• Nancy Webb...Pat Bonetar
  • Nancy Webb...Pat Bonetar

Hash-Packing the World

Whether you know me as Nancy Webb or Pat Bonetar, I hope you enjoyed my trip through 4 continents and 17 countries! I can't wait to do it again!! Weiterlesen
  • Jardine Ferry X-ing (Outback Trip Day 4)

    1. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We free camped last night near Fruit Bat Falls, and one of the guys grabbed some red claws (similar to crayfish) from the nearby creek. The Falls were beautiful and we went for a swim yesterday before we met up with the bikes and again this morning before heading to the ferry crossing.

    Day 1 bike status:
    - Brian came off and smashed into a tree hard enough to knock the bark off and probably break his hand. He's riding today, though.
    - Aaron drowned his bike, so he's in the other car with Dave.
    - There were a few other minor issues the boys were able to overcome.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • The Tip (Outback Trip Day 6)

    3. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Yesterday, five of us took the Toyota up the Roma Flat track. It was a really good thing the truck was 4 wheel drive! Loads of fun!

    This morning we all got up for brekky, then headed off for The Tip, the northern most point of Australia. Ten bikes went up and five of us went on the Toyota. The truck took the long way in the hardpacked road while the bikes headed up Roma. We met up and drove up to The Tip for a picture by the sign.

    After that, we headed to Somerset, where Steve's greatgrandparents are now buried. Their remains were returned a couple of years ago from Germany. They and nine other Aboriginals were "sent" (kidnapped) there to be "studied" (murdered) by Nazis. All were killed.

    We left there towards the east coast near Albany Island, where we hopped through the bush between five beaches. Stunningly beautiful waters and landscapes. We're at the last beach the truck could get to, and the bikes have just returned from the sixth beach. Yeehaw!!!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Back at Bramwell (Outback Trip Day 8)

    5. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    The two cars met up with the 11 bikes at the Jardine Ferry Crossing. After we crossed, the bikes took off and we all met up back at Fruit Bat Falls to camp again.

    We had a great evening with a large bonfire, a feed of lamb chops and curry mince, and a jaunt in the creek for red claws. I blew out my jandals/thongs/flip-flops, so I'm down to my trainers/tennis shoes now. I'll grab a cheap pair at one of the tourist stops.

    Now, the two cars have made it back to Bramwell where we left the other two cars. When the bikes get here, we'll load everything up and continue to Cooktown.

    This is absolutely an amazing trip that normal tourists simply don't get to do. I am so very lucky.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️

    P.S.: By the time I finished typing this, the first bike pulled up. Yay!
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  • Laura Roadhouse (Outback Trip Day 9)

    6. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We stayed at the [S]Exchange Hotel in Coen last night, several in rooms, a few, including me, in the campground. Pizza, beer, music, and mates. Another great night.

    We left early this morning (0700) for the next leg to Cooktown, which will be 600 km.

    We've just pulled out of Laura where we checked the loads and put air in some tires.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Lions Den (Outback Trip Day 10)

    7. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We camped last night at the Lions Den, an old pub and guesthouse that formerly served miners. My name is on the wall now.

    This morning the boys said we broke the record at the bar. After looking at my wallet, I can see why. 😮 But what a terrific time!

    Today I am sleeping in the car while we make our way to Port Douglas.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Laundry & Planning

    9. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Soak and I got back to his house in Bushland Beach yesterday afternoon after dropping Brett off at his house.

    Today is laundry day and planning for the rest of my Oz trip. Right now I'm trying to download all my Google Photos, which is being a pain.

    Maximum is really glad Soak is back, and even I got a few kisses.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Things Are Coming Together

    13. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    This morning I put a deposit down on my FJ Cruiser roof rack in Ohio, found a place to live in Texas (fingers crossed there's a spot), and made the rest of my travel in Queensland. Yay!

    Today is my last full day in Townsville and I will definitely miss it and my amazing friends. I hope to get together with some tonight.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Airlie Beach

    15. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I made it to Airlie Beach last night. I met up with the other seven Stray passengers for dinner, then I was back in my upper bunk with a book.

