• Kim and Alex

A semi-serious adventure

Et 186-dags eventyr af Kim and Læs mere
  • Kiwi Exp. - Kaiteriteri to Westport

    20. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Kaiteriteri sat sullen as a beach town out of season with only birds occupying the sands but it didn't matter to us as we weren't staying around. We drove to our first stop, the Nelson Lakes, where in summer you can take a jump off the short wooden pier into the deep blue waters surrounded by hills and mountains. However today, in winter, no one attempted to do this at risk of going into shock from the icy temperatures. Instead we took in the views from the pier and fed cat food to eels, who congregate in the shadows under the planking. Clouds drifted low under snow sprinkled peaks like the aftermath of a great fire.

    After a short hike through rain sodden forest on the shoreline we drove down through valleys of pine and past fast flowing rivers swollen by the rains. The clouds continued to haunt the hillsides as we past under the towering greenery.

    The absence of other vehicles or homes for miles upon miles gave the landscape a sense of emptiness. The South Island's population is far less than that of its Northern brother, with the entire island having only as many people as those that populate Auckland. There are only 30,000 between Kaiteriteri and one of our future destinations, Franz Josef.

    We chased the fading light and the prospect of a hot meal to our final stop, Westport, where we cooked up steak and chips from the local supermarket and washed it down with New Zealand pale ale. We sat around the table, old friends (it feels that way after 2 or more weeks travelling together) and new, drinking beer, sharing jokes and learning French with Perrick.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Westport to Lake Mahinapua

    21. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We left Westport under a rainbow and headed to Cape Foulwind (we swear we didn't make it up) to walk along an ominous skyline of grey as rolling waves tirelessly charged the coastline of gnarled rocks. The wind whipped around us as dark clouds opened to patter our jackets with a sprinkling of rain before thoroughly showering us. Although we dried on the bus as we drove southward down the west coast, when we left its shelter to view the Pancake Rocks, the rain caught us again, this time heavier still. After running back to the bus, our clothes were soaked and our mood was dark.

    Drying out for the second time we drove along the coastal road with the raging sea on one side and a Jurassic landscape on the other. The road slid between cliff and tide, hugging the cliff so closely that at one point it hung over the road that narrowed to a single lane. Water from rain and sea spray splashed against the bus windows as we lurched around sharp turns in the road.

    When stopped in Greymouth for supplies due to the remoteness of our destination, Lake Mahinapua. However this time, as well as food, we needed to get materials to make fancy dress costumes, for our hostel/pub's theme for the night, 'plastic'.

    Some clothes hangers, sellotape and a lot of ripped up bin bags later and Alex had a pair of eagle wings and Kim a hula girl outfit. We ate roast pork and drank beer in the warm atmosphere. The walls were adorned with Polaroid photographs dating back to 1999 of previous fancy dress parties that had passed through, each with different themes. Frost and darkness gathered outside as the smells of spilt liquor and smoke mingled inside the oasis of the pub.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Lk. Mahinapua to Franz Josef

    22. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    The scenery was postcard perfect with a tricolour of clear blue sky, lush green landscape before a crystal white horizon of mountains. The blue of the sky was complemented by the deeper shade of Lake Mahinpua, which lapped its shores in the chilly morning breeze.

    The beautiful scenery continued as we drove to Franz Josef, frost twinkled on fern in the shadows whilst in the sunlight rivers dashed over pebbled beds. Reds and ambers hung from trees as all the while the mountains of the Southern Alps loomed in the distance.

    Once at Franz Josef we immediately set off to undertake a 16,500 ft skydive over the mountains and Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. This wasn't something we had planned to do prior to arriving in New Zealand, hence the lack of announcement beforehand. However the opportunity to do such an incredible thing in such a unique location was too great an opportunity to miss.

    Our South African instructors/tandem divers, Mark, Francois and Nico were fantastic hosts, joking whilst making us feel safe. Nervous excitement tingled through our bodies as we dressed into our gear and received our safety briefing. Under the afternoon sun we strolled out across the short runway to squeeze into a single prop aeroplane that then rumbled off the tarmac to start the ascent. Sitting on the floor of the plane with our respective tandem diver behind us, we watched the ground drop away from the small windows. At the tail end of the plane by the exit door, it was only wide enough for one person to sit with the plane's body curving closely around. Out of one side we watched snow topped mountains and glaciers, and on the other, rainforest and the Tasman sea glinting in the unobstructed sun.

    Our breath steamed as the air cooled and at 10,000 ft we were give oxygen masks to help us breathe at altitude. After final safety checks and a tightening of straps to our tandem divers we arrived at 16,500 ft when the exit door was swung open. We turned to position ourselves in the doorway where our legs dangled out to be whipped by the air as noise and light filled our senses. With the world under our feet the last words we heard were 'Ready. Set. Go!' before tumbling out into a 11,500 ft free fall to the earth below. The aeroplane flashed past our vision and the sun briefly blinded us as we twisted and sped away. Air rushed through us as our hearts galloped and our minds struggled to keep pace. Yelling but unable to hear ourselves we levelled out into a bird-like spread to gaze across the panorama all around and below. The force of our fall rippled the skin around our faces as we took in the visual spectacle, all the while hurtling downward.

    At 5000 ft our parachutes opened and our bodies lurched to a slower descent. We were then able to hear ourselves breathe and whoop with adrenaline. Fields and farmhouses circled under our toes whilst rainforest, lakes and the sea spread out to the horizon. Truly exhilarating and unforgettable it was smiles and laughter all round as we calmly landed back down on steady earth.

