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BaltiNavia by Bike
  • Sarah and Peter
Jun 2016 – Jul 2017

BaltiNavia by Bike

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Still no Elks!

    27 Jun 2017, Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Summer in Sweden = waking up in the night with ice cold feet (despite socks, sleeping bag liner AND a 3-4 season sleeping bag!) followed by waking up at 8am cooking slowly in a greenhouse-tent 🙊

    After 3 days of constant rain showers it was a huge surprise to open the tent door to a blue cloudless sky. Eating breakfast of fruit, muesli and turkish yogurt sat outside on our hill camp, looking over to the treetops was a small piece of heaven this morning. Just in case anyone was getting too jealous reading the first bit, I must have been bitten on the toes and feet 10 x by large ants whilst doing "morning paperwork" . Certainly not a paradise experience! Peter didn't get bitten once.

    To save us the daily discussion about how terrible biting ants are, they are now named: SCHARMEISEN or SHANTS, owing to the affectionate adjective we use in conjuction with their existance.

    Today's route reminded me of my childhood experiences at the funfair /seaside when riding the giant slides or helter-skelter. You climb up (what feels like) 1000s of stairs and then you enjoy the ride down, beofre having to repeat repeat repeat. Lots of work for a good blast of fun. The route was full of little bumpy hills and sweet, winding descents past more of the stereotypical Swedish scenery, pine forest, quaint farms, red-brown wooden houses and volvos!

    As we had wild camped for 2 nights, a shower and some clothes washing (as well as electronics charging) were needed so we decided to cycle to a campsite. The first on the map was a red-herring. Private campsite for long-term caravans only. The next, 8km away, tuned out to be the same. After asking one of the residents if there was somewhere we could stay we were told there was a guest price and we could camp on the field next to the lake. Happy days! Luckily I'd kept 200 krona in cash to be able to pay, this place certainly wouldn't have done cards!

    The facilities are simple but every detail has been thought of with a single shower and an open air kitchen. A lady offered us some nice seats (with cushions!!!) to eat our meal from when we went to the communal table to eat. The small gestures from strangers make such a nice impression.

    (Ps. Yesterday's photos have been added)

    Today we have - Peter and his Marabou chocolate addiction. Its the Swedish equivalent of Ritter sport only on bigger packs.
    The hill we had to take our bikes up for oir awesome wild camp.
    A windmill
    A mini house at the side of the big road, bo idea why it was there because only cyclists would be slow enough to really see it, and there was no footpath for pedestrians.
    A zebra.
    Swedish cycling view!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Frühstück am See

    28 Jun 2017, Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Auf unserem Campingplatz waren wir neben unsern einheimschen Nachbarn in Wohnwagen die einzigen mit Zelt. Entsprechend ruhig war die Nacht. Die Sonne trieb uns früh aus dem Bett. Der Campingplatz hatte Zugang zum See. So hatten wir ein tolles Frühstück auf dem Steg. Für ein Bad war jedoch zu kalt. Ein paar Gespräche brachten zu Tage, dass im Moment die beste Jahreszeit in Schweden ist, jedoch seit 2 Wochen starker Wind weht.

    Die heutige Route führte ausschließlich über Nebenstraßen. Es gab wieder viel Abwechslung in der Landschaft und super Wetter, Sonnenschein und kein Wind. Zur Mittagszeit kamen wir durch einen Ort, wo uns auch gleich eine Gaststätte mit der Aufschrift 'Pizza' ins Auge fiel. Da das Preisniveau hier höher ist, wagte ich erst einen kurzen Blick in die Karte, die nur am Tresen verfügbar war. 75 Kronen (ca. 7,50 €) für eine vegetarische Pizza, das war ok. Zur Überraschung war das inklusive eines Salates vom Buffet, eines Kaltgetränks und eines Kaffes bzw. Tees danach. Wow! Und alles war auch noch sehr lecker.

    Wir sind heute wieder in einem Waldstück zur Ruhe gekommen. Morgen soll es nochmal schönes Wetter geben, wir hoffen darauf.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Night-time elk visit?!

    29 Jun 2017, Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Ok, so last night's blog missed out a little of the day's events because we didn't know if this morning was going to mean a trip to the Doctor's. Eeek... and people worry etc. But we're all fine, so its safe to read on!

    Yesterday's ride ended with a Sarah-shaped impression on the stoney road. It had all the ingredients of a classic slide; descent, corner, adverse camber, loose stones, perhaps a little too much speed, combined with a heavy bike and a reflex use of the brakes = ouch.

