Phin, Pho & Phun

June - July 2017
A 20-day adventure by Peter and Sue Read more
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  • Day 1

    Fog, Frost and Firewood

    June 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    1 day to go and it seems like there is a weeks' worth of work to be done before then. Packing is mostly done, essentials like money & passports are ready to go.

    Awoke to a cracking frost and one of the thickest fogs this season, having to keep the fire stoked up. Thinking that in 2 days time we be in Ho Chi Mihn City, where there forecast is a min of 24C, max of 32C, 85% RH & almost 100% chance of rain. Can feel the sweat dripping off me already.
    Good news, Air Asia has just been awarded the Best Low-Cost Airline in the world at the current Airline Awards in France. Will know in a couple of days if it is that good and see if it meets our travel standard.
    Busy day getting stuff done but all with an undercurrent of "hurry up & be finished" cos I am out of here soon!

    Fog, frost then glorious day about16C
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  • Day 2

    Tar, Trains & Terminals

    June 22, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Another heavy fog and frost to remind us just what season it is, winter. After some final packing, cleaning up and securing the house we ventured forth, to Yenda to get fuel, before hitting the highway. Fog all the way to Ardlethan. Funny how the only people who drive in fog without their lights on are the ones travelling at 60km/hr.
    After that it was clear sailing all the way to Sydney, just stopping at Temora for a coffee & rest-stop lunch at Goulburn, thermos & home made sandwiches.
    Arrived at Therrie & Ross's about 3.30 and after a quick freshen up we took the first of many, walk, with bags, to the train station. Pretty quiet with most folks going away from the city, not heading in. A quick change of trains at Wollei Creek and then we are at the International Terminal. Didnt have to wait too long before Justin arrives from his long journey from the city. Shortly after Louisa arrives from her flight from Wagga. All good, off to check in and then had to stand in queue for nearly 1 hour before our turn at the counter. Lucky everything was in order and we were processed quick smart. Straight through immigration & security, only Ross got the full scan machine. Had time for a quick sandwich & drink before time to board. Justin had done a few magic tricks & got us seats with a vacant seat between each pair so we werent all squashed in, despite the plane being almost full.

    Fog, Frost then fine & sunny about 16C in Yenda & 20C in Sydney.
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  • Day 3