    We arranged for our skydives to be videoed and photographed by Go Pros strapped to our tandem divers. Unfortunately the camera used for Kim's skydive did not work correctly meaning that she did not have a working video of her experience. Francois advised that he would contact her tomorrow after he tried to rectify it but for now we were living off the adrenaline and memory of what we had just done.
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  • Franz Josef

    23. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    After seeing the glaciers from above yesterday we took a morning hike onto the Franz Josef glacier itself. We travelled up onto the glacier by helicopter, landing into shadows on the ice as the sun was still making its morning ascent to crest the mountain peaks.

    Attaching crampons to our boots we followed our guide, Pete, up through the ice, stopping periodically to allow him to knock ice off the trail with a pick axe. The glacier moves over time making the ice a constantly changing environment for each hike. As the sun threw its light across the glacier, the ice turned from white to blue, absorbing this colour whilst reflecting the rest of the spectrum.

    We climbed up stairways chiselled out of the ice, moving further onto the glacier that towered up in front of us. Another group climbing ahead of us, like a line of ants, gave perspective to glacier's sheer scale. In places we had to crawl and squeeze through small tunnels honed out of the ice by the wind. Our waterproof gear kept us dry as we slid around the smooth surfaces of the unblemished blue ice.

    As the glacier's surface filled with sunlight our sunglasses spared us the glare of its reflection off the ice. The exertion of our climb and the sun's warmth heated us under our many layers. Yet there were still cold shadows to be found as we moved single file through a giant crevice, edging down deep into the ice and out of view from the world around us. Here the blue ice shone in its full glory, time held still inside its walls until the glacier eventually retreated and exposed its contents.

    The ice crunched under our crampons as our breathing echoed in our ears. A heavy silence hung over the ice and when we stopped to listen we could hear the ice creak and crack like the hull of a wooden tall ship at sea. Maori legend states that the glacier was formed by the frozen tears of a young woman whose lover died falling from the mountains whilst they climbed together.

    Back in Franz Josef town we soaked in Hot Pools with temperatures varying between 36, 38 and 40 degrees. As darkness descended the air temperature quickly dropped causing clouds of steam to rise off the pools and envelope us.

    Our hostel's bar ran an all-you-can-eat pizza night that we took full advantage of, stuffing our faces with pizza, chips and garlic bread before filling tupperware for lunch tomorrow (backpacker lifestyle). The bar then ran a competition to win a bungy jump in Queenstown where contestants had to run across the bar attached to a bungy cord, grab a drink and return it to their partner to down. The quickest time won, with time taken off for those willing to do it with as little or no clothing on. No photos to see unfortunately/fortunately depending on your point of view but we can confirm there were naked contestants by the end of the evening (not us!)...
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Franz Josef to Wanaka

    24. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 -2 °C

    After the Go Pro recording of Kim's skydive had failed to work properly Francois telephoned her as promised. Unfortunately he had been unable to get the video to playback properly so we expected a straight forward refund. Instead Francois arranged for Kim to redo her skydive for free this morning! In a flurry we organised with our Kiwi Experience driver Kane and Francois for us to return to the airfield whilst the rest of the group visited Lake Matheson. With frost still coating the ground we arrived at the airfield and Kim once again took to the skies, this time under the guidance of Mark whilst Alex went with Francois to the landing site to greet Kim on her return. This was also a great opportunity for Alex to take photographs of Fox Glacier from ground level as although we had landed in the same field only two days before we were in no real position to stop and take photographs immediately after our skydives.

    Kim was extremely grateful to Mark and Francios for allowing her to take another skydive. By doing so allowed her to not only get a working video but also to appreciate the views in more detail and soak in the experience further. Whereas on the first dive, the initial seconds were terrifying with the enormous view opening up beneath, Kim felt a lot calmer the second time around. One thing she noticed during the free fall was how difficult it was to keep her mouth closed, there was so much air and pressure it took a lot of energy to smile or close her mouth!

    Fox glacier sat brightly in the morning sun as farm animals on the ground appeared as tiny dots. Like the first skydive, once the parachute was deployed Kim had the chance to navigate this by pulling on cords either side of the opened chute. Kim was able to see and wave to Alex and Francois as she came into land with Mark.

    Down on the ground Francois explained to Alex that it was very rare for the Go Pros to not function properly and normally the team would offer a refund but they wanted us to leave happy and give Kim a further opportunity to get her video because of how well she had taken the experience as well as the disappointment of the video not working. It was a brilliant gesture and one neither of us will forget. Wanting to prove the video had worked correctly Francois even played it on a large television in front of other people in the reception!

    We rejoined the bus and headed for Wanaka, a peaceful little town that sits on the lake of the same name. Mountain ranges rear up from its shore, coloured shades of orange and purple by the setting sun. The temperature continued to drop lower and lower and we were glad to arrive in the log fire warmth of our hostel. We settled in for the night, talking over dinner to a local father, Reg, and daughter, Sarah who were on a week's holiday together. Sarah recommended a morning hike up Mt Iron for views over the lake but our first thoughts were for a solid night's sleep in a warm bed.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Wanaka to Queenstown

    25. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We left the hostel to walk back along the shoreline of the lake to our bus, braving the -6 degree temperature. Low lying cloud cut off the mountains at their chests as frost coated the ground. In the distance the clouds parted to reveal a window where a snowy mountain stood painted gold from where the rising sun had managed to penetrate through. From our perspective on the grey frozen ground this appeared to be the gateway to another warmer world.

