkünfte für die Nacht wurde alles zwangsweise zum Überleben erlernt. So wird man hier also nach erfolgter Überlebensprobe vom Jungen zum Mann. 😧

      Er war wirklich sehr gebildet, nett und hilfsbereit und während unseres 2-stündigen Felsschluchtparcours lauschten wir gespannt jedem erzählten Wort und löcherten ihn neugierig mit vielen Fragen. Obwohl er auch viel über die Welt da draussen wusste, hatte er Kenia noch nie verlassen. Auf unsere Frage hin, welches Land er am Liebsten mal bereisen würde, antwortete er etwas zögerlich, weil ihm der Name des Landes nicht einfallen wollte: „...in das Land, wo Borussia Dortmund herkommt!“ Auf einmal schauten sich beide Männer verdutzt an und beiden ging sichtlich das Herz auf. Da hatten sich anscheinend am Ende der Welt 2 Ruhrpottler-im-Herzen gefunden. ❤
      Und natürlich konnte man keinen besseren Moment finden als auf einer Lava-Felsformation beim Sonnenuntergang 🌅 über den deutschen Fussball zu plaudern... sogar zu Özils Benehmen während der diesjährigen WM hatte er eine Meinung. ...und das alles irgendwo im Nirgendwo in Afrika. Wahnsinn! ⚽😍

      Das sind schlicht die schönsten Momente einer solchen Weltreise. Erleben zu dürfen, dass es keine Rolle spielt, woher man kommt, wie man lebt, welche Sprache man spricht, welche Hautfarbe man hat. Es gibt immer etwas - sei es eine Leidenschaft wie Sport, irgendeine Kleinigkeit - das uns allen ein Funkeln in die Augen zaubert, uns auf einmal verbindet. Zusammen über etwas zu lachen, sagt mehr als tausend Worte, und ein Lächeln wiederum öffnet unsere Herzen und lässt alle Vorurteile und Berührungsängste schwinden. Es braucht wohl schlicht mehr solcher „Hindernisparcours“, wo sich Menschen aus aller Welt die Hände reichen, um sich gegenseitig über „Schluchten“ zu helfen, die sie bisher trennten. (Amen! Unser Wort zum Sonntag.) 🙏🏼 😇
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    • Day 132

      Lake Naivasha

      September 15, 2017 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      We reluctantly left the Mara, possibly our last experience wild camping in Africa. There is nothing like the experience of camping with no fences, hearing lion, elephant, hyenas and hippos ‘conversing’ through the night, and occasionally, wandering through camp.
      Drove all day to a beautiful campsite on the edge of Lake Naivasha, where we spent our last few nights living out of our Land Rover. On our drive here, we experienced our first overt attempt, since being in Africa, by a police officer to extort money. We were pulled over at a checkpoint and told we had committed a traffic offence by overtaking a truck on a solid yellow line (not sure how the cop may have seen this since he was standing on the side of the road several kilometers from where we may have potentially committed the offence). The ploy by Kenyan police, which we had learnt from others, is to give you the option to show up at court 10 days from the offence (which no tourist will be able to do) or contribute to the cop’s lunch fund. This is exactly what happened.
      In his benevolent mood, the policeman decided to forgive us the offence and said we could contribute $50 for his lunch to show our appreciation. Of course, we said this did not seem correct, and we would prefer to just pay the fine if we could get a receipt. After ~15 minutes of his trying to get us to understand that he only really wanted cash (including asking John to explain to Christy exactly what he wanted – ‘I think she understands perfectly what you want’) he finally told us to “just go”, which we did as quickly as possible, making sure to signal and put our seatbelts back on.
      While camping on the edge of the lake, we were able to enjoy watching some wonderful colubus monkeys in our campsite. Also, since our food stockpile is essentially depleted, we’ve enjoyed eating all of our meals at the local restaurant. Our last stop before returning the Land Rover will be in Karen, a cushy suburb on the outskirts of Nairobi.
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    • Day 15

      Elsamere Conservation Centre

      June 23, 2017 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      I am being honest I haven't really heard of Joy Adamson or George Adamson before but me being me I can't resist learning about history especially when there is cake involved!

