Travelling to places we both want to go Weiterlesen Manchester, United Kingdom
  • Tag 6

    6. Harris to Lewis via big hills

    17. Mai in Schottland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We cycled out in lovely weather and went past the beautiful beaches of Seilobost estuary and then began to climb. At one stage I thought that this was the major climb of the morning, only to go around a corner to see the real climb ahead. We all managed to bridge this and began the drop into Tarbert and the lovely inland harbour.

    It was lovely that in the Harbour was the Hebridean Princess the cruise ship that mum and dad loved to cruise the Scottish islands. It turned out Pete’s parents had also been on it.

    We met up with Pete at the coffee stop on the main road for breakfast. We then visited the isle of Harris tweed shop (flat caps purchased). Outside of this we met with a French cyclist who had cycled from Paris and was zooming along the islands, travelling light with one of the bags Julia had mentioned sticking out the back. We gave him a coffee recommendation. We also gave another cafe recommendation to another couple who we later met up with.

    We had a quick visit to the Tarbert distillery for whisky and gin tasting. Purchases were made and Pete took them back to the van and then went onto do some shopping.

    We then started out on the Heb way route out of Tarbert. My map had been to do the Golden road route but Vin felt it would be easier this way (looking at inclines afterwards it probably was) .

    So we started going uphill which was …a challenge. We persuaded Jim that he should use his lowest gears and he then sailed past us both and zoomed up the mountain. He waited for us at what he thought was the top of the climb only for us to find that it was half way.!!

    By this time we were in the mist and views above made it impossible to see any eagles etc. it also made it slightly windy with cross winds and head winds making handling difficult. I was amazed when a lady came by with her bike laden with panniers climbing faster than any of us.

    We went over the top after 6 miles of climbing with the first mile at 7.5% and ramps of 12% and a total average of 3%. It was cold and damp at the top so I put a jacket on and zoomed down the other side.

    We descended quickly, looking forward to meeting up with Pete. Jim and I saw a large bird (?baby eagle or large buzzard) whilst Vin was informed by the above couple that our next stop - the Kinloch cafe was closed. We , later found them there and it turned out they were on their honeymoon. Pete had info about another cafe a mile later, but we all missed it completely. We were now desperate and so we stopped at a layout for a drink and snack. Lo and behold we met up with the French guy again. He was getting tired and had run out of water so we topped him up and sent him on his way with a protein bar.

    Later, we saw 2 deer which Jim and I frightened so much they ran away, so the photos are of small backsides. We also saw yet another buzzard. We arrived at Callanish bushed, the last few miles of the 51 miles we did today were dead straight, but still up and down.

    At the Callanish stones smaller in height but older than Stonehenge more than 5000 yrs old. They have no idea why they are there. We chatted to the lady who said that old men were called “bodoch”. We went to the stones and went around a bit but we were getting cold and needed to get going

    We went to the smallest fish and chip shop in the world on a surreal small road. We took them back to our campsite which is functional but in the mist you cannot see much.
    We had an early night to recover.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 5

    5b. Leverburgh to Horgabost Harris

    16. Mai in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    As we approached Leverburgh port, we could see the clouds rolling down the mountains Greabhal (270m) to the left and Raineabhal (460m) to the right in front. We knew it might be cold and windy, so we layered up. We were also aware that as we were now too late for the supermarket, dinner would be something light.

    We went around the mountain, along a pass with golden sands to one side and steep rock above us but the wind right into our faces. It made for hard riding conditions and the salt marshes to our left were not really appreciated.

    That is until we came to Scarista sands. A marvelous inland bay of golden sands stretching out into the distance. We stopped several times to just gaze in awe.

    The terrain suited Vin better than Jim and I, but we regrouped at the beautifully situated Harris golf course and laughed at the thought of playing a round there.

    We continued to the next bay and paused at Talla na Mara to see whether the restaurant was open but staffing problems meant it was not. We saw this staffing issue in a lot of places.