    We had time to take up Sarah's advice on hiking Mt. Iron. Taking a steep winding track up through the rugged iron-like rock that gives the mountain its name, we arrived with a warm glow and hard breath at the summit. Unfortunately the cloud obscured views across the lake so we did not linger in the frosty atmosphere.

    Taking the bus we moved onward to Queenstown, through the Kawarau Gorge with its rugged mountains towering above us and the river swept through beneath the road. Queenstown appeared similar to Wanaka in its lakeside location and mountain vistas, however it appeared to have been injected with winter sports steroids as the streets were littered with people in ski gear and shops selling affiliated goods.

    Many of our group are staying in Queenstown to ski or snowboard but due to our lack of experience and budget for this we are moving on, deeper south, tomorrow. So tonight we dined and drank with our friends one last time, at least until we return to Queenstown in a week for Pierrick's birthday. We met in the Red Rock for burgers, beer and live music before playing pool and Mario Kart on an N64 console in the corner of the bar (old school kudos).
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  • Bottom Bus - Queenstown to Dunedin

    26. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    On our Kiwi Experience we have the 'Deep South' pass that allows us to travel to the very southern part of New Zealand on the 'Bottom Bus' (having re-read this we realise how much this is an innuendo minefield). However we were delayed in starting our journey due to black ice closing the road into Queenstown, which our bus sat still on for 2-3 hours whilst we did the same on the sofa at our hostel.

    Soon enough however our Kiwi-snowboarding-driver, Reece, picked us up and we were on our way. The bus' diesel engine throbbing and the sun heating our skin as Reece sought to make up lost time on the road.

    We returned through the Kawarau Gorge until the snow capped mountains moved backwards onto the horizon and rolling sheep littered pastures filled the roadside landscape. However no sooner had we departed from the alpine scenery than it returned whiter than before. Snow lay in the fields whilst the mountains drew closer and closer to us. For moments everything on the land became a shade of white, lit by the sun in a clear sky. Then the snow and mountains began to recede leaving tiger stripes of exposed hillside.

    Colours changed again as brown farmland became alpine green and black angry clouds merged in the heavens. Rain pelted the windscreen whilst a crosswind rocked the bus. Engine braking down slalom roads before accelerating hard to crest hilltop bends we slowly made our way to the city of Dunedin.

    Turning the final corner in the dark we were welcomed by the city's lights below. Through the Victorian streets we arrived at our hostel, which sits above a Scottish bar and pool hall. Dunedin has a strong Scottish heritage, being originally founded by the Free Church of Scotland in the 1840s and the name means Edinburgh in Gaelic. We will be here for the next 3 days and there seems to be lots to see and do in this university city.
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  • Dunedin

    27. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Cotton caressed our stirring faces in the receding shadows of dawn. Our spines unfurled and our minds searched for the door out of a sleepy fog. The knowledge that we'd be staying still in one place felt good as we breakfasted on cereal. Sunshine broke through the hillside horizon, striking the kitchen window to dazzle us and expose greasy imprints on the glass.

    After weeks of near constant travel and Alex experiencing some man-flu (boo hoo) there was no plan for the day other than some light 'travel admin' of laundry, shopping and bookings. Our stay in Dunedin approximately marks the halfway point for us in New Zealand after which, aside from a night further south in Invercargill, we will begin to return northward.

    The extra time and decent Wifi has allowed Alex to indulge his love of music on Spotify so here is a well overdue playlist of music (http://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyhas…) -

    Jack Johnson - Banana Pancakes
    Walk The Moon - Shut Up and Dance
    Future Islands - Seasons (Waiting On You)
    Daft Punk - Around The World
    Izzy Bizu - Adam & Eve
    Incubus - Drive
    The Weeknd - Can't Feel My Face
    Thundercat - Them Changes
    Jurassic 5 - Concrete Schoolyard
    David Bowie - Golden Years
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  • Dunedin

    28. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Winter sun continued to sparkle as we took an hour's walk out of Dunedin's city centre and past brick Victorian terraces that make it appear like home. Turning at the Botanical Gardens we headed to the world's steepest residential street, Baldwin Street.

    If you Google/YouTube this street name you'll find a raft of articles/videos to people's efforts to run or race up/down its 38% gradient as well as the city's annual Cadbury Jaffa race where thousands of Jaffas, each sponsored by a paying ticket, are released from the top to tumble to the bottom. Today however it was just us and a handful of other tourists, the more energetic hiking its pavements and the less so driving their cars.

    The gradient is so steep we found ourselves leaning forward onto our toes as we drove our legs forward into the climb. Heads down and pressing on we were gulping shallow breaths as we reached the top. There we found a wall and bench painted with a mural to the street. Sat unassuming on the bench, in white gumboots and with black headphones cupped around his neck, was 63 year old local resident Dave Kernahan.

    We struck up conversation about our travels and his friends and family from the UK and in doing so we learnt that he has been running up and down Baldwin Street for the last 20 years. When asked about this Dave explained that he runs 30 times up and 30 times down the street a day. The street holds a 'Gut Buster' race, which he enters and a quick google search shows he has been noted in a number of news articles (http://edition.cnn.com/2014/03/04/travel/worlds… - http://www.odt.co.nz/your-town/dunedin/169555/6…). Incredible achievements and a pleasant bloke to boot.
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  • Dunedin

    29. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Rain arrived in Dunedin but it didn't dampen our spirits as we briskly walked through the dreary Monday morning in search of street art. We had heard that the the city had endorsed a number of pieces on its walls, which were marked as dots on our map. We found most easily enough and the colour, detail and scale were brilliant. This shouldn't be confused with graffiti tagging, which is ugly and lacks skill. Instead what we witnessed clearly requires significant skill and artistic talent. We think cities should endorse more of this quality work to bring its streets to life.