    Breakfast in KL, Lunch in Ho Chi Minh

    June 23, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Arrived 4am local time so not much activity in the airport so just wandered about in a sleepy daze until we had a coffee - OK but not enough caffeine. Walked the airport some more before a light breakfast and stocking up on a bit of duty free grog. A long walk down Q terminal to our gate and pretty soon we were in the "premium" queue - Justin has done some more magic and got us all Exit Row seats. On board another pretty new Air Asia A320 and another full plane and then off on the 1 1/2 hour flight to Ho Chi Minh City.
    Didn't take long to disembark but too a fair while to get thru immigration, the stony faced officials were making everyone sure about the serious nature of their business. Our luggage was available stright away, through customs, nothing to declare, and then we burst outside in the warm humid air and a cacophony of horns, cars & bikes zooming around the airport. For the 1st time ever, there is a man waiting with a sign for Peter Reynolds, Justin has got the hotel to put my nameon the hire car booking, unreal. A few minutes wait and we bundle into a mini van and within seconds Therrie is screaming about an impending car crash as the driver, and every other driver, enters the suburban road netwok, where rules are guides only. For the next 20 minutes we wove in & out of traffic,mostly motorbikes and cars, not many trucks. Seems the only rule adhered to are the traffic lights.
    After about 20 mins of this trill seeking ride we were deposited at our hotel, just a small enterance off the street but very nice inside. Luckily they let us have 2 rooms (it was only 10am) so we dropped our bags off, the ladies had a shower and then we set off into the wilds of Ho Chi Minh City, 1st stop the ATM to get some cash. After a bit of mucking about laerning their ATM, we emerged all millionaires, in Viet Dong terms anyway.
    The comes the big moment - crossing the street. This is not a job for the faint-hearted. Taking note of Louisa who seems to have it down pat, we step steadily into the stream of traffic, it feels like wading a fast flowing river, the flow just seems to find its way around you, then keep walking, not stopping unless there is a taxi or a truck,until you reach the other side, and begin breathing again.
    Wandered around the area for a while before retreating to a restaurant for brunch - Pho, Rice or pork, all delicious.
    Now sustained, Sue, Therrie & Ross decided they were up for some shopping at the market across the road. It is a huge building, with thousand of small stall holders selling their wares - looks like you can buy almost anything but it is hard to look without someone grabbing your arm to tell you about their stall have the best quality goods in the world. Too much for Justin, Louisa & Peter who retreated to a nearby coffee shop to partake in a famous Vietnamese coffee.
    Then the drama begins, sue & therrie arrive, but no Ross. We investigate the market & surrounds, no luck so back to the hotel and he is not there either. after about 20 mins the front desk ring and say that Ross has turned up at another hotel, luckily he recognised the name ofour hotel & they rang and then gave him directions.
    While Ross was recovering, the rest of us took a walk to the Independence Palace where the old regime used and the new unified leaders met back in the 70's. Pretty austere place, no fancy trimmings here but itis all open to the paying public, even the bunkers underneath where they would go in the event of an attack.
    All good until the walk back to the hotel when the heavens opened up on us, and it just teemed down for about 15 mins, we eventually found shelter, but by then too late, so we made our way back, going into the hotel foyer spreading water everywhere. The look on the faces of the locals said it all - FOOLS! but were toopolite to say anything.
    So after drying ourselves and taking our bag of wet gear to a nearby laundry (which also doubles as a lingerie shop - maybe they sell all the fancy gear left behind) we took over the breakfast room and had a couple of drinks to review the day's events.
    Suitably refreshed, we headed out at dark to find some dinner, discovering that we were too early to eat at the food market just down the road. As we headed off to a bar to wait, we see a massive procession of motorbikes with trailing wagon & carriages, all the stuff for the food markets. In the time it took us to have drink, the food stalls were already serving.
    Justin picked one he had been to before and we sat down to a scumptious meal of duck, squid, beef and veg, garlic fried rice and a few beers. And then the bill arrived - after some conversions it was $10.50 per person. Unreal.
    Fully filled up we all retired for a pretty early night.

    Highlights
    * The very friendly people who helped Ross get back to his right hotel;
    * Crossing a major street without incident;
    * Getting everyone here happy & safely;
    * Getting soaked in the rain and not even caring;
    * having my name of the airport arrivals, hire van;
    * the Vietnamese coffee;
    * The dinner in the pop up restaurant.

    Weather - Overcast, humid and then torrential rain before a warm humid evening. Max 32C
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  • Day 4

    Tia Chi, War Museum and more Iced Coffee

    June 24, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Saturday 24th June
    Another summers day in Ho Chi Minh City which means overcast, very humid with sunny patches and very warm,and, did I mention humid?
    * Sue, Louisa and Peter went for a pre-breakfast walk in the park, only a couple of blocks away. It was full of ponds, massive trees and grassed areas and about 10,000 people doing either Tai Chi, excercises, Badmington, shuttlecock or just walking or jogging. All low intensity stuff but looks like a pretty nice start to a day, rather than Bootcamp, pump or other high impact stuff done at home. So after imagining us doing some of these activities, we wndered back to a coffee shop and had an iced coffee before returning to the hotel for brekky, either western or local style...
    * Then out the door to walk a km to the War Remnants museum, a display and explantation of the Vietnam war, from the Vietnamese perspective. Quite confronting with graphic photos of war atrocities and the damge caused to the locals. Certainly puts a different outlook on the war, the cause and the eventual victory by the VC. Sue & Justin chose to retreat to the coffee shop instead and had a good old catch-up chat.
    * Continued our walk , firstly to Notre Dame cathederal which was closed but we watched a bridal couple get their photos done, in front, but on the street with traffic going around them;
    * Then onto the Post Office, a grand old style PO full of ornate fittings, old style counters, traditional phone booths along each side and a huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh overseeing the whole lot.
    * Travelled further passed the Opera House, stopping for another Iced Coffee (graduated to a No 3 strength this time) before reaching the riverfront. Not very inviting, probably the only people in there would be those who had no say in the matter.
    * Wandered some back streets until we happened upon a likely looking lunch place., upstairs seating on big benchesand the cooks working awayin the back part. The specialty was Noodles & soup but we settled for beer and a type of rice dumpling and rice pancake,, a bit bland but something different.
    * Partially refreshed we kept going, stopping in front of city hall to pay homage to the immense statue of President Ho Chi Minh, before arriving at Saigon mall, a mall you could find anywhere in the world, same layout, similar shops & goods. Louisa went off and lucked upon a dress exactly what she was lokking for. The rest of us just loitered about watching the locals.
    * Found our way back to the Hotel, passing a vast array of touts, sellers and beggars who quietly but persistenly seek our $ or patronage.
    * Before long it was time for a drink and then headed off for dinner at the markets or local restaurant, missing out on the rain that was a bit late today.

