Portugal
Fão

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    • Day 5

      Beach to Forest

      April 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      This morning we were up early and headed out for more adventures. We hiked along the ocean a bit as we left Esposende and then traded the boardwalks for winding our way through sleepy villages on quiet country lanes. The roosters crowed us along and we were visited by several cats and dogs as we made our way north. It was so encouraging to see the many Bom Camino signs that we passed. We are still very careful to spot the yellow arrows that point us in the right way because none of us want to risk getting off track 😂. The recent rains turning to bright sunshine this week and the fact that it’s springtime here has so many beautiful flowers blooming in the small yards- bird of paradise, roses, rhododendrons, irises, wisteria and flowering fruit trees are intoxicatingly fragrant as we walk by but they are rivaled by the riotous display of wildflowers too! We passed wild daisies, ferns of every shape, calla lillies, poppies and sweet clover and they are busting from rock walls and in fields. This afternoon we even saw foxglove blooming in pastures and grapevines blooming with tiny baby grape buds- a real treat! Portugal is especially beautiful now. Angèle had a close encounter with a green snake that poked his head out from the vines so that they were face to face- I almost lost my mind! But she was brave and we kept going. We visited so many churches today- those dedicated to Michael the Archangel, S. Joâo de Monte, Senhora de Miséricordia, S. Sebastio and a very special one, Igreja Santiago de Castelo de Nieva which holds an inscription of dedication of the original church to San Tiago dating from the year 862- it’s the oldest consecration to the Apostle from outside of Spain! We spent most of the afternoon hiking through forest land over rocks and branches and through some mud. It was so hot today as we marched along our 18 miles (!) and we were about to stop and take a rest when we came upon a little donativo cantina in the woods run by a very friendly Portuguese man who sang to us as we accepted his generosity and had some melons and fruit, icy drinks and even a little port wine- yes please and obrigato! Thankyou! We kept going then and passed over the river Lima as we entered Viana do Castelo walking across a metal bridge done by the Eiffel school. We enjoyed a light supper at a bar that had a DJ playing traditional Portuguese Fado music and then had an Uber take us up the mountain to our albergue Santa Luiza- it was 600 steps up some treacherous stairs and we felt it wise to stay safe. I did the stairs last year with Richard and once was enough for me! The Sanctuário de Santa Luzia (also known as Templo do Sagrado Coraçáo de Jesus) is atop of the mountain and an imposing sight! We needed to check in so we’ll visit the Sanctuary in the morning- for now it’s laundry and sleep! We’re in an 8 person dorm room and my 3 sisters are all on top bunks- reminiscent of our childhood days! Tomorrow is our last day in Portugal for awhile and it will be another long day so we’ll get our rest and be ready to hoist up backpacks and leave early.Read more

    • Day 5

      We Keep Walking!

      October 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

      We moved away from the coast today and entered a more rural landscape, walking on cobblestones and dirt paths. The continued rains here have made a muddy mess but at least in the villages, forests and vineyards, while it was chilly, we weren’t battling that stiff north wind. It did rain a lot today but there were also sunny times and a rainbow! The forests were lush and beautiful but some of the ways we went down the mountain would definitely not be approved by my orthopaedic surgeon! We crossed over the river Nieva on a sketchy looking concrete block bridge and I held my breath the whole time! Ultimately we clocked 19.75 miles, 48,515 steps and 58 flights of stairs today- a record for me and I feel it tonight!
      Passing through the villages we visited so many churches and chapels. There is understandably a particular devotion here to Our Lady of Fatima and almost every church has some type of remembrance. At Castelo de Nieva we saw the first church in Portugal ever consecrated to S. James- it dated back to 862 AD. In Viana do Castelo we walked over an iron bridge called the Ponté Eiffel to cross the river Lima- it was done by the Eiffel school and was pretty cool! Before we climbed the 600 feet up to our alburgue (rooming house) we stopped for a Pilgrim meal, a set menu including wine at a cheap price. Delicious! We are staying at the Alburgue San Luzia which is connected to the Sé (cathedral) - the reward of having the most amazing view of the city was worth the effort of the 600 meter climb- there are many sweet pilgrims also now staying here who we now consider our friends- now off to sleep- more adventures tomorrow! Fingers crossed the rain stops!!
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    • Day 5

      Friday night- Saturday

      October 7, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      I’ve adopted “Narrow Road” by Josh Baldwin as my theme song for this walk. Take a listen!
      Friday night- Made it to Esposende. It is a really nice resort town. The Main Street is all waterfront and park. Staying in a hotel that I at first thought was really nice. Now I think it is really nice- in an Overlook Hotel kind of way. It has lots of character as old hotels do- but there is definitely a creepy element here.
      I took kind of a circuitous route to get here. There are actually 2 different coastal Caminos. The one I thought I was on was the traditional one, but sometime today I noticed that I was no longer on that one. There was a pilgrim from Norway- Vidar. He and I had been taking turns passing each other and had stopped at the same place for lunch. Anyhoo- he saw me looking confused and told me I was on the Senda Litoral, but I should just stay on that cuz it’s the better one anyhow. Turns out Vidar had already done the Portuguese Camino both there and back. Did the traditional coastal and came back the Litoral- so he knows from whence he speaks. (He has also done the French route. Kind of an over achiever if you ask me). So I stayed on the Litoral but then started to wonder if that was gonna end up being longer so decided to cut over to catch the traditional. But that looked really far so I just consulted Google maps and went where they told me. And it ended up being a really pretty walk even though I was on it all by my lonesome.
      Met a couple of angels today, both named Maria. Neither spoke a word of English but we ended up being able to pantomime our way through. The first 2 pictures are of one of the Marias and Vidar.