    After this we headed over to the Otago museum where items from Sir Edmund Hilary's 1953 Everest Expedition were on display. It was an incredible feat, even more so by the fact that it was the 9th British attempt and Hilary was not part of the first team to attempt the summit the morning he and his colleague Tenzig Norgay succeeded. Such was Hilary's admiration for the Sherpas that assisted him in his mission that he spent significant time and money supporting Nepalese communities in the subsequent decades.

    At the very top of the museum we found the 'Animals' Attic', where a cornucopia of Victorian-era taxidermy was displayed. Mammals and birds posed aggressively next to cases of colourful butterflies and insects whilst rows of skulls mingled with jarred specimens. It read like a Victorian house of nature's horrors, which likely disgusted and fascinated its audiences at the time in equal measure. To us with modern sensibilities of animal welfare the array of stuffed death was somewhat unsettling but still fascinating.

    In the evening Pierrick and Graciela (who we sky-dived with in Franz Josef) joined us in Dunedin to travel onward to Invercargill tomorrow. We caught up on each other's news as we ate freshly made salmon and tuna sushi rolls at a nearby cafe. Afterwards we played pool in the subdued lighting of the pool hall under our hostel. Our time in Dunedin was coming to a close and our journey around New Zealand was about to restart.
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  • Bottom Bus - Dunedin to Invercargill

    30. juni 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The dawn sky turned empiric purple to orange rust as we left Dunedin and Massive Attack's 'Teardrop' played on the stereo. We followed logging trucks through a green landscape filled with sheep farms, passing farmers on quad bikes with their dogs shepherding flocks.

    On our way to Invercargill we made a series of stops along the wild southern coast. The first stop was Kaka Point where bull kelp, like giant strands of tagliatelle, lay over the hard wet sand. Only the breathing of the waves and the occasional squawk from a gull could be heard as the water glittered off the sunlight. We hiked up to the lighthouse, which overlooked a rocky outcrop where seals danced amongst the surging white water.

    We moved on to Cannibal Bay, so called because decapitated skeletal remains were found there by early explorers. This is quite plausible as Maori would decapitate the head of their defeated enemy chief before boiling and eating it to obtain the deceased chief's 'mana' or power. We planned to walk along to beach in search of sea lions that be viewed there. However the tide was too high, rushing in to foam at our feet so we could be certain that the beach was impassable.

    After this we went to Curio Bay, where from an exposed outcrop we were thrust sideways by the wind as huge waves charged the coastline, smashing skyward as they met rock face. Again we searched for sea lions but unfortunately saw none. At the nearby petrified forest, so called because the fossilised remains of ancient trees are embedded in the rock, we sought out the rare yellow eyed penguins that nested there.

    Carefully picking our way over rocks slick with sea water and kelp we stood patiently to see if any penguins would appear from the waters. The wind wrapped around us and the sea relentlessly battered rocks on the shoreline but no penguins appeared. Our noses grew cold and our hands numb but still no penguins. Just as we were ready to surrender one solitary penguin threw themselves up out of the surf and waddled across the rocks to the flax lining the bay. We were lucky to be able to see such a rare and shy bird but we felt luckier still to be back in the shelter of our bus and on our way to Invercargill.

    The cold cramped overpriced hostel did little to lift our spirits in the dark wet evening. However it was for only one night and the shared experience brought camaraderie our fellow travellers. Inside sarcastic laughter echoed off the walls whilst outside the wind howled and clouds wept.
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  • Kiwi Exp.-Invercargill to Milford Sound

    1. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Despite travelling in winter and there being times we have been battered by the wind and rain, on days when we have wanted, even needed, the weather to be clear and calm, it has been so. So once again good fortunate literally shone down on us as after the rough weather from Dunedin the skies cleared and the sun shone brightly for our journey to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Milford Sound. However we could not initially realise our luck due to leaving Invercargill in early morning darkness due to the roundtrip back to Queenstown requiring 13 hours.

    Snow white mountains edged closer across the dawn coated vista as the alpine landscape of the previous week began to return into view. Clouds floated under the peaks of the granite giants as we descended into the Fiordland National Park, where Milford Sound is situated. A mist hung over the sun lit valley floor as we examined the Mirror Lakes, where a slight breeze rippled the waters as the mountains were reflected back up at us. The temperature was cold under the shadowed canopy of moss covered trees that are fed by cascading waters from the mountain tops.

    Historically access overland to Milford Sound confounded bureaucrats and explorers for decades. Even when a pass was eventually identified, it was so difficult that only the most capable of climbers could accomplish it. Eventually it was agreed that the only practical way of gaining access would be through, rather than over, the mountains and in 1935 work began on the Homer Tunnel. 1.2km in length, taking nearly 20 years to complete and costing a number of human lives, it was built for the sole purpose of tourism. Once through this testament of human will power we descended toward Milford Sound, which lay shimmering like a steel plate below us. We felt as if we were entering a hidden kingdom as we twisted down the switchback road and 1000ft sheer granite walls towered around us.

    Once down onto the valley floor, we ventured to The Chasm where the full force of the Cleddau River is thrust through a deep slot canyon, its rock face curved and bowled like ice cream run through with a spoon. Its sculpted surface created by rock brought down into the chasm by the river to bounce around inside the canyon like marbles in a washing machine. Blue water gushed under the bridge we stood upon to thunder down into the canyon, filling the air with its roar…
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Milford Sound to Queenstown

    1. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    …Leaving the rushing waters of The Chasm behind us, we took a ferry upon the calmer waters of Milford Sound. In front of us the Mitre Peak rose up, partially cloaked in cloud and blanched in sunlight, to be reflected in the waters of the Sound (or Fiord as this in fact was Milford is but the name as stuck).