    Highlights
    * walking around the park early in the morning watching all the people doing Tai chi, Shuttlecock, Badmington, excecises, jogging.
    * The War Museum;
    * More excellent coffee;
    * Justin cupcaking himself;
    * Catching up on gossip over coffee.

    Weather, very warm & humid, about 31C, rain later in the evening.
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  • Day 6

    Cu Chi Tunnels and a Rooftop Bar

    June 26, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Sunday 25th June
    * Much quieter during the early morning walk to the park but still plenty of people doing their excercises. On the way back I noticed the the soccer fiels were fullof kids doing soccer training, at 6.30am.
    * A quick breakfast and out the door by 8am when we were picked up in a mini van to start our 1 1/2 hrs trip & tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels. The trip took us through the city, along a highway where the bikes & scooters have their own road on the side. Apparently there are 8million scooters / bikes & 1million cars in Ho Chi Minh with a population of 12 million. Owning is scooter (Vespa, etc) is a bit upmarket and a bit "girly" so most men ride small motorbikes (which look pretty similar to a scooter). Then the bus does a detour and goes to a small goods factory, supposed all made by the special needs workers, victims ofthe war, where we are escorted past some things being made before going through the shop. On Justin's advice we didnt buy anything and in fact we saw exactly the same mass produced goods at the markets for much less $.
    Only 12 on our bus, us rowdy 6, a Swedish family of 4 who were very quiet and a British couple. Plus Ling our tour guide and the bus driver. Ling was excellent, a dry sense of humour and very personable nature. She was pretty short and hard to spot in the crowds at the tunnels.
    Back on the bus and we carreened down a series of back roads going passed rural villages, rubber plantations and a massive greenhouse development before arriving at the tunnels, with about 50 other bus loads of tourists. Ling was very surprised, it is low tourist season but many Vietnamese were there today.
    The first thing we did at the tunnels was sit in a big thatched roof building in amongst the forest and watch a black and white video explaining about the tunnels(a littlebit) and how the North Vietnamese liberated the south fromthe foreign invaders. They highlighted a young lady who was filmed digging tunnels, shooting, killing while starving but officially she had a "wonderful life". All things considered they did kick some serious USA invasion right outof their country.
    We were escorted through the forest and it was explained to us how the guerillas built over 200 km of tunnels in this area, housing around 16,000 people over the 6 years, almost 1/2 died defending their lands. The guerillas were tiny people and the tunnel enterances and replica tunnels have been widened to let us fat western people fit through. They have recreated workstations where cooking was done, uniforms made, landmines and booby traps were made and then we got to experience a section of tunnel (had lighting and widened) with exit holes every 20m. Out of our group, Peter was the only one to do the 1st 100m, following a guide who did most of it on his haunches, while I was scrabbling along on all 4's. Eventually popped up like a rabbit from a burrow. As a final token we were given some Tapioca and green tea, to replicate the guuerilla rations I guess.
    Then back onto the bus for a non-stop trip back to our hotel.
    * Had a nice lunch nearby and then a coffee before some relax time. Sue & Peter went to the markets and tried some haggling, we wont give up our day jobs, but I dont think we were ripped off.
    * Then we were escorted by Louisa & Justin, by foot, to a hotel where they stayed in the past. Pretty ordinary from the outside but once we got to the Rooftop Bar on the 9th floor, we were left speechless. A most spectacular view over the HCM skyline, beers @ $1, delicious food and great company.
    * Then when we left the hotel, we did not know that everyone in HCM had been invited to cruise the streets around this area on their scooters. Every cafe bar was packed, the streets were clogged and it seems that Sunday night is the time for young Vietnamese men to take their girlfriends out and show them their driving /riding skills. Took every skill we had just to cross every street without injury or causing a collision.
    Finally made it back to our hotel undamaged and retired, ready for an early start the next day.

