Portugal
Fão

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    • Day 14

      Fao to Esposende

      September 25, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Leaving Fao, I crossed a bridge which led to Esposende. Some through town and some along the river. They have a great bike path along the water. The walking trail is unfortunately cobblestone. There was a lot of that today. Just before leaving town, I stopped at a café. In the washroom there was a fireplace! It is near the ocean, but is a fireplace necessary in the toilet?Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 4 Esposende to Anha

      September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Part 1 Left the Albergue before sunrise, 7:00am. Today was a 20km day over a mountain!! Literally, 140m elevation through cobblestone streets, and forest paths. It was tough, but so worth it. So much beauty and history.Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 4 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      April 26 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Woke at 3am and couldn’t get back to sleep, so finally gave up and hit the road just before 6am. Slight panic that the blister I have would hinder the journey, but after a while I didn’t even feel it.
      Lots of coffee stops to break up the walk, and quite a few cats. If I could, I would take them all home and look after them 😕
      Back to hostel living tonight, but have just the one roommate - Rita from London. Other walkers have been slightly standoffish but that’s ok - we’re all just doing our own thing, afterall. The locals on the other hand have been delightful and those little interactions have brought a smile to my face. From the man who came out of the cemetery to try and give me a walking pole someone had left behind - not a dead person, but a girl who’d just walked past and left it at the cemetery gate - to the cyclist who told me “de santo não tem nada!” when I said “santinha!” to his friend, to everyone who says “bom dia”, people have been friendly and welcoming.
      Also, food, glorious food! Had bacalhao a bras followed by arroz doce for lunch, and promptly fell into a food coma when I checked in 🤣
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    • Day 11

      Day 3 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      April 14 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Day 3 on the Camino and the skies continue to be blue and the temperature warm. The same is forecasted for at least the next 10 days. This area has had so much rain previously that we were very nervous for our planned time here but we have been very lucky weather wise, so far.

      Today being Sunday, there were loads of families out walking and enjoying the beaches. We left later than we normally like because I (Peg) couldn’t pass up the free breakfast, that came with our room last night, but it wasn’t served until 8am. We arrived at our Albergue about 3:00 with many stops along the way to refuel our bodies and rest our weary bones. Tomorrow we have further distance to cover so will definitely be leaving earlier.

      As they say in Portugal, Bom Caminha!
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    • Day 5

      Beach to Forest

      April 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      This morning we were up early and headed out for more adventures. We hiked along the ocean a bit as we left Esposende and then traded the boardwalks for winding our way through sleepy villages on quiet country lanes. The roosters crowed us along and we were visited by several cats and dogs as we made our way north. It was so encouraging to see the many Bom Camino signs that we passed. We are still very careful to spot the yellow arrows that point us in the right way because none of us want to risk getting off track 😂. The recent rains turning to bright sunshine this week and the fact that it’s springtime here has so many beautiful flowers blooming in the small yards- bird of paradise, roses, rhododendrons, irises, wisteria and flowering fruit trees are intoxicatingly fragrant as we walk by but they are rivaled by the riotous display of wildflowers too! We passed wild daisies, ferns of every shape, calla lillies, poppies and sweet clover and they are busting from rock walls and in fields. This afternoon we even saw foxglove blooming in pastures and grapevines blooming with tiny baby grape buds- a real treat! Portugal is especially beautiful now. Angèle had a close encounter with a green snake that poked his head out from the vines so that they were face to face- I almost lost my mind! But she was brave and we kept going. We visited so many churches today- those dedicated to Michael the Archangel, S. Joâo de Monte, Senhora de Miséricordia, S. Sebastio and a very special one, Igreja Santiago de Castelo de Nieva which holds an inscription of dedication of the original church to San Tiago dating from the year 862- it’s the oldest consecration to the Apostle from outside of Spain! We spent most of the afternoon hiking through forest land over rocks and branches and through some mud. It was so hot today as we marched along our 18 miles (!) and we were about to stop and take a rest when we came upon a little donativo cantina in the woods run by a very friendly Portuguese man who sang to us as we accepted his generosity and had some melons and fruit, icy drinks and even a little port wine- yes please and obrigato! Thankyou! We kept going then and passed over the river Lima as we entered Viana do Castelo walking across a metal bridge done by the Eiffel school. We enjoyed a light supper at a bar that had a DJ playing traditional Portuguese Fado music and then had an Uber take us up the mountain to our albergue Santa Luiza- it was 600 steps up some treacherous stairs and we felt it wise to stay safe. I did the stairs last year with Richard and once was enough for me! The Sanctuário de Santa Luzia (also known as Templo do Sagrado Coraçáo de Jesus) is atop of the mountain and an imposing sight! We needed to check in so we’ll visit the Sanctuary in the morning- for now it’s laundry and sleep! We’re in an 8 person dorm room and my 3 sisters are all on top bunks- reminiscent of our childhood days! Tomorrow is our last day in Portugal for awhile and it will be another long day so we’ll get our rest and be ready to hoist up backpacks and leave early.Read more

    • Day 5

      We Keep Walking!