      It’s Saturday and I’m about 1/2 way through the day’s walk. I started on the coast but the boardwalk had given way to sand, (no me gusta), plus it’s a hot day and no shade on the litoral. So I switched over to the coastal. So glad I switched. It’s been a beautiful walk, through some towns, some woods…. Right now I’m sitting under a tree in the courtyard of a beautiful church. Seems to be a popular pilgrim resting place. But the route has become quite hilly.
      Ya know- people are generally very kind. I stopped at a little cafe to have a cold sparkling water. The owner brought out a jar of biscuits, honey, jam and a little bowl of peanuts in the shell-(and I had just been thinking yesterday about how much I miss peanuts. It’s true what they say- the Camino does provide!). He filled up my water bottle and stamped my pilgrim passport without my even asking. I have met a couple of girls from Miami, a very nice woman (Silva) from the Czech Republic - she was traveling with a friend but the friend had gone ahead. Then another woman from the Czech Republic, Katerina, who was doing her 1st Camino and was on her own. Her son was an exchange student in Kansas last year.
      I am feeling that things I have been thinking about, reading, and listening to are beginning to synchronize.

      On the playlist today- Simon and Garfunkel. Best lyric- “I get all the news I need from the weather report”. (Only Livin’ Boy in New York).
      The church bells just rang and there appears to be some kind of mass. Time to get movin again!

      The pictures of people I meet I am including for me to remember. But there are some more scenic pictures too!

      So I was gonna end this when I left the church but then a mile down the path was this little canopy area and a guy, Albero, who had a whole little supply hut with fresh fruit, chips, beer, sparkling water- even a little espresso maker. He only asks for donations. So awesome!
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    • Day 6

      4.Etappe Fao-Viana do Castelo

      May 11 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Es geht wieder los :-) ! Heute ist es noch bedeckt und angenehm kühl . Unser Bett hat die ganze Zeit gequietscht 😂🤭. Die erste längere Etappe für uns … sehr einsam heute am Meer entlang zu gehen. Frühstück nach 6,4 km 😂🙈. Wir hatten auch echt HungerRead more

    • Day 2

      Tag 2 - Vila do Conde - Fão (22km)

      May 12 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Nochdem i gester so ziemli alles falsch gmacht ha am 1.Tag (zviel gloffe, zwenig trunke&gesse, nöd ihcremt etc.), isch hüt an erfolgriche Tag gsi.

      Bi gester Obed no go froge wegere Decki zum schlofe. Die Dame ah da Rezeption het dänn aber gmeint, wenni da Überzug übercho ha, dänn hani alles 😪 Ih als sehr emotionale Mensch&völlig übermüedet sind mer dänn gad Träne ko (hahah peinlich). Reaktion vo ihre hani dänn nöd erwartet: "isch da din erste Camino? Riss di zäma, hör uf brölle und morn Morge laufsch du miteme riese Grins do use" - ok, die Antwort hani glob genau brucht! 😅 (ha übrigens dänn doch no ah Decki übercho, hend nur ah Sprochbarriere ka 😝)

      Am nögste Morge bini am 7ni losgloffe. zerst no völlig Lost, ha da Camino nochere Stund dänn aber doch no gfunde (immerhin i die richtig Richtig gloffe) 😉 Die erste 2h wieder alles da Küste entlang, recht eitönig mit da Zit 😬 Ziemli windig isches au direkt am Meer. Bi dänn drum froh gsi isch da weg nocher dur da Wald..
      Zum zmittag hets es Pilgermenü geh (günstig & riesigi Portione) und notürlich endlich mis wohlverdiente BIER 😍 Unterkunft hani dasmol vorreserviert (Hostel mit Pool). Mue das schöne Wetter no usnütze, wenns ab morn go Regne kunnt 😬

      Eigentlich hani dä Blog welle kurzhalte, isch nix druss wore
      , egal😅

      No ah paar Erkentnis zude Länder-Stereotype wo wiedermol zuetreffid:
      - Die Dütsche wo gern über Geld redet, wa d'Unterkunft kostet, wa s'esse kostet - WHO cares!
      - Franzose wo sich da Landessproch nöd düend ahpasse, mit Bonjour anstatt Bom dia grüessed
      - Amis wo der am liabsta alles verzelled

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    • Day 5

      After Coffee Day3

      September 3, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Really starting to get annoyed with this app lost the footage before I stopped for coffee . I've tried to give you a sense of a lovely morning ...just as I was about to post this I was joined in my room by the landlady and two German Fraus of around 50-60 the look on their faces when they saw me in the room probably showed as much surprise as I felt. A small room with no curtains on the beds and shared bathroom will be an interesting night developing a protocolRead more

    • Day 6

      Where the Fao Are We?: Apulia - Marinhas

      May 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Brigit and I got a wee bit lost on our last day together. I blame Pavlov.