    I walked around a little this morning. The town has a beautiful man-made lagoon, which serves as a swimming, picnic, and fitness area. It's right on the beach, and there are several businesses just behind it. I had brekky at a lovely cafe, then went to check in for my trip this afternoon: two nights on a 50-foot catamaran sailing around the Whitsunday Islands. Yay!

    Now I've met up with the other five Stray passengers who are also going on the boat. We should have a lot of fun!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Whitsunday Islands

    16. Juli 2019, Great Barrier Reef ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We left port yesterday and made our way out to the islands under power. I'm not sure why we're not sailing, but we're getting there regardless.

    Most of the 22 passengers went snorkeling, but I stayed in the boat. Maybe tomorrow. After everyone was back onboard, we continued on to our sleeping mooring at Tongue Point just off Whitsunday Island. On the way, we watched a glorious sunset behind an island. Then it.was dinner, drinks, and Cards Against Humanity with people from England, Canada, France, New Zealand, Ireland, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Germany. It was a really great evening.

    My bunk in the very front of the starboard hull had a couple of wet spots from leaks, but I didn't feel any drips on me overnight and rested very well.

    We awoke about 07:00 for breakfast, then made our way to the nearby shore of Whitsunday Island (the big one) to visit Whitehaven Bay. The sand was some of the purest in the world, over 98 percent pure silica. Gorgeous! Plus, there were humongous sting rays in the crystal blue and emerald green water. Amazing!

    Now, we've just returned to the boat for lunch. This is a fantastic trip!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Back in Airlie Beach

    17. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    After leaving Whitsunday Island, we headed north to our first snorkel spot of the day at Hook Island Reef. There we introduced ourselves to George and Georgina, two huge Maori Wrasse well known to the locals. We also saw several large bat fish, loads of small reef fish, numerous black giant trevally, and a huge flowery cod. Bonus event...while we were waiting for the last few swimmers to get back to the boat, we began seeing blow from several humpback whales! They didn't get close to us and it's illegal to chase after them, but we could still see the humps breaching the surface. Incredible!!

    We moved on to what was supposed to be a second snorkel stop, but the bay was jam packed with boats and no one was very keen on going. So, we moved in to the sandy spit of Langford Island for a magnificent sunset and moonrise. Just stunning.

    We spent the evening birthed near Hook Island and had another great night with new friends.

    We were up again at 07:00 and most of the folks were soon snorkeling in the nearby cove. I passed again. Although the fish were awesome, the corals are badly damaged from 2017's Cyclone Debbie. Overall, it's not a great snorkel location, but I kept that sentiment to myself since some of the group were brand new to snorkeling.

    After that, we pretty much headed straight back to Airlie Beach. Again, we put up the main sail and the front sail, but never turned off the engines. It was disappointing to go on a sailboat and not sail, but the rest of the trip was terrific.

    Now, I'm catching up on virtual life and just about to get some lunch. Life ITRW is sweet as!!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Great Keppel Island

    18. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After getting back to Airlie Beach yesterday, I grabbed some lunch, took a long walk all the way down the beach to the sailing club and back, and hung out at the hostel with a book until our bus came at a little after 17:00.

    By about 18:15 we were back on the southbound train headed for Rockhampton Station. We arrived at 01:00 after a very uncomfortable trip. If you have two seats in the train, you're very lucky. I only had one next to another Stray journeyer, and despite the ample leg room, there was no way to get the back of your legs off the edge of the seat. Trying to keep my ankles from swelling, I got about an hour of rest on the floor behind the last seat before a conductor kicked me awake, then spent the remainder of the ride in the dining car with my book. Ugh. We got a Stray van ride to the hostel in Emu Park arriving around 01:45, and I finally got to sleep somewhere around 03:30.