      We arrived on the banks of Elsamere Conservation Centre by boat, we went into the museum first where we looked at a lot of Joy and George Adamson's belongings. There were type writers, sewing machines, paintings, certificates, oil paints, photographs and several other little belongings.

      We then were treated to high tea, there were so many cakes and biscuits - it was delicious. We then watched a documentary about Joy Adamson's life and she is such an incredible woman. I didn't expect to enjoy this as much as I did but I really did and I look forward to researching more about her.
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    • Day 68

      My Birthday was better then Yours!

      March 9, 2016 in Kenya ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      8th : It took 3 buses to get here, but we're settled in at Fisherman's camp, rented a tent for the night. We're along the shores of Lake Naivasha: All I hear from my tent are the calming, natural sounds of birds, frogs and crickets. My pre-birthday meal was a splurge! Unplanned splurge since it's the only food available and the restaurant at our campsite is fancy and expensive. It's funny to think, just like at Kibale NP in Uganda, we're paying more for this tiny two person tent rental then any accommodation yet, and the restaurant is fancy and expensive. The atmosphere is where they get away with it. Feet away from our tent is an electrical fence that helps keep the hippo, currently eating grass, out of the water, from getting too close. Yep, on our camp grounds are 3 hippos, and of course the odd birds and monkeys.

      9th : It's my birthday!! And for my birthday, I got to wake up with the sounds of birds. Grabbed our rented bikes and went for our usual bean breakfast in the town next door. And I use the word town loosely. It's about 100 feet long along the main road with mini shops. Only this breakfast had a slight twist! MILK!!! For some reason, when I travel, I never drink milk because I'm afraid it will make me sick, or I won't like it. I'm a milk snob. But considering I have a glass almost everyday at home, I've had huge cravings for cold milk. All the milk I kept seeing in stores was full fat, so 3.3%... I knew that wouldn't satisfy my craving so I never bought it... Jack found me low fat milk! In a juice carton! And it was cold! She got the campsite restaurant to put it in the fridge for her... She's so smart. It's my birthday!

      Jack must have given the park a quick call before we got there, because the animals were out to say hi as soon as we passed the gate into Hell's Gate National Park. For my birthday, I was greeted by about 30 zebras, 5 girafes, a bunch of different gazelles that I wish I could name, countless hogs and a heard of African buffaloes. And this was all done in such a natural way, I felt like I was right next to them with this bicycle!

      To Jack's parents - I cycled for 3 hours! That's pretty good for me... We were at the park gates by 830am (cycled there from our camp 5 km out) and I had returned to town by 1250pm... Minus an hour hike through a beautiful gorge. That's right, for my birthday, up close and personal with animals AND got to walk a beautiful, short hike.

      I was getting a little tired, heat starting to increase, so I decided I was allowed to stop there! No need to push myself further, it would only frustrate me. I didn't want to end my cycling morning negatively being exhausted, so Jack and I chose to split. The energy bunny wanted to keep going. I went to an even smaller town then the morning breakfast to grab a good ol' cold coke. She continued down the main road to the next lake, about 12 km down. I returned my bike at the camp site and hoped on a minibus to meet her at the lake. I love motorized vehicles. Don't get me wrong, doing the park via bike was absolutely perfect. But getting through towns, I don't need to make any effort. I sit in a van, say where I want to go, and they bring me, they even tell me where to get off since I have no clue what Kongoni looks like. I was sitting in the front seat, so it was funny to wave to Jack from my comfy transport as we passed her cycling hard. We were originally worried not to find each other in the town, because every town we've been in in Kenya has big bigger then we expected. If you saw pictures, you'd know why that's hilarious. Kongoni was the last stop. The road literally stops there, it becomes dirt after and then nothing. There was a T intersection, so one could debate the possibility of getting lost there... But it was about 150 feet long, and the T road was about 50 feet long, again of tiny shop stalls. At worst, if we couldn't see each other, we could just ask around town for the other white girl. I doubt they've seen too many.

