Paquistão
Northern Areas

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    • Dia 482

      Karakorum Highway / Chilas

      31 de outubro de 2023, Paquistão ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      Nach einem kurzen Ausflug ins Astore Tal habe ich heute Vormittag beschlossen nach Islamabad zurückzukehren. Es wird mir zu lang, wenn ich noch zum Deosainationalpark und weiter nach Skardu fahre. Falls es mit meinem Visum für Indien nicht klappt, ist der zweite Versuch wieder zeitintensiv und ich habe „nur“ ein 60 Tage Visum für Pakistan.
      Es ist ein bisschen schade, weil es hier im Norden von Pakistan wirklich sehr schön ist. Aber es ist auch eine Sackgasse und ich muss alles wieder zurückfahren.
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    • Dia 479

      Babusar Top 4177 m

      28 de outubro de 2023, Paquistão

      Heute das Highlight. Anscheinend macht die Bergstraße doch schon 6:00 Uhr auf. Einige Autos standen Schlange. Als es hell wurde, durften sie fahren. Ich habe Frühstück gemacht und bin dann gestartet. Die freundlichen Polizisten hatten sich noch mal hingelegt.
      Anfangs ging es leicht, dann immer schwerer. Den steilen Schlussanstieg dann nur noch schiebend. Oben angekommen herrschte irgendwie eine Art Volksfeststimmung. Ich habe etwas gegessen und mich dann für das „Gipfelfoto“ angestellt.
      Jetzt folgt die nur 42 km lange Abfahrt zum Karakorum Highway, die eine Höhendistanz von über 3100 m überwindet. Die schattenseitige Abfahrt war dann extrem kalt. Unterwegs fragte ich zwei Polizisten nach einer Campingmöglichkeit. Mir wurde gesagt, ich soll bis Chilas weiterfahren und dort in ein Hotel gehen. Aber das war viel zu weit, weil es schon kurz vor Sonnenuntergang war. Zwei Polizeistationen weiter, auf etwa 3000 m, hat man mir dann einen Platz in einem Raum angeboten, wo zwei Motorräder standen. Angeblich ist die Gegend hier nicht sicher.
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    • Dia 480

      Karakorum Highway / Bunar

      29 de outubro de 2023, Paquistão ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Es war gestern Abend noch ein bisschen nervig. Die Polizisten haben sicher mindestens fünf mal angeklopft und wollten irgendetwas: Passkontrolle, fragen ob ich genügend Komfort habe, fragen ob ich Tee möchte, nur mal schauen… usw.
      Heute Morgen musste ich ein bisschen warten, bis ich starten konnte. Ich wusste dann bald warum: Es gab eine Polizeieskorte und wir mussten auf das Auto warten. Es war gestern eine gute Entscheidung, bei der Polizei zu fragen, wo ich schlafen kann. Das Tal war anfangs sehr steil und dicht besiedelt. Die Menschen hier im Tal gehören anscheinend einer anderen Ethnie bzw. einer Minderheit an. Alles wirkt auch deutlich ärmlicher. Nach wenigen Kilometern war das Polizeiauto weg. Es ging 20 km bergab bis ich auf dem Karakorum Highway angekommen bin. Dort gab es eine Polizeistation und ich wurde zum Interview gebeten. Die Gegend ist angeblich sicher. Aber ich sollte kein Camping machen, weil es viele Hunde gibt, die über mich herfallen könnten.
      Ich habe meine Route angegeben: Via Shausar Lake und Deosai Nationalpark nach Skardu und dann zurück nach Islamabad über den Karakorum Highway.
      Die Polizisten sagten mir, dass ich zum See hoch fahren kann. Allerdings liegen noch einige Polizeicheckpoints auf dem Weg und es könnte sein, dass sie mich wegen der Kälte nicht hoch lassen. Oder aus irgendeinem anderen Grund, die Polizei ist ja diesbezüglich ziemlich erfinderisch.
      Habe wieder ein schönes, sauberes Zimmer für umgerechnet sieben Euro.
      Gerade das Abendessen und schon wieder kommt die Polizei. Einer spricht ganz gut Englisch. Der andere hat eine Kalaschnikow. Sie wollen wissen woher ich komme und wohin ich fahren möchte. Ich habe es heute
      mindestens schon fünf mal der Polizei erklärt.
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    • Dia 481

      Nanga Parbat View Point

      30 de outubro de 2023, Paquistão ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Heute am Vormittag bin ich zur Raikot Brücke gefahren. Dort ist die Auffahrt zur berühmten Märchenwiese. Mit dem Fahrrad mache ich es definitiv nicht. Es sind 20 km und 2000 Höhenmeter auf Geröllpiste. Mit dem Geländewagen kostet es 65 €. Ich bin dann weitergefahren zum Abzweig ins Astoretal und habe mir oberhalb am Nanga Parbat Viewpoint ein Zimmer in einem kleinen Hotel genommen.Leia mais

    • Dia 233–235

      skadu #1

      5 de maio, Paquistão ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      i spent pretty much the whole day lying in the communal sleeping room, planning my next moves. i had heard from stepan (the chap i was in prison with), who had been to the area just two weeks before, that he had trekked a 5000m peak and i was hooked. everybody decided to join, including jasper from the netherlands, who had also joined the couchsurfing party.