    We were up this morning before 08:00 for brekky and headed by van to the Keppel Ferry to the big island for the day. I kayaked with three others while the other three paddle boarded. Now they've taken off to the other side of the island to snorkel, but I'm really weary with one of the girls, so I'm staying in the shade at the restaurant with a cold cider and a book. Really nice day so far.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Agnes Waters

    19. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    The 16:00 return ferry trip from Keppel was uneventful except for the smoke on the horizon (two pictures). The Aussie sitting next to me believed it to be from Talisman Sabre 2019, a Australian/US (and others) naval exercise taking place in Shoalwater Bay Training Area just north of Emu Park. I remember hearing about this while I was in the military, but never had the opportunity to participate. See more here: http://www.navy.gov.au/operations-and-exercises…. Nevertheless, we finally concluded it must be coming from the Bifield State Forest. Either way, I haven't seen anything on the news.

    We were back at the hostel around 18:00 or so, but with dinner delayed until 20:30, when the northbound Stray passengers would arrive, we just went to our rooms to clean up and rest. By 20:30, we were starving, and the small bowls of curry went down fast. It was lights out by 21:30 because of our departure at 06:00. Ugh.

    We all made the early departure and caught the train at 07:20. I jumped off at Miriam Vale, then jumped in a shuttle to Agnes Waters. Luckily, I could check in when I arrived about 10:30.

    Now, I'm finishing my book and trying to ignore the rumbling in my tummy yelling me to get some food.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Between Agnes Water & 1770

    19. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Yesterday, I finished my book, grabbed some fish and chips (not great), then walked to the visitor center about half a kilometer away. I had already looked up some of the walking trails online, but wanted to grab a hard copy map, which I did.

    From there I did the Discovery Trail loop, also about half a kilometer, to the Lookout on the south end of Agnes Water Beach. It was a gorgeous day for a stroll and beautiful pictures.

    After I got back to the hostel, I holed up on the sofa again with another book, my phone, my iPod, and a blanket and pillows, where I stayed for the remainder of the evening except for when I made and ate dinner.

    This morning I slept in, ate the rest of dinner, and left the hostel at 11:00. I need to wait until after high tide at 10:30 to begin my walk up the beach to 1770, where I'm now headed. Another gorgeous day!!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • On to Rainbow Beach

    21. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Wow! Yesterday's walk was really long! The stroll up the beach took about an hour and a half. At the end of the beach were cliffs, but there was a tiny path leasing up and around. I popped out at the top of the cliffs by some stunning vacation homes near the lookout point. I went a little way down the bluff to hop on the walking path, which then took me back up. I wound up adding an extra kilometer to the day, but it didn't make much difference.

    After making it to the top, I went back down the walking path to the Captain Cook memorial marking the site at which he landed on 24 May 1770. The cairn was pretty cool.

    By this time it was about 14:00, and I was starving and out of water, so I continued following the path into the tiny Town until I found an open cafe. A quick bite of duck spring rolls (yum!) and a water bottle refill (with ice courtesy of the nice bartender), then I was off again for the walk back to Agnes Water.

    I got back to the hostel about 17:00 after about 7.5 miles/12-13 kilometers. Whew! I cleaned up, mostly packed, made dinner, and chilled with a book the rest of the evening.

    I was out of bed a little before 07:00 to have brekky and finish packing. The shuttle picked me up at 08:00 and dropped me at the Miriam Vale station for my 09:00 train. The driver and owner of the shuttle company bought me a coffee before dropping me off as thanks for spurring her to rent a caravan and tour around New Zealand with her husband and 14-year-old son this coming summer. I hope they make it.

    Now, I'm on the train with a few Stray folks, three of which I met before, and we're heading for Rainbow Beach. Fraser Island, here I come!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • K'gari Island (a.k.a. Fraser)

    22. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    After arriving in Rainbow Beach yesterday, I took a walk on the beach then visited the Surf Life Saving Club for a couple of beers. Then it was back to the hostel where I ran into the three other Stray journeyers. We went across the street to the Rainbow Beach Hotel for another couple of drinks, but we were back at the hostel before 21:30. A quick shower, then off to bed.

    My first contact with the morning world was a desperate email from my tour guide Troy. He couldn't find me...in Noosa. I called him to explain that I was in Rainbow Beach, about an hour and a half drive north of him.

    Anyway, Troy collected me and some others around 10:00, and the 29 of us were off in four Landcruisers! Just a few minutes up the coast we came to the ferry. While waiting for the boat we spotted Australasian humpback dolphins, which live in estuarine areas.