    Steadily moving out onto the water we passed waterfalls, large and small that sent white rivets from the mountains down into blue waters below. Low lying cloud slid along the cliff faces, obscuring parts of the mountains whilst sunlight shot through u-shaped canyons to strobe out like the beam of a lantern. We cruised through a natural paradise that due to its location and now world heritage status, had and hopefully would continue to remain untouched by human endeavours. Only the sound of the ferry’s motor boards cutting through the water and the people talking on board could be heard amongst the tranquil silence that accompanied the extraordinary scenes.

    At the mouth of the Sound, where it opened up out into the seemingly never-ending horizon of the Tasman Sea, we turned back to coast past dense rainforest and fauna hanging almost miraculously from the unforgiving granite that dropped straight down into the deep water. We past a small group of seals lazing on rocks before getting as close as safely possible to one of the larger waterfalls that flow down off the mountains, the Stirling Falls. The falls thumped down onto the Sound, sending ripples off in all directions as the ferry was covered in a steady thick mist of water. like an enormous car wash. Those outside on the open decks were soaked through to come back inside dripping with ice cold water.

    We returned to port for the lengthy bus journey back to Queenstown, on which we looked out at the passing landscape as it faded in the dusk. We reflected on how we had been somewhat apprehensive at the length of the journey and questioned, as we had heard others do, whether the experience was worth it. However, having now done so we can gladly say that it was, to experience such a dramatic landscape that words and photographs cannot do justice.
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  • Queenstown

    2. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our marathon of travel between Dunedin and Queenstown via Invercargill and Milford Sound in two days left us more tired than we had realised. Even Alex didn't wake until 8:15am after we had crashed out at 10:00pm last night, which is probably a record for him. We started as we meant to go on - slow. After finding out how little we had done during the day, our Australian dorm-mate, Tom, asked 'what happened to all the sky diving?'. We admitted that everyday can't be a 'skydive' day and that sometimes you just need to kick back.

    We took a walk along the lake esplanade outside our hostel and into Queenstown village where a plethora of international tourists sought out coffee and ski passes. Shabby backpackers rubbed shoulders with the Prada brigade, brought together by the call of the winter slopes. Restaurants, clothing shops and the inevitable Starbucks wrestle for attention as 4x4s and hybrids snake through roundabouts and pelican crossings. Crowds were all the thicker for the area's best snowfall in some time as well as the start of New Zealand and Australian school holidays. The biggest crowd appeared to be outside the burger chain Fergburger. Depending on who you speak to, a Fergburger is the best burger you will ever eat or it is just a good burger well advertised. Eitherway at a 20 minute wait in a cold queue and $20 price tag we'd expect a pretty amazing burger. Nevertheless we might try it if we find the queues have subsided at some point.

    On our way back we spotted a lone brave paragliding out on the lake against the mountain backdrop and granite and white. Paragliding is something we would like to try but we didn'tfancy being up there in this winter climate.

    Back at the hostel we organised our journey back north through New Zealand before spending time to prepare a proper evening meal that isn't always possible due to limited facilities and time when travelling day after day. With content stomachs and minds we took to bed ready for whatever tomorrow would bring.
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  • Queenstown

    3. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Yesterday’s deliberate slow pace helped us recuperate to the point that we were restless for another adventure this morning. After waking to Skype home to wish Alex’s Mum a happy birthday (which was surreal with it being 9:00pm there when we were yet to have breakfast) we set out to hike Te Tapu-nui, a hill overlooking Queenstown with views across Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains. It’s meaning in Maori is ‘a mountain of intense sacredness’ but the first part of the climb was just bloody hard work. Even before reaching the Queenstown Hill Reserve upon which Te Tapu-nui sits, we walked across the village and worked our way up through the streets leading to the reserve’s entrance. Whilst we may have walked up the world’s steepest residential street in Dunedin, the streets we traversed here must be a very close second. We felt as if we were tilting at an almost 45 degree angle as our toes pressed into the ground before us. The psychological effect of this was to make us feel as if the hike would be too much but after a brief stop to catch our breath, we gritted our teeth and slogged on.

    Fortunately once into the reserve, the track levelled somewhat but it was still a steep ascent of 500m to the ‘Basket of Dreams’, which spiritually links you as the walker with the mountain and the future. Our legs wobbled as they found their bearing on the track, we felt almost out of shape having not done any serious hiking since Franz Josef but we eventually found our stride. We moved up through silent pine forest where the damp smell of mud and wood hung. Cornering the switchback trail we came across a meadow of rock cairns of differing sizes left by those who came before us. Judging the progress of our ascent by the increasing sunlight and shrinking height of the pines around us we were soon out into the open, scrambling up the last piece of track before the iron woven sculpture of the ‘Basket of Dreams’. Resting on the cold moss speckled rocks we took in the view before us, contemplating the summit that still stood 400m behind. Although the beginning was hard we were now in our element and quickly moved on to get to the very top.

    The wind blew around us as we left the cover of the pines and our boots squelched in the boggy flanks of the hillside. The track circled its way up to the summit and finally with nothing but blue sky cresting the pathway before us we made the summit. The wind rushed over us and all around us stood mountains whilst below lay Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu. We basked in our achievement before beginning the steady descent back to our hostel, meeting Tom on the way down and encouraging him to keep going to the very top.
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  • Queenstown

    4. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Last night we went out to celebrate Pierrick's birthday. It will sound odd after all the activities we have done but going out for a sit-down meal and drinks is something of a special event on our backpacker budget. Not only was it was Pierrick's birthday but it was also the last night before our little group went its separate ways after a month travelling together. From Auckland up to Cape Reinga and back again before snaking through the North Island into Wellington and back out down the West Coast to Queenstown.