    Highlights
    * Cu Chi Tunnels;
    * Travelling to & from the tunnels, going through some farm lands;
    * Ling, our very happy & lovely tour guide;
    * Our rooftop dinner & Million $ views;
    * The chaos of scooters, cars and horns filling the streets on a Sunday night.

    Weather - Overcast, very humid, few light showers, 32C
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  • Day 7

    Hot in Hue, cool in the Scarlett Hotel

    June 27, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Mon 26th June
    Early start with plane to catch so had a quick breakfast and jumped in a couple of taxis and had our last adrenaline rush of HCM road madness. Usual stuff at the airport, check-in etc then had to get checked but some officials before going through security, having to remove all shoes, belts, caps etc. Then we had to get ushered onto busses which took us across the airfield to our waiting jet, the price of flying low-cost airlines.
    Full plane and soon we were off, getting a nice view of HCM city before disappearring into the clouds, for a bit over 1 hour flight to Hue. Louisa's neighbour tried to pretend to hold the arm rest but strayed onto her leg a few times, Yuck. My neighbour was a tiny (< 5ft tall) old man and probably a farmer on his 1st ever flight. I had to show him how to put on the seat belt. On the descent he just took off his seat belt and virtually leaned right over me to get a view out thru the window. Lovely views coming into Hue over the fish farms and rice fields in the delta area.
    Landed at Hue International airport but had to disembark onto the tarmac and wait for buses to the terminal, where our bags were waiting.
    Justin's magic worked again with our private hire van waiting to take us the 20 min trip into town, dropping us off at our hotel, the Scarlett Boutique hotel.
    Hue has about 350,000 people and is the old Vietnam Imperial Capital for thousands ofyears. It is on the Huong River which is a short river, about 40km long before it goes into the sea.
    Too early to check-in but we were invited into the lounge and served chilled juice & fruit platters while the staff explained the hotel and surrounding areas, the highlights & attractions.
    Had a walk down the road for coffee, Justin bought some anti-biotics (over the counter mind you) for a chest infection he has picked up, had a pub lunch before returning to our hotel to check in.

    We are all amazed at the rooms, small sized but exquisitely fitted out - a king sized bed, full ammenities and rose petals on the bed and on the toilet & handbasin. Later in the evening when we returned from dinner we find the bed turned down, bottle of water & glass by the bed, curtains drawn and new towels. The laundry we dropped off at 4pm was delivered back all clean. AND, all this for $36 per night.

    The ladies were sufferring a bit so they booked in for a massage & then Ross decided it was for him also. Peter went for a walk along the river, arriving back drenched in sweat, with the humidity at >70%, it was a good workout.
    After everyone recovered we got together for a drink and made a plan for dinner. Louisa found a small place just nearby called Nooks and we foind it run by an expat Aussie. Food was excellent as were the beers. Sue tried the local wine, after adding soda water & ice, found it passable. Still very warm & humid when we returned to our hotel.

    Highlights
    * getting to Hue;
    * Beautiful Scarlett Boutique Hotel;
    * great dinner at Nooks.

