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Around the World ‘24-25
  • Caroline Edwards
  • Donny Foy
  • Caroline Edwards
  • Donny Foy

Around the World ‘24-25

Circumnavigating the 🌎 East to West, visiting 2 new continents: Canada, Japan, Egypt, Portugal, Ireland, South Africa, Brazil, Argentina, Chile, and Mexico. Adventure beckons! Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 21, 2024
    Around the World ‘24-25
    Wheeeee!
    Wheeeee!A little window into my award search methodology.

    How it all began

    April 21, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 39 °F

    Japan. October 2019. Rugby World Cup. An amazing trip and we vowed to return. Donny found a smokin’ deal to transfer AmEx points to ANA. Boom.

    Yeah, Boom as in Pandemic. ☹️

    Three (hundred) years pass and those miles are going to expire. Start searching, discover Star Alliance’s Round the World ticket. Used their great planning tool (link below) to map out a route that checks the box on bunch of our travel goals:
    • Japan because cherry blossoms (plus bullet trains! And geishas! And food!)
    • Egypt because Donny’s niece’s wedding (plus Pyramids!)
    • Ireland for family (new baby!), horsey things (racing season & RDS!), and golf (of course!)
    • Cape Town because native friends will be there too (plus safari!)
    • South America because retiring in the USA is $$$$ (plus Pampas! And polo! And the Andes!)

    Over to ANA’s booking site to search award seats for each flight, ONE frustrating day at a time. Learned that ANA must not play nicely in the Star Alliance sandbox because award seats available on other members’ sites do not exist in the ANA universe. 🤔

    Booking via phone was relatively straightforward (after the 1+ hour hold time) given all the award flight searching beforehand. 400k ANA miles + $3k and we’re ready to roll on 8 biz class flights over 1 year covering ~35,000 flight miles.

    Three weeks later, an email arrives from ANA announcing a minor change to one flight time. I happen to notice my name is spelled Carloine (which, consequently is now my cool Godfather name).

    No big deal to just swap those two letters, right? Hahaha, that’s adorable. It is, indeed, a VERY BIG DEAL. 😳

    I’m told by a lovely woman (after another 1+hr wait on the phone) that not all the carriers allow name changes so we can basically either take a chance on correcting my name at the time of each flight or rebook the whole thing from scratch. I end the call and pitch an absolute lose-my-sh*t conniption fit. Then, as Donny says, I stick my hand up my arse and pull myself together and start over.

    Award Seat Search 2.0 went much faster thanks to lessons learned the first go-round and resulted in 2 wins: biz class on our first leg (we just have to get to Montreal) and a few better route choices. One final hour on hold, then rebooked our updated itinerary, sans cool godfather name but $500 cheaper. 🙌

    Obsessively confirm my name spelling on the new itinerary. 🧐 Ready to roll!

    ______________
    Tools I found helpful for award flight search:

    Star Alliance Round the World tool (for rules, hubs & routes, and calculating total flight miles to determine how many airline miles you’ll need): https://roundtheworld.staralliance.com/staralli…

    Flight Connections (for possible connecting flight routes, in case award seats on direct routes aren’t available; subscription required to filter by alliance or carrier): https://www.flightconnections.com/

    Seats.aero (for finding potential award seat availability and alerts; covers most major airlines and route, but not all; monthly subscription required for extended search beyond 60 days): https://seats.aero

    Airline Alliance and Award Point Infographic: https://welltraveledmile.com/airline-transfer-p…

    Interactive & customizable world map (for visualizing flight routes and calculating distance flown): https://www.greatcirclemap.com    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25

    Vancouver

    April 21, 2024 in the United States ⛅ 54 °F

    Caught the train from Edmonds to Vancouver. Some spectacular views along the way…
    Quiet evening with Caroline’s family Morgan & Scott. Korean food and ice hockey.
    Early start to Montreal.

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Loads of gorgeous churches in the city
    Loads of gorgeous churches in the cityIt's a boat. It's a spa. It's a boat spa!Linguini, the Cornish Rex

    Montreal

    Apr 22–24, 2024 in Canada ⛅ 46 °F

    Montreal became the kickoff point for our RTW ticket through the whole misspelled name debacle—in rebooking the whole trip, we found business class award seats from Montreal to Tokyo. 🥳

    We started off with an evening walk from our hotel down to and along the waterfront, where we learned that Montreal was, at one time, the largest port in N. America. First impressions: clean, a spectacular church every few blocks, and a cold wind that WILL cut straight to your bones. Next trip we’re for sure trying the Spa Boat!

    Day 2 was a sunny & gorgeous 65 degrees, perfect for our chef’s tour through Jean Talon market. In summer it hosts 150 stalls open 7 days a week. You know what late April in Montreal is not? Summer. 😕 So basically we walked around the edge of the yet-to-awaken market, shopping for our dinner ingredients that evening. We did have a few delightful bites of North African merguez sausage and a beef hand pie with cinnamon & ground almonds, plus divine Chinese soup dumplings and fried dumplings stuffed with shredded lamb and oozing with lamb fat. Chef Rob has a very diverse culinary background and shared a ton about the past and present of Montreal’s culinary scene. Also, it was super fun counting the number of famous people name drops, failed attempts to share a relatable anecdote or otherwise get a word in edgewise. 🤐

    Needless to say, we were a little trepidatious about a private dinner featuring more of Chef Overtalker but we’d prepaid so off we went. Another lovely walk through the city to arrive at his very stylish apartment, filled with gorgeous smells and a few plaintive meows from behind the bedroom door. Oh boy.

    Well…..Dinner. Was. Incredible. Chef Rob chose to highlight the emerging ethnicities in Montreal and nailed it—Korean caprese, Caribbean pork belly, Persian white asparagus, & Thai duck curry & duck w/ mushroom broth, all topped off with a Quebecois composed cheese course. He layered flavors in perfect balance, along with a cider or wine pairing for each course, including a lovely bottle of Sauternes I’d been saving for a special occasion.