    We went for dinner at a pizzeria where Alex's order of a chicken and avocado salad drew some interested looks but Jamie's order of deep pan pizza was regrettable when it came with a year's supply of cheese and he couldn't finish it. Washed down with beer, wine and tequila we sang happy birthday as the waitress brought out candles precariously balanced on top of a quickly melting ice cream sundae.

    After dinner we went to a bar where Bill Murray watched proceedings from his wall hanging. Strobes splashed colour over dancers as bass reverberated down our spines and off the floorboards. Teapots hung over the bar from which you could drink cocktails but it was tequila that kept our party going. Fire, salt and lemon lingered in our mouths as the late night rolled into the early hours. We stepped out into the cold and said our goodbyes under the stars.

    Earlier in the day we swapped rooms at our hostel as we had two separate bookings. This meant no more affable Aussie, Tom, to share our room with. Instead we now share with German, Patrick, who talks in his sleep (in English incidentally) and snores with the consistency of a Japanese rail network. As a result (and maybe the tequila) neither of us slept very well so today has been 'go-slow' again. We put the finishing touches to our northbound plans whilst watching the world go by, sheltered by the warm glow from the wood burner in our lounge.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Queenstown to Lake Tekapo

    5. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We met our bus to Lake Tekapo with it's aged and moustached driver, Bods, who Alex instantly liked for his casual swearing and for playing Lynyrd Skynyrd's 'Free Bird' as we rolled out of Queenstown.

    Whilst the sky was clear and the sun shining, the weather behind us was not so fair and we needed to get over the Lindis Pass before snow came in and potentially blocked our way through. However we made good time even with the highly questionable driving of some locals (Bods was quite direct in what he thought about this) and we entered the shadows of the Lindis Pass. From the summit you could see down into the valley below, which was largely covered in snow but for streaks of exposed earth. Like on our journey down to Dunedin, this made the hillsides appear like the flanks of a snow tiger.

    We moved past the deep blue of partially frozen salmon fishing lakes before arriving before the proud aquamarine of Lake Tekapo. Upon the shore stood the Church of the Good Shepherd, overlooking the waters that stretched out to a distant shoreline where Mount Cook imperiously held back snow clouds on its shoulders.

    The church was originally and largely built using materials within a 5km radius (although wood used in the construction had to be brought in from further out as none grew locally). It is of no fixed denomination so any religious ceremony can be held there, reflecting the ecletic religions of New Zealand. The scenery is apparently once of the most oil painted in the country and the land around the church was purchased and gifted to the local council to ensure no one else built there.

    We later attempted to hike up Mount John for broader views across the lake and mountains but ice on the trail forced us to concede that it was too unsafe to do. Instead on the way back down we found ourselves helping a couple in search of their two young daughters, who we eventually found hunting for a rabbit, happily oblivious to their parents having kittens over their absence.

    Due to reading poor reviews we had low expectations for the hostel at our bus stop but our efforts to find alternative accommodation were thwarted by school holiday demand. Furthermore when we sought a double bed rather than a dorm at the hostel we also found no vacancy. Yet our luck changed when after arranging with another couple, Northern Irish doctors, John and Natalie, to share a 4 bed dorm we found ourselves in a 'family villa' with two double bedrooms, our own bathroom, kitchen and Sky TV for the same price as a double bed. It was all very civilised compared to the usual hostel experience and we sat up sharing stories of travel and life back home over beer and wine. As the Kiwis say 'Sweet as'.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Lake Tekapo to Christchurch

    6. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The mountains slipped off the horizon as we entered the Canterbury Plains on our way to Christchurch. Driving through this great farming belt Bods explained that there not enough farmers in New Zealand to farm the available land so workers from overseas are arriving to do this. New Zealand certainly appears to offer a good quality of life with its free education, healthcare and array of benefits, however taxation and the cost of living can be high. Yet as Bods put it 'if you want all these things, someone has to pay for it'.

    In 2011 Christchurch was struck by a magnitude 6.3 earthquake which took the lives of 185 people, injured thousands more and severely damaged the city's buildings to the extent that huge swathes of the eastern part of the city no longer stand. The city is now slowly rebuilding itself but despite the large presence of construction there is still a heavy sense of loss in the large open areas where buildings once stood. Although other buildings remain standing they are not habitable and lay victim to graffiti, dust and decay.

    The loss is most poignant at the memorial to the 185 people killed by the quake. Titled '185 Empty White Chairs' it demonstrates the individuality and diversity of those who died. From babies to the elderly, from New Zealanders to Europeans and Asians. As the quake struck at midday when people were outside many were killed by buildings and debris falling onto the streets.

    Nearby stands 'The Cardboard Cathedral', which has been constructed as a transitional place of worship following Christchurch Cathedral being severely damaged. As it's titled indicates, it is partially constructed using cardboard tubing coated in polyurethane. The stained glass triangular panels at the building's face incorporate images from stained glass in the Christchurch Cathedral.