      because basically none of the guys had any mountaineering/snow gear, we headed to a second hand market where they sell every kind of mountaineering gear from socks to used oxygen tanks. i bought some waterproof shoes and the others got themselves gloves, hiking poles, and so on.

      skardu, by the way, was super beautiful and also very chill and liberal compared to the rest of pakistan. it also has a little airport, where all the mountaineers going to the gasherbrums, broad peak and k2 arrive.
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    • Dia 232

      along the indus #4

      4 de maio, Paquistão ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      just as we wanted to head off and start our ride, we were invited for a cup of chai by some dude who claimed to be an ex-spy. hm.

      this time, we found a new system of cycling. me and matthieu would go in front and wait for elias, who would just go his speed. while he was catching up, we always used our spare time to have a chat with some checkpoint guards or playing a game of volleyball with the locals. this way, the cycling was much more rewarding and we got over 70 kilometres done, finally reaching skardu after four days on the road.

      on the way there, we were overtaken by nika from georgia, who gave us some bananas out of his car window. we made a plan to meet him for dinner in skardu, and it turned out that he was staying at a couchsurfing host's place, who also invited us over to stay at his place. it didn't have electricity most of the time and no running water, but we were super happy to have found a place to stay so easily.
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    • Dia 231

      along the indus #3

      3 de maio, Paquistão ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

      after waking up and having breakfast with some of the locals, we went to go see our new friends gem mine (unfortunately, it was friday, the only day where they don't use dynamite in the mines) and immediately began chiselling away at the walls. didn't find anything, sadly.
      but it was super funny because the guy basically only spoke in catchphrases that he kept saying over and over. here's a couple of our favourites that were immediately adopted into our vocabularies:

      "gemstone available"
      "blast here, blast here"
      "tourmaline here"

      after that great start, it only got worse. i was struggling a lot, especially around noon, where i really had to keep myself from fainting or throwing up. i chugged some yeast solition, which brought me back to life so far as to at least make it to our target village for the day. some truck drivers helpes us get up a steep climbing section by letting us hold on to their trucks and we even played volleyball (which seems to be the national sport of gilgit-baltistan) with some locals. in the evening, we found a hotel (with internet access!!), but they tried to scam us and we went for a small homestay instead.

      (by the way, even if i don't mention it in every entry about the bike tour, the views were great, of course)
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    • Dia 230

      along the indus #2

      2 de maio, Paquistão ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      woke up to a nice view and got going. the day before, we had only covered like 40 kilometres, so we had to put a bit more effort in if we wanted to make it to skardu anytime soon. 40 really doesn't sound like much, but in that sun, on that terrain, with that weight, with no shorts allowed because of islamic law, and completely out of shape when it comes to cycling, it's a proper ordeal.

      also, the nourishment situation wasn't looking too bright. between gilgit and skardu are only a couple of villages scattered along the valley, and pretty much all they sell there is chips and softdrinks. i had oats with fanta for breakfast and oats with pepsi for lunch. matthieu taught us, you gotta keep that blood sugar going.

      in the first village we came across, i managed to get a wooden plank from some locals and we strapped it onto elias' bike to fix his luggage-falling-off-problem. the sun kicked our asses, but we eventually made it to a village, where we were invited to stay at a guy's guest house. turns out he also owns a lot of gem mines in the area and is a hobby geologist. he was very eager to show us his rock collection. great guy.
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    • Dia 229

      along the indus #1

      1 de maio, Paquistão ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

      on the first of march, we packed our bikes and finally hit the road. ahead of us were about 200 kilometres of mountain roads to skardu. we were all super exited to start the trip and in a super good mood. we did have to overcome one or the other problem, though. matthieu had to fix a puncture in his back tire, while elias struggled with keeping his backpack from falling off the luggage rack. also, of course, everyone single one of us had diarrhea, but it's become the new normal at this point.

      halfway through, we were stopped by the tourist police, who told us that there had been a huge rock fall and that the road to skardu was blocked. we just banked on the hope that they'll have fixed it by the time we'd eventually get there. also, we were invited for a chai by some policemen at a checkpoint and even took some pictures with them and their guns (once again, i hid them away on a cloud for now).

      the scenery was stunningly amazing the whole way through, there wasn't much traffic and we had great weather. also, we didn't realize it at first, but all of a sudden, we found ourselves standing in front of nanga parbat, the killer mountain. totally amazing, that was the cherry on top. towards the end of the day, we managed to find an abandoned shepherd's tent nestled into a boulder field and decided to squat it for the night.
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    • Dia 228–229

      gilgit #1

      30 de abril, Paquistão ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      we arrived in gilgit with no idea where to go, but were quickly able to find a cheap hotel. we rested in the room for the rest of the day. elias got cocky at one point and made a bet that he could drink 1.5 litres of water in one go. he lost, but see for yourself.Leia mais

    Você também pode conhecer este local seguindo os nomes:

    Northern Areas, Gilgit-Baltistan, Nordområdene, Nordområda

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