      The goal was to see a lake filled with flamingos! With our Kenyan luck, you've guest it! No flamingos. But gorgeous views at the lake front anyways, and this tiny little town made the trip worth while. At least it was for me, I just had to sit there. Jack now has to cycle back, knowing the size of the mountains that await her! We almost got back at the same time! I beat her by 5 minutes. My bus didn't leave for a while because it's hard to fill a minibus in the world's tiniest town. And she's a beast! A cycling beast!

      I got a warm shower for my birthday too! The gifts just keep on coming. They lit a fire under the water tank when they saw us approaching the showers. Now I'm refreshed, I've got my new t-shirt on, my hairs all did... I grabbed a tea to relax and guess what! This young lady got me Salt and Vinegar Chips !! Apparently she listens to my every craving, because I've been looking for them and obviously haven't found any... She's a genius!

      Since anyone who knows me, knows I'm a big family kind of gal... A birthday would not be complete without reaching out to the fam jam. I got to speak to both my mom and dad! It's a weird thing to call your parents for them to wish you happy birthday, but it felt great! I went next door, to another camp site who had Wi-Fi, and said it was my birthday and I just wanted to send a quick email. The manager said I had to order a drink for the Wi-Fi password, but the waitress gave it to me right away. Score! I had a voice message from my dad when I logged on, and right away I looked at Jack and said "20 bucks says he sings me happy birthday". And sure enough, it's a recording of him singing to me! Every year, he never skips a beat. If for some reason he didn't reach me on my birthday, there was always a voice message of him singing to me! My mom was at work but of course acted like she had all the time in the world to chat with me. They're awesome. The only thing missing, the only thing that would complete my day, is chatting with Gen, the world's coolest twin, wishing her a happy birthday. Fortunately for her, she's a big girl now, with a big girl job, and her students probably wouldn't appreciate her answering her phone. So I didn't call, instead I left her my own personal rendition of the happy birthday song. I hope her day is as epic as mine, in her own way! I have comfort in knowing I spoke to her Sunday, when she was celebrating her birthday, and she seemed to be surrounded by those who love her. Comfort. Xox. Leaving the hotel with the Wi-Fi, the security guard asked if he could sing to me. To which of course I said yes! He actually sang me the whole happy birthday song, top to bottom... Jack and I danced around at the security gait. It was a beautiful moment. Lol.

      The birthday shenanigans continued! We had diner, I got to chose whatever I wanted! I've gotten so used to us sharing things that I couldn't make up my mind on my own... We ordered two amazing dishes and shared both. I got to have two dishes! And because Jack had to store the milk in the restaurant fridge, they knew it was my birthday, so they paid a drink for me! Free beer! And believe it or not, I got a card! And candles! Jack had been carrying candles and this card since leaving home! This is a women who has difficulty making plans for the weekend because it's too much of a commitment... And here she is, carrying candles and a card for 2 months... This was without a doubt an amazing day. Topped off with a kitkat and dairy milk chocolate bars... I swear it's like this girl knows me or something... Like she actually pays attention to what I say... Actually cares about knowing what I like... She's absolutely amazing, and she made this birthday perfect.

      Side note : according to east Africans, Jack and I look alike. The amount of times we've been asked if we're sisters (or just as often brother and sister) is ridiculous. I guess the classic joke of "all Asians look alike" is true for any ethnicity that isn't your own. I don't think I have to point out just how little Jack and I actually resemble each other... But here, people are shocked when we tell them we aren't related. We were even told a few times they thought we were twins... Lol! Twins. And people think my actual twin and I don't look alike, Jack? Oh boy.
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