    Just a mile further we ended up at our planned Horgabost site with Pete having set up. We had a snack tea sitting outside in the dunes.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 5

    5a. North Uist to Berneray

    16. Mai in Schottland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Sad to leave Moorcroft, a lovely campsite, we were on the road at 0915 and went at a good pace for the next hour. We had some lovely beach and inlet views as we went along the west coast. We came down a long hill into a wide bay, where our breakfast stop was at the beautifully situated “wee kitchen”.

    After a lovely break in the sun, overlooking the golden sands of the bay, we carried on over more hills and a causeway to another island Berneray (our 7th). The causeway opened in 1999, and must have dramatically changed the locals lives.

    At what constitutes for the ferry port (possibly the smallest so far), we chatted to other travelers, including a lady from York who was cycling on her own and recommended the RSPB site on the previous island. She was going to do the “Golden road” in Harris. (So say because it cost a lot of money to install). Pete arrived after “exploring” the rest of the island (one single post code it seemed) - having missed the ferry sign post at the Causeway exit. .

    All was good, until we were rejected because our ticket was for the following day. We were assured we would get on the next one at 1700. So we parked up in first place for the next ferry and walked to the Bernaray cafe that had some great food and coffee. It was a really lively place with walkers, cyclists and locals. We also saw the Croft Commission people, who we had seen two days earlier, obviously on a tour to review tenants.

    Whilst we had an afternoon snooze in the van, the weather turned and the visibility came down. This meant that once we were on the ferry, we missed seeing the small
    Islands that were passing by.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 4

    4. South Uist to North Uist

    15. Mai in Schottland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Pete took us up to Daliburgh, where we got to the day before. We started and immediately Jim’s bike suffered a rear puncture. Although, the repair went well, the pumps we had were not putting enough air in. We managed to contact Pete and he returned with the big pump and we got Jim underway again.

    By now, the sun was shining and the morning clouds burnt away, we were on lovely flat roads with wonderful views around us. We took a detour and found a church and bird viewing hut (I cannot remember why I put that bookmark in!). Jim and Vin were unimpressed.

    At the top of one hill, towering 9 metres (30 feet) above South Uist, 'Our Lady of the Isles' is an iconic landmark. The statue, made from granite, depicts Madonna and child. It is considered to be one of the finest works (1957) of sculptor Hew Lorimer. The face of the Madonna is supposed to resemble a typical island woman. Jim surveyed the westerly panorama view which was wonderful. Vin stayed at the roadside and snoozed in the sun.

    We continued on and left South Uist by yet another causeway and continued onto Benbecula (Island 5). We met with Pete at the Dark Island hotel and had a delightful Cullen skink. We carried on and after passing Borve castle and some wonderful golden sands and blue seas we came across North Uist distillery. A little, unassuming conversion underway of an old farmyard. They were already making gin on N Uist and were preparing to start whisky making here. The traditional, grapefruit and Negroni were tasting favorites and we all bought taster packs.

    We meandered around Benbecula airfield, past the under construction Benbecula distillery (future competition to N.Uist) and headed off Benbecula via multiple bridges and causeways onto North Uist. Pete had sent photos of the campsite but as always reality was even better.

    With wonderful views, several birds, sheep and ponies to watch we relaxed in the sunshine. Jim cooked in the camp kitchen with multiple welcome advices from fellow campers. After a delightful meal taken in the open air, we watched United accompanied by multiple observations of how to improve everything, fueled by some of the medical whisky. LOL. A fun end to a memorable day.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 3

    3. Barra to S.Uist

    14. Mai in Schottland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We woke to continual rain, however, at 0730 the rain abated and I managed to strike the tent in the dry. After a coffee, we got on our way at 0900, in rain again. We passed some beautiful beaches, with yellow primrose and gorse strewn roadsides. We rode over sharp up and downs around interior lochs and even saw what looked like a half finished building over a stream - not a good idea.