    Historically Christchurch was built to be the most English city outside of England and the architecture and street names reflect this. Unfortunately now it is mostly the street names that remain. Many of the historical structures have been claimed by the quake and those that remain are dressed in steel to keep them standing. Art projects have sprung up to fill some of the open space, which brings a sense of hope for the city's future.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Christchurch to Kaikoura

    7. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    The sombre memories of Christchurch drifted through the mind's eye as we drove along a cold damp East Coast to Kaikoura. We travelled on New Zealand's equivalent of the M1 but it looked more like an A road. Closing in on our destination the road squeezed between cliffs and the Pacific Ocean, turning with the curve of the coastline, going through tunnels when the cliffs refused to give way.

    We passed a statue to Captain Charles Upham, a name neither of us recognised but learnt was New Zealand's most famous soldier and one of only three men to have ever won the Victoria Cross twice (highest military award for valour to British and Commomwealth forces). Captain Upham received these decorations during his service in the Second World War and reading about this and his general character highlighted what a remarkable individual he was. After the war and returning to New Zealand, NZ$10,000 was raised for him to buy a farm. Upham refused and used it as a scholarship fund to send ex-servicemen's sons to university. (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/mili…)

    A steady patter of rain coated Kaikoura as we arrived at our hostel. With most activity either called off or made prohibitive by the steady rain we chose instead to bask in the warmth of the hostel's lounge where blues played from the stereo and wood crackled in the burner. As we lounged Alex found Spotify was finally listing ACDC's albums so he was as happy as a pig in shit for the rest of the afternoon. Here is another playlist of music that has accompanied our journey back north so far (http://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyhas… - this could have been all ACDC had Alex made his discovery in Queenstown) -

    Hozier - Jackie and Wilson
    Rae Morris - Love Again
    Youngblood Hawke - We Come Running
    Kate Tempest - The Beigeness
    Oh Wonder - Technicolour Beat
    Youth Club - People
    Eliza and the Bear - Friends
    Unknown Mortal Orchestra - Can't Keep Checking My Phone
    Sunset Sons - Remember
    Martin Luke Brown - Nostaligia
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Kaikoura to Wellington

    8. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    We continued northward along the coastal road, out of Kaikoura and toward Picton, from where we would take the Interislander ferry back to Wellington. On the rocks between the road and the ocean basked hundreds of adult seals, many pointing their noses upward to the rising sun. Behind them the coast rose straight up to mountains where a fresh dusting of snow lay like icing sugar on top of a cake.

    We stopped at Ohau Point to hike up to a waterfall where dozens of seal pups played in its pool. They twisted and splashed in the water, their coats a soft grey before entering and a slick black when exiting. Their dry fur appeared to radiate a softness that you felt without touching and their black pearl eyes gazed back at us from the water and rocks.

    The pups access the pool by a small stream that connects to the ocean and the waterfall acts as a natural nursery for them whilst their parents go out to hunt. Although we have already seen seals during our time in New Zealand, it was a memorable experience seeing such creatures so close in the wild.

    Onward we travelled to our ferry and the weather reported heavy swells for the crossing. Given the seasickness that we had both experienced on the crossing South we came prepared with seasickness tablets and a plan to remain downstairs at the back of the boat. True to forecast, the crossing was rough as we moved out into the Cook Straight. The ferry shuddered as if braking hard as its hull battled with the swell. Rolling waves rocked the boat to stagger passengers and roll table top items. All the while Kiwi passengers cheered on their gods in black as televisions showed the All Blacks playing Samoa.

    Fortunately the tablets worked brilliantly and for all the drama caused by the sea we came through unscathed. Walking the streets of Wellington brought a sense of deja vous. Although we were last in the city 3 weeks ago, it felt longer with everything we had done. Neither would we linger as tomorrow we would travel further North to continue to final stages of our New Zealand adventure.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Wellington to Taupo

    9. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    Although the forecast reported that the weather in Taupo was fine, it was cold and wet in Wellington and would get progressively worse as we ventured further North. Uncharacteristically the hills surrounding Wellington had received a snow fall overnight, much to the bemusement of adults and excitement of children. It appears that New Zealand is experiencing a particularly cold winter so far and freshly sheared sheep tip toed through frosted pastures. Soon we entered a dull white scenery where clouds cloaked the sky and snow coated the ground. Black cattle wandered, their breath steaming on the air, to create a mono landscape.

    The weather caused the Desert Road, which squeezes between the Tongariro National Park and the Kaimanawa Forest Park, to close forcing us to detour around the Tongariro National Park. As we drove through the wild landscape the snow receded and the sun appeared above us. We passed a collection of old military buildings used until the early 1970s for New Zealand’s program of conscription. Rather than abandon the buildings after conscription ceased, under the promotion of Sir Edmund Hilary, they and many others around the country were converted to accommodate school trips so children could experience the New Zealand countryside and its nature. Primary and secondary schoolchildren across New Zealand will attend these camps 2-3 times during their education and participate in a range of outdoor activities.

    When we stopped at a lookout above Lake Taupo the temperature remained cold but the skies were clearing to expose the sun, which threw its light across the waters, reflecting the bright blue colour back into the atmosphere. Gone was the snow, replaced by the lush green of forests and fields, nurtured by winter rains.

    On our way into Taupo we booked ourselves onto an expedition of the Tongariro Crossing. This is considered one of the most popular one day hikes in New Zealand, being 20km one way and taking 6-8 hours to complete. We had wanted to do this when we were last in Taupo but had been prevented by severe weather closing the trail. Whilst snow showers and high winds closed it today and tomorrow, the forecast indicates that it could be safe to traverse on Saturday. However we will be unable to confirm if the expedition will go ahead until after 2:00pm tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
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  • Taupo

    10. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today centred around waiting to find out if we would be able to undertake the Tongariro Crossing or not. When we made the provisional booking yesterday we heard that after several days of it being closed by poor weather, the forecast for the weekend looked, quote 'real good'. So it was with anticipation that we waited, which turned into a restlessness that we could not abate as we did not want to exert ourselves by going out of Taupo before a potential 20km hike over alpine conditions the following day. Announcements for the crossings are at 2:00pm the day before so when the time came around we telephoned through to see what the verdict was.

