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Khouèng Xékong

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    • TravelerLaos
      1
      1
      Day 52

      Pakxe Loop Day 2 - Waterfalls

      June 19, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      (english below)

      Heute standen Wasserfälle und eine Berg- und Talfahrt, auch emotional auf dem Programm.

      Am Abend war der Höhepunkt: weil ich mich zeitlich komplett verschätzt habe bin ich im dunkeln rumgefahren und wusste noch nicht wo ich schlafe. Im Dunkeln fahren heißt hier unter anderen: Gegenverkehr auf der gleichen Fahrbahn ohne Licht.

      So schön Bilder auch aussehen, hier im Süden habe ich mich bisher nicht so wohl gefühlt und wollte zwischenzeitlich nur nach Hause. Aber wir schauen mal was der morgige Tag für mich bereit hält.
      ___________________________

      Today there were waterfalls and an ascent and descent, also emotionally on the program.

      At the evening was the highlight: because I completely misjudged my time, I drove around in the dark and didn't know where I was going to sleep. Driving in the dark means, among other things, oncoming traffic on the same lane without lights.

      As nice as the pictures look, I haven't felt so comfortable here in the south and in the meantime I just wanted to go home. But let's see what tomorrow has in store for me.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerLaos
      2
      Day 54

      Pakxe Loop Day 4 - Homestay again

      June 21, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      (english below)

      Nach einer erholsamen Nacht und einer „Dusche“ mit Skorpion im Raum, stand morgens eine fast 4 stündige Tour durch die Kaffeeplantage und das Dorf an. Außerdem hat uns Captain Hook viel über die Pflanzen und ihre medizinische Wirkung erzählt.

      Was man so über das Dorf erfährt, öffnet nochmal die Augen, woher viele Probleme im Land rühren und wieso es so schwer ist, etwas dagegen zu tun. Ein KLEINER Auszug der Informationen:
      - in Laos leben ca. 165 Ethnien. Die meisten sprechen andere Sprachen, sodass zwei Dörfer, die nebeneinander liegen, sich im Zweifel nicht verständigen können.
      - bis vor ca. 20-25 Jahren dachte man in dem Dorf noch, die Erde ist eine Scheibe. Als Hook aus der Schule mit einer anderen Aussage kam, wurde er als Lügner abgestempelt.
      - für die Älteren gibt es nach wie vor nur zwei Länder: Laos und Ausland. In Ausland gibt es eine Firma, die Geld druckt und den Ausländern gibt, damit sie reisen können. Daher haben sie weiße Haut, denn sie müssen nicht auf dem Feld arbeiten.
      - es gibt kein schriftlich übergebenes Wissen, da die meisten nicht lesen und schreiben können, alles wird mündlich überliefert.
      - im Dorf heiraten die meisten ihre Cousins oder Cousinen, so ist es der Brauch. Bis zur letzten Generation haben die Eltern die Ehe vereinbart, geheiratet wurde oft schon mit 5. Das erste Kind kommt im Durchschnitt mit 15 Jahren. Heute haben die Kinder wohl ein etwas besseres mitbestimmungsrecht.
      - Kinder machen die Familie arm oder reich. Nicht etwa emotional, sondern materiell. Hatte man viele Mädchen, wird man reich, denn sie werden mit der Ehe defacto als Arbeitskraft „verkauft“ an die Familie des Bräutigams.
      - Bildung ist nicht so wichtig, viel wichtiger ist es, dass die Kinder auf dem Feld mit helfen.
      - das Verhältnis zu Tieren ist schwierig. Einmal im Jahr wird ein Welpe geopfert und auf grausame Weise getötet. Und bei den Pflanzen wurde uns auch gezeigt, was man ins Wasser machen kann, damit es nicht so stinkt, wenn man z.B. Katze kocht.

      Puh, das war viel. Vor allem, weil ich versuche nichts zu verurteilen, sondern einzig und allein zur Kenntnis zu nehmen. Nichtsdestotrotz gefällt es mir richtig gut, hier mitten im traditionellen Leben zu sein, dass ich eine weitere Nacht bleibe.

      Am Nachmittag bin ich mit Naz und zwei der Tourteilnehmer von heute morgen noch eine Runde an den Wasserfall zum baden, bevor am Abend wieder gemeinsam gekocht wurde.
      ___________________________

      After a restful night and a "shower" with a scorpion in the room, an almost 4-hour tour through the coffee plantation and the village was scheduled in the morning. In addition, Captain Hook told us a lot about the plants and their medicinal properties.