    We crossed over to a magical land of salt, surf, and sand. K'gari is the world's largest sand island. There is no soil. We began our 4-wheel drive trek up 75-Mile Beach, disturbing several flocks of crested terns.

    We've just stopped to switch drivers in the other three vehicles (we drive ourselves). I'm in the lead truck with Troy. Yay!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Champagne Pools

    23. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    What an incredible trip! So much has happened in the past 24 hours. Here's a quick recap:

    While driving up, I kept seeing fuzzy, spongy, oblong things on the beach and, once we got to our camp site, discovered they were the flowers from Banksia trees.

    After our lunch we took a 5 km walk to Lake Wabby, which was formed by a sand blow blocking a freshwater stream. The water was cold but beautiful. The sand was loose, warm, and a pain in the calves.

    We saw a white bellied sea eagle, which is so large it will eat dingo pups if given the opportunity.

    We had dinner in camp and watched sunset in the beach. Afterwards, two Butchulla (indigenous tribe) park rangers, Navo and Deb, took me and Deb's little cousin Hope down to the pub for a few games if pool and a couple of beers. Wonderful people and a great time. Then it was back to camp and stargazing.

    We greeted the dawn by learning how to throw boomerangs on the beach. Fortunately, no one was decapitated.

    After a fast and hot breakfast, we were back in the trucks and heading north again. We soon came to a part of the beach that appeared rocky. But these were Coffee Rocks, the remains of an ancient forest that had petrified. You could see some of tree stumps. The "rocks" will crumble with some pressure, so I was surprised we were allowed to drive on them.

    Soon after that, we saw our first humpback whales, several of which were slapping the water's surface with their pectoral fins. This is their migration time here.

    Just as we urned away from the humpbacks, we passed The Pinnacles, a rough, sandy pair of cliff faces that, just like those at Rainbow Beach, gave us a magnificent view of the multicolored striations in the sand.

    Next we came across a lone female dingo on the beach. She had a radio collar on, which we learned from a ranger a little later that it was necessary to track he because she was being aggressive towards people, mainly kids, at Eli Creek. These collars are "smart"; they automatically release if they sense the animal gets hung by it or once the battery life runs out. Pretty cool.

    Just a little further north was Eli Creek, which pumps out 3 to 4 million liters of freshwater every day. We took the boardwalk upstream then walked down to the vehicles. In the stream there were small jungle perch.

    Still making our way north, we passed two Whistling Kites on the beach and reached Champagne Pools. I didn't go all the way down to the water since I wasn't swimming. Instead, a Dutch lady Jannie (pronounced like the pianist Yanny) and I stayed on the cliffs and watched dozens of humpbacks breaching, waving fins, and slamming their flukes (tails). We also spotted three turtles, but two could've been the same one.

    On the walk down from the Pools, Troy taught us about Pigs Face, a succulent that produces a fruit both sweet and salty. It tastes similar to a salty strawberry.

    We're just walking back to the cars now to have some lunch on the beach. What a day...and it's only half over!

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Central Station Campground

    24. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The excitement never ends. Here's what happened in the last 24 hours:

    During our beach lunch we saw an osprey and a whistling kite dog fighting over the beach right above us. Wow! The osprey was so much larger, but the kite gave it his best before hightailing it out of there.

    After lunch we climbed Indian Head. We immediately saw several pilot whales, a pod of bottlenose dolphins resting on the surface, several eagle rays, and a large school of giant Spanish mackerel. Our gymnastic humpbacks were in even greater form this afternoon. At one point we saw six--SIX!--breach at the same time. We also spotted another turtle and what Troy believed was a massive tuna. Just as we were leaving Indian Head, one final look out to sea offered us a very rare glimpse of a female humpback with an hours old calf. We could see mom's big breath, then baby's tiny ones as it hugged her side near her hump. Troy said it was, in his four years, the "whaley-est" trip he's ever had.

