The Elephant Coast

March - April 2023
This is our journey back to South Africa, leaving Durban and travelling along the Elephant coast all the way to Kruger National Park Read more
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  • 3countries
  • 33days
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  • 15.4kmiles
  • 11.4kmiles
  • 46miles
  • Day 1

    Stop 1

    March 24, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    We were up at the unearthly hour of 3am. Our bags were packed and ready to go by the front door and after a few coffees we were ready to depart at 4am, Ben had got up bright and early at 3:30am ready to deliver us to our first stop.
    For this trip we had decided to do it in stages. Norwich to Amsterdam. Amsterdam to Johannesburg and then Johannesburg to Durban.
    We were at Norwich by 4:40am and we thought we had plenty of time to spare for the 6:15am flight and after paying £10 each for the airport development ( Conning ) fee ( tax ), we promptly joined a very short queue to drop our bags off.
    Unfortunately for us we were behind students and most of them had more than one bag so had to pay for extra baggage which a group leader was paying for at the final tally of bags but he kept wandering off. Then to top it off 3 students had written the wrong name on the flight details and each had to pay £26 each to get a name change and then the flight boarding crew had to phone each boarding desk all the way down the flight line to let them know the changes.
    This took forever and by the time we got done with our bags we had 10 minutes to get through security. Then I got stopped because of the zips in my trousers and then my camera bag got searched and I was warned about carrying electrical tape. It was a nightmare.
    Finally we were on the plane and no sooner had the plane gone up, it was coming back down and into Amsterdam.
    Flight 1 was done.
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  • Day 1

    Stop 2, Johannesburg

    March 24, 2023 in the Netherlands

    At 10:15am we boarded our next flight, and I personally was dreading this one, sometimes we have great times, with good food on the airlines and sometimes we don’t.
    This flight turned out to be the 10.5 hour flight from hell. It went horribly wrong straight away when we realised we had aisle seats instead of window seats. Immediately after take off the rush for the toilets started and almost every single person that walked past managed to bump me. On top of that we had a baby crying, disgusting food this time and they were really stingy with the food aswell.
    Just as I’d really had enough we started descending and finally at just after 10pm South Africa time we landed.
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  • Day 1

    Aerotropolis

    March 24, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    By 10:30pm we had gone through security which was relatively easy, except for the guy infront of us whose passport had expired, and then it was off to collect our bags.
    From the bag collection I picked up a trolley and we then headed to an ATM machine to draw some cash out before phoning our motel for a collection.
    We were told to wait in pick up area 3 which was easy to find and we then spent 20 minutes talking to an African host in the waiting area before being picked up.
    20 minutes later we had arrived at our first sleepover. The Aerotropolis Motel and there was no waiting around as our driver showed us straight to our room.
    It’s a nice room, with a large double bed, toilet, shower and tea and coffee making facilities and it’s clean. We’re only here for one night and the driver has arranged to take us back to the airport at 10am for the next leg of our journey.
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  • Day 2

    First night done & breakfast

    March 25, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We were both awake at 7:30am, listening to heavy rain running off the rooftops. The bed was comfortable and even though the room was hot we had the ceiling fan on and we were both so knackered we probably could have slept standing up.
    Breakfast is included with the room so at 8:30 we both headed into the restaurant area where there were 8 tables and a huge choice of breakfasts. The were cereals and bread laid out with various jams and it was help ourselves to orange juice, tea or coffee. We also had the option of Omlettes or a traditional farmhouse breakfast.
    We both chose the farmhouse breakfast as we didn’t know when our next meal will be, and it was delicious.
    Then it was back to our little room to pack up ready for our driver to take us back to the airport at 9:30. Our next stop is Durban. We were both awake at 7:30am, listening to heavy rain running off the rooftops. The bed was comfortable and even though the room was hot we had the ceiling fan on and we were both so knackered we probably could have slept standing up.
    Breakfast is included with the room so at 8:30 we both headed into the restaurant area where there were 8 tables and a huge choice of breakfasts. The were cereals and bread laid out with various jams and it was help ourselves to orange juice, tea or coffee. We also had the option of Omlettes or a traditional farmhouse breakfast.
    We both chose the farmhouse breakfast as we didn’t know when our next meal will be, and it was delicious.
    Then it was back to our little room to pack up ready for our driver to take us back to the airport at 9:30. Our next stop is Durban.
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  • Day 2