    Somehow my hands took the full weight of the fall and the air was a little blue with colourful words. The right hand swelled up pretty quickly and the left one had a small chunk of skin missing. Thankfully nothing serious, but it still hurt like crazy and I couldn't ride anymore. Changing gear, using the brakes... even pushing wasn't really great so we set up camp in the forest adjacent to the track. It was a very convenient find, classic hilltop location looking very "jurassic park" with its ferns and pine trees. No ant infestations but instead swarms of mini biting evening flies!

    Peter had the fun task of snipping off the loose bits of skin, cleaning my feet (my shoes were somehow full of stones ?) applying plasters and eating chocolate. What a hero. 🙊

    We made plan A, B, C and D for the morning and went to sleep praying that my right hand was only bruised and that the swelling would go down overnight. Thankfully it did! It was just a nice shade of blue and a little bit fat, but at least I could grip things and get back on the bike with the help of some plaster /bandages to take the pressure of the handlebars of the palms.

    In the early hours of the morning we heard what sounded like a deep cough a few times, then the sound of heavy hooves which got nearer and then faded away again. We guess this may have been an elk?! It was certainly too heavy for a wild boar and I don't think deer make such sounds.... who knows! I don't want to leave Sweden until we've seen an elk!

    We're now in Ankersund and "battening down the hatches" as they would say at sea, the weather report for the next 3 days looks vile. Wind. Rain. Rainwind. Due to Sweden 's sparse population density, supermarkets only tend to pop up on route around 1x per day, shelter is also very hard to find if it rains. As such, we've decided to make it easier for ourselves by finding a reasonably-priced campsite as a base. This should let us bypass the bad weather in a little more comfort and should allow my hands to heal a little before carrying on to Gothenburg.

    We will certainly miss the beauty and peace of the forest as we play the weather game on the shores of one of Swedens largest lakes.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Ps. RENAME

    29 Jun 2017, Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    As we decided we didn't want to play "Russian Roulette with 5 bullets"** we have re-named our blog to reflect the current route, which has been to cut out Estonia to Russia.
    **as described by a survivor of the Narva-St Petersburg route by bike.

    Despite having Russian Visas, we decided that this trip is more about the overall journey (and surviving!!) than merely just ego and "getting to Russia" at any cost, for the sake of a turning point destination.

    We had such an arduous trip through Poland, stressful back-to-back days sharing roads with heavy traffic through Latvia and Lithuania (despite being the internationally recognised Eurovelo route)...and then we were robbed in Latvia. It got to the point where we were ready for change and wanted to enjoy ourselves again, to be able to sleep without having to watch every shadow.

    We also met people who have cycled Russia-Narva and said that it was 150km of their lives that they never want to repeat. Highways of agressive lorry drivers or side streets with packs of dogs. Not two passtimes that we like too much!

    We were very happy to get on the boat at Riga and are loving Sweden, despite the challenging weather. ;)

    Its all about the journey and we've had great experiences throughout our trip. Onwards we go!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Vom Winde verweht...

    30 Jun 2017, Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    ...wurden wir letzte Nacht beinahe. Der Zeltplatz dieses Campingplatzes liegt leider an der windigsten Ecke. Bei 50 km/h Windgeschwindigkeit und Böen bis 85 km/h war die Nacht recht kurz. Das Tarp als Schutzschild hat gehalten, meine Angst, dass es reißen könnte auch die halbe Nacht. Die andere Hälfte war es einfach nur zu laut. Immerhin, die Vorhersage für Regen wurde korrigiert.

    In den Nachmittagsstunden erinnerte man sich dann doch noch an meinen gestrigen Wunsch, eine Hütte mieten zu wollen, die leider alle reserviert ware. Eine Stornierung verschaffte uns dann glücklicherweise doch noch ein ruhiges, gemütliches Dach über dem Kopf.

    Ein Spaziergang durch die Stadt war unser workout für diesen Tag. Sightseeing ist morgen dran.

    Ein 5-Gänge-Menü rundete den Tag ab. Mit Käse als Vorspeise, einem Curry als Hauptgericht und 3 Sorten Schokolade als Dessert lässt es sich leben. Jetzt hilft nur noch ein Pfefferminztee und stabile Seitenlage.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    1

    Prohibition in Askersund!

    1 Julai 2017, Sweden ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    10am breakfast out on the veranda of our little wooden house and it feels like Barcelona!!! Hot hot hot and no wind. Summer in Sweden has arrived!

    No...wait... step off the veranda and the wind sends a fresh reminder that this is Scandinavia and we jusy have a VERY fortunate location 😁

    Today was an ideal day for a napping, drinking chai and coffee, washing, watching the water from the lake lap on the little beach and taking a stroll to Askersund.

    It would have been a perfect evening for a glass of wine or a beer to accompany our meal but we've discovered rhe Swedish phenomenon of "dry" supermarkets. The entire wine section of the supermarkets are alcohol free.. yep. Alcohol free red wine exists.. not something I want to ever spend my money on!🙈🙊.