    Did you know Duck could taste like the most amazing piece of filet mignon you’ve ever had?

    P.S. Chef Rob was much more relaxed and engaging in the kitchen. Especially once his meows were let out (he checked with us first) and turned out to be two Cornish Rex cats that are THE friendliest, most human-loving little cuddle bugs. Might be one of those in our future…IF we ever settle down. ❤️    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
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    Tokyo 2.0

    Apr 25–28, 2024 in Japan 🌬 54 °F

    It has to be one of my favorite cities. Last time we were here was for rugby World Cup 2019. There’s just so much going on. Beautiful parks, fabulous food, probably the best public transportation system anywhere. What’s not to like?
    Did I mention the visual stimulation: Fish markets, knife shops, restaurants, expensive cars, cab drivers with white gloves, baseball, rugby and fashion. It’s a must for those who can.

    According to Numbeo.com it is significantly less expensive than Seattle. Tell my wallet that. Haha

    https://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/compare_c…

    The photos will give a glimpse of our adventures. We are currently on a high speed train under the Sea of Japan. See you in Sapporo.    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    1: Sake w/ Uni (Sea Urchin)
    1: Sake w/ Uni (Sea Urchin)2: Bamboo shoots, Squid, Mogwort-Fu, & Mogwort Miso3: Appetizer of Tango-no-Sekku (Children's Day)4: Sashimi - Ise Maguro (Tuna)5: Clam, clam dumpling, & vegetables in Dashi7: Grilled Ise Ebi (lobster) w/ sesame tofu and (amaaaazing) carrot sauceBonus course: Smoked Iga Wagyu finished in homemade soy sauce, served w/ fresh wasabi9: Hotpot of Wagyu beef, bamboo shoots, & pepper leavesSous chefs prepare the wagyu hotpot dish10: Seasoned rice w/ moutain vegetables & red miso soup11: Matcha chocolate fondant & Soy milk Mochi w/ brown sugar syrup15 year aged sake - deeeelicious!Chef Tanaka came around and took a photo w/ everyone - so sweetWhat is kaiseki?April 2024 MenuSake (and 1 gin) paired with each courseTiny space, big experience!

    Tokyo: Kaiseki dinner @ Ise Sueyoshi

    April 26, 2024 in Japan ☁️ 68 °F

    Kaiseki is a traditional 7-14 course meal structured to provide a harmonious balance of flavors, textures, and temperatures through a focus on seasonal ingredients, artfully presented to create a sense of tranquility and appreciation.

    I first heard of kaiseki on a Top Chef episode so when Tokyo ended up on our itinerary, it just HAD to be part of our itinerary. Found Ise Sueyoshi through Time Out (great website, even better market/food halls scattered around the world) and snagged a booking for our 2nd evening in Tokyo (because jet lag).

    The restaurant occupies an intimate (aka tiny) space on the 2nd floor. Stepping in, we were immediately welcomed and seated at the 5-seat bar behind which Chef Yuuki Tanaka and his 2 assistants had apparently been casting spells and sacrificing virgins earlier to create a spectacular dining experience.

    And experience it was! Each course had a unique table setting—stunning dishes, sake cups & glasses (and a box!)—and was elegantly presented in a manner I can only call quiet deliberation.

    And the food…sweet baby Jesus, absolutely divine.

    Most of the ingredients are sourced near the chef’s home in the Mie region, southwest of Tokyo, and his pride and love for the area and its producers definitely came through in the food and how he spoke about it. In front of our place setting was a book showcasing featured ingredients and their producers, which the team opened to the corresponding page for each course. Really fun hearing the dish described, and then tasting it while deep diving into an ingredient to learn more about it and the producer’s philosophy. (Is “food nerd” a thing? *sheepishly raises hand*)

    The sake pairings were perfect and opened our eyes to the spirit’s diversity and versatility. My favorite was served in a fresh cypress wood box (took a minute to figure out how to drink from it without spilling down my chin)—the floral aroma of the wood with the crisp sake was transcendent. And we even got to take the boxes home!    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Sapporo TV Tower
    Sapporo TV TowerSapporo underground - zoom in...it goes for days!Pink Statue of Liberty in downtown SapporoCrab is huge here...didn't get to try it this tripSapporo city center1Spicy miso ramen w/ extra char siu pork, seasoned egg, & greensPut in cash, push buttons for ramen type, add-ins, & drinks. Hand tickets to nice lady. Yum!Jingikusan (Genghis Khan): Lamb grilled w/ veggies - Delish!Makomanai Golf Club - Moiwa courseCharges go on your # (provided w/ scorecard holder at check-in) paid via kiosk at the end.Huge clubhouse with awesome public bath (his & hers)The golf carts are no joke!Arctic hares on the course, transitioning from winter white to summer brown

    Sapporo

    Apr 28–30, 2024 in Japan ☁️ 50 °F

    Fast train to the North Island of Japan, Hokkaido. The train is so fast the Findpenguins app actually thought we were flying. Didn't have huge expectations of Sapporo. Don't really know why. It’s a great city—easy to get around, good food, and a huge, 2-level underground city (like 1km long) since they get so much snow in the winter.

    Caroline had her restaurants picked out long before we got there, so after checking into the Royal Park Canvas Hotel right by the TV Tower (Sapporo landmark), off we went in search of dinner.

    The area we went to was hopping with nightlife, mostly younger adults. This meant that there were long lines for the restaurants, especially the high rated ones Caroline picked. Anyone who know me knows that I am not a stand in line guy, so off we went to find other options. Got lucky with a hole-in-the wall ramen joint in the bowels of a building. 8-seats, ticket vending machine, nice lady behind the counter. Spicy miso ramen with extras and a beer for ¥4,000 (~$25) for both of us. Heaven.

