• Lynyrd
  • Lynyrd

Munich to Passau to Vienna

A 10-day adventure by Lynyrd Read more
  • Trip start
    August 12, 2026

    On the road again

    August 12 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 93 °F

    TSAPre isn't as fast as it used to be but got to DIA way too early so not an issue. Having an expensive sandwich and my first and last drink of the trip, although I might have to try a hefeweizen or two in Austria. It's weird not pulling a large dive bag through the airport, I'm traveling with a carryon and backpackRead more

  • Munich

    August 13 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    After a 10 hour flight I'm in Munich. On the flight I met a nice woman from Poland who was returning home from visiting her sisters who live in Austin Texas. She invited me to visit her in Poland. Getting through immigration isa two step process meaning standing in two long lines. Heading to my hotel and hopefully finding some lunch.Read more

  • Beer for breakfast

    August 13 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    The trip to my hotel was interesting. Much like DIA their airport is a distance from the city so a bit of a drive through farm land to get to Munich proper. We should get these guys to build roads for us. From the back seat I could see how fast we were going and at first glance I saw we were going 155. I realized after the initial shock that was kilometers/hour but still around 95 mph. It took both of us to find the hotel, we circled the block a couple of times before figuring out it was down an alley. Even though I was early my room was ready and the hotel clerk let me check in. She also recommended a place I could walk to for lunch. I'm not sure if I heard her directions correctly but got lost but Google maps saved the day. I didn't realize until I got there that it was a real Bier Garden! It was an outside place with lots of trees for shade and maybe 200 tables. I had cheese sausage, potato salad and wheat beer. All were good but my body still on Colorado time was trying to figure out why I was having beer for breakfast.

    My room is very nice but no AC! and it's very warm here today. It's funny what we take for granted. Also no in room coffee maker.
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  • Shandy or Diesel?

    August 13 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 75 °F

    If you think this weissbier looks a bit dark you would be 💯 correct. This is known as a diesel, wheat beer and coke. Shandies are beer with lemonade, ginger ale or some other juice mixed in. I was worried about the beer ruining a perfectly good Coke but was pleasantly surprised. When I played rugby in the Philippines we did something similar with San Miguel beer and 7Up.Read more

  • Deutsches Museum

    August 14 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    This morning I visited the Deutsches Museum, founded in 1903 by engineer Oskar von Miller, and is one of the world's largest science and technology museums. Located on an island in Munich's Isar River, it houses exhibits covering aviation, astronomy, mining, physics, and early computing. Visitors can see historic aircraft, submarines, and a planetarium, along with interactive displays that demonstrate scientific concepts firsthand. I somehow missed the submarines but the aircraft and rocket exhibits where very interesting. One highlight was a staff member playing an old pipe organ in the music instrument's exhibit.Read more

  • The Glockenspiel: Munich's Daily Little Drama

    August 14 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    In the middle of Marienplatz, the tower of the New Town Hall puts on a show most tourists don't expect: bells ringing, and 32 bronze figures acting out scenes from Munich's past.
    The performance plays out on two levels. Up top, knights joust on horseback, reenacting a royal wedding from 1568. Below them, coopers dance with barrels — a nod to a tradition from the 1500s, when barrel makers danced through the streets to reassure people the plague had passed and it was safe to go outside again. The whole thing has been running since 1908, and it still draws a crowd every single day.Read more

  • Das Boot

    August 15 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Ok, not a submarine.

    I woke up this morning stressed about the travel day ahead of me, Not sure why, I have navigated the trains, subways and buses in Japan without issue and now we have the Internet, GPS navigation, phone apps and AI to hold our hand. How did I manage to travel in the dark time before all these conveniences? Turned out fine, I had fun and met some people along the way. Must be finally coming out of my shell.

    I picked my hotel because it was right next to Munich 's main train station, five minute walk from hotel to train platform. I got to the platform way early, my timed dry run the evening before helped me walk directly to the right spot. I must have looked like a local who knew what I was doing because a woman came up to me and was asking me a string of frantic questions, in German of course and threw up her hands in despair when she realized by the look on my face I had no clue what she was asking. The train arrived and because it was the end/beginning of the line a steady flow of passengers was like the flood waters after a dam break. I saw a tiny woman, who had to be at least 90, wade into the human flood, bucking the current so I jumped in right behind her as she parted the water like her younger brother, Moses. We finally cleared the arriving throng and I found my car, but was stopped by the closed doors until I saw someone walk up, press a button to open the doors, walk in and sit down. Problem solved, again by tailgating. Two women and another couple followed suit, they were new to this also. The couple was from Canada and the women were from Spain, but one now lives in Florida and regularly visits her son in Boulder! Because of track maintenance the train doesn't go all the way to Passau, so we had to transfer to a bus. I knew about the transfer and that we had only 10 minutes to get from the train to the bus and as the train hit each scheduled stop it was running behind and the app on my phone dutifuly kept me informed, mentioning that at one point I had 3 minutes to make a four minute walk to the bus. Somehow the train gained back it's lost time and we arrived right on time. I made my way to what I thought was the correct bus and was relieved when I presented my ticket to the driver and he waved my onboard. The bus was full but I found a seat up front next to a 20 something young man. Again I must have looked like I was a local and he was asking me, in German of course, if he was on the right bus. I must have given him that same dumb look so he asked me again in english. We both came to the conclusion that we were and had an interest conversation during our 1 hour bus ride. The countryside was beautiful with wheat, corn and cabbage fields racing by. I tried to take pics but everything was a blur. The road finally joined up with the Danube and I got my first look at my river host for the next week.