    Overcast, hot & very humid. About 36C & >70% RH, threatened rain in the arvo, but stayed up in the hiils
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  • Day 8

    Tombs, Citadel, Pagoda & Mr Hoa

    June 28, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Tuesday 27th June
    * Our day of cultural in the old Imperial city of Hue began with an 8am pickup from our hotel, we booked our own tour, mini van and an english speaking guide, Mr Hoa. He is a local independent tour guide and had excellent english, with an American accent.
    * First stop was the Tomb of Minh Mang, about 20km from Hue. The tomb is set on about 18ha and was built by Minh Mang before his death. Mr Hoa told us many times that Minh Mang had 600 concubines, had 142 children and 83 sons and the story was that he was so strong he had 5 concubines in 1 night & 3 got pregnant! Not even sure if Minh Mang is really buried there as all the workers who transported the coffin were killed immediately after so no-one knew for sure where the emperor lay. Took 10,000 workers, 3 years to build the whole tomb site. As we were early it was not crowded until we were leaving which was good. Hot already and our shirts were soaked after walking around the site.
    * Was only a short drive to the Tomb of Dong Khanh who was leader when the French occupied the country and he spent some of his life in France. His tomb combines both Vietnamese & French themes & architecture. Looks fairly plain outside but it is immensely ornate inside with the main chambers being totally covered in mosaics, made from local and imported tiles, stones, pottery, etc. This tomb took 11 years to build, mainly to finish the mosaic.
    * Along the way we stopped at a small shop where they make paper models - of everything. Clothes, household appliances, houses, everything that is considered a possession, all hand made out of special paper. These models are the bought by families and burnt as a special sacrifice to their ancestors. Tradition is that on the anniversary of the death of ones elders (for 3 generations back) a sacrifice & rememberance is carried out. Over 80% of Vietnamese are "athiests" in that they revere their ancestors rather than a religion.
    * Back into Hue to visit the Citadel (the Hue Imperial City) which was the palace for the Emperor, until 1945 when the French took control. Much of the original palace was destroyed by war, firstly by the French in the 1940's and then by the Americans (& Sth Vietnamese I assume, but they are never mentioned) in the 1960's. Some is original and some has been rebuilt under the UNESCO World Heritage program. We visited all the main parts of the Citadel, with Mr Hoa getting us together for "Important Iformation" before setting us off to look and take photos. His catchcry here was " All Gone, because of the Bombs".
    * Time for lunch so we were taken to very nice place in amongst a lush garden, supposedly originally owned by one of the officials from the last emperor. Nice but expensive.
    *After cooling off, we jumped back into our van & headed of to the Pagoda ofthe Celestial Lady (Thien Mu Pagoda). This is a Buddhist Pagoda built in 1602 to honour the celestial Lady (Buddha). The legend has it that unmarried couples should not visit as the lady will be influenced by the pagoda and they will break up soon after. Behind the pagoda is some formal gardens including a Bonsai garden will trees that were hundreds ofyears old and 1 monk has the responsibility for 1 tree.
    * By this time Mr Hoa was pretty relaxed and cracking jokes and there was plenty of chat about families and life in general.
    *The last part of the tour was a short walk down to the river where we got on a dragonboat and they took us back up to near our hotel. Apparently the family who have the boat live on it, packing away their home each day and the passengers sit on plastic chairs during the journey and the owner brings out a series of souvenirs to try and sell to make a bit extra. Was nice and cool on the water and the 1/2 hour trip back was very pleasant.
    * Then a 10 min walk back to the hotel and it was done. We all decided we were very lucky to have Mr Hoa, he was easy to talk to and had lots of information about every site and was happy to tell us all about his life, family and Vietnam culture. Well worth the extra $ for his services.

    * We all needed a cool shower & a relax before re-convening for a drink and then dinner at a nearby restaurant. Retired pretty early but no one complained.

    Important Information (Mr Hoa)
    The Vietnamese flag is red (represents the blood of the people) and the yellow star is the colour of their skin. The 5 points of the star represent the 5 levels of socialist society 1- intellectuals, soldiers, peasants, workers and youth.