    Day two, we took the metro to the end and then walked two minutes to a bus meeting place. Hopped on the bus which dropped us off at Makomanai Golf Club in the forested hills above Sapporo, where we played in Japan for the first time. It was lovely, even with the flat tire on the golf cart on our 3rd hole. After the round, the caddie master asked how it was. Caroline said, “Great, I won!” He laughed, looked at me with a big smile and said, “Loser!” We were just starting to walk away so it took a few seconds to register what he’d just said. Harsh! Haha. That has been entertaining us for days now.

    Day three we pack our bags and head off to pick up a rental car for a week-ish of roadtripping & golf. Yikes.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapporo    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Horses horses horses!
    Horses horses horses!Hike through Usuzenkoji Natural ParkWild fox by the side of the road!Super cute Airbnb in the countrysideHustler next to a Hustler!Kazu (Airbnb host) & CarolineKimchi scrambled eggs 🤤Park Golf!1st try at Park Golf3Are those green onions or are you just happy to see me? 😳

    Hokkaido Countryside

    Apr 30 – May 7, 2024 in Japan ☁️ 52 °F

    We found a tiny house on Airbnb near Chitose, about 30 mins from Sapporo by train. Picked up rental car (including the obligatory “follow the guy holding a flag to the bus”) and away we go.

    Day one took us in search of cherry blossoms but what we found was that the country side south of Sapporo is packed full of racehorse farms and training facilities. Huge properties of precisely fenced, rolling green hills dotted with magnificent stables and covered tracks (because they get so much snow here). One enormous collection of blue & white buildings, including an 1100 meter covered straight track belongs to the Darley Stud (of Saudi-owned Goldophin fame). Amazing.

    On our second road trip attempt to find cherry blossoms (somewhat disappointing, we missed the peak bloom time), we passed a park-like field with people playing what looked like a cross between croquet and mini golf. 🤔 Stopped in for the craic and discovered Park Golf. What a blast. I chuckled at the 65meter par four and several groups of middle-aged adults fully outfitted in park golf gear, complete with fanny packs (sorry, bum bags for you non-Americans) and custom clubs. Chuckles aside, it’s not an easy game—you really have to whack that ball and hope for the best given the narrow “fairways” and bumpy ground. Best part? The hole is about 8” (20cm) wide!

    Driving is no problem here although the speed limits are SLOW and SLOWER. Our drive took us by a caldera lake—Lake Shikotsu—surrounded by five volcanos. The depth of the lake gets to 1200' and the water doesn't freeze in the winter because of the volcanic activity.

    This area is also chock-a-block with golf courses—hooray! We’ve played twice so far—both good courses and not that expensive: 18 holes, rental clubs, golf cart and lunch with a drink for just over $100. Since we tied our golf match yesterday we are going to play another round of Park Golf today to see who gets the winner’s trophy. Go ME. (Caroline edit: I won. Haha. Loser. 😂)

    RE: food, not a lot to report. We have been cooking at the Airbnb. We did discover a different twist on breakfast though—kimchi egg scramble. Yummy. The supermarkets have lots of veggies, almost all packaged in portions for 1, maybe 2 meals. There are baked sweet potatoes in a warmer in the produce section and strawberries are $4 for 7-8 individual berries. Yikes. Sushi is beautiful, abundant, and pretty inexpensive—$6 for 8-10 slices of tuna sashimi. Surprisingly, most of the tuna is from the Mediterranean near Malta. Cheese is also very much NOT a thing. There’s some shredded mozzarella (for those crazy adventurers trying their hand at homemade pizza) but almost everything else is individually-wrapped little pieces of white cheese like an American-Cheddar blend.

    Our host, Kazu, is hilarious. He comes in everyday to water the plants and feed the fish and he LOVES a good chat. This is his home when he’s not renting it out, so we’re thinking maybe he’s either lonely or appreciative of the time away from his Mom’s house (or just really friendly!). That said, he’s been super helpful with suggestions for places to go and even did a load of laundry for us and drove us to/from dinner our first night (drunk driving is so taboo that restaurants will not serve everyone at the table alcohol until they’ve confirmed they have a ride).

    As of this report we will be staying here for another three nights because someone didn't book the train to Kyoto in time and it’s a holiday weekend. (Caroline edit: SOMEONE likes it here and is not racing to go to another big city.)

    https://ipgaa.com/what-is-park-golf
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Shikotsu    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Oooops...Lots of farm ground and HUGE covered horse training tracksSausages "on the bone" 🤔Tomato Salad = Whole peeled tomato cut in quartersCaroline & our host, Kazu

    Goodbye Hokkaido

    May 7, 2024 in Japan 🌧 55 °F

    Sitting on the train now en route to Kyoto. Passing back on the same tracks that brought us here. Time to reflect.

    Would I go back? Yes. Would I stay at the same accommodation? Yes. Being here was something a bit different. Where we got to enjoy the countryside. Play lots of golf, including park golf and connect with the locals.

    Our Airbnb host, Kazu, was a character who went out of his way to take care of us. He was our translator, taxi driver, appointment manager and unofficial travel guide. He would come by daily to feed his fish & water the plants, re-stock the fridge with fresh water, apple green tea and beer. He also did a load of laundry for us (or his mom or auntie did?). What a guy.

    The four rounds of golf were lovely and ticked another experience off the bucket list. I wouldn’t say spectacular but certainly memorable and enjoyable. Possibly not so enjoyable for the groups playing ahead of us the first 3 rounds, after which we figured out the Japanese etiquette is to wait to tee off until the group ahead on the green. Ooops.

    Having a rental car was also a treat. So glad we got to explore the area on our terms.
    All said, it was a wonderful place and a wonderful experience.    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Torii gates for days
    Torii gates for daysFushimi Inari-taisha ShrineFoxes everywhereButterfly FlowerWe are gigaaaaantic!