      The two of us exited the bed and breakfast we had coincidentally both booked for May 4, and right around the corner was the boardwalk we had come to love these last 20 or so miles. We hit the wood.

      This was despite both of our guidebooks recommending we turn inland for the shorter path to the town of Fao “through a brief stretch of heavy woodland.” But we were on the coastal and there were boards. We knew boards. We had seen a lot of them, and they had never led us astray. We became increasingly doubtful, however, when we didn’t see any of the metal or ceramic markers that assure a pilgrim they are on their way. We saw a few painted yellow lines with painted red lines below them, which was concerning.

      So we asked folks. No less than 3 assured us we were good. One expounded the benefits a seaside vs inland walking. The others all nodded encouragingly and shooed us on our way. We eventually left the sea and walked through some woods, along a very busy road. So…maybe.

      Then, in a nondescript seaside town, we came across the universal sign for ‘you blew it’ - a yellow arrow crossed out with a red, diagonal stripe. Portuguese translation -‘ Este nao e o Camino.’ So finally, like the confident women we are, we stopped to ask for directions. Two women nearby were walking home with market bags. We begged their help. While one stopped to drag us to a cafe to find someone with ‘some English’ the other hustled off down the sidewalk. Smart girl.

      There wasn’t much English to be had at the Ilha Restaurante, but there was a toilet. So - Winning! They also stamped our Camino passports with the restaurant name and address. We sought directions from the proud owner of the cafe, a passerby, and a young woman smoking a cigarette on the patio to the next town, Fao. They were confused.

      We enunciated heavily, spoke louder, and poked at the maps on our screens. “Fao! We want to get to Fao! How go Fao?”

      More confusion.

      Finally,I said, “ bridge,” and the proprietor got it. He offered the directions we sought in a universal language: We needed to go straight-hand-moving-down-the-sidewalk-wiggle-it-right-wiggle-it-left- humpty-hump-the-bridge.

      Ahhhhhhh. Thanks! (Really. How did these people not know where the town of Fao was?)

      Brigit and I finally crossed the bridge into Marinhas. By this time my Spidey senses, ignored since we hit the boardwalk, we’re really tingling. “Hey Brigit. I’m wondering if maybe…”

      Later I checked my pilgrims passport. The address of Ilha Restaurant, where three locals tried almost in vain to help two very confused peregrinas was stamped in crisp black ink:

      Av. Antonio Veigo N 80….

      Fao.
      Read more

    • Day 4

      Porto to Povoa

      April 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      We’re on the Camino for real! After breakfast we taxied to the beach north of Porto — and started walking at the Praia da Memoria obelisk. Most of the 13 miles to our destination in Povoa de Varzim were along a beach boardwalk, sometimes past sand dunes, always surrounded by wildflowers, and lots of bamboo stands. We walked thru a couple of small fishing villages, then thru a large urban area at the end. There were dozens of other pilgrims along the way, a handful of bicyclists, and many locals enjoying the boardwalk as well. At lunchtime we chatted with a young couple from Ireland at an outdoor cafe — she had recently walked a pilgrimage in Japan. Sunshine and a cool breeze were the perfect accompaniments to our first day. The hotel that was booked for us in Povoa was similar to the one in Porto: our twin beds were side by side in a very tiny room!Read more

    • Day 5

      Povoa to Beach Resort Hotel, Esposende

      April 25 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      Today was Dia da Liberdade, and the 50th anniversary of the Portuguese revolution. It was another short(ish) day of walking — 13 miles, only 6 hours with breaks. Beach boardwalk, then inland boardwalk, some towns, a golf course, a quiet wooded stretch on a dirt road. Kathleen took lots of flower photos — spring is a great time to be here! We’ve been seeing the same people at break stops and on the trail, and everyone wishes each other Bon (or Buen) Camino! Our hotel upgraded us to a Jr Suite — and the twin beds were all of 18” apart, not smushed together like at the other hotels. Kathleen, of course, did her traditional headstand on the beach, and we had a great sunset view at dinner.Read more

    • Day 4

      Hitting My Stride

      April 11 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Starting to learn how to become “one with the pack”. We most spent the day walking along the beach on boardwalks and sand. So grateful my sister Renee is here to share her experience and provide coaching. We turned inland for a bit and got a change of scenery as we passed soccer fields and a golf course next to the ocean. Definitely feel fatigued by the end of the day, but keep walking forward. Luckily, I won the sister room lottery and got to sleep in the private room.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Fão, Fao

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