    Highlights
    * Cultural tour (see above);
    *Mr Hoa (Also see above);

    About 36C and >60% humidity made for a very hot day, all day.
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  • Day 9

    Hue - DIY City Tour day

    June 29, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Wednesday 28th June
    * After the full-on day yesterday it was a day to ease back a little and enjoy the city.
    * Justin - personally I think he got to thinking about the old emperor too much and decided today was his day to be emperor. As his room is on the top floor, he spent much of his day giving royal orders to his workers back home, while here he sent his minions out to buy orange juice for his pleasure. Lucky we were allowed to see his face, in the old days no-one was allowed to look at the emperors' face, or be beheaded!
    * Ross & Therrie also got on the royal thinking - taking a boat across the river to then explore the Dong Ba Markets, where anything & everything can be purchased, from fresh produce (figurative term as the temp was 36C and there is no refrigeration) to materials, to homewares, spices, food stalls and souvenirs. After that mayhem they strolled back across the river, enjoying the coolish breeze.
    * Louisa, Sue & Peter took the peasant tour, walked south to check out a nearby supermarket, which was pretty similar to all supermarkets. Quite a bit dearer than the markets but still cheap compared to home (given the products are very similar). Interesting in the meat section, almost no beef, a bit of chicken, plenty of duck, pork and seafood and featured a nice display of frogs, all skinned & ready to cook. Peter gained a close shadow (Store security man) when he was looking in the liquor section, definitely NO photos here. Wine is expensive - Jacobs Creek for about A$40/bottle. Bought some snacks (& Justin's juice) and wandered back through some back streets, offices & expensive housing area but we did stop for coffee and had some delicious ice coffee for aboutA$2.70 for 3.
    Dropped the stuff at the hotel before also walking over to the Dong Ba markets - was pretty quiet - everyone was having a siesta before the afternoon shift. Still plenty to see but we made no purchases.
    * All convened for a late lunch at a nearby lunch shop, enjoying some local specialties and a cool beer.

    Time to relax for a while, there was thunder about an we expected a storm, but this passed us by but the day was very hot & humid.

    Ross enjoyed another massage before we got together at Zucca's restaurant for dinner, enjoying traditional Vietnamese Pizza & Rissoto and Italian red wine. We also drank a toast to Maurice who passed away this day last year.

    To finish the day we had a walk along the riverside where they have night markets, mostly food stalls and souvenirs. The temperature was quite pleasant now, much cooler.

    Highlights
    * Dong Ba markets;
    * Walk across the bridge / river;
    * Delicious iced coffee for very little $
    * Lunch - different style to previous Vietnamese lunches.

    About 36C again and >60% RH and threat of rain.....
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  • Day 10

    Road Trip - Hue to Hoi An

    June 30, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Thursday 29th June
    We enjoyed our last breakfast in Hue before packing up our gear and right on time our van arrived to take us on our next part of our trip - a road trip along the coast to Hoi An, about 150km away.

    Our Driver, Thinh, spoke pretty good English and laughed most of the way.

    Once out of Hue, we followed the coast, fish farms (on land and in the sea) and rice on either side of the road. Look like small farms and work is done mostly by people and buffalo, not many tractors here, even small ones. All along the road are houses / businesses, all types from repair shops, hardware, clothing, food and every so often a large government building identified by the large sign at the front in Red & Yellow and have the best kept gardens.
    Through a couple of tunnels (paid by a toll way, so not so much traffic) and then onto Lang Co where we stopped at the beach for a swim & coffee. Lovely soft (but very hot) sand and warm, shallow, clear water. Sue & Therrie got their feet wet but only Peter went in for a swim (twice).
    Soon after the road rose up the mountain with spectacular views along the coast until we reached the top (Hai Van Pass) and stopped for a view back over the sea to the North and over Da Nang to the south. We could have taken the quick road though another tunnel but no views that way. Was a bit hazy on top but fabulous views all around.
    An equally sharp descent saw us arrive in DaNang, the 3rd largest city in Vietnam, a coastal port city. As we arrived, Thinh asked us about lunch and suggested a shop he knew (family friends) along the road that only served the local Pho - spicy beef in broth with noodles. We agreed and it was well rewarded with a delicious Pho, probably the best we have had so far. All finished within about 15 minutes, so back into the bus and we took the scenic route (coast) roads through Da Nang, passing a huge amount of development, all resorts & golf courses (Chinese & USA $) while the locals live very poorly, just over the road.
    Just south of the city we stopped at a huge marble factory where local marble is hand carved into anything. Thinh said he would have a 30 min sleep but after 10 min, we were just sitting near the bus, he decided to go on. As a cynic, I imagine that there was some benefit to Thinh to keep us at the factory for enough time for us to buy something and when it was obvious we were not buyers, he decided to move on.
    Just a few minutes up the road we turned in to the Marble Mountain - an outcrop of high grade marble that had been carved out to supply the marble market. After paying less than $1 entry fee, we went into the centre of the mountain which is a natural / manmade cavern. on the walls and in man-made alcoves the workers have carved figures / designs and statues into the rock. There were the usual Buddha's and scholarsbut on the lower levels there were some demonic carvings with depictions of demons, torture and nasty stuff. There was a very small sprial staircase winding right up through the middle to a small platform overlooking the city. There were some magnificent carvings on the walls and in nooks and crannies. Could have spent ages checking them out but a bus load of Koreans armed with chatter and selfie sticks sort of dampened the mood.
    Back onto the bus and within about 1/2 hour we were deposited at our hotel, Calla Villa, just on the west side of the Hoi An Ancient Town. The rooms are very nice and large with a huge bed. The hotel is a sort of H shape with 1 area between the H was filled with a pool, about 20m long. After checking-in, a dip in the pool was first-up, very nice indeed. A couple of beers and a splash about later, we were ready to hit the town.
    A short walk along the river we reached the old town area just on dusk so by the time we had a cocktail, dark & all the lanterns were lit and cast a lovely splatter of colour across the water. The whole town area is heritage listed and the old shops are all adorned with flowering creepers and lanterns. We just wandered about looking at the colourful streets and shop displays, trying to avoid the numerous street vendors selling anything from food, drink, sunglasses and toys. It is supposedly the low season, not many international tourists but seem to be planty of Vietnamese tourists to take their place. After dinner and a couple of local beers, Larue, we navigated our way through the crowds, back to the hotel. At least the temp had dropped down so it was quiite pleasant out.