      October 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

      We moved away from the coast today and entered a more rural landscape, walking on cobblestones and dirt paths. The continued rains here have made a muddy mess but at least in the villages, forests and vineyards, while it was chilly, we weren’t battling that stiff north wind. It did rain a lot today but there were also sunny times and a rainbow! The forests were lush and beautiful but some of the ways we went down the mountain would definitely not be approved by my orthopaedic surgeon! We crossed over the river Nieva on a sketchy looking concrete block bridge and I held my breath the whole time! Ultimately we clocked 19.75 miles, 48,515 steps and 58 flights of stairs today- a record for me and I feel it tonight!
      Passing through the villages we visited so many churches and chapels. There is understandably a particular devotion here to Our Lady of Fatima and almost every church has some type of remembrance. At Castelo de Nieva we saw the first church in Portugal ever consecrated to S. James- it dated back to 862 AD. In Viana do Castelo we walked over an iron bridge called the Ponté Eiffel to cross the river Lima- it was done by the Eiffel school and was pretty cool! Before we climbed the 600 feet up to our alburgue (rooming house) we stopped for a Pilgrim meal, a set menu including wine at a cheap price. Delicious! We are staying at the Alburgue San Luzia which is connected to the Sé (cathedral) - the reward of having the most amazing view of the city was worth the effort of the 600 meter climb- there are many sweet pilgrims also now staying here who we now consider our friends- now off to sleep- more adventures tomorrow! Fingers crossed the rain stops!!
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    • Day 4

      Day 3 Agucadoura to Esposende

      September 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another short day, 11km. My pack is getting lighter…probably because I’m losing my gear 😂 Adapter in Porto and sleep liner and ear plugs in Vila do Conde. I was able to replace the adapter at the “Chinese store” for 8€.
      Todays walk was a mix of boardwalk, cobblestones and forest. It was nice to have the shade. Arrived in Esposende early, had lunch and wandered around town.
      Yesterday on my walk a lady on the street gave me a scallop shell charm…Bom Caminho! So sweet. Today I was able to get a leather necklace for it
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    • Day 5

      Povoa to Beach Resort Hotel, Esposende

      April 25 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Today was Dia da Liberdade, and the 50th anniversary of the Portuguese revolution. It was another short(ish) day of walking — 13 miles, only 6 hours with breaks. Beach boardwalk, then inland boardwalk, some towns, a golf course, a quiet wooded stretch on a dirt road. Kathleen took lots of flower photos — spring is a great time to be here! We’ve been seeing the same people at break stops and on the trail, and everyone wishes each other Bon (or Buen) Camino! Our hotel upgraded us to a Jr Suite — and the twin beds were all of 18” apart, not smushed together like at the other hotels. Kathleen, of course, did her traditional headstand on the beach, and we had a great sunset view at dinner.Read more

    • Day 4

      Porto to Povoa

      April 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      We’re on the Camino for real! After breakfast we taxied to the beach north of Porto — and started walking at the Praia da Memoria obelisk. Most of the 13 miles to our destination in Povoa de Varzim were along a beach boardwalk, sometimes past sand dunes, always surrounded by wildflowers, and lots of bamboo stands. We walked thru a couple of small fishing villages, then thru a large urban area at the end. There were dozens of other pilgrims along the way, a handful of bicyclists, and many locals enjoying the boardwalk as well. At lunchtime we chatted with a young couple from Ireland at an outdoor cafe — she had recently walked a pilgrimage in Japan. Sunshine and a cool breeze were the perfect accompaniments to our first day. The hotel that was booked for us in Povoa was similar to the one in Porto: our twin beds were side by side in a very tiny room!Read more