    All the beer, cider, porter etc is 3.5%. And you can't buy spirits. You have to go to the town's state-controlled alcohol market, be over 20, and shop before 3pm on a Saturday to get your hands on the real stuff. As we didn't realise this, I have a very disappointed Peter in my company who was not impressed with the Pilsener urquell with extra free water included in the price. ;)

    The rest of the day was spent admiring boats and the most shocking tattoos we'd ever seen on a young woman. This trip is certainly an eye-openeer on many levels!

    My hands are feeling good enough to get on the bike again tomorrow (conveniently still covered in plasters this morning excusing myself from the weekly (or should that be fortnightly;)?) washing.

    In other news, we hit the 4000km mark of our trip on Thursday. Happy cycling!

    Photos:
    Oat milk chai - THE BEST vegan chai flavour outside of india.
    Our little wooden house.
    The standard brown redcolour paint of 99% Swedish houses.
    The view across the bay.
    Seedish playgrounds have Elk toys, of course.
    Blue smurf hand.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    111

    Wieder in Fahrt

    2 Julai 2017, Sweden ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Nach unserem Kurzurlaub in Askersund verlief der erste Tag aalglatt. Mit Kurs Südwest ging es heute durch den Tivedens Nationalpark - tolle Landschaften, leider wieder keine Elche. Wir haben sie aber in den Wäldern rufen hören wie neulich nachts auch.

    Verwöhnt von langen Öffnungszeiten die ganze Woche über, standen wir heute auf einmal vor verschlossender Türe. Blöd, da es das einzig erreichbare Lebensmittelgeschäft war. Verhungert sind wir trotzdem nicht. Das Café nebenan bereitete uns einen leckeren vegetarischen Burger mit Pommes.

    Nach 75 km fanden wir wieder einen schönen, hoch gelegenen Biwak-Platz im Wald. Die sind die besten.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    3 Season Sweden

    3 Julai 2017, Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    A delicious 9+ hour sleep was a sign we were back to our preferred accommodation type, wild camping! Following our Sweden precedent of "steep small hill on the forest edge" we found a hill with a secluded circle of grass which had an even better hidden camp-sized space behind...and with wild strawberries.

    We made a morning tea and packed up, ready to head to the next "ICA" to buy breakfast. As we were nearly packed, three huge hares ran up towards us stopping a few meters away. They looked at us, and we looked at them, probably in equal measure surprised at the presence of the other. They then broke the pause and turned around and ran off where they'd come from. I've never seen hares so big before- like small dogs!

    We cycled towards the large town of Skövde, filled up water for free at a church en route (we noticed that all church yards have watering cans hanging so figured there would be water too!), had a mid-afternoon nap in a field- and ate dinner as well as breakfast on the road.

    Dinner was an absolute feast. Crackerbread, olives, tomatoes, paprika, carrots, tofu, AND the most delicious food find of the Sweden chapter "Bean Mole"...which is like British Branston pickle, but far nicer and more edible in large amounts, made of kidney beans, spices and even a small amount of chocolate. Certainly something to attempt to re-create at home.

    It was the trickiest day so far finding a wild camp. The inhabitant density had increased to farms a consistant few hundred meters away from each other as well as almost every bit of land being fenced off. The forest disappeared for a few kms leaving us with only open and more publically visible spots, which isn't necessarily a problem in itself but we prefer to be hidden for a more relaxed camp.

    Patience paid off and at around 10pm (still totally light) we found a perfect spot on a public picnic area which led up a hill to another picnic area with a patch of forest.

    The name of the post reflects our experience of Swedish summer so far. Mornings- fresh and full of promise of a warm day but with a nudge of winter in the air. Midday - if you find a totally secluded spot its warm (borderline hot!). Evening - get the long trousers, jackets and gloves out. Winter is coming!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    111

    Wasser

    4 Julai 2017, Sweden ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Das war heute das Thema des Tages. Auf der Fahrt zum Frühstücksladen kamen wir als erstes an einer alten Grabstätte vorbei, die wir unter die Lupe nahmen.