    We took a slight detour to the viewing point for Barra airport with obligatory photos. Barra is the only airport in the world to use a tidal beach as the runway for scheduled flights. The airport opened on the tip of Barra in 1936 to carry passengers to and from Glasgow. The beach has three runways marked by wooden poles.

    Then over the hills away from habitation. We came down to Ardhmor - a remote ferry terminal in plenty of time for the 1050 ferry. We said goodbye to Barra.

    It was a smooth journey but we stayed in the van to keep warm. Arriving in Eriskay, we got back on the bikes and saw the dismaying sight of Pete disappearing up a steep hill, knowing we would have to follow. The roadside was littered with cyclists and walkers.

    Alongside us was Prince Charlie’s Bay, which is said to be the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish soil in 1745 before he started his Jacobite uprising to claim the British throne.

    We remet with Pete in just 2.5 miles at the Politican pub for lunch. This is named after the ship - the Politican” which ran aground and spilt loads of whisky bottles. This story was retold in Whisky Galore by Compton Mackenzie. The bar had some supposed relics and a half empty bottle of whisky from the wreck.

    The place was buzzing and we all had a very tasty lunch. We left Eriskay via the causeway (looking out for Otters but not seeing them) and met with a story teller and horse who were both interesting characters. He had just walked to the ferry from our campsite and back.

    The weather started to clear as we entered East Kilbride and we sailed past our campsite for the night and we decided to meet Pete in Daliburgh and get some of tomorrow’s miles under our belt. We left the main road and meandered along back lanes, past ruins and rundown farms. The fields were littered with old farm machinery and plastic drums. There were few communities, more neighbouring crofts.

    We arrived at the Coop in Daliburgh, bought some night cap whisky (medicinal purpose only). Vin and I cycled back along the road at pace (Jim returned with Pete).

    We relaxed, showered and then went back to the Politician (by van) for an amazing dinner. All 4 of us having the tomato/chili/coconut soup which was sensational. We had a good evening, planned tomorrow’s route, watched some football and left before dark to return to the campsite.

    Today we saw 2 short eared owls in flight, a couple of cormorants and a couple of Common Buzzards.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 2

    2. To the Outer Hebrides

    13. Mai in Schottland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We all woke up early, hastened by the birds morning chorus. I struck the tent and we got going into Oban. We parked up in Tesco to get some little extras and then had breakfast in the Weatherspoons overlooking the harbour. At the time, the weather was lovely and it was nice to look at where mum and dad started so many of their holidays.

    Jim put the post code to the ferry terminal into the sat nav (it was behind us) and it took Pete up the steepest hill in Oban. With the road getting narrower and narrower, there were a few choice words before we eventually arrived.

    We were pretty much the last one onto the ferry and Jim got irritated by what he perceived as biased, anti big van, loading procedure. :)

    The journey across the Minch started calm in the shelter of Mull and the mainland. We then passed Rhum and Eig and headed out away from land. Jim informed us people were seeing dolphins, I thought I saw some, but Jim remained skeptical. The famous Minch roll began to move the boat a bit and the boat slowed.

    We went for a nice tea on the boat, as we planned to do the first 6 miles of cycling on arrival and would not have time for any cooking. We sat in the reclining chairs and I fell asleep. The guys woke me as we arrived in Castlebay.

    We landed about 1815 and drove onto Vatersay and had to go beyond the start to turn the van around. We began the ride in rain and this became more incessant as we hit the hill going back towards Barra. We had to navigate cars, a lot of cows and stopped for some amazing scenes especially the wonderful beaches of Vatersay.

    We arrived at Borve campsite at 1930, after 6.7miles in pouring rain and had to sort out the bikes and put up the tent. Jim sorted out drying clothes and we planned the next day, sitting in the van, looking west towards America. The rain did not stop.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 1

    1. England to Scotland

    12. Mai in Schottland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The planned 8 hr journey (~400miles) from Alderley Edge to Oban was stymied by an 0730 call from Jim that the van was leaking water.