    Mt. Inari & Intro to Shinto

    May 8, 2024 in Japan ⛅ 64 °F

    Our first morning in Kyoto found us on a “hidden trails” hiking tour up Mt. Inari to see the infamous collection of “ten thousand” torii gates over paths meandering between Shinto subshrines of Fushimi Inari-taisha, the gorgeous main shrine at the mountain’s base.

    It was a leisurely hike to the top of the mountain on less popular trails (but still well marked because Japan loves a good sign 🤓) through the forest, along bubbling streams, stopping at small shrines and bamboo groves along the way to learn a bit about the area and Shinto symbolism. Our tour guide was nice but a bit hard to understand and took terrible photos, lol.

    Fushimi Inari-taisha was founded in 711AD to venerate the Shinto deity Inari, the principal kami of rice, fertility, and worldly prosperity, thus making it a significant spiritual center for agriculture and business. Over the centuries, it gained immense significance, receiving imperial patronage during the Heian period (794-1185AD) when Emperor Murakami decreed important events be relayed to the guardian kami, including Fushimi Inari.

    While most wouldn’t recognize the mountain by name, you’ve almost certainly seen photos of its iconic feature—thousands of vermilion torii gates winding up the mountain, donated by worshippers and businesses since the Edo period. Sponsoring a torii gate is seen as a way to gain favor from Inari Okami, with the hope of being blessed with good fortune, business success, and bountiful harvests.

    The torii mark the boundary between the ordinary world and the sacred realm. For kami (Shinto deities), the gates welcome and allow passage into the shrine grounds. For mere mortals, walking through a torii gate simultaneously cleanses the spirit and allows one to transition from the mundane to the sacred. It’s kind of like a UV cleanser for the soul because those enshrined kami don’t want to deal with any of your spiritual garbage. ☺️

    The ancient Japanese had a notion that everything in this world is a sacred spirit, even things like wind, rain, mountains, etc. As a result, the number of Shinto kami is described as 8 million, which in traditional culture is synonymous with infinity. (Sounds like someone got tired of counting, “…7,999,999, 8,000,000. *takes a breath* Do we REALLY need to go any higher? Let’s just call it infinity and go have some sake.”)

    Shrines here feature fox statues—kitsune (fox) are believed to be the sacred messengers and guardians of Inari, acting as intermediaries between the divine and human realms. They’re thought to possess supernatural abilities and are revered for protecting rice crops from vermin and bringing prosperity, hence the association with the god of rice & agriculture.

    After cleansing our spirit (it should be spotless for a few years given the sheer number of gates we walked thru), getting slightly depressing fortunes (they were free, go figure), and photobombing countless tourists’ dreams shot, we made our way down to the main shrine. Perfect timing as tons of people were just arriving to head to the top, on a MUCH steeper trail than we took. That alone was worth the price of the tour.

    ~~~~~~~~
    By the Numbers:

    • Mt. Inari stands 233 meters (768 feet) above sea level and networked with over 4km of trails
    • There are >1,300 subshrines of Fushimi Inari-taisha just on Mt. Inari, with thousands more spread across Japan
    • The actual number of torii gates is closer to 32,000, with more being added every day (but “ten thousand” just rolls off the tongue)
    •A bamboo shoot can can grow 100cm EACH day    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Kitano Tenmagu shrine, devoted to academics
    Kitano Tenmagu shrine, devoted to academicsSchoolkids visit Kitano Tenmagu from all over Japan to pray for academic successInside Kitano Tenmagu shrine courtyardThe Golden Pavilion of Rukuon-ji templeBonsai of unknown age, grown to resemble a shipMatcha w/ gold leafAdorable wooden horse (also believed to be messengers btwn humans and gods, like foxes)Roasted mochi skewersOne of 25 temples/subtemples in the Daitoku-ji complexCarved wooden signs are just coolerZen garden @ Daitoku-ji. Check out those waves!Shinseicho street, know for teahouses & sightings of geiko (geisha) & maikoCurry soba cutieCute tile in the sidewalkZen garden & Henry our guide

    Kyoto e-Bike Tour

    May 9, 2024 in Japan ☀️ 64 °F

    Today’s e-Bike tour around NW Kyoto was outstanding, thanks to our guide Henry, a relocated Brit who fell in love with Kyoto (and a Japanese woman) 10 years ago. He has such a love for Kyoto & its history, sharing stories that really brought the places we visited to life.

    We started at Kitano Tenmagu shrine, a Shinto shrine that every schoolchild in Japan visits at least once to pray for academic success (and there were A LOT of kids there). Built in 947AD, it was the first shrine in Japan to enshrine an actual person as a deity—Sugawara no Michizane, the “god of academics.” Where Fushimi Inari has donated gates, offerings here take the form of golden lanterns.

    Up next was our first Zen temple of Kyoto, Rukuon-ji (aka Kinkakuji or the Golden Pavilion), originally built in the 14th century as a party house (or “retirement villa” in other sources) for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who declared that it be converted to a temple upon his death. The gold leaf symbolizes purity in Zen Buddhism and just so happens to also reflect the extravagant Kitayama culture of the time. The temple burned down in 1955 and was entirely rebuilt, so it’s still super shiny.

    This is also where I learned that shoguns, political & military leaders, were MORE powerful than the Emperor, a figurehead whose only power stemmed from the support of shoguns. Even though the Emperor was believed by most Japanese to be a direct descendant of the sun goddess Amaterasu, shoguns called the shots.

    After checking with the group, Henry took us up a super steep street (thank all the gods for the e-bike assist!) before a nice leisurely cruise downhill to Imamiya-jinja shrine. We weren’t there so much for the shrine as for a little break for charcoal-roasted mochi skewers (tasty!) & green tea at the nearby shop, which has been serving visitors of the nearby shrines & temples for over a thousand years (25 generations by their count).