      What you learn about the village opens your eyes again to where many problems in the country come from and why it is so difficult to do something against them. A SMALL excerpt of the information:
      - About 165 ethnic groups live in Laos. Most of them speak other languages, so two villages that are next to each other cannot, if in doubt, communicate.
      - until about 20-25 years ago people in the village still thought the earth was flat. When Hook came home from school with a different statement, he was branded a liar.
      - for the older hinds there are still only two countries: Laos and abroad. In Abroad there is a company that prints money and gives it to foreigners so they can travel. Therefore they have white skin because they don't have to work in the fields.
      - There is no knowledge handed down in writing, since most of them cannot read and write, everything is handed down orally.
      - in the village most of them marry their cousins, it is the custom. Up to the last generation, the parents agreed to marry, marriage was often already at the age of 5. The first child comes at the age of 15 in average. Today the children probably have a slightly better right to co-determination.
      - Children make the family poor or rich. Not emotionally, but materially. If you have a lot of girls, you become rich, because with the marriage they are de facto “sold” as labor to the groom’s family.
      - Education is not that important, it is much more important that the children help out in the fields.
      - the relationship to animals is difficult. Once a year a puppy is sacrificed and cruelly killed. And with the plants, we were also shown what you can do in the water so that it doesn't stink so badly, for example when you're cooking a cat.

      Phew, that was a lot. Mainly because I try not to judge anything, just to take note. Nonetheless, I really like being here in the middle of traditional life that I'm staying another night.

      In the afternoon I went to the waterfall for a swim with Naz and two of the tour participants from this morning before we cooked together again in the evening.      Read more

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    • TravelerWorld tour
      1
      Day 191

      Bolaven Plateau Loop

      August 30, 2022 in Laos ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

      Got on a bike to visit what they call the Bolaven Plateau loop, surrounded by waterfalls, coffee plantations and ethinc minorities. Visited the famous and gorgeous Tad Fad waterfall from above and hiked to Tad Yuan, which was a challenging and unclear route. After a long journey and mudd everywhere arrived to the second impressive waterfall. After this walked to Tad Chip, which was still closed so there was no parking to go there by bike and got completely attacked by leeches because it was completely abandoned. After this and a lot of rain, continued my journey, stopped for some local coffee (tried typica coffee, which was very sweet and delicious) and continued my way through the minority villages until Capitan Hook homestay. The arrival, totally shocking and amazing, pigs, chicken, naked kids running around a very simple wooden made small village. No road no nothing, only empty spaces where you could find yourself. Everyone pointing towards a direction, until I arrived to this house, that looked exactly like all the others. There, I was greeted by Hook. The place looked so simple and real that was just a blast, not even a mirror in the whole place. He was building a new bed with bamboo, and invited me to go cook dinner with his wife. All the equipment were a small stone oven, a casserole and some veggies. But when we ate... How amazing the food was! I was the only guest in the place, but there was all the time kids running from side to side. Apparently, in front of the guest house, there was the family house, where 25 family members lived (which is not a lot, because before they used to be 200). Chatted with Hook, his wife and his sister for a while and learned a lot about so many things (Hook was a really really intelligent, interesting and open minded person) tried their bamboo pipe (which apparently they start smoking at 2 in this village, because they believe it protects and scares bad spirits) and went to bed after my longlong day. On the next day, woke up and learned how to make sticky rice with his wife, and had, again, an amazing breakfast with some coffee made with a traditional bamboo filter (most things in the village where made with bamboo). And again, the food was soooooo delicious, probably ate better in this place than for the past months. Then had a private tour that lasted for about two hours (and only for 1€!!!) Where I learned so much about the history of coffee, its process and its several applications, all the medicinal plants that they used in the village and the traditions and lifestyle of this minority village, such as their religion (they are animists) and their very different traditions and rituals. For example, you can't take pictures of people in here because then you are stealing their soul, you can't knock on doors because it gives bad luck, you can't give candy to children because if they die months later, the parents will believe that you poisoned them, they think white people stay white because they don't work and only spend money, and that we have big noses because we eat a lot of bread, they are also sure that the earth is flat and make woman give birth in the forest and make them cross a fire to enter to get cleaned. And sososo many other things about this interesting ethnical village and their very different approach of life.
      On the next day, headed towards Fandee guesthouse and visited two more waterfalls and another village, and relaxed in the peaceful environment. Even though the drive wasn't as amazing as expected, the destinations where quite interesting, and even more to feel like I was the only tourist on the whole area.

