Portugal
Gandra

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    • Dag 14

      Fao to Esposende

      25 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Leaving Fao, I crossed a bridge which led to Esposende. Some through town and some along the river. They have a great bike path along the water. The walking trail is unfortunately cobblestone. There was a lot of that today. Just before leaving town, I stopped at a café. In the washroom there was a fireplace! It is near the ocean, but is a fireplace necessary in the toilet?Meer informatie

    • Dag 11

      Day 3 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      14 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Day 3 on the Camino and the skies continue to be blue and the temperature warm. The same is forecasted for at least the next 10 days. This area has had so much rain previously that we were very nervous for our planned time here but we have been very lucky weather wise, so far.

      Today being Sunday, there were loads of families out walking and enjoying the beaches. We left later than we normally like because I (Peg) couldn’t pass up the free breakfast, that came with our room last night, but it wasn’t served until 8am. We arrived at our Albergue about 3:00 with many stops along the way to refuel our bodies and rest our weary bones. Tomorrow we have further distance to cover so will definitely be leaving earlier.

      As they say in Portugal, Bom Caminha!
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 3

      Tag 2: der Soldat mit der Bibel

      7 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Heute morgen waren wir nicht gerade in Bestform. 😅
      Jan hatte überall Muskelkater und mehrere Blasen die ihn plagten und mir war irgendwie übel.
      Doch nach einem Weilchen an der frischen Luft, einem tollen Frühstück und ein paar guten Gesprächen ging es uns wieder gut und wir waren wieder motiviert und bereit loszuziehen.
      Da wir gestern so spät angekommen waren, hatten wir keine Zeit mehr Vila do Conde richtig anzuschauen. Das holten wir heute morgen nach und probierten dabei noch eine kleine Flasche des typischen Bieres hier "Super Bock". 😂 Das hat uns auch noch mehr Kraft gegeben.
      Dann waren wir auch schon wieder an der Küste und liefen weiter nach Norden. Es war wie auch schon gestern ein unglaubliches Naturschauspiel den Wellen dabei zuzusehen, wie sie an an die Felsen prallen und dann meterhoch in den Himmel schossen.
      Auf dem Weg holte uns Ralf ein, ein junger Soldat, der mit Jan auf einem Zimmer war. (Ja, die Zimmer waren in dem letzten Hostel nach Geschlechtern getrennt 😆). Es war sehr interessant sich mit ihm zu unterhalten, er erzählte von seinen Motiven für die Pilgerreise, aber auch wieso er zur Bundeswehr gegangen sei und was er dort erlebt hatte. Er war sehr sympathisch und es war schwer zu glauben, dass er noch so jung ist. Er interessiert sich sehr für Psychologie und empfahl uns direkt ein paar Bücher, die er gelesen hatte und schon gut fand.
      In einer Snack- und Eincrem-Pause bemerken wir, dass er ein großes Buch in seinem Rucksack hatte. Es war ein riesiges Exemplar der Bibel. Er erzählte uns auch von seinen religiösen Motiven und hat uns mit seiner Art sehr beeindruckt.
      Wir liefen noch ein paar Stündchen zusammen weiter und trennten uns dann, als Jan und ich eine gute Stelle fanden um endlich im Meer schwimmen zu gehen! 😍 Ralf wollte heute noch zwei Orte weiter als wir bis zur Herberge laufen und ging daher wieder los.
      Es war absolut herrlich, wir haben eine wellenarme Stelle gefunden, wo sich das Wasser noch besser aufwärmen konnte und es war einfach so angenehm. 🥰
      Lange lagen wir aber nicht herum, die Füße wollten weiterlaufen. 😂
      Und so ging es dann weiter, jetzt auch mal weg von der Küste durch Naturschutzparks und kleine Dörfchen. Leider meldeten sich auch jetzt wieder die Füße... und es war auch leider wieder schlimm. 😂 Obwohl wir uns heute ca 10km weniger als gestern vorgenommen haben, taten uns die Füße schon echt früh weh. Ich vermute, dass das an dem Steinboden liegt über den wir bisher 90% der Zeit laufen mussten. Ich kann mich wirklich nicht an so etwas erinnern und kann mir nur diesen Grund vorstellen.
      Trotz der schönen Landschaft fingen die letzten Kilometer an sich hinzuziehen, sodass wir uns Fado Musik und dann später noch ein Hörbuch zum Ablenken von den Schmerzen anmachen mussten. 😂
      Endlich kamen wir dann um 20 Uhr beim "Spot Hostel" in Fão an. Es war eine private Pension wo man zusammen mit den Gastgebern wohnt. Mein Gott, waren das herzliche Menschen!! Man hatte wirklich das Gefühl man übernachtet bei Freunden. 😄 Sie hatte mich sogar schon angerufen, weil sie sich Sorgen gemacht hatte! Direkt begrüßte uns auch Spot, der kleine Hund der dort auch mitwohnte und der Namensgeber des Hostels war.
      Es war so ein schönes Hostel!! Überhaupt habe ich das Gefühl, dass wir nur in Luxusunterkünfte geraten, diese hatte sogar einen Pool! 😂
      Zum Wäschewaschen waren wir zu kaputt und da wir noch was essen mussten sind wir in eine Tapasbar um die Ecke gegangen. Leider habe ich dort dem Fehler begangen den Tapas "Gambas nach Hausart" zu bestellen. Das Resultat dessen wird uns wahrscheinlich noch jahrelang verfolgen. 😂 Es war einfach schrecklich: 6 riesige Gambas/ Garnelen die einen mit ihren Augen traurig angeschaut haben. Jan und ich konnten uns kaum überwinden sie anzuschauen, geschweige denn diese zu essen. Natürlich haben wir beide auch promt vergessen wie man die überhaupt essen soll, sodass sich bei meinem ersten zaghaften Schnitt in der Nähe des Kopfes jede Menge schwarzer Flüssigkeit ergoss. Mach ein wenig Recherche kamen wir zu dem Schluss, dass das wohl der Darm war. 🤢🤮 Es war so grausam und ekelhaft, dass dann auch die Stimmung bei uns etwas geknickt war. Ich glaube wir waren einfach von den Gambas traumatisiert und bereuten jeden Bissen. Immerhin war aber der Sangria gut! 😉