    Henry explained these shops have been around for so long because this area would have been countryside when the temples & shrines were first built, so worshippers needed sustenance before continuing onward or returning home.

    Our last stop was nearby Daitoku-ji, a huge 25-temple complex founded in 1315 and one of the most important Zen temples in Japan. We stopped in to see a gorgeous traditional Japanese garden, its stones quite aggressively raked to resemble waves around rock islands.

    Henry shared that the particular style of Zen Buddhism meditation practiced here isn’t the “close you’re eyes and clear your mind” type, but focuses more on koans (KOH-ahns)—enigmatic riddles or paradoxical statements. By trying to solve the unsolvable koans, one is forced to abandon dependence on reason and open the door to a more intuitive, mindful awareness of the present and the true nature of reality.

    “Two hands clap and there is a sound. What is the sound of one hand?”

    “Two monks are arguing about a flag. One says, ‘The flag is moving.’ The other, ‘The wind is moving.’ A third walks by and says, ‘Not the wind, not hate flag; the mind is moving.’”

    After returning the gear, we stopped for lunch at a soba place on Shinseicho street, an area famous for tea houses and sighting geiko (geishas here in Kyoto) and maiko (geiko apprentices). You can tell a shop is a tea house because it has a white lantern with little red circles on it, representing the sweets that are offered with the tea.

    Unfortunately we didn’t spot a single geiko during our time in Kyoto—they’re quite elusive. Guess we’ll just have to come back someday and try again!    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Kyoto's Nishiki market
    Kyoto's Nishiki marketAll the tableware at Sushi & Bar SPOT in KyotoSmokers have to go to enclosed rooms, even outdoors.1A "family size" SUV

    Impressions of Japan

    May 12, 2024 in Japan ☁️ 73 °F

    It’s hard to put your finger on what makes Japan so unique and utterly enjoyable for us, but here are a few random observations:

    Everything is about 80% size—cars, electric meters, streets, hotel rooms—yet designed with thought and intention, simplicity, clean lines, elegance. “A place for everything and everything in its place” to the extreme.

    Politeness is ingrained—bus drivers bow to the bus when changing shifts; train conductors bow before leaving each car; taxi & bus drivers wear white gloves; flaggers near construction sites wear immaculate uniforms and take their jobs VERY seriously (and every construction site has at least 1 person working the sidewalk & street to ensure safety).

    No jaywalking. Japanese people all wait politely for the light to change because, as our guide explained, to stand out from the crowd or draw attention is extremely embarrassing. “The nail that sticks up must be hammered down,” is a well known Japanese proverb reflecting the culture’s emphasis on conformity & suppressing individualism for the sake of group harmony.

    Super, super safe. We saw little, little kids (like 1st grade?) walking to school by themselves in Tokyo near our hotel. Backpacks were half their size, like turtle shells. 😂 In our Airbnb’s little housing enclave, a caravan of kids on bikes assemble in a line near the main road leading into the neighborhood, then proceed to ride ~50m down the road to a “crossing” manned by a crossing guard(mind you, this is a road in the middle of nowhere), get off their bikes and walk them across the road before resuming their trek to school.

    The signage here is amazing—clear, concise, easy to understand, adorable graphics, lots of warnings for safety. Traveling by train, subway, & bus is a breeze once you figure out a few basics. See the “How To” post for tips & tools we found helpful for finding, booking & riding public transportation.    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    We ate our weight in pillowy Egyptian bread and creamy tahine1BEFORE we found out there's no alcohol on board 🤦‍♀️

    Cairo Impressions

    May 13–18, 2024 in Egypt ☀️ 84 °F

    D: It’s all a bit much out of the gate but it’s calmed down now. Just go with the flow. We have done quite a bit of moving around now and it’s been pretty ok. It’s a city with approximately the same population as Mexico City. 22 million. With even fewer rules. So it’s going to be a little nuts.

    ~~~~~
    C: After a lovely interlude in the gorgeous ANA lounge in Narita, we boarded our 14+hr Egypt Air flight to Cairo. Where we discover that there is no alcohol served aboard. 😱😱😱 Unlike every other flight ever, we *could* have purchased alcohol in the airport and consumed it onboard. EgyptAir? More like SobrietyAir. 🤨 (To be fair, I arrived more hydrated than ever following a long-haul flight.)

    I know…you’re thinking, “There’s no alcohol so the focus will be on a stellar business class meal.” Oh, you are just adorable. Of the 50+ premium class meals I’ve put down my gullet, this was BY FAR the worst. So, PSA: if you ever fly SobrietyAir, bring your own drink AND food. Or use that time to start a fast. 🧘‍♀️

    We arrive Cairo @ 0430 and all I can say is, it is an abrupt transition to a world unlike any I’ve experienced thus far. Maybe it was coming from the polite calm of Japan. Or maybe, as we heard over and over during our time there, “Only in Cairo.”

    Ordered up an Uber as we left baggage claim but that did not deter the persistent offers for a taxi, very good price. We finally got to the meeting spot in the parking lot across the road when a few nice men come up saying, “Uber? I’m Uber.” All of them are our driver? I look at the app and our car is still 2 minutes away. 🤨 Hmmm… okay, let’s dance:

    Me: “What’s my name?”
    Him: Pauses. Points at my phone, “What does it say my name is?”
    Me: Laugh. “No, what’s MY name? You’re my driver, you have it in your app.”
    Him: Smiles, looks confused. “I am Uber driver. Where are you going?”
    Me: Smiles back. “You’re not MY Uber driver.”

    They had the good nature to know we were onto them and even helped us identify our actual driver because the license plates there are all in Arabic. I even felt a little bad because our driver acted as if he couldn’t be bothered and those other guys were actually hustling.

    Drive to the hotel was a bit reminiscent of México City and Vietnam—no real rules of the road, lots of honking.