      📍Essentials: Tad Fad waterfall (make sure that you do it on a nice clear day), Tad Yuan waterfall (you can trek from Tad Fad, but the hike is pretty difficult, slippery, steep and some points it felt like you were out of the track), Tad Chip cave waterfall (it was closed so it looked a bit abandoned, but still beautiful, it looked like with less water you could reach behind the waterfall), Capitan Hook tour
      🍴 Food: Jhai coffee (beautiful chill place with amazing homemade coffee, good spot for a coffee break)
      💡Travelling tips: 📢 Beware there's so many leeches everywhere on the treks, bring a lighter with you, you'll need it to take them out of your skin quite often
      💡Travelling tips: apparently there is a big problem with stealing bikes in Laos, so you always have to leave the bike in a parking (which is to say, you always need to pay to leave your bike), and double lock it. This is quite annoying because, instead of letting you enjoy the freedom of bikes, you end up trapped having to walk to many places (or be unable to visit many others) so your bike is safe.
      🏠 Accomodation: Capitan Hook (realrealrealreal local experience, dinner and breakfast included), Famdee Island (french owned place, food is small and expensive though, but really chill place with wood tents and tree houses, there is a water park which kinda destroys the vibe as well in my opinion)      Read more

    • TravelerLaos
      1
      Day 53

      Pakxe Loop Day 3 - Homestay

      June 20, 2023 in Laos ⋅ 🌩️ 27 °C

      (english below)

      Heute habe ich meinen Weg wie geplant zurück Richtung Süden im Loop fortgesetzt, aber etwas fühlte sich komisch an. Also bin ich zurück zu dem Homestay, an dem ich gestern vorbei bin weil ich dachte der Tag ist noch so lang und ich könnte doch den nächsten Homestay erreichen.

      Und was soll ich sagen, im Dorf angekommen fühlte ich mich plötzlich wieder wohl, nicht wie die Tage zuvor. Begrüßt wurde ich direkt von einer ganzen Taube Kindern, die so gar nicht schüchtern sind.

      Gemeinsam mit Naz, einer Volunteer aus dem Iran, sind wir den Sonnenuntergang am zweiten Guesthouse ansehen gegangen und haben später alle zusammen gekocht. In der Nacht hatte ich zwar erst etwas Angst, da wie vor dem schlafen gehen mit dem Gastgeber über giftige Schlangen gesprochen haben, habe aber trotzdem geschlafen wie ein Baby.
      ___________________________

      Today I continued my way back south direction und the loop as planned, but something felt weird. So I'm back to the homestay I passed yesterday because I thought the day was still so long and I could reach the next homestay.

      And what can I say, when I arrived in the village I suddenly felt good again, not like the days before. I was greeted directly by a whole group of children who are not at all shy.

      Together with Naz, a volunteer from Iran, we went to watch the sunset at the second guesthouse and later we all cooked together. At night I was a bit scared because we talked to the host about poisonous snakes before going to bed, but I still slept like a baby.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerLaos
      Day 3

      Ban Kok Phung Tai

      April 21, 2023 in Laos ⋅ 🌧 34 °C

      Mit fast 7 Millionen Einwohnern gibt es in Laos über 100 ethnische Gruppen, die sich in 4 Familien gliedern lassen, von denen jede ihren eigenen Dialekt spricht und ihre eigenen Bräuche und religiösen Ansichten pflegt.

      In Laos gibt es daher auch eine Vielzahl an Dörfern, die sehr abgelegen liegen und sehr unbeeinflusst von der restlichen Welt leben. 🫠
      Im Dorf Ban Kok Phung Tai des Stammes Katu bietet Mr Hook Führungen an und erzählt von seinem Volk und deren Leben.

      Die Auffassungen der Menschen hier sind komplett verschieden von unserem westlichen Verständnis und erinnern teilweise an vergangene Zeiten. Die Bewohner des Dorfes glauben beispielsweise an dunkle und helle Magie und wer Fehler nach Auffassung des Guru (eine Art Bürgermeister) begeht, bringt Unheil ins Dorf. 🧙‍♂️

      Mr Hook ist einer der wenigen, der das Dorf verlassen hat, um zu studieren. Später wurde er unter einem Vorwand zurück ins Dorf gelockt und von seinen Eltern noch am Ankunftstag verheiratet. Er erzählte uns, dass er heute seine Fehler einsieht und es ihm Leid täte, Unheil ins Dorf gebracht zu haben.

      Die Männer, die es sich leisten können, haben hier mehrere Frauen. 😅 und auch Minderjährige werden gerne mit alten Männern verheiratet (teilweise 14 jährige mit 60 jährigen Männern).
      Abgesehen davon praktizieren sie das „interessante“ Konzept, dass nur Frauen arbeiten und die Männer währenddessen den ganzen Tag Alkohol trinken und Bong rauchen. 🙈

      Die Kinder im Dorf gehen erst seit wenigen Jahren zur Schule. Das ist vermutlich auch der Grund, warum viele der Menschen Ansichten vertreten, die aus europäischer Sicht schon lange überholt sind. Zum Beispiel sind die Bewohner überzeugt, dass die Erde eine Scheibe sei und Fotografie die Seele der Menschen zerstöre. 😅

      Die Katu haben teilweise Smartphones und ich frage mich zugegebener Maßen schon etwas, wie man mit Zugang zum Internet immer noch an solch absurden Auffassungen und Meinungen festhalten kann. Das sagt sich als Außenstehender natürlich leicht dahin. Aber wenn man mit anderen Grundsätzen aufwächst, stellt man diese offensichtlich auch nicht so einfach einfach in Frage.

      Nach solchen Erlebnissen wird mit immer mehr bewusst, wie privilegiert wir in Europa doch sind
      Und das alleine durch unsere Geburt an einem anderen Ort…      Read more

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    • Kayleigh BuswellBackpacking 2015
      Day 42

      Laos - The Bolaven Plateau Loop - day 2

      December 15, 2015 in Laos ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

      I woke up around 7am, grabbed my blanket and went to snooze on the hammock outside and listen to the waterfall. It gets really chilly here in the evenings and mornings so i decided to set off around 8.30 before the sun got too hot!
      My plan was to head to a homestay called Tayicsua which was around 133km from Tad Lo. I stopped to get some breakfast on the way at a small road side cafe. The owner couldnt speak any english but we sort of got by with sign language. I had noodle soup (again) but this time it had meat in it and it made me feel a bit sick. I think i am offically a vegitarian! They also had the cutest twin baby girls who were only 10 months old, i could have stayed there all day with them!
      The first waterfall i stopped at was called Tad Faèk which took me forever to find! It was only small but very peacful there. I was the only person there. You could rent a tube and float along the water but it wasnt very clean so i gave it a miss and headed to the next waterfall, Tad Houa Krone. This place had a nice restuarant and cafe so i sat and tried a Loas coffee before going to explore. The waterfall was dried up in alot of places so you could walk on top of it, it was huge and in rainy season you have to walk around it as the water flows over the whole thing.
      I carried on the journey to the next waterfall Tad Katamok. I didnt realise the next part would take me up into the moutains. I seemed to be driving for ages before i found it and this had to be the best waterfall i had seen yet. It was huge, really amazing to see something so hidden away. Unfortunately you couldnt get down to the bottom but to see it from up high was enough.
      It was getting late and my fule was begining to run low so I headed for the guesthouse. I had been told to take the new road as the other one was really bad but the new road was 40 mins longer! So i took the old road. I have never seen pot holes like it! Literally canyons on the road. I passed a few little villages but didnt manage to find anywhere to get petrol and there was no sign of the guesthouse. I kept going and finally i saw the sign for Tad Tayicsua. The guesthouse was at the top of a mountain with around 6 bungalows looking over 5 waterfalls. The views were amazing. It was run by a Laos lady called Natalia and her family. She said the rooms werent ready yet and to go see the waterfalls. It was a bit of a hike getting down the mountain but i managed to see 4 out of the 5 waterfalls and they were really breathtaking. It was a bit of a struggle getting back up though as i had to literally rock climb in some places. It was alot easier going down! I got back caked in mud and ready for shower! Natalia told me my room was ready, the staff were taking a shower in the river and i could join them or there were hot showers near the bungalow. I chose the latter! It was nice having a hot shower, i cant remember the last time i had one. Then I sat in the guesthouse for the evening, Natalia made me veggie fried rice which was the best ive had yet! She told me that her family run the area along with the government and they replant trees and keep it tidy. She didnt like miserable people and told me if anyone comes without smiling or asks for discount she turns them away, she wants people to come and enjoy the area not just to sleep for a night and leave. She was a bit crazy but funny, she kept playing the harmonica to her dog so it would sing and insisted that he loved it. She also had a little girl working for her who must have been no older than 12. She said both her parents had died and her uncle was trying to sell her as a prostitute so natalia has her work and stay with her so shes safe. Its so sad to think the world can be such a sick place!
      I was told There was a tent set up inside the bugalow as it got really cold in the evening. I didnt realise how cold it would get!! Luckily i was supplied with lots of blankets. My buglalow was next to the river so i fell asleep to the sound of the waterfall. Im enjoying having time being around nature and out of the cities. There are lots of new sounds, plants, insects and animals i am learning about. Its very a calming and stress free place!      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Khouèng Xékong, Khoueng Xekong, 세콩 주

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