Pakistán
Northern Areas

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    • Día 482

      Karakorum Highway / Chilas

      31 de octubre de 2023, Pakistán ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      Nach einem kurzen Ausflug ins Astore Tal habe ich heute Vormittag beschlossen nach Islamabad zurückzukehren. Es wird mir zu lang, wenn ich noch zum Deosainationalpark und weiter nach Skardu fahre. Falls es mit meinem Visum für Indien nicht klappt, ist der zweite Versuch wieder zeitintensiv und ich habe „nur“ ein 60 Tage Visum für Pakistan.
      Es ist ein bisschen schade, weil es hier im Norden von Pakistan wirklich sehr schön ist. Aber es ist auch eine Sackgasse und ich muss alles wieder zurückfahren.
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    • Día 479

      Babusar Top 4177 m

      28 de octubre de 2023, Pakistán

      Heute das Highlight. Anscheinend macht die Bergstraße doch schon 6:00 Uhr auf. Einige Autos standen Schlange. Als es hell wurde, durften sie fahren. Ich habe Frühstück gemacht und bin dann gestartet. Die freundlichen Polizisten hatten sich noch mal hingelegt.
      Anfangs ging es leicht, dann immer schwerer. Den steilen Schlussanstieg dann nur noch schiebend. Oben angekommen herrschte irgendwie eine Art Volksfeststimmung. Ich habe etwas gegessen und mich dann für das „Gipfelfoto“ angestellt.
      Jetzt folgt die nur 42 km lange Abfahrt zum Karakorum Highway, die eine Höhendistanz von über 3100 m überwindet. Die schattenseitige Abfahrt war dann extrem kalt. Unterwegs fragte ich zwei Polizisten nach einer Campingmöglichkeit. Mir wurde gesagt, ich soll bis Chilas weiterfahren und dort in ein Hotel gehen. Aber das war viel zu weit, weil es schon kurz vor Sonnenuntergang war. Zwei Polizeistationen weiter, auf etwa 3000 m, hat man mir dann einen Platz in einem Raum angeboten, wo zwei Motorräder standen. Angeblich ist die Gegend hier nicht sicher.
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    • Día 481

      Nanga Parbat View Point

      30 de octubre de 2023, Pakistán ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Heute am Vormittag bin ich zur Raikot Brücke gefahren. Dort ist die Auffahrt zur berühmten Märchenwiese. Mit dem Fahrrad mache ich es definitiv nicht. Es sind 20 km und 2000 Höhenmeter auf Geröllpiste. Mit dem Geländewagen kostet es 65 €. Ich bin dann weitergefahren zum Abzweig ins Astoretal und habe mir oberhalb am Nanga Parbat Viewpoint ein Zimmer in einem kleinen Hotel genommen.Leer más

    • Día 480

      Karakorum Highway / Bunar

      29 de octubre de 2023, Pakistán ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Es war gestern Abend noch ein bisschen nervig. Die Polizisten haben sicher mindestens fünf mal angeklopft und wollten irgendetwas: Passkontrolle, fragen ob ich genügend Komfort habe, fragen ob ich Tee möchte, nur mal schauen… usw.
      Heute Morgen musste ich ein bisschen warten, bis ich starten konnte. Ich wusste dann bald warum: Es gab eine Polizeieskorte und wir mussten auf das Auto warten. Es war gestern eine gute Entscheidung, bei der Polizei zu fragen, wo ich schlafen kann. Das Tal war anfangs sehr steil und dicht besiedelt. Die Menschen hier im Tal gehören anscheinend einer anderen Ethnie bzw. einer Minderheit an. Alles wirkt auch deutlich ärmlicher. Nach wenigen Kilometern war das Polizeiauto weg. Es ging 20 km bergab bis ich auf dem Karakorum Highway angekommen bin. Dort gab es eine Polizeistation und ich wurde zum Interview gebeten. Die Gegend ist angeblich sicher. Aber ich sollte kein Camping machen, weil es viele Hunde gibt, die über mich herfallen könnten.
      Ich habe meine Route angegeben: Via Shausar Lake und Deosai Nationalpark nach Skardu und dann zurück nach Islamabad über den Karakorum Highway.
      Die Polizisten sagten mir, dass ich zum See hoch fahren kann. Allerdings liegen noch einige Polizeicheckpoints auf dem Weg und es könnte sein, dass sie mich wegen der Kälte nicht hoch lassen. Oder aus irgendeinem anderen Grund, die Polizei ist ja diesbezüglich ziemlich erfinderisch.
      Habe wieder ein schönes, sauberes Zimmer für umgerechnet sieben Euro.
      Gerade das Abendessen und schon wieder kommt die Polizei. Einer spricht ganz gut Englisch. Der andere hat eine Kalaschnikow. Sie wollen wissen woher ich komme und wohin ich fahren möchte. Ich habe es heute
      mindestens schon fünf mal der Polizei erklärt.
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    • Día 236

      moses peak #2

      8 de mayo, Pakistán ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      what can i say, we did a lot of walking, mostly through big boulder fields. as always, at about 3.5k metres asl, i started noticing the thinner air more and more. unlike the first day, i felt pretty good, but it might've just been the fact that i took some meds in the morning. elias was struggling quite a bit, so i gave him my pole, which he somehow managed to bend to shit. in the afternoon, we reached the snow border at around 4300 meters and set up camp there. i went a bit further into the snow trying to find a small shepherds hut that should've been there as the end point of that day's hike, but didn't see anything. had an amazing sunset and some not so amazing pasta.