    Back to the Airport

    March 25, 2023 in South Africa

    We arrived at Johannesburg International airport at 9:50am with plenty of time to spare for a 12pm flight. It was a good job, as checking the bags in took nearly 40 minutes and then we had to go through security.
    This time security wasn’t as bad, partly because it is a domestic flight and partly because we had learnt from last time and emptied anything that could be deemed dangerous into our hold luggage.
    Our plan was to buy a data sim at the airport but there was nowhere obvious on the way in and once we were the other side of security all the shops had run out. We’ll have to be extra vigilant in Durban and try and find somewhere.
    With no SIM card and nothing to do except eat the Biltong I had purchased we headed for the departure lounge ready to board at 11:30am and fly out at midday.
    This is getting real now…….. next stop Durban and to meet Pete. We arrived at Johannesburg International airport at 9:50am with plenty of time to spare for a 12pm flight. It was a good job, as checking the bags in took nearly 40 minutes and then we had to go through security.
    This time security wasn’t as bad, partly because it is a domestic flight and partly because we had learnt from last time and emptied anything that could be deemed dangerous into our hold luggage.
    Our plan was to buy a data sim at the airport but there was nowhere obvious on the way in and once we were the other side of security all the shops had run out. We’ll have to be extra vigilant in Durban and try and find somewhere.
    With no SIM card and nothing to do except eat the Biltong I had purchased we headed for the departure lounge ready to board at 11:30am and fly out at midday.
    This is getting real now…….. next stop Durban and to meet Pete.
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  • Day 2

    Pete & St Lucia

    March 25, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Leaving at 12:10pm, We touched down 50 minutes later in Durban and this time there was no security checks and we sailed straight through the airport, collected our bags from the carousel and as soon as we left the baggage area Pieter was there to greet us.
    It felt like we had never left Africa and we picked up exactly where we left off, laughing and joking all the way to the car park where Karin the car was waiting for us. It was great to see her again aswell and this time I was riding shotgun.
    It cost him 850,000 rand to repair the damage on Karin after our last trip and he told us that he was selling her to get 2 more land rovers to match the 3 non starting land rovers he already has, and she should have gone last week but the guy who was dropping her off to him in St Lucia had, had an accident and smashed the front up and he’s only just got it back from the insurance.
    It will be a shame when he does get rid off her, we love Karin as much as Pete, but Pete doesn’t get attached to vehicles like us.
    From the airport is was a 2 hour drive to St Lucia, Pete took us on a water safari and even though it was really windy we did get to see lots of hippos, Zebra, bee eaters, cormorants and a fish eagle. It also gave us a chance to get our bearings, and we had a great time.
    Then Pete took us to our lodgings for the night which is a cosy lodge with a double and single room. It has a large lounge and open plan kitchen and a beautiful bathroom. This is much more fancy than what we’re used to but because it’s the off season Pete said it’s only slightly more expensive than a campsite.
    We dumped our stuff in the rooms and then went straight back out for dinner at a restaurant Pete uses regularly on his trips. Pete had Sushi, I had a special burger with local ingredients including a super hot sauce and Ellie had a pizza with spicy chicken and cheese and avocado on top. All of it was superb.
    Then it was back to our hotel where we gave Pete the bottle of whiskey we had brought him and he was like a kid at Christmas which really pleased us, and even though it was just 8pm we were all exhausted from a long day and with nothing much else to do we called it a night. Our first proper day had been a success.
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  • Day 3

    Imfolozi & Hlunluwe Game Reserve

    March 26, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    From the marketplace we headed further north, but before we got to Petes place he wanted to take us on a game drive and show us 2 special parks.
    The Imfolozi & Hlunluwe conservation parks are home to the big 5, and are set out as tourist areas but there are no tourists because they don’t do any advertising. The main reason for these parks existence is to conserve and repopulate other areas including world wide. This is also where they train the rangers in capturing and releasing all species, and it’s where the capture and release programs where invented. There is even a museum with photos dating back to the 1930’s of various techniques being used, it was a fascinating place.
    Driving through the parks we were super lucky spotting Impala, Zebra, Water Buffalo, elephants, rhino, and even baboons. This was a great start to trip.
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  • Day 3

    Winterdodgers Backpackers (Petes Place)