      Orte: Vila do Conde, Póvoa de Varzim, Estela, Apulia, Fão
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 4

      Day 3 Agucadoura to Esposende

      10 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another short day, 11km. My pack is getting lighter…probably because I’m losing my gear 😂 Adapter in Porto and sleep liner and ear plugs in Vila do Conde. I was able to replace the adapter at the “Chinese store” for 8€.
      Todays walk was a mix of boardwalk, cobblestones and forest. It was nice to have the shade. Arrived in Esposende early, had lunch and wandered around town.
      Yesterday on my walk a lady on the street gave me a scallop shell charm…Bom Caminho! So sweet. Today I was able to get a leather necklace for it
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 5

      Day 4 - Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende

      26 april, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Woke at 3am and couldn’t get back to sleep, so finally gave up and hit the road just before 6am. Slight panic that the blister I have would hinder the journey, but after a while I didn’t even feel it.
      Lots of coffee stops to break up the walk, and quite a few cats. If I could, I would take them all home and look after them 😕
      Back to hostel living tonight, but have just the one roommate - Rita from London. Other walkers have been slightly standoffish but that’s ok - we’re all just doing our own thing, afterall. The locals on the other hand have been delightful and those little interactions have brought a smile to my face. From the man who came out of the cemetery to try and give me a walking pole someone had left behind - not a dead person, but a girl who’d just walked past and left it at the cemetery gate - to the cyclist who told me “de santo não tem nada!” when I said “santinha!” to his friend, to everyone who says “bom dia”, people have been friendly and welcoming.
      Also, food, glorious food! Had bacalhao a bras followed by arroz doce for lunch, and promptly fell into a food coma when I checked in 🤣
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 5

      Day 4 Esposende to Anha

      11 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Part 1 Left the Albergue before sunrise, 7:00am. Today was a 20km day over a mountain!! Literally, 140m elevation through cobblestone streets, and forest paths. It was tough, but so worth it. So much beauty and history.Meer informatie

    • Dag 23

      Day 20/9 Vila do Conde to Esposende

      23 mei 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      With another big walk ahead of us, we hit the road at 7:00 this morning under overcast skies and 17 degrees with a forecast of rain from 8:00 to 11:00.

      The first few kilometers of the day ran through residential neighborhoods with little excitement except for a trio of ducks waddling down the sidewalk. But, before we knew it, we were strolling oceanside along the longest boardwalk I've ever seen.

      We had planned to stop for coffee at A Ver-O-Mar, but found nothing open this Monday morning. We pushed on to the next town, Aguçadoura, located at the 10.9 km mark, and still had no luck until Brenda found a "top-rated" pastry shop 8 minutes off the Caminho trail. And that's where things got interesting.

      Yesterday, during dinner, one of Brenda's dental crowns disintegrated. We called our travel insurance provider who confirmed this was not covered by our plan, but gave us the name of a dentist in Esposende. While at the cafe in Aguçadoura, I managed to reach the dentist and, with my one month's Duolingo Portuguese training, succeeded in communicating Brenda's need for an emergency appointment that afternoon. And then the receptionist responded and totally lost me. Brenda turned to the couple seated at the table next to us and asked if they spoke English and they kindly offered to assist us. As it turned out, the woman is from Agaçadoura, but has been living in Toronto with her husband for the last eighteen years! Unfortunately, the dental office had no appointments available, but we were once again treated to the unbelievable kindness of the Portuguese people. On top of that, the pastries were outstanding.

      That little detour and chat with fellow Canadians put us far behind Anita and Ernie, but we caught up with them in Apulia at the 17.6 km mark. While we were chasing them down, the skies opened and we had our first real exposure to rain since I arrived. We walked for about ninety minutes in the rain, which was quite heavy at times. I'm pleased to report that my quick-drying clothing worked extremely well and was not even damp when we started back on the trail for the final 7 kms to Esposende.

      As luck would have it, Brenda managed to book a 4:00 dentist appointment and had a temporary crown installed on her exposed tooth.

      Tomorrow is another long day: 26.4 kms to Viana do Castelo as we get closer and closer to the Spanish border.

      They say that The Caminho will always take care of you and, with all our good fortune today, the proof was in the pudding.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 23

      Day 18 - to Esposende

      13 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

      This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

      Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

      For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

      We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 24

      Day 21/10 Esposende to Viana do Castelo

      24 mei 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Our walk today started under cloudy skies with a slight wind and a cool 12 degrees. A fairly long 27 km journey was on the agenda along the Caminho's coastal route. Despite the coastal monicker, most of today's travels were on inland trails, with a couple of fairly long, steep stretches over difficult terrain. Other parts were through beautiful forested areas alongside a rapidly moving stream. The final couple kilometers were over a heavily trafficked bridge, high over the river where we were buffeted by extremely high winds. We all breathed a sigh of relief when we reached the north shore.

      Brenda and I stopped for coffee at the 9.15 km mark in Belinho where we rejoined Ernita (our new name for Ernie and Anita) who had taken a route that more closely followed the coast. We didn't stop again until Chafe, 19 kms into our walk. We had a very substantial lunch but were seriously overcharged for the meal we had. On the plus side, it was very delicious and filling.

      On our journey today we saw a cactus on the verge of exploding into fill bloom, a trio of crucifixes where we suspect an annual recreation may take place during the Easter season, a lemon tree laden with grapefruit-sized fruit, several lovely and/or historic churches, a shrine to the Caminho, and, at our destination, Viana do Castelo, a hilltop cathedral, a street adorned with colorful umbrellas and a statue of a monk on his ass (donkey, that is).

      We wrapped up our day with a great meal just a stones throw from our hotel.

      Tomorrow is a short 18 km walk to our next destination. Let's hope it warms up a little before we hit the road on the morning.
      Meer informatie

    • Dag 4

      Hitting My Stride

      11 april, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Starting to learn how to become “one with the pack”. We most spent the day walking along the beach on boardwalks and sand. So grateful my sister Renee is here to share her experience and provide coaching. We turned inland for a bit and got a change of scenery as we passed soccer fields and a golf course next to the ocean. Definitely feel fatigued by the end of the day, but keep walking forward. Luckily, I won the sister room lottery and got to sleep in the private room.Meer informatie

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