      just as we settled into our tents, nika told us he was "feeling cold from the inside of his bones", which sounded an awful lot like hypothermia. he had underestimated the trek and hadn't brought gloves or a proper sleeping bag. it was too late to go back down, so all we could do was make him some hot tea and send matthieu into his tent to give him some extra warmth. it was obvious that we needed to reajust plans in the morning.
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    • Día 232

      along the indus #4

      4 de mayo, Pakistán ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      just as we wanted to head off and start our ride, we were invited for a cup of chai by some dude who claimed to be an ex-spy. hm.

      this time, we found a new system of cycling. me and matthieu would go in front and wait for elias, who would just go his speed. while he was catching up, we always used our spare time to have a chat with some checkpoint guards or playing a game of volleyball with the locals. this way, the cycling was much more rewarding and we got over 70 kilometres done, finally reaching skardu after four days on the road.

      on the way there, we were overtaken by nika from georgia, who gave us some bananas out of his car window. we made a plan to meet him for dinner in skardu, and it turned out that he was staying at a couchsurfing host's place, who also invited us over to stay at his place. it didn't have electricity most of the time and no running water, but we were super happy to have found a place to stay so easily.
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    • Día 233–235

      skadu #1

      5 de mayo, Pakistán ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      i spent pretty much the whole day lying in the communal sleeping room, planning my next moves. i had heard from stepan (the chap i was in prison with), who had been to the area just two weeks before, that he had trekked a 5000m peak and i was hooked. everybody decided to join, including jasper from the netherlands, who had also joined the couchsurfing party.

      because basically none of the guys had any mountaineering/snow gear, we headed to a second hand market where they sell every kind of mountaineering gear from socks to used oxygen tanks. i bought some waterproof shoes and the others got themselves gloves, hiking poles, and so on.

      skardu, by the way, was super beautiful and also very chill and liberal compared to the rest of pakistan. it also has a little airport, where all the mountaineers going to the gasherbrums, broad peak and k2 arrive.
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    • Día 234–235

      barah valley

      6 de mayo, Pakistán ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      after another trip to the outdoor market, our makeshift international mountaineering team was ready to go. we hitchhiked some weird pickup thing to the bus station, where we were joined by tom from the uk, a friend of jasper. we arrived just in time to catch a minibus going to khaplu, which is pretty much the last stop before k2, which, if we were lucky, we'd see from the top of moses peak. somehow, 18 people were crammed into this little van. we were stopped one or two times by the tourist police, but other than that, the views made up for the discomfort.

      we arrived at the trailhead in barah valley and walked a couple of kilometres to a restaurant, where we had some food (grave mistake, as it later turns out) and were even offered to stay for the night for like 3€. we couldn't refuse, of course. somehow, we managed to fit 6 people into a 15m² space. we had some breakfast in the morning, split up our food supplies evenly and got to hiking.
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    • Día 235

      moses peak #1

      7 de mayo, Pakistán ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      the trail up to moses peak literally started in someones backyard. the first two kilometres or so consisted of walking through tiny mazelike alleys running in between and under old wooden village houses. super cool. then, the path started to incline and we spent some time walking through some farmland terraces with waterfalls and plenty of animals and shepherds around.

      that's when the soles of my newly bought shoes just straight up fell off. pakistani quality, there's nothing worse in the world. duct tape didn't help much, so two of the guys went back down to the village and came back with a tube of glue. that didn't really help either, but luckily i had brought my snow cleats. i strapped them on and they actually held the soles in place for the rest of the hike.

      after about two hours of walking, i noticed i was really unwell. not just feeling weak like usually with food poisoning, but now also lightheaded and with hard stomach cramps. i got myself together after a couple of minutes, popped a painkiller and a fever pill and managed to make it to the first camp. decided that if i wasn't feeling better the next day, i was going to have to go down.

      i had really strong fever that night, but actually didn't feel that bad in the morning, so on we go.
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    • Día 229

      along the indus #1

      1 de mayo, Pakistán ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      on the first of march, we packed our bikes and finally hit the road. ahead of us were about 200 kilometres of mountain roads to skardu. we were all super exited to start the trip and in a super good mood. we did have to overcome one or the other problem, though. matthieu had to fix a puncture in his back tire, while elias struggled with keeping his backpack from falling off the luggage rack. also, of course, everyone single one of us had diarrhea, but it's become the new normal at this point.

      halfway through, we were stopped by the tourist police, who told us that there had been a huge rock fall and that the road to skardu was blocked. we just banked on the hope that they'll have fixed it by the time we'd eventually get there. also, we were invited for a chai by some policemen at a checkpoint and even took some pictures with them and their guns (once again, i hid them away on a cloud for now).

      the scenery was stunningly amazing the whole way through, there wasn't much traffic and we had great weather. also, we didn't realize it at first, but all of a sudden, we found ourselves standing in front of nanga parbat, the killer mountain. totally amazing, that was the cherry on top. towards the end of the day, we managed to find an abandoned shepherd's tent nestled into a boulder field and decided to squat it for the night.
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    También podrías conocer este lugar por los siguientes nombres:

    Northern Areas, Gilgit-Baltistan, Nordområdene, Nordområda

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