    Nach einem ausgiebigem Brunch machten wir uns auf die heutige Tour. Die Flaschen so gut wie leer (zur Erinnerung, 1,5 l Wasser sind nicht unter 90 Cent zu haben) kehrten wir gegen Nachmittag wieder bei einem Friedhof ein. Da er recht einsam gelegen war, bot sich auch gleich eine größere Wäsche an, um einen kommerziellen Campingplatz zu vermeiden. Die Stunde der faltbaren Gießkannendusche hatte wieder geschlagen. Wir ließen uns Zeit, da der Himmel am Horizont gefährlich schwarz aussah, ausgerechnet in Richtung unserer weiteren Route. Ein Blick auf das Wetterradar offenbarte, dass es knapp werden könnte, das Unwetter aber vorbei zieht. Wir blieben trocken und haben uns heute nur selbst nass gemacht :-)

    Im weiteren Verlauf fuhren wir durch Falköping, wo es nur Riesen gibt. Das sieht man an den Tischen und Bänken die dort stehen ;-)

    Um nicht wieder so lang wie gestern unterwegs zu sein, haben wir uns heute für die erst Stelle entschieden, die sich uns bot. Sie liegt in einem Waldstück mit vielen Tierpfaden. Beim Schreiben dieser Zeilen sind schon die ersten Bewohner des Waldes hörbar. Mal sehen, wer uns heute Nacht alles besucht.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Chilling...

    5 Julai 2017, Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Last night it did seem that we got a nocturnal visit - Peter heard the twigs snapping and then some grass munching and satisfied breathing which sounded like a funny horse. Maybe it was an elk!

    We had a lucky escape with chasing rain today. Big black clouds and a storm rolled in as soon as we had finished brunch. Thankfully there was a small shelter hut at the right place at the right time for us to be able to wait it out. It sounds a bit feeble avoiding rain, but even a "100% waterproof" jacket won't help against an hour-long Swedish down pour. Rain also makes road visibility worse and we've found its just better to play the game!

    Despite the rain we managed around 50km and found a place to camp after. A hill location but in a village with a quarry, goods-train line and elks....

    It was 15 degrees in the sun following this evening's close rain shower. With the wind you can safely take off a few degrees more. Heading south every day now!!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Die letzte Nacht in Schweden...

    6 Julai 2017, Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    ...verbringen wir wieder auf einem schönen Hügel. Ihn zu erklimmen war nicht ganz leicht. Dafür werden wir belohnt mit milder Temperatur und geringer Luftfeuchte und keinen Ameisen! Diese waren es heute früh, die es unerträglich machten, länger als 10 Sekunden auf einer Stelle zu stehen. Kaffee bzw. Tee trinken war wenig genussvoll.

    Der erste Teil der Tagesstrecke führte durch grünes Farmland und entlang des Radwegs Västgötaleden, dem wir partiell nun schon seit einigen Tagen folgen. Zwischenziel war - ICA in Alingsås. Heute dauerte es etwas länger, Brunch, Haare waschen auf der Kundentoilette, Autoverkäufer für Elektroautos auf dem Parkplatz analysieren und die vor jedem ICA obligatorische, bettelnde Flüchtlingsfrau beobachten.

    Der anschließende Teil führte durch eine immer bergiger werdende Landschaft und sehr abwechslungsreiche Gegend. Die letzten Kilometer gab es nochmal ein Geschenk in Form einer alten Eisenbahnstrecke, geradeaus und eben dahin.

    14 Kilometer sind es noch bis zum Fährterminal. Schweden hat einen besonderen Platz im Herzen bekommen. Mitnehmen werden wir viele gute Erinnerungen an tolle Landschaften und Menschen und zwei Gläser "Bean Mole".    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Country 11 - Denmark

    7 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our most urban wild camp so far was successful, a relatively quiet night with only a little noise from the nearby road. A 6.30 am alarm got us on our way into Goteborg once we'd picked off the slugs from the tent and given up on any hope of drying it.

    A 9.30 arrival at the ferry terminal was perfect timing for a final visit to our beloved ICA for a departure breakfast of turkish yogurt, cardamom granola and fruit muesli, even more fruit and a cheeky chocolate croissant. Oh and a farewell gift to ourselves of 2 final packs of Marabou chocolate. Apart from the ICA monstrosity we visited yesterday (the waste / sales ratio there must be criminal) its been an awesome place to shop with healthy food and a great range of non-junk. The staff at every checkout all spoke really good English in an instant the moment they realised we didn't understand and weren't Swedish. Pretty impressive!

    Sweden in summary:
    7 wild camps (FREEEEE)
    1 private campsite (20 eur per night)
    1 commercial campsite (3 x injury days)(14 Eur for a tent night, 35 Eur for a 2 person wood hut)
    Food
    1 commercial campsite - Stockholm city (30€ per night)

     Moral of the story - Sweden can be done very cheaply and with way more nature and tranquility than ona campsite if you can deal with ants, mosquitos and elks!

    As per the last ferry trip, we boarded the the ferry with the rest of the cars /lorries etc in a lane full of hardcore bikers each revving their engines as they went past to join the queue. A lorry driver fell about laughing as we faked an engine noise cycling up the ferry ramp :D

    As per precedent, it was raining as we disembarked but we decided to carry on and let the shower pass. EuroVelo route 3 is meant to be the crowning glory of the EuroVelo network, complete and signed. We decided we'd go for that one which should take us through the middle of Denmark as the tourist classic route. Impressively after only a few km we were out of the town into the rolling countryside. Little traffic and well signed tracks.