    After a quick lunch across the street from the bus/train station I needed to catch a taxi for the last leg to the boat The driver couldn't understand why I was laughing and saying I didn't think I could ride in his taxi. It was his Raiders jersey. He is from Budapest but apparently the Raiders have a high following there. The ride to the boat was beautiful and reminded me of some roads in Colorado and wished I was in a motorcycle and was jealous of every motorcyclist I saw.

    Tomorrow is our first ride with a couple of twists. We'll see if I get lost on the first day.

    More tk.
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  • First ride

    August 16 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    A bit wordy yesterday. Today was our first day of riding and in the small group of four I've found myself in we were all wondering about navigating the day's route. We were briefed the night before and we were all given a map book with the week's route and also have a phone app with turn by turn directions, plus the river is the major hard to miss landmark. In spite of that we managed a few wrong turns but the phone app was quick to let you know you made a wrong turn. The route required we cross the river twice by ferry. After the second ferry was an opportunity to hike to an overlook to get a better view of the river. We had a couple of stops along the way for coffee in the morning and lunch in the afternoon. The ride was an easy 27 mile cycle along the river path that is nicely paved but in sections cars are allowed to get to river camping and fishing spots. Weather was perfect, overcast and cool all ride, better than the 90''s scortcher on Saturday. I think tomorrow will be the same.Read more

  • Ruine Hinterhouse

    August 17 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Ruine Hinterhaus (Hinterhaus Castle) is a medieval hilltop fortress ruin located on a ridge of the Jauerling mountain above the market town of Spitz in the Wachau valley of Lower Austria.Parts of the Romanesque structure date back to the 12th and 13th centuries, with major expansions following in the 15th century.It sits at an elevation overlooking the Danube River and has been left to gradual decay since the 16th century.Read more

  • Freikörperkultur (FKK)

    August 17 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Freikörperkultur (FKK), meaning “free-body culture,” is a German tradition centered on social nudity and a relaxed, natural attitude toward the human body. It became especially popular in Germany in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and is associated with outdoor recreation, beaches, swimming, and a sense of freedom from social conventions.

    Ok, now that I grabbed your attention, there is no truth to the rumor that I bicycled naked today. Part of our bike path traversed through an FKk area and was well marked with FKK painted on the bike path. No practitioners were spotted. We even stopped there for lunch. In the picture you can see Erik and his wife Karin from Denmark in front, then next to Karin is Todd and his wife Lisa from Arizona and behind Erik is Ellen, from Holland.

    Today started with overcast skies and rain but as soon as we were released the rain stopped and we had a very nice day of riding. We're in Vienna tonight and tomorrow, doing a bike tour of the city tomorrow.
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  • Kaisers Geburtstag

    August 18 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Emperor's Birthday! Today Franz Joseph I was born in 1830 and became the Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary. He was the longest-reigning Habsburg ruler, serving as Emperor of Austria and King of Hungary for 68 years until his death in 1916.
    While Franz Joseph's birthday is the primary "Emperor's Birthday," Emperor Karl I (born August 17, 1887) is also commemorated on this date by some traditionalist groups, particularly in Laxenburg. My Aunt Mae was born on the 17th, and her brother's name (aka my father) is Karl. If you didn't know, today is my birthday 🎈.
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  • Vienna

    August 18 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today was an off day for us to do as we wanted. I took a bicycle tour of the city hoping to see as much of Vienna as I could. We got a taste of the city but truthfully I spent more time trying not to crash or get hit by people, bikes, busses, trains and horse carriages than getting to see the sights. After the tour Todd, Lisa and I went in search of a sidewalk cafe for lunch. I had a delicious beef dish. I should have taken a picture of the menu because I can't remember it's German name. We were left in city center to find our own way back to the boat but all we had to find was the canal and follow it back to the boat.Read more