    March 26, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Around 2pm we left the game drive and headed for the a spar supermarket to do the grocery shopping for the next few days. Considering it was a Sunday it was super busy but except for decent meat we got everything that we needed. We’re going to have to go back out to a butchers to get meat at a later date.
    Then it was back in the car for another 90 minutes until we got into the town of Sodwana Bay and took a sharp left when the tarmac ended and we drove for 15km on sand tracks across the biggest vegetation sand dunes in the world. It was quite a hairy ride as we slid around the deep ruts with Karen the car beeping at us all the way warning us of no traction, then we dropped down the other side and the vegetation got much thicker just before we drove through a river.
    Then it was sand tracks again for another 5km and we found a bottle shop in the middle of nowhere and Pete brought some beers before we finally ended up where we wanted to be.
    Petes home.
    It was an amazing site and in true Pieter fashion we were greeted by 3 land rovers and the old safari land cruiser he had just bought to do up last year. Once out of the car he showed us around and it’s certainly unique and very rustic but it’s a huge place and suits Petes personality down to the ground.
    There is a large open plan living area where guests can congregate and an open plan kitchen. Along the back wall are another four rooms, the first is Petes bedroom, then a bathroom then what will be another guest room but is currently storage and at the end another guest room with 2 single beds. Pete also now has a cat called Milly who he rescued from Kubu Island out in the salt pans late last year. He picked it up in a right state as a kitten with blood all over it’s face and scars on it’s back and he did say, had he been on his own he probably would have put the cat out of it’s misery but the group of people he was with at the time didn’t want to so the cat ended up getting in the car and doing 3 weeks of Safaris across 3 countries until finally ending up back at Petes home which is where he lives and looks very happy.
    The grounds and garden are flourishing with food like bananas and avocado, lemongrass and lavender. Aswell as chickens each laying 2 eggs a day.
    There are also 2 guest houses outside and Simon who delivered Karin the car from Johannesburg is staying in one and we have the other. It’s a super nice place and a really chilled atmosphere. When we turned up there were another 2 guests there but we think they were bringing Simon alcohol as he’s quite the drunk but they did seem like nice people and said they would be back tomorrow.
    After getting settled and having some well needed drinks and fresh pineapple the 4 of us took a hike out across the sand dunes and I found a chameleon which of course Ellie wanted to adopt. Then it was back to the house just before it got dark and we all watched the Geckos chasing the moths up and down the walls while Pete cooked us a lovely spaghetti bolognaise. Then at 8pm we all headed off to our beds for the night.
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  • Day 3

    Breakfast and Markets

    March 26, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    Ellie and I didn’t sleep well atall, the room didn’t get much below 25°c all night, we were absolutely sweltering and I was glad to get up at 6am to go and do a morning workout and just as I stepped outside to start Pete came out.
    He asked if we slept ok and I answered honestly and said no it was roasting and he said didn’t your room have air conditioning like mine?
    Obviously not.
    Once we were all dressed we jumped in the car with our luggage and went down the road for coffees and breakfast at Wimpy which took about an hour, then we headed off again aiming for Peiters house but we stopped at a market first to get fresh fruit.
    It was an amazing market where we picked up a big bag of avocados for £1 and a sack of pineapple for £1. Ellie and I went and looked around the arts and crafts where there were loads of hand carved wooden ornaments. Some of the carvings are unbelievably intricate.
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  • Day 4

    Mabibi beach

    March 27, 2023 in South Africa

    The heat overnight was unbelievable. So much so that at midnight I got up and wandered over to our shower area naked and took a cold shower. Then I sat on one of the camping chairs out the front of our little lodge and dried off in the blustery wind.
    I then decided to wedge Ellies backpack in the doorway to keep the door open and have a breeze blow in but the backpack would hopefully stop frogs or snakes getting in.
    With not much sleep I had set the alarm to go off at 6am so we could head to Mabibi beach for low water at 7:30am and snorkel in the rock pools but when we got up the rains had finally come and the temperature was now a chilly 19°c.
    After coffees and breakfast we decided “what the hell”, and drove to Mabibi beach anyway in the hope that the rain would stop.
    The drive there was completely off-road on a sandy track and we were slipping and sliding all the way with Karin the car beeping at us again, it was great fun but we decided there and then never to buy a used car from Pete.
    We pulled up into the car park area at Mabibi camp about 30 minutes later and then it was a 1/4 mile walk down a sandy track and then 50 wooden steps on a very steep gradient until we finally hit the beach.
    The beach was beautiful with lovely golden sand with a back drop of huge green sand dunes it looked very much like the Thai beaches you see in the brochures. The sea here never gets below 24°c and today it was warm but also rough because of the wind and huge rollers were breaking on the beach so we only dipped our feet.
    The rain also didn’t stop so we gave it up as a bad idea and headed back to the lodge for coffees.
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