    Arrived at the Conrad Cairo’s entrance—big ass security gate, armed guard and another guard with a bomb detector circles the car and scans the open trunk. I’m reminded of our submachine gun-toting escort on last year’s group tour to Luxor. Every person entering the hotel goes through a metal detector as all bags are scanned through an X-ray machine. This becomes the standard for most places, even the deli across from the Egyptian Museum. Egypt does not f**k around when it comes to security in group spaces. (Finding your rideshare on the other hand? Inshallah. Best of luck to you.) Given their history, it’s understandable, even admirable.

    Gorgeous sunrise from our balcony, enhanced by the layer of smog over the city. Looking down on rooftops, it looks like there’s been civil war in the neighborhood…maybe there was. Or it’s just a convenient storage spot for construction rubble.

    Crossing the 2-lane street in front our hotel is like being transported into a game of Frogger, with every other car honking at you to offer a ride. That was amateur hour…people would cross the road through 4 lanes of traffic at rush hour (it was only a 2 lane road, but Egyptian drivers don’t really do “lanes” and will fill any available space), not to be rebellious, there’s just no other option.    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    2Birthday boy with big smiles on the course
    2Birthday boy with big smiles on the courseDinner on the Nile with our new friends Vicktoria & FahdHappy 85th Birthday, Donny! 😂

    Donny’s Birthday 🥳

    May 16, 2024 in Egypt ☀️ 90 °F

    We celebrated Donny’s special day with a round of golf at the gorgeous New Giza Golf Club—fairways like a tight shag carpet. (I let Donny win 😘)

    After golf, a lovely lunch at new friend Vicktoria’s lovely flat, out on the patio with beers and bubbles. We had to drag ourselves away. She’s the hostess with the mostess!

    Back to the hotel for a quick snooze before Fahd & Victoria picked us up for a quick drive to dinner—on a boat sailing the Nile! Another great night, fun all around!

    Happy Birthday, Donny! 🥰    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    1
    1Gorgeous Thai food on the premises!

    Sharm Wedding

    May 19–26, 2024 in Egypt ☀️ 95 °F

    We said goodbye to Cairo and off to Sharm (Sharm El Sheikh) on the Sinai Peninsula. My niece is getting married and we weren't going to miss it. We arrived in the early afternoon to a nice ocean breeze. Checked in to the Park Regency Hotel with no hassle. This is the scene of the wedding also.
    We signed up for the Regency Club which was a slight upcharge. However it got us breakfast and happy hour appetizers (which we turned into dinner) along with free alcohol for the duration of our stay. Not bad.
    We scarcely left the reservation during our stay. The word back from others was that the vendors at the shopping areas are rather aggressive so we decided to pass. We did go for a hair coloring and a haircut the day of the wedding. Not that exciting.
    The weather was lovely if not a bit too hot some days. But the evening of the wedding was fantastic. A nice breeze and the low 80's. My niece Aoife married a wonderful Egyptian man Maruan. Maruan has an Egyptian father and a Austrian mother. Lovely, and very welcoming people.
    The wedding was held outside and afterparty were more geared to western traditions and went off almost without a hitch. The food at the reception was a buffet style and fabulous with all kinds of Egyptian foods and desserts. I tapped out at around 11pm but the party girl gave it a good run. Text from her at 4:12am. Don't wake me up. Hahaha.
    We stayed on five days after the wedding. Got to know the British Pro Consul to the area and her husband. Got to know Maruan's family a little better and had lazy days on the beach. BTW the water here is amazing and lots of coral and fish just off the shore. We had a wonderful time with no complaints.

    For those interested in Sharm's interesting history see the following link.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sharm_El_Sheikh

    C: I wouldn’t say “no complaints”…got a pretty severe case of “King Tut’s Revenge”, if you know what I mean. 🫤 Tried to power thru until the next to last morning there when I broke out into a sweat and thought I was going to pass out into my breakfast plate. Finally took a 1g dose of azithromycin and rested the day. Right as rain the next morning. Lesson learned: take the f**king antibiotic sooner!    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    The Jealous Wall @ Belvedere House outside Mullingar
    The Jealous Wall @ Belvedere House outside MullingarMike Moran and adorable baby TessaGorgeous beach @ Enniscrone360° view at (breezy) Carne golf linksThe Chomp visits Mullingar!Houseboats on the Royal Canal in MullingarAwesome food and cocktails @ Hilliard's in KillarneyWhoever planted wildflowers at our New Forest golf club, 👏 👏 👏Took €40 off the boys @ New Forest!1st wild hedgehog! Cuteness overload.

    Ireland Phase 1

    May 26 – Jul 4, 2024 in Ireland ☁️ 59 °F

    Tomorrow we are off to Portugal after 5 weeks in Ireland. A lot has happened.
    • Went to Killbeggan Horse Races.
    • Met the O'Donnell family (my mother’s extended family) at a one year anniversary mass in Gowran in County Kilkenny.
    • Played golf in Sligo and Mayo.
    • Visited Killarney and connected with friends and played some more golf, stopping off at Palmerstown to play golf on the way.
    • Attended my sister Gilly's 60th surprise Birthday Party in Dublin.
    • Had Chompie from Killarney come stay for two nights.
    • Met an old Boarding School friend who I hadn't seen in 40 years.
    • Got to hold my newborn grandnephew Leo.
    • Visited Mike and Hellena Moran's mansion in Elphin, Roscommon and attended the livestock auction while there.

    Fun times! We have being enjoying our Overseas Membership at New Forest Golf Club. Playing two to three times per week.
    It’s busting my balls but at least Caroline’s handicap is going 📉 so I’m beating her in our monthly competitions. Hooray.

    Jack sailed through twice once before Croatia and once after. Got to golf with him and he and Katy also came to Sligo with us. Great time.

    Have not done a thing with the flat in Mullingar. Well, I cleaned the windows. Didn't feel like we did much until I started writing this out. Weather is not looking great for Ireland these first few days of July so looking forward to sunshine in the Algarve.