    • Day 3

      Tag 2: der Soldat mit der Bibel

      September 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Heute morgen waren wir nicht gerade in Bestform. 😅
      Jan hatte überall Muskelkater und mehrere Blasen die ihn plagten und mir war irgendwie übel.
      Doch nach einem Weilchen an der frischen Luft, einem tollen Frühstück und ein paar guten Gesprächen ging es uns wieder gut und wir waren wieder motiviert und bereit loszuziehen.
      Da wir gestern so spät angekommen waren, hatten wir keine Zeit mehr Vila do Conde richtig anzuschauen. Das holten wir heute morgen nach und probierten dabei noch eine kleine Flasche des typischen Bieres hier "Super Bock". 😂 Das hat uns auch noch mehr Kraft gegeben.
      Dann waren wir auch schon wieder an der Küste und liefen weiter nach Norden. Es war wie auch schon gestern ein unglaubliches Naturschauspiel den Wellen dabei zuzusehen, wie sie an an die Felsen prallen und dann meterhoch in den Himmel schossen.
      Auf dem Weg holte uns Ralf ein, ein junger Soldat, der mit Jan auf einem Zimmer war. (Ja, die Zimmer waren in dem letzten Hostel nach Geschlechtern getrennt 😆). Es war sehr interessant sich mit ihm zu unterhalten, er erzählte von seinen Motiven für die Pilgerreise, aber auch wieso er zur Bundeswehr gegangen sei und was er dort erlebt hatte. Er war sehr sympathisch und es war schwer zu glauben, dass er noch so jung ist. Er interessiert sich sehr für Psychologie und empfahl uns direkt ein paar Bücher, die er gelesen hatte und schon gut fand.
      In einer Snack- und Eincrem-Pause bemerken wir, dass er ein großes Buch in seinem Rucksack hatte. Es war ein riesiges Exemplar der Bibel. Er erzählte uns auch von seinen religiösen Motiven und hat uns mit seiner Art sehr beeindruckt.
      Wir liefen noch ein paar Stündchen zusammen weiter und trennten uns dann, als Jan und ich eine gute Stelle fanden um endlich im Meer schwimmen zu gehen! 😍 Ralf wollte heute noch zwei Orte weiter als wir bis zur Herberge laufen und ging daher wieder los.
      Es war absolut herrlich, wir haben eine wellenarme Stelle gefunden, wo sich das Wasser noch besser aufwärmen konnte und es war einfach so angenehm. 🥰
      Lange lagen wir aber nicht herum, die Füße wollten weiterlaufen. 😂
      Und so ging es dann weiter, jetzt auch mal weg von der Küste durch Naturschutzparks und kleine Dörfchen. Leider meldeten sich auch jetzt wieder die Füße... und es war auch leider wieder schlimm. 😂 Obwohl wir uns heute ca 10km weniger als gestern vorgenommen haben, taten uns die Füße schon echt früh weh. Ich vermute, dass das an dem Steinboden liegt über den wir bisher 90% der Zeit laufen mussten. Ich kann mich wirklich nicht an so etwas erinnern und kann mir nur diesen Grund vorstellen.
      Trotz der schönen Landschaft fingen die letzten Kilometer an sich hinzuziehen, sodass wir uns Fado Musik und dann später noch ein Hörbuch zum Ablenken von den Schmerzen anmachen mussten. 😂
      Endlich kamen wir dann um 20 Uhr beim "Spot Hostel" in Fão an. Es war eine private Pension wo man zusammen mit den Gastgebern wohnt. Mein Gott, waren das herzliche Menschen!! Man hatte wirklich das Gefühl man übernachtet bei Freunden. 😄 Sie hatte mich sogar schon angerufen, weil sie sich Sorgen gemacht hatte! Direkt begrüßte uns auch Spot, der kleine Hund der dort auch mitwohnte und der Namensgeber des Hostels war.
      Es war so ein schönes Hostel!! Überhaupt habe ich das Gefühl, dass wir nur in Luxusunterkünfte geraten, diese hatte sogar einen Pool! 😂
      Zum Wäschewaschen waren wir zu kaputt und da wir noch was essen mussten sind wir in eine Tapasbar um die Ecke gegangen. Leider habe ich dort dem Fehler begangen den Tapas "Gambas nach Hausart" zu bestellen. Das Resultat dessen wird uns wahrscheinlich noch jahrelang verfolgen. 😂 Es war einfach schrecklich: 6 riesige Gambas/ Garnelen die einen mit ihren Augen traurig angeschaut haben. Jan und ich konnten uns kaum überwinden sie anzuschauen, geschweige denn diese zu essen. Natürlich haben wir beide auch promt vergessen wie man die überhaupt essen soll, sodass sich bei meinem ersten zaghaften Schnitt in der Nähe des Kopfes jede Menge schwarzer Flüssigkeit ergoss. Mach ein wenig Recherche kamen wir zu dem Schluss, dass das wohl der Darm war. 🤢🤮 Es war so grausam und ekelhaft, dass dann auch die Stimmung bei uns etwas geknickt war. Ich glaube wir waren einfach von den Gambas traumatisiert und bereuten jeden Bissen. Immerhin war aber der Sangria gut! 😉

      Orte: Vila do Conde, Póvoa de Varzim, Estela, Apulia, Fão
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    Fão, Fao

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