    Until it turned to stoney farm tracks.... disappointing start to EV3! road bikes and city bikes would have no chance. Its a little borderline with cyclability with our touring hybrids but fresh from my crash last week on such a road it wasn't worth the stress of trying to master it. Instead we've decided on a combined aporoach of cycling the route 3, when it turns from ashphalt to stones then we'll go on the orange grade roads.

    Tonight we're on a free community campsite complete with compost toilet, wood shed, benches and tables, 2 x sleeping huts (too full of spiders though) and a hedgehog. Great find!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    23

    Aalborg

    8 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Heute früh gab es keinen Alarm - Ausschlafen! Da es zweimal regnete, war das nicht schwer. Beim Frühstück reifte der Entschluss, dass wir uns wieder etwas resozialisieren müssten, d.h. eine heiße Dusche und eine Waschmaschine müssen her. Airbnb verschaffte uns auch gleich eine passende Unterkunft, die auf dem Weg liegt.

    Als die Sonne schließlich noch anfing zu scheinen, war dann auch schnell vergessen, dass ich meine Radkleidung über Nacht versehentlich draußen liegen ließ (2 x Regen). Die 37 km nach Aalborg sollten doch schnell gefahren sein oder? Heftigster Wind aus Südwest. Das war wieder richtige Arbeit, die Beine brannten als fährt man 45 km/h mit dem Rennrad auf der Geraden. Doch zeigte der Tacho eben nur 15.

    Zu lachen gab es auch. Kurz nachdem ein Plakat am Straßenrad auffiel, auf dem Traktor-Pulling angepriesen wurde, wurden wir von einem echten Bauern-Checker (country wideboy) überholt. Lustigerweise trafen wir ihn am Supermarkt wieder, sodass ich ein Foto von seinem Damenfänger schießen konnte. Als wir losfuhren, kamen auch gleich noch zwei weitere frisch 18-jährige in riesen Traktoren vorbei beeindruckten Sarah ;-) Im Supermarkt gibt es nun auch endlich wieder eine Sportabteilung, eine alte Liebe flammt auf!

    Jetzt sind wir in Aalborg. Der Empfang bei unseren Gastgebern war sehr herzlich. Mit Kreidezeichnungen wurden wir von der Straße hinein ins Haus geleitet. Wir und die Wäsche sind nun wieder frisch. Draußen fühlt es sich an wie ein Herbsttag, der Wind ist eisig, trotz 22 ºC am Nachmittag. Heute gab es eine dänische Pizza. Wir wählten Vollkornteig als Untergrund. Die fühlte sich so gesund an, dass man hätte gleich noch eine essen können.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    1

    Cruising through Legoland

    9 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Today's route was a gem, EuroVelo 3 for the most part with a bit of Peter freestyle at the end. We had a castle, lakes, forest, meadow, farms, ponds, a ford, cottages and of course, churches. Day 3 of Denmark and we're finding our stride. Danish scenery differs lots from Sweden as does the building style. Danes love their utilitarian squares; blocky churches, square houses with square windows etc..its a very minimal modern style which is nice but not quite as "cosy" or warm looking as most swedish dwellings.

    We set off from our airbnb house in Aalborg freshly showered and with ALL clothes washed- we haven't been this clean for over 2 months! 😂 (Ps if anyone is new to airbnb and makes a booking, let us know. We can send a referral link so we and you both get some money off!)

    We're taking advantage of another free "legeplads" today - the abundant free but basic campsites all over Denmark. This one has a big "dog kennel" wooden hut with an open front. Peter (aka "Mowgli" ) convinced me that we should stay in the "spider box" so I'm here writting this blog swatting off a mosquito from my face and hands every 20 seconds! I have a feeling its going to be a buzzy, bitey night!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    2

    Tuut tuut

    10 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Heute ging es viele Kilometer auf alten Eisenbahnstrecken voran, das lief wie geschmiert!

    Sarah hat die Nacht in der Spiderbox gut überstaden. Auch die Mücken gaben Ruhe, als es etwas kühler wurde. Die Nächte sind nun wieder deutlich dunkler als in Schweden.

    Bevor wir auf dem ersten Teilstück den Frühstückssupermarkt erreichten gab es eine Hand voll Himbeeren vom Straßenrad, lecker! Gesegnet sei die Kundentoilette, sie gibt den Bedürftigen auch neues Klopapier ;-)

    Dann ging es ab auf der alten Strecke Hangstholm-København! Dann folgte wieder ein Stück EV3 und eine Pause, damit meine Biscuit-Maus auf ihre Kosten kommt :-) Am Straßenrand lang plötzlich eine verpackte Gurke, eine nette Bereicherung für das Abendessen.