    We investigated and decided to ignore it for the moment and contact the company, once they opened. We reached Preston and the McRent employee identified the problem as she walked to the van. 30seconds later the problem (a water drain valve) was solved!!

    With the water topped up and Pete driving we brunched at Tebay and had a stop on Hamilton, topped up petrol at Erskine Bridge and drove through drizzle to arrive at Connell Bridge Oyster Inn for a lovely tea and a disappointing Man Utd result. After a miraculous Pete maneuver we managed to escape the car park and carried on to the campsite at 1915.

    The van just got the under entrance gate and we parked up in a field of midges (it seems)

    A glass of wine and then to bed.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 5

    The final return home

    2. Mai in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Limping down to breakfast, we found that the contracted van man (to return our bikes) had a broken van (for at least a couple of days) but had not told anyone. We eventually found a van from Enterprise in Bristol, and VIren dropped Mervyn off on the way through on their return.

    Mervyn got back to Wells about 1300 just in time to see Julia, Barbara, David and Carys welcome in Ian to Wells from his many bus journeys.

    We loaded the van and all made our way home.

    According to Strava 213 miles; 12,400 ft of climbing, 9 coffee stops and 4 hotels delivered the 6 of us from Wilmslow to Wells. We had some real challenges to overcome, with lots of chat and banter, all surpassed by the beautiful countryside and the support (verbal and monetary) from many people along the way.

    A wonderful challenge with great friends.
    Weiterlesen

  • Tag 4

    Day 4 part 2 - Bristol to Wells

    1. Mai in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We went into Bristol along the Portway passing under Brunel’s Clifton Suspension Bridge, stopping for several photos and more Cash family reminiscences.

    We crossed the Avon and into the Create Centre in the old Bonded Tobacco Warehouse for coffee. We had all got ready to set off when Andy discovered his rear tyre was punctured. As it was a back tyre, it took a little time to fix but we finally got into the penultimate leg of the journey.

    It was at this point, that we realized that Peter was a quick change artist. It seemed after every stop, Peter had a different outfit set up. See if you can spot them in the photos!

    We wound our way on a bespoke cycle track around playing fields and some building works and on a sharp turn over a bridge, our leader at that time, Julia, came suddenly face to face to a car that was clearly lost. If Julia had been 30 seconds earlier she might well have been knocked off.

    Dundry Hill!!! The road south out of Bristol and the part we were all dreading, because it’s so steep! Julia and Peter made it to the top but one had a little e-power and the other hadn’t been in the saddle for 4 days! The rest of us were soon walking, but although Carys was hovering nearby, we didn’t need to trouble her for a lift!

    Peter had another change and then it was down (at some speed) through the pretty village of Chew Magna and on to Chew Valley Lake for a late lunch in the cafe there.

    On the final leg, there was just one thing left between us and Wells - the Mendips! The climb we called Chew Magna but the first part 7.5% was Bell horse ridge and Julia became queen of the mountains according to Strava. The rest of us could barely face any more hills, but we got up them and over the top to see a lovely view over the Somerset Levels with Glastonbury Tor rising out of the mist. Then down into Wells, where a reception comprising the support team (wives) awaited and cheered us in.

    The Cathedral Verger invited us inside and it was all rather magical! They were halfway through Choral Evensong and the music was amazing, as was the recently erected art installation above the nave comprising thousands of peace doves made from folded paper - apparently each one contained a message or prayer which they’d been collecting for months!

    When it came to the closing prayers, the Dean gave thanks for our safe journey, prayed for Ian arriving by bus the following day and then for the money for all the people in Africa to be spent wisely! It was a real surprise and a fantastic way to end the ride. When it finished we had a lovely chat with the clergy and three members of the congregation gave donations!

    Carolyn joined us for a celebratory drink in the pub hotel and we then had a lovely meal. Getting up the many narrow stairs to collapse into our bedrooms was an admitted struggle but we all felt proud of our achievement.
    Weiterlesen

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