    On our way back to camp, we stopped at the Maheno shipwreck that washed up in the island in 1935 after an illustrious life as a cruise ship and a medical ship during World War I. I'll let you read about her here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Maheno

    After dinner, Navo and Deb along with Uncle Joe put on a traditional dance and song in the beach for us and another Drop Bear group staying in town. There was a film crew taking footage of the event for their movie "Refugia."

    Day 3 began with another beautiful sunrise, then breakfast and packing. We jumped in the trucks, dropped off the baggage trailer, and headed inland. Our first stop was Pile Valley and its magnificent trees that have never been logged. They are even more incredible considering there is no soil here, just sand.

    Next we made our way to Boorangoora (Lake McKenzie). The lake is made solely from rain water. Aluminum in its sand filters out the tannins that leech from tea tree (paper bark) root systems, which typically turn water a red-brown color. We were the first ones there and were able to get some uncommon pictures of the almost perfectly still water.

    While everyone else went swimming, I took a walk around part of the lake where I spotted a pied cormorant. I also walked a bit of beach that hadn't had anyone disturb it yet and noticed several different footprints in the ankle-deep water. Troy believed they were goana and kangaroo rat tracks.

    Now we're at Central Station Campground. This is the only location in the world where a rainforest grows on sand!

    We've walked down to Wanggoora Creek, a sacred spot for the Butchulla women. At first glance the creek looks like it's just a sand bank. Then you notice the sunlight glinting off the water surface and realize its water is just that clear. Beautiful. We spotted a kookaburra, piccabeen palms, and giant ferns, one of the oldest plants on Earth.

    We're about to have lunch and we already have a couple of little stalkers, two gray butcher birds who will take food right out of your hand (but you're not allowed to feed them).

    I can't believe this trip is almost over.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
    Weiterlesen

  • Noosa Heads

    25. Juli 2019 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    After lunch yesterday we made our way back to the baggage trailer, which was parked at Drop Bear Headquarters. We stopped for a few minutes...long enough to have a delicious icy pop!

    We picked up the trailer and headed to the beach for the drive south. When we immediately saw a humpback smacking the water with his fin over and over again, we laughed about how it seemed like he was waving at us. Turns out, he was our last whale sighting on the trip, so I guess he really was saying goodbye.

    Just after wrapping out hearts around our final farewell, one latecomer finally made his appearance. A male dingo leisurely strolled by our vehicles, unconcerned with our presence. We also saw some red-capped plovers and a white-faced heron during our trip back to the ferry.

    While we were waiting for the ferry,Troy and I noticed a dead Australasian gannet on the beach, and he picked out a dead turtle coming in with the tide. Fortunately those weren't my last wildlife images in K'gari. While waiting for the ferry I showed a couple of young women the tiny jellyfish that were washed up on shore. You could see the tiny striations on the outside of their translucent bodies and on the inside the beginnings of what would be their tentacles. I'm glad the ladies were as intrigued as I was. It was a quick ferry ride over to the mainland, and we were--much too soon--dropped off back at Rainbow Beach.

    But instead of going back to the hostel, I grabbed my bag and began walking. After three days of walking in nothing but loose sand, my legs were shot, so I knew if I went back to the hostel that I would sit down and not get back up.

    So, off I walked up, up, up the 1.7-kilometer path to the Carlo Sand Blow overlooking the beautifully striped cliffs from which the town of Rainbow Beach took its name. I found a nice place to sit and watched most of the sunset. Then I walked back down to the hostel.

    I checked in, threw my stuff on a bed (upper bunk only, yuck), and kept walking down the block to get a really good burger. I walked back to the hostel, sat down in my bed, and...yep, you guessed it...didn't move again until morning.

    I was up this morning to take a really long hot shower to get all the sand off of me, then Stray loaded us up and began our 1.5-hour drive south to Noosa Heads, which is where I am now. I'm staying at the youth hostel Halse Lodge, which is a historic building and in much the same condition as depicted on the sign outside (the back has a great quote from Emerson).

    Now, I'm waiting to check in to a dorm room. I couldn't get a private room, which at $70AUD per night is a steal in this town, but maybe they'll have a cancellation before I leave.

    So long [for now] and thanks for all the fish. ✌️
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