    Das letzte Stückchen Eisenbahnstrecke führte schließlich zu unserem heutigen Zeltplatz. Es ist wieder ein ganz einfacher Platz mit Trockenklo, Schlafbox und Handwasserpumpe. Von denen gibt es in Dänemark sehr viele. Sie werden i.d.R. von den Kommunen in Ordnung gehalten und sind kostenlos und nur für Wanderer und Radfahrer zugänglich.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Royal Bath Day for Prince Peter

    11 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Waking up to the sound of rain in the morning creates two feelings:-
    - mmmm! weather enforced lie-in! Snooze the alarm until the rain stops :)
    -Shhhh.. .. wet tent to pack :(

    Today's rain was particularly relentless, we had dried and packed all but the outer tent when the next downpour began. We moved into the newly-vacated shelter box to ride out the storm and to try and pack the tent. The nice part about our late departure was meeting a Danish walker, Jesper, who kindly made us a warm tea and gave us lots of native knowledge- the negative part was waiting until 3-30 for breakfast 😊 but when you're travelling you make your own rules which can mean chocolate for breakfast or 2 ice creams back to back. (Rules made by Peter Haupt).

    The rain stayed with us into the afternoon so we decided to turn in to one of the closer "legeplads" (the primitive free campsites). It was a good find, a handful of tents and an empty shelter box! We laid claim to the box and spent the rest of the afternoon chatting to our very cool 63 year old swedish camp neighbour , Mai, - travelling solo on a shopping bike (no gears!) with trailer. Despite being unable to help fulfil her herbal supply chain needs, she provided us with lots of useful info about these free campsites throughout Denmark. She also helpfully informed us of the availabilty of a warm shower down the road..., after i'd spent a cold ten minutes hopping about in the forest behind our shelterbox, washing my hair (with "hot" water Peter mixed into the cannister from the stove) 😨!

    Prince Peter then adjusted the shower making procedure and enjoyed a beautiful warm shower, fit for a king. I'm not jealous at all! ;)

    Goodnight from the spider box, in a field, up a hill, half way down Denmark!!.    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Im Reich der Biwak-Boxen

    12 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Auf unserem schönen Übernachtungsplatz starteten wir heute wieder ... ähm ... gegen Mittag :-) Das Frühstück nahmen wir zu uns in Jelling. Die Stadt hat etwas über die Geschichte der Wikinger zu erzählen. Dort gibt es eine großes parkähnliches Gebilde in Form eines Schiffs. Außerdem die eine oder andere Grabstätte.

    Wir kamen an einigen tollen Biwakplätzen vorbei. Einer hatte sogar eine Box für Pferde. Diese Plätze sind über ganz Dänemark relativ dicht verstreut und geben dem Aufenthalt hier eine ganz eigene Note.

    Es gab heute seit dem Verlassen der Donau das erste Mal wieder kleines Schloss zu sehen. Überall stehen auf den Weiden ganz junge Pferde. Deren Schwänze sehen aus wie die von Füchsen :-)

    Unsere heutige Schlafbox steht in Vejen. Dort gibt es gleich 4 davon. In dem benachbarten Lager feiert eine Horde Puzis. Vorhin sind zwei mit je einer Rolle Klopapier im Gebüsch verschwunden, ohne uns zu bemerken. Es folgte lautes Gekicher. Der peinliche Moment als sie wieder herauskamen und uns bemerkten war ein Fest :-D    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Damgaard Mølle

    13 Julai 2017, Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    When you think campsites and shelter-boxes can't get any better.....

    ...the free camping in Denmark has given us an absolute cracker!

    After trying 2 map-marked campsites that turned out to be a tic-filled field of 50cm deep grass and a scount camp next to a motorway, lucky number three was a "Mølle" (windmill)- not a field in the vicinity but actually under it, in the mill grounds! We are the only ones here too. Bonus!

    A beautifully mown lawn with table and chairs, a clean bathroom and electricity are the luxuries of the day. We just paid 30KR for us both(€4) to go inside the windmill which the caretaker unlocked for us. (Nice deal as the single person price was 30KR.

    --------

    The blackbird hopping about and singing on our shelterbox woke us up pretty early. I have never heard such a loud blackbird before 😄-A few cycles of snoozing the alarm got us on the way to our breakfast supermarket and onwards with EV3.

    Today's riding was pretty nice (as usual!!!)- mostly flat, some lovely tree-lined avenues forming tunnels over the track and the usual animal companions plus a camel and a black snake!

    Despite its slightly temperamental weather, Denmark is becoming a surprise forerunner as one of the favourite trip countries and I'd certainly recommend it to anyone who loves the outdoor life.