    See ya soon!
    Donny and Caroline    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    1

    Carne Golf Links (Belmullet)

    June 17, 2024 in Ireland ☁️ 55 °F

    Quick trip out to the West to see the ocean and play one of my favorite courses in Ireland. Windy, tough, sore legs & lost golf balls like it was my job. Still smiles.

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    1
    11

    Palmerstown House Estate

    June 26, 2024 in Ireland ☁️ 72 °F

    Made plans to meet Uncle Joe for a late lunch at the Curragh so we headed SW for a golf beforehand at Palmerstown House Estate Golf club. Gorgeous course built on a current (and formerly larger) stud farm. Spread out and lots of water.
    Caroline had a great day and came in 2nd in the open (81 for 44 stableford points) to get a €40 credit. Hooray!
    Uncle Joe’s a character—practically the mayor of The Curragh with everyone greeting him by name and coming up to say hello (he’s been one of the tack veterinarians for many years). Regaled us with tales of Donny’s mother, Eva, in their youth.
    Now off to Killarney for a few nights to catch up and grab our travel golf bags for Portugal next week.    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    1Tavira
    1TaviraLoad of cork barkCork is a big deal for some of these townsWhite Stork NestsOverlooking Caldas de Monchique (hot springs town)1Drinks @ Em Lume BrandoFrom top left: Grilled mackerel in ponzu; Quail escabeche; Monkfish w/ broccoli sprouts; Pork bellyCaroline & Bua at Em Lume Brando in SalemaSalem beach and some nutterEspiche Golf CourseCool lichen @ EspicheQuinta Da Ria (east of Tavira)1Took a drive to the West coast to see the cliffs 😶‍🌫️A little birthday dance w/ João (after a few glasses of bubbly)

    The Algarve

    Jul 5–18, 2024 in Portugal ☀️ 81 °F

    We started the adventure in Portimão which is about an hours drive west of Faro Airport. Played golf with friends that we met in Thailand—Stephen & Bua. Took a drive into the hills north of the city. Learned a lot about cork (think wine stopper) and how it’s a very valuable industry in Portugal. 25 years before the first harvest and approximately every 10 years thereafter. Also, huge white storks are EVERYWHERE. Their nests are huge and built on the tallest thing they can find. They’re good for agriculture. See links below.

    From Portimão we moved over to Salema. Thought we booked an ocean view condo but ended up overlooking the very noisy pool…“Wake up to breathtaking ocean views..” my arse. Bought a 3 round package at the nearby Espiche Golf course. Tough track. Lost a lot of balls and disappointed they didn’t mention the greens had just been punched when we bought 3 rounds. Lesson learned. Awesome restaurant in Salema—Em Lume Brando, which means the slow flame. GREAT service and gorgeous food. Caroline was a happy girl celebrating her birthday there!

    Up next was Tavira (technically Cabanas da Tavira), on Mullingar friends’ recommendation. This is a lovely little town with lots of character about 8 miles from the Spanish border. Here we greeted Jack and Katy for a quick visit from the 12th to the 16th. Pretty casual with the highlight being 3 trips around the go-kart track. Once the kids left for Lisbon, we played some golf before packing up and moving north to Óbidos.

    Liked the Algarve but had a little sticker shock compared to our last trip in 2021. Easy to get around. Cool architecture. Hospitality service is still as nonchalant as it was 3 years ago. 🫤

    https://www.visitportugal.com/en/content/the-cork
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_stork

    https://autodromodoalgarve.com/

    https://algarve-south-portugal.com/tavira-portu…    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Looking over Óbidos from the castle wallWalking the ramparts - no handrailsAhhh...cooling breeze1Marine layer over West Cliffs2View from our apartment @ Royal ÓbidosFlamingos!!

    Óbidos

    Jul 18–25, 2024 in Portugal ☀️ 77 °F

    Two and a half hours north from the Algarve is a lovely walled town called Óbidos (AH•bee•duhsh). We did a day trip to the town which was nice. Had a drink or two after walking the castle wall. Gladly. Was what we call the usual for a tourist town, All the shops, vendors and restaurants. The castle wall is impressive. No railings on the ramparts and 10-60’ drops. Got the adrenaline going a bit.

    We found a Stay and Play deal at a nearby resort called Royal Óbidos Golf Club and Spa. 7 nights and five rounds of golf with options to play five different courses. The golf kept us busy. We also found some nice restaurants, a favorite of which was Saca Rohlas (corkscrew in Portuguese)—a little hole in the wall wine & tapas bar in a small town nearby. The owner was a hoot and the rabbit samosas were so yummy we ordered another round. Great vino too and and spectacular value—€50 for 8 glasses of wine & 5 generous tapas plates.

    We also did some drives just exploring. It is a really nice area. Nothing seems to be in a hurry with the exception of one or two crazy drivers. We saw flamingos, more storks and a giant carp that wanted to eat our golf ball retriever.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Óbidos,_Portugal

    https://westcliffs.com/en/homepage

    https://www.praia-del-rey.com/en/activities-golf

    https://www.royalobidos.com    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Recently harvested cork oaks
    Recently harvested cork oaksHarvested cork oak barkView from above our farmstay1We made it to the top! 😳Views over the driving range from the Dunas ClubhouseSo.Much.Sand. 🫨Dunas 18th from the greenYou're going to want the volume up for this one 🤣Super nice guyRoman ruins in EvoraFormer convent in the park in Evora2Beautiful cured mackerel @ Cavalariça (+ confirmation that Caroline does not like cured mackerel)Roasted leek, egg, & yogurt @ Sem PortaCheesecake with tomato jamOne of Mafra Palace's 29 inner courtyards/gardens1Mafra's Library took 40 years to build and holds over 36k volumes which are protected by batsA colony of bats lives in the library and eats insects that otherwise would eat the books!*Almost* as many mounts as my brother Riley!