  • Vienna to Melk

    August 19 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was the best day of riding so far this week, and being one of the shortest distance days had nothing to do with it. The day started like all the rest, cool and threatening rain. What made today so interesting was that we rode through several small villages and the Wachau region vineyards. Along the way we stopped at several tasting rooms to sample the wines of the region. We got in a bit of trouble when we stopped for an espresso at a small roadside cafe. They had grapes by the order window so we each tried several, absolutely delicious, and not free samples. We left a couple euros and all was forgiven. Lunch at a road side cafe was also outstanding, I'm not sure I can eat schnitzel in the US again, it is not the same at all. I also had two radlers ( same as a shandy, depends on where you order it ) so was sleepy after those a a large lunchRead more

  • Curtains, like fences, make good neighbors

    August 19 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    When we are moving overnight I've been leaving the curtains and the French doors open while I sleep. I like the sound of the river and the nights are cool enough so I don't have to run the air conditioner. This morning I woke up and the river boat pictured above was tied up next to us. My doors lined up with a window of the other ship's dining room, and next to that window was a table with six Japanese eating breakfast. As I got out of bed, IN MY BOXERS, to close the drapes, the whole table smiled and waved at me. I did the polite thing , smiled and waved back as a pulled the drapes closed.Read more

  • Mauthausen Concentration Camp

    August 21 in Austria ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Mauthausen Concentration Camp

    Mauthausen concentration camp was one of the largest and most brutal Nazi concentration camp complexes in Austria. Located near the town of Mauthausen, about 20 kilometers east of Linz, the camp operated from August 1938 until its liberation by American forces on May 5, 1945. Mauthausen and its network of subcamps became a central part of the Nazi system of imprisonment, forced labor, persecution, and murder. More than 190,000 people from across Europe were imprisoned in the Mauthausen camp system, and tens of thousands died from starvation, disease, exhaustion, mistreatment, executions, and other forms of systematic violence.

    The camp was established shortly after Nazi Germany annexed Austria in March 1938. The first prisoners arrived at Mauthausen in August of that year. Unlike some concentration camps that were initially established primarily for political prisoners, Mauthausen was classified by the SS as a particularly severe camp, or “Grade III” concentration camp. It was intended for prisoners whom the Nazis considered especially dangerous or supposedly incapable of rehabilitation. In practice, this classification reflected the extraordinary brutality of the camp and the SS system that operated it.

    The prisoners came from many different countries and backgrounds. Political opponents of Nazism were among the earliest prisoners, but the camp population eventually included Jews, Roma and Sinti, Spanish Republicans, Soviet prisoners of war, Polish and other Eastern European civilians, resistance fighters, intellectuals, homosexual men, and people imprisoned under the Nazis' racial and social policies. Prisoners were identified by colored triangular badges sewn onto their uniforms, indicating the category into which the SS had placed them. These categories were part of the elaborate system of classification and dehumanization used throughout the concentration camp system.

    Mauthausen was also fundamentally a forced-labor camp. The SS exploited prisoners as a source of virtually free labor for German industry and construction. One of the most notorious workplaces was the granite quarry beside the main camp. Prisoners were forced to extract and move enormous blocks of stone under extremely dangerous conditions. They worked for long hours with inadequate food, clothing, rest, and medical care.

    The Stairs of Death, leading from the quarry to the main camp, became a particularly infamous symbol of Mauthausen. Prisoners were forced to carry heavy blocks of granite up the steep, uneven steps. Those who stumbled could fall onto prisoners below them, creating a chain reaction in which several people might be injured or killed. Exhaustion, beatings, accidents, and deliberate violence made the quarry one of the most deadly parts of the camp. For many prisoners, labor itself became a method of killing.

    Conditions throughout the camp were deliberately designed to destroy human beings physically and psychologically. Prisoners received inadequate quantities of food, often consisting of extremely poor-quality substitutes. Overcrowding, inadequate sanitation, exposure to cold, and lack of medical treatment contributed to widespread disease. Prisoners suffering from illness or weakness could become unable to work, making them particularly vulnerable to selection for death. SS guards and prisoner functionaries also subjected inmates to beatings, torture, humiliation, and arbitrary punishment.

    Mauthausen was connected to a large network of subcamps. As Nazi Germany's war economy expanded, the SS increasingly used concentration camp prisoners in armaments production, construction, mining, and other industries. More than forty major subcamps and numerous smaller facilities were eventually associated with Mauthausen. Among the best known was Gusen, located several kilometers away. Gusen became an enormous and deadly camp complex in its own right, with prisoners working in quarries, underground factories, and armaments production.