    Its much more expensive than Germany for food, but if that inflation is taxation which contribute to the awesome provision of free campsites, then I'm certainly a supporter.

    Photos-
    stocking up on free toilet paper ;)
    Roadside raspberries
    Lots of people playing croquet
    Today's tracks
    Peter horse whispering
    The windmill camp    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Rückkehr nach Deutschland

    14 Julai 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Nach einer kühlen Nacht neben Dänemarks einziger Buchweizenwindmühle brachte uns der Besitzer doch tatsächlich noch frische frische Brötchen zum Frühstück und schon am Vorabend eine Packung Erdbeeren, wow! Zur Überraschung sprach sein Schwiegersohn auch noch 1A Deutsch - sehr beeindruckend. Es ist sehr schön, solche gastfreundlichen und gebildeten Nachbarn im Norden zu haben. Das ist eine große Bereicherung für die europäische Kulturlandschaftging!

    Weiter ging es Richtung Süden auf dem EV3. Diesen mussten wir aber heute häufiger verlassen, da das Fahren auf grobem Kies kein Vergnügen und unendlich langsam ist. Vor der Grenze zu Deutschland - wir waren nur etwa 35 km entfernt - gab es noch 3 Übernachtungsplätze, auf denen wir uns Biwak-Boxen erhoften. Leider vergebens.

    Wir passierten etwas wehmütig am späten Nachmittag die Grenze. Seltsame Gefühle nach dieser Zeit im Ausland. Die OpenStreetMaps versprachen einen letzten kostenlosen Platz auf deutscher Seite - wie ungewöhnlich. Doch er existiert! So liegen wir nun auf einer alten Panzerteststrecke, die heute eine Heidelandschaft ist, in unserem Zelt und kommen zur Ruhe. Kein Mensch weit und breit, herrlich!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Moin moin!

    15 Julai 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Only 2x snooze alarms this morning after last night's 9 hour sleep 🙊. Despite the autobahn close by it was a lovely little wild camp. The sun was shining and it felt WARM!! The first time we've had a warm morning since the hour or so of microclimate on the terrace of our Askersund hut (Sweden!). Its quite a nice feeling to be heading south for summer part two!!

    The EV3 route which goes from Denmark into Germany along the "Ochsenweg" sadly deteriorated into lovelessness from the German side. The signage went from being clear metal signs to stickers on lamp posts and then nothing at all to distinguish it. The same went for the picnic shelters, which still had the Danish format but aren't maintained to the same level (or at all in Kropp where the whole picnic site was overgrown with nettles).

    The main city of the day was Schleswig;
    Ebike "cyclists".
    City on some water.
    Generic communication tower building.
    Generic shops.
    A castle-y building.
    More Ebikes.
    .....and then a veggie /vegan burger café!

    When a veggie/vegan burger café crosses your path its bad for promotion and support of vegetarianism to pass it by without spending money there ;) we did our duty and can confirm the food and mango-lassi were first class.

    We're now setting up a wild camp in a kind of conspicuous area - taking the tactic of a camp near a picnic area on a cycle path (no vehicles except farm traffic). Peter has also found a loop-hole stating that the usual "no wild camping" rule doesn't apply in 3 counties when you are travelling by bike or by foot. Thankfully one of those counties is Schleswig-holstein!    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter
    1

    Nasser Tag im Norden

    16 Julai 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Unsere Übernachtungsstelle entpuppte sich als sehr unruhig. Hundebesitzer, Motorradfahrer, Jäger... und es regnete. Das war nicht alles. Plötzlich stellte Sarah fest, dass heute Sonntag ist. Wie konnte das passieren? Wir lebten seit irgendwo in Dänemark im falschen Wochentag. Es gab also Notfrühstück im Zelt, zu Sarahs Freude bestand dies aus Ghandi-Flipflops. Es folgte eine Art Mittagsschlaf und noch etwas Warten.

    Als wir endlich unterwegs waren, kreuzte ein Café unseren Weg, gerade rechtzeitig, denn der nächste Regen sollte nicht lange auf sich warten lassen. Nach langer Musikabstinenz (unser Radio-Handy hatten wir leider schon in Österreich verloren) lauschten wir zünftiger Blasmusik bei Kaffee bzw. Tee und Kuchen, reichlich Kuchen :-) Es lief übrigens auch das Vogelbeerbaumlied - der Kenner weiß, wovon ich spreche.

