The Elephant Coast

We pushed on further in Karin and it was really slow going and by now it was 12pm. Pete started checking a really crappy map of the area to get to a point at the end of the coastline where we had the sea in one side and the lake on the other. In the end I opened up google maps which was much more accurate and we stayed on the wider sand roads heading for what we thought was Thonga Bay.
After 20 minutes we could see the lake to our left as we drive up higher sand dunes and then lost it again as we dropped back down and then we picked up signs for little paradise.
We didn’t know what that was, but it was in the right direction so we followed the signs and came out into another encampment.
It was a big area with 8 proper safari tents and then 6 round wooden small houses with a large covered area with tables and chairs right in the middle.
There was a big Land Rover defender in the parking area next to the toilet and shower area and we pulled in next to that to do a U turn. I was looking across the camp and I saw a man and he started waving at us and then Pete said “ Hang on, I think I know him”. What a the chances of that?
We jumped out and the man came over and Pieter did indeed know him. Trevor introduced himself to us and told us all about the camp and that it was mainly used as corporate retreats or yoga retreats and then showed us around. It was so random.
We stayed for about 30 minutes while he showed us everything from the tents to the the houses to the toilets and showers. You could tell he was super proud of what he had built, and before we left him and Pete exchanged numbers and then we went back on ourselves in Karin.
We had to double back on ourselves for about 10km driving around the side of the lake and then turning right on more of a main road that was now made of bricks and soil rather than sand until finally we hit tarmac again just as we popped out on the edges of Kosi Bay.
It was now 2:30pm and we stopped at the superspar to get a bite to eat and then we headed through and out of town to Kosi Bay.
Again we passed through a manned barrier and then we drove on a newly laid concrete road that ran through sand dunes getting higher and higher until at the top there is a small parking area off to one side where we stopped to look at the view.
Kosi Bay is a unique area because it is the only place in the world that uses funnel fishing. There were hundreds of sticks in the ground forming hundreds of semi circular patterns about 30 meters long each, and at the centre of each semi circle was a hand made stick basket to funnel the fish into. The Zulus will push there way out on little canoes and then spear the fish caught in the traps. It was an incredible sight and a very unique landscape. We ate our late lunch while taking it all in.
Then we jumped back in Karin and drove down the concrete road into the Bay Area until the road ran out and we were back on sand. The lake was right next us and as it was high water we had to pass through where large areas of flooded road. At the last flooded area we came to a pick up truck that was stuck in the water right up to it’s back door. His wheels had fallen into a hole and he was stuck fast.
To our amazement Pieter just drove passed them through the deep section and the water covered the bonnet and then we came out. Pete turned the Karin around, unhooked the winch and attached it to the car that was stuck and then pulled him out. Well done Karin.
We then drove to a tiny little parking area that had 2 guys telling us where to park before finally heading along the path to Kosi Bay itself.
It was a beautiful area under trees so it was nice and shady and the water was so shallow you could walk out for hundreds and hundreds of meters and still only be up to your waist. It would have been a great snorkelling area.
This was to be our final destination and it had taken 6 1/2 hours to get here and we were all tired.
It was 60km to get back home which took about 90 minutes and at 5:45pm we arrived back at our lodge.
We had teas and coffees straight away and then sat and talked until 7pm and then a storm started blowing in so we went upto the new roof terrace and sat on the roof to watch it. It was an incredible light show because the lightning just didn’t stop.
At 8pm we went back down to the main house and I said I didn’t really need dinner so Pete just made us some picky bits and then the storm broke proper.
The rain came down sideways, sheeting across the front of the house. The roof leaked like a sieve with water coming in everywhere and milly the cat decided the safest and driest place was under the table.
Again the lightning was unreal with constant flashes forking across the sky and the thunder cracking overhead making the whole house shake. It was a serious display of nature.
At 9pm I decided enough was enough and Ellie and I just made a run for it to get to our room, once there we climbed into bed and watched the storm move across the wetlands and then went to sleep.Read more