    Unfortunately despite clear skies and sunshine, snow showers and strong winds increased the avalanche risk to an extent that it was unsafe and the crossing for Saturday was cancelled. It was frustrating to wait for disappointing news, compounded by the fact that realistically we had run out of time left to wait a further day on the chance that the crossing would be open on Sunday. However we cannot complain as we have had excellent luck with the weather and activities that are dependent on it during our time in wintery New Zealand.

    Determined to still undertake a day's hike we spent the remainder of the afternoon formulating a Plan B for tomorrow. This still involves attempting to hike 20km but around the coastline of Lake Taupo rather than through the Tongariro National Park.
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  • Taupo

    11. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Frost coated windscreens and pathways as we stepped out into the morning. Our breath fumed on the air and the thermometer read -1. Yet the sky was without a cloud and the sun gave a weak warmth to our skin. As we could not undertake the Tongariro Crossing we chose instead 'The Lions Walk', a 20km round-trip trail along the coastline of Lake Taupo southward to Five Mile Bay.

    Joggers, cyclists and dog walkers passed us on the trail as the lake lapped at its shores. Steam rose off the wake as the cold water found the thermal springs beneath the sands. Such was the warmth generated by this that we saw children paddling in the shallows. Black swans with brash red beaks graced the small coves as ducks and small birds sought out food. Willows hung their empty branches as if seeking reflection from below.

    In the distance, laden with a cream of snow, stood the peaks of Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe. Looking out across the vast expanse of the lake we couldn't help but wish that we were there instead. However the calm of the coastline with the slow warmth of the sun gave an illusion to the true conditions of the crossing. The last weather forecast we saw showed a wind chill of -15, only rising to -10 by the afternoon.

    Stopping for a short lunch at Five Mile Bay we were soon on our way back to Taupo, which was then hidden from view by a small peninsula of land. On the return we walked into the face of the sun, which sparkled its reflection on the lake. Our legs ached and our bodies sore when we finally returned to the start of the trail. We completed it in under 5 hours, which included breaks. We may not have experienced the epic landscape of the Tongariro Crossing but we at least experienced something of the physical effort required by covering a similar distance in such a time.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Taupo to Rotorua

    12. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Last night we caught up with Jamie and Abi over beers. They had arrived in Taupo on their way back North after we left them in Queenstown a week ago. They like us, had to be back in Auckland for their flight out of New Zealand so we will again travel together until then. We had left them drinking last night so saw them worse for wear this morning on the bus. Fortunately for everyone it was only an hour's drive from Taupo to Rotorua so by mid-morning we found ourselves checked into our hostel.

    Due to staying in the Maori village on our travel southward we had not had the chance to explore Rotorua. However as described in our previous posts, the area is renowned for its geothermal activity, which amongst many things causes the air around the town to stink of eggs. This is good if you want to get away with a cheeky trouser cough on the bus.

    With our bodies weary from yesterday's hike we chose to visit 'Hell's Gate', where for nearly 800 years the local Maori have bathed, relaxed and healed in the area's unique geothermal muds and acidic sulphurous pools.

    After hiring towels and swim gear (we had learnt that the mud could discolour and cause your own to stink of sulphur even after washing) we tentatively submerged ourselves into the warm grey brown soup of the mud pools. Scrapping the mud from the base of the pool we coated our skin until it hardened and cracked in the shining sun above us. Although we had arrived layered in hats and coats, we felt very warm in the pools with just our swimwear. You can debate the actual healing qualities but it was fun to play in the mud.

    Afterwards we showered off the mud and lounged in 40 degree spa pools where the steam wisped off the surface. Behind lay the geothermal park itself and you could not have been closer to the sources of the pools we were bathing in. We sat simmering until our fingers pruned and the heat made us drowsy. After a further shower to rinse off the sulphur and wake up, we returned to our hostel in an almost dream-like state as the aches we had felt were greatly diminished.

    After dinner we sat with the hostel owner, Gerard, and talked about many things, including Trek America, as he drove for them during the 1980s. Having travelled extensively and being a natural story teller meant time with Gerard flew by quickly and left us wishing that we could stay longer.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Rotorua to Auckland

    13. juli 2015, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Wrapped up against the morning chill we left our brilliant hostel and its owners to board our final bus back to Auckland. Driving through relatively flat green farming country, it was a contrast to the white mountainous landscapes we have become accustomed to during our time on the South Island. Slowly making our way through the traffic into Auckland reminded us of how busy it was compared to the rest of the country, even the capital Wellington. One third of the country's entire population is condensed into the city and its suburbs.

    Driving through the city streets we saw many people wrapped up against the cold but for us it was comparatively warm to what we had experienced over the previous weeks. It was evocative of our great experiences in New Zealand to be back at our old hostel and pass places where we had first met Pierrick, Jamie and Abi.

    As it was Jamie and Abi's last night in New Zealand before heading home to Manchester we went out for dinner at Monsoon Poon where we ate Vietnamese summer rolls, Thai jumbo prawns, Indian butter chicken and Nasi Goreng (think Indonesian paella), all washed down with beer and cocktails. It might not have been Kiwi cuisine but it was a great way to celebrate the end of our adventure together as well as a taster of South Asian cuisine to come.
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