    Am späten Nachmittag sind wir dann doch noch ein wenig vorwärts gekommen. Kurz vor dem Nord-Ostsee-Kanal legen wir uns heute zur Ruhe. Mit einer Pizza, Salat, Eis und ein paar Bieren im Bauch :-)    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Snailing to the South

    17 Julai 2017, Jerman ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    What kind of crazy farmer gets to work with a combine harvester at 5 o'clock in the morning? Obviously the one next to our camping field! 🙉

    He also woke up the birds who then proceeded to sing to each other like a bird rap-battle before the alarm went off.

    The early wake up call meant we were packed and ready to hit the road by 10am for our first German breakfast. (We've since worked out what day it is and found a baker open on a Monday!) Don't be fooled by the sunny picture of the campsite, the sun lasted long enough for clouds to gather and give us a little sprinking of rain as a departure gift, just as we were ready to pack the tent.

    Today's route of 85km was a ferry river crossing start followed by a mix of farm lanes, forest tracks and industrial estates -you can tell we're getting closer to Hamburg. It was also the most smelly day of cycling ever - it seems every Farmer decided today was the day for muck-spreading. 🙊 The dairy industry is alive and well up here, farms are full of dairy propoganda and questionable adverts. I responded appropriately by buying by 2x packs of vegan Ritter Sport in Edeka. ;)

    We're still far enough into the north where people greet with "Moin!" - it'll be interesting to establish how far south it stops and people revert back the more usual greetings.

    We're currently on a farm campsite - a total bum campsite but the water is boiling ready for a goodnight cup of "strawberry cheesecake" tea, so all is well! (I resisted the urge to try the chocolate brownie or apple strudel tea, sounds so tasty but also so wrong!)    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    Wieder in der DDR :-)

    18 Julai 2017, Jerman ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Gut ausgeschlafen erwartete uns heute ein warmer, windstiller Tag. Unser Kurs verlief südöstlich an Hamburg vorbei in Richtung Elbe. Der Speckgürtel dieser Großstadt ist alles andere als schön. Teilweise fühlte man sich wieder wie in Osteuropa mit einen Hauch von nahem Osten - eklig.

    Als dieser etwas anstrengendere Teil hinter uns lag begann kurz vor der Elbe dann doch noch ein schöner, historischer Bereich von Hamburg. Die meisten Häuser waren dort alle über 100 Jahre alt, die Dächer mit Stroh gedeckt, die Wände mit Fachwerk und durchweg in sehr gutem Zustand. Dort fuhren wir auch unseren 5000. Kilometer der Tour.

    An der Elbe angekommen gab es erstmal eine GROßE Brezel :-) Dann folgten wir der Elbe flussaufwärts am Nordufer noch einige Kilometer. Dabei überquerten wir die ehemalige innerdeutsche Grenze.

    Heute sind wir in der alten Schule eines Dorfes, die zur Herberge und Radlercampingplatz umfunktioniert wurde. Es ist ein sehr schöner Ort. Wir sind allein, gut für uns, schlecht für das Geschäft. Aber das ist hausgemacht. Man könnte den meisten Norddeutschen für ihren "Charm" schon nach zwei gesprochenen Sätzen eine klatschen, so auch den Besitzern hier. In Sachen Gastfreundlichkeit und Geschäftstüchtigkeit könnte der Norden von den Bayern noch viel lernen. Viele Vogtländer nebenbei bemerkt auch ;-)    Baca lagi

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  • Sarah and PeterBaltiNavia by BikeSarah and Peter

    The calm before the storm

    19 Julai 2017, Jerman ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We had a great sleep at the old school campsite and enjoyed a small breakfast with 2 other cyclists who were on a Germany tour before re-joining the Elbe route south.

    The second breakfast/brunch was an Edeka classic with a bakery who boasted Wednesday as Croissant discount day. Armed with breakfast packs of jam and fake nutella they made a perfect combination. We had to despatch a crazy cyclist before we cpuld tuck in. He seemed to just want an argument over the quality /price relationship of tyres, to give us a lecture on the merits of weight saving components as well as voicing his power-wattage calculations based on wheel friction..... he certainly chose the wrong people to try and impose his recommendations and criticisms on. They say Inuits have 1000 words for differnt types of snow, we have as many words for the differnt types of bikable (or not!) terrain and surface conditions found over most of northern/eastern Europe.

    The highlight of today's route was the Oma café we visited, set up in a beautiful cottage garden. A beer and a black tea (with a dash of milk) (no prizes for guessing what nationality clichés we fulfilled with that order!)..plus a little cake was enough to fuel us up to reach today's campsite.

    Today was the first hot day in a few months, sun amd temperatures in the high 20s. We worked out that we lost summer (as well as our sanity!) in Poland somewhere..and it didn't really come back as we know it, until now!

    Unfortunately the heat is bringing a storm with it, which looks forecast to begin in the early hours of the morning. The first thunder rumbles have already started.... let's see what happens! :/

    Photos to follow.    Baca lagi

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