    Highlights
    * Road trip up the coast & over the pass;
    * Poadside lunch in Da Nang;
    * Marble Mountain;
    * Hoi An lanterns & Old town.
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  • Day 11

    Hoi An - Tailor Made

    July 1, 2017 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    Friday 30th June
    Easy start to the day before walking down through the town, looks a bit different in the daytime. The old town area is World Heritage Listed and the buildings are a combination of Vietnamese, Chinese, French & Portugese, all the nations who have used Hoi An as a trading port for some hundreds of years. Almost all the buildings are used as houses / businesses, mostly tourist oriented.
    We made our way to Be Be tailors where Ross arranged to have a suit made, Louisa a skirt & Sue a trench coat.
    The whole experience is amazing, the moment we walked in we were escorted to a table and issued with iced water and a cool hand towel. Each customer had their own consultant who discussed the item, showed a range of materials and colours, drew the rough design and took any amount of measurements and in Ross's case, took photos. Within 1/2 hour, we were all done, paid a deposit and told to come back in 6 hours. The store is huge with seemingly acres of reams of material and rear of the store has about 100 tailors making every article from scratch.
    When we returned at 4 for 1st fitting they had pretty much finished Louisa's skirt, all but finished Sue's coat & the suit was together but needed significant adjustments, requiring the prescence of the tailor to come and inspect the needed alterations. Amazing to think that it all was just a design a few short hours before.
    Lunch was amazing, Louisa & Justin located a shop that was famous for its "sandwich" or Manh Bi. After a long, hot walk through suburbia and down narrow streets & alleys, we thought this was a wild goose chase, until we found the shop, a tiny little cafe, able to seat about 12 with the food prepared out of a little glass cabinet. The sandwich is spiced meat and various herbs & pickled vegetables in a crispy but soft bun. It was so good Justin & Ross had to have 2. A Manh Bi & beer cost less than A$2, outstanding food. The owner, Phi, said that he has the rolls specially made, just for him. Well worth the walk to & from.
    Was very hot so after lunch we retired to cool rooms / swimming pool. Cooled off a bit after the fitting so we found a restaurant nearby and had an ok dinner and then tried a banana pancake from a street vendor which was made on the spot and very yummy.

    Highlights
    * the whole tailor experience;
    * Manh Bi roll for lunch;
    * checking out the old town during the day;
    * relaxing by the pool;
    * banana pancacke

    Weather was real hot, 36C & >70% humidity
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