    Portugal: The rest of the story

    Jul 25 – Aug 5, 2024 in Portugal ☀️ 84 °F

    From Óbidos we drove about 2 1/2 hours south (bypassing Lisbon) to a lovely farm stay just outside the town of Grândola (GRAHN-dooluh)—Herdade das Barradas da Serra, which roughly translates to Barred Mountain Estate. It’s a cork oak farm of some 1200 acres. We got there just at the end of the harvest which was quite interesting. They said it wasn't the best year because of dry conditions, making the cork bark more brittle and harder to harvest.

    The property was great. Nice swimming pool, small restaurant for breakfast and dinners, hikes on the property for miles and golf courses nearby. Hooray.

    For the golfers among us, we discovered a newly opened course called Terras da Comporta - Dunas Course, by one of our favorite designers, David McLay Kidd (his other works include Bandon Dunes, Gamble Sands, and Tetherow). We loved it! Staff were fantastic, gorgeous clubhouse and the course didn't let us down. Kind of like an inland links course winding through a forest of evergreens. Chatted with a gentleman at the bar who turned out to be the course superintendent —super nice guy who shared the very interesting story of how the course came to be.
    We had the unique experience of being played through by two guys ~10 years older than Donny, both of whom crushed their drive from the tips 50 yards beyond Donny’s very respectable drive. Turns out, one of them was former pro Tommy Armour III, so Donny’s ego was restored. 😂

    We found some great restaurants in the area and overall had a wonderful time. Did a day trip inland to the city of Évora. Took the back roads and both the journey and destination were well worth the time. We also did a side trip to Mafra National Palace. Well worth a visit. See Link

    https://www.barradasdaserra.pt/

    https://www.comporta.com/en/menu/golf/

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Évora

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palace_of_Mafra    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    12

    Ireland Phase II

    Sep 2–30, 2024 in Ireland ☁️ 59 °F

    After our wonderful time in Portugal it was back to Ireland and its mild August and September. It has been wonderful. Here's what we have done since.
    Wonderful week in Killarney. Spent with life long friends, Brendan, Chompie, Robb, Mush, Peter, Terry and Eamon.
    Had a rough time golfing our way around the country including Tralee, Dook's, Killarney, Mullingar, Belmullet, Connemara, Galway, Kilkock and I don't remember...
    We had the pleasure of going to Willy Mullins Stables to see the horse we have a share in. What a setup.
    Visited Leenaun which is located on the shore of Killary Harbor which is the only Fjord in Ireland. Killary is in Connemara which is in my opinion the most scenic area of Ireland.    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    The aqueduct in Agen
    The aqueduct in AgenCassoulet!Pont Royal Golf Course, Hole 6Sunset from our flatGolf de Servanes - look at that sky! 🤩1Oaks at Golf de ServanesNot the welcome you're expecting at a winery...You can walk inside the belly 😱 but it was closed the day we wentWe're going to need a bigger jar!Art @ Château La CosteChapel above Moustiers-Sainte-MarieSuch a gorgeous little villageView from the 'stairway to heaven' above Moustiers-Sainte-MarieFrom Pont du Galetas over the Lac de Sainte-Croix at the tail end of the Gorge VerdonGorge Verdon - photos just don't do it justice.View eastward from the quaint village of BargémeRoman ruins of a "Temple of Diana" behind Château Bas wineryJust a *little* rosé at the local market2Cooked duck breast for the first time = 😍

    South of France Part 1

    Sep 30 – Oct 23, 2024 in France ☁️ 73 °F

    France is a great place (and would probably be even greater if we could speak the language… man do they take it seriously 😳).

    Flew into Bordeaux, picked up rental car and away we go. Broke up the trip south with a walk along the canals and aqueduct in Agen, then a night in Toulouse. Dinner at L'Os a Moelle—Caroline is obsessed with cassoulet so guess what we had in the home of Cassoulet? Yup, plus some foie gras for me. Yum!

    Now we are in Pont Royal in Provence, about midway between Avignon & Aix-en-Provence (btw, Aix is pronounced “aches” like, “Ow, my tooth aches.”). It’s a golf community with a Seve Ballesteros-designed course. Kicking Caroline's ass again for the most part. Haha. There’s a large canal nearby (the French really take their water seriously) which has a decent gravel path along each side for walking. The weather has been gorgeous…a few rain showers and some wind but generally high 60’s/low 70’s (20-22°C) and lots of sunshine.

    So far:
    ~ Some wine tasting, including a stroll around Chateau La Coste with some seriously impressive (and definitely weird) sculpture;
    ~ Farmers markets—you can basically find a market in a nearby town any day of the week
    ~ Road trips to the Grand Canyon of France—Gorge Verdon and some very cute villages that are built into the hillsides.

    Today we’re off to L’Isle Sur La Sorgue for another farmers market that is also known for antiques and canals.

    https://www.golf-pontroyal.com/en/
    https://chateau-la-coste.com/en/
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Verdon_Gorge
    https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-antiques-mark…    Read more

  • Around the World ‘24-25
    Cape Town Museum of Modern Art - built inside an old grain silo on the waterfront1Gorgeous food & drink!Lunch @ Chef's Warehouse - TintswaloTortoise @ Atlantic Beach LinksWildlife @ Atlantic Beach LinksBlack-headed Heron @ BloubergstrandHaving a little too much fun waiting for the Uber after Tracey's bday @ De GrendelGorgeous gorgeous food @ La Colombe - Constantia

    Cape Town

    October 30, 2024 in South Africa 🌬 66 °F

    After two pleasant flights and a long connection in Istanbul, we arrived in Cape Town. Had the pleasure of hanging out with great friends from our years in Seattle who grew up here in CT and have family here.
    We celebrated two birthdays multiple times. For good reason, the food scene and wines here are first class.    Read more

    Trip end
    April 18, 2025