    The camp system expanded dramatically during the Second World War. As Nazi Germany occupied additional European territories, prisoners were transported to Mauthausen from many countries. Deportations were carried out by train under horrific conditions. Prisoners frequently arrived exhausted, starving, sick, or injured. Many had already experienced imprisonment, forced labor, or persecution elsewhere. Upon arrival, they were registered, stripped of personal possessions, assigned prisoner numbers, and subjected to the camp's brutal regime.

    Mauthausen also became a site of systematic murder. Prisoners were killed through shootings, hanging, lethal injections, deliberate starvation, and other methods. A gas chamber was established at the main camp, and gas vans were also used. The SS carried out killing operations against prisoners considered too weak or ill to continue working. Thousands of Soviet prisoners of war were also murdered within the Mauthausen system. The combination of deliberate killing and conditions calculated to cause death resulted in an enormous loss of life.

    Despite the terror of the camp, prisoners resisted in various ways. Resistance did not always mean armed revolt. Prisoners attempted to sabotage forced labor, preserve food, help sick or threatened inmates, maintain religious and cultural practices, and document what was happening. In some cases, prisoners managed to preserve photographs, documents, and other evidence of the camp's crimes. Such acts were extremely dangerous because discovery could result in severe punishment or death.

    As Allied forces approached Austria in the spring of 1945, the SS attempted to conceal evidence of their crimes and evacuate prisoners from some camps. Thousands of prisoners were forced onto evacuation marches under appalling conditions. Many died from exhaustion, starvation, exposure, or shootings. At Mauthausen itself, however, the SS was increasingly unable to maintain control as the Nazi regime collapsed.

    On May 5, 1945, American soldiers of the 11th Armored Division reached Mauthausen. They found thousands of prisoners in desperate physical condition. The camp was liberated, but liberation did not immediately end the suffering. Many survivors were severely malnourished and seriously ill, and some died in the days and weeks following liberation. The scenes encountered by American soldiers and other liberators provided undeniable evidence of the scale and brutality of the concentration camp system.

    The number of deaths associated with Mauthausen and its subcamps is enormous. Historical research indicates that more than 190,000 people were imprisoned in the Mauthausen camp system between 1938 and 1945, and at least 90,000 died. The precise number remains difficult to establish because Nazi authorities destroyed or falsified records and because many victims were never individually documented. Behind these statistics were individual human beings with families, professions, languages, beliefs, hopes, and lives that were violently interrupted.

    Today, the former Mauthausen concentration camp is a memorial and museum. The site preserves portions of the original camp, including the quarry, the Stairs of Death, prisoner barracks, the crematorium area, and other structures. Memorials erected by different countries commemorate the prisoners who were imprisoned and murdered there. The site serves not only as a place of remembrance but also as an educational institution dedicated to documenting Nazi persecution and the experiences of the prisoners.

    Mauthausen is particularly significant because it demonstrates how persecution, forced labor, and mass murder were integrated into the Nazi system. The camp was not an isolated place of violence. It was connected to a much larger political and economic structure in which the SS, German industries, government agencies, and other institutions exploited prisoners. The granite quarry and numerous subcamps demonstrate how concentration camp prisoners were treated as expendable labor.

    Remembering Mauthausen therefore requires more than remembering a single camp or a single number of victims. It requires recognizing the gradual process through which human beings were classified, excluded, stripped of rights, imprisoned, exploited, and ultimately killed. The surviving buildings and memorials provide physical evidence of that history, while survivor testimony gives a human dimension to statistics that can otherwise be difficult to comprehend.

    Mauthausen stands today as a warning about the consequences of racism, political repression, antisemitism, authoritarianism, and the systematic dehumanization of other people. Its history is preserved because the crimes committed there must not be reduced to distant historical abstractions. The prisoners who passed through its gates were individuals, and their experiences remain an essential part of the historical record of Nazi Germany and the Holocaust.
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  • Jet lag sucks

    August 28 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Been home for a couple of days and trying to get my body back on Colorado time.

    I really enjoyed my trip and really enjoyed the bike and boat experience. It's just like liveaboards so something I'm familiar with. I like not having to find food every day. We did stop during the rides for lunch at small roadside restaurants and had some outstanding meals. I met some good people too and got out of my comfort zone as I can be somewhat of a loner.

    Most days we rode on bike paths that followed the Danube but my favorite day was when our path went through many small towns and villages. The most intense day was the visit to the concentration camp.

    All in all I would do another bike and boat, I still want to go further down the Danube but the Rhine has some interesting trips as well.

    Next up for me is a road trip with my Aunts, Bea and Linda, to visit Revolutionary War sites. I can't wait.

    Past that, while I was riding along the Danube I started thinking about a Christmas/New Year's trip and am thinking about bicycling through the countryside of Vietnam. They have a festival in Hoi An that sounds to cool to miss.
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